more on obscurity

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lucho

Trad climber

San Francisco

Dec 9, 2005 - 05:42pm PT

Ablegabel, I was attempting a new free route on Liberty Cap, on rappell the second day up there we dislodged some rocks after one of our ropes got caught and pulled harder to free it. Doh! One of the stones fell on my clavicle breaking it.

coiler

Trad climber

yosemite

Dec 10, 2005 - 12:18pm PT

Yes, the summit register on "Andy's inferno" is still there. I found it waiting for 120 to open last winter, searching for new routes. Grant Hiskes and I ended upputting up a new route to the left of the "Inferno" called "Blow sunshine up your a*#" 5.8+. Sandbagged in the tradition of the "inferno".

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2005 - 12:33pm PT

coiler - ablegable had me up there earlier (the initial thread post) but we didn't have enough inspiration to go up your new route... though it looked especially nice once we negotiated the approach (which I think is the crux of those routes).

Jaybro

Social climber

The West

Dec 10, 2005 - 03:28pm PT

So, then, is Realm of the Lizrd King 02+ ?

I only know of three ascents, but it's been a while.

TT hadn't done it, last I looked.

I Love obscurities.

WBraun

climber

Dec 10, 2005 - 04:25pm PT

Jaybro

I lead the Realm of the Lizard King on second ascent. What is it rated?

I straight jammed it.

What is 02+ mean?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2007 - 01:36am PT

on Andy's Inferno (see above for Roper's description)...

Ken should go up and get the register, it's falling apart and some of the pages are lost (alas, most of the cartoon that Sheridan Anderson drew on the first ascent entry is gone) but there is still good history there... and it won't be much longer as the paper is dried and brittle and probably acid based.

But just as a tease (I've got to get to bed for climbing tomorrow), here is an entry concerning our own scuffy b, beaming in from the wayback machine... I'll post more later...

Jay Wood

Trad climber

Fairfax, CA

Oct 27, 2007 - 03:01am PT

Curtis Creek Manifesto- In the top five best how-to books IMO. Worth reading even if you don't fish.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Oct 27, 2007 - 11:27am PT

Most of what I do is O1-O3 these days, that's a fun scale.

'Lead the dyno on Phantom Pinnacle, but the rest of the route was so loose and lichen infested we (Dimitri Barton & me) just bailed and took a nap at the base before going all the way down.

'Been doing obscure Kor/Kor era routes out here in the CO crags. On any given day at the crags, I'm either climbing solo, roping up with a buddy, but either way, no one else anywhere in sight.

We call it the "Obscure Tour".
I learned that habit from Al Bartlett.

Doug Robinson

Trad climber

Santa Cruz

Oct 27, 2007 - 12:33pm PT

I did the FA of Andy's Inferno with Sheridan. Keep wanting to go back and see what we did (sieve memory -- I think it kinda coils right, around the corner -- don't recall difficulty). Sheridan was definitely the impetus, found the climb. Delighted in obscurities. Perhaps he is their patron saint?

Someday when I get brave enough to relearn the scanner I'll post up a Sheridan thread. Have a bunch of his art that arrived on envelopes.

The Curtis Creek Manifesto has been called the best text on fly fishing. Without a pole, I've made pilgrimage. Have a box of flies tied by the master.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Oct 27, 2007 - 12:43pm PT

We look forward to a Sheridan thread DR!

Doug Robinson

Trad climber

Santa Cruz

Oct 27, 2007 - 01:12pm PT

Monday I hung a TR on Chingando, a scant hundred yards from Andy's Inferno, while giving a crack climbing seminar at the AMGA annual meeting in Yosemite. (Lotta non-granite guides like a little no-intimidation intro to the Valley, so I set TRs on Reeds etc.)

Some of them got to wearing a 5.Tennie on the right foot for heel-toe and a smearing shoe on the left. That led me to recall a story of my FA in the Winds soon after Andy's Inferno. I named it in honor of Sheridan's drunken campfire suggestion for Obscure Route Beta: "This climb requires an extra left klettershoe." It's a proud OW, of course, running 4"-6" up the crux dihedral, 5 pitches up the East Face of Sundance Pinnacle, dubbed Andy's Only Extra Left Klettershoe Chimney.

This fine line, visible to everyone toiling up Big Sandy Pass toward the Cirque, was immediately set on the road to Obscurity by Orrin Bonney, idiot author of the then-guidebook, by his shortening it to "Klettershoe Chimney." Joe Kelsey's guide, otherwise so eloquent, drove the stake into its obscure heart by shifting it again to "East Face, Right." At least he boosted my 5.8 rating to 5.9.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2007 - 01:23am PT

DR here you are

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2007 - 01:30am PT

and the second ascent by Sheridan Anderson and Loyd Price

the note says:

"Sheridan Anderson V.Y.S.
Loyd Stubby Price

5 September 1965

(In the year of the Chipmunk 8047)

Second ascent by two innocent and unskillful climbers of the Vulgarian Youth Section conned into it by the leader of the first ascent who walked up the descent route kibitzing and subsequently was carried off the summit unconscious. He passed out from laughing when a jammed nut would not disjamb on the last pitch - "

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2007 - 01:34am PT

Molly Higgins and Barb Eastman, 1st all female ascent

Jaybro

Social climber

The West

Oct 29, 2007 - 01:34am PT

i had to read the whole thread to remember what 02+ meant; nobody hardly has done it, three ascents that I know of, and Tucker never climbed it, I think.