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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Apr 20, 2015 - 10:11am PT
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I've heard of two different routes from separate sources that much of the rock is chossy.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 20, 2015 - 11:01am PT
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No inside info here, Dave, just what I've found on the interweb. Even from a distance it looks like the rock is featured but maybe not the most solid
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Apr 20, 2015 - 12:17pm PT
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Check the Secor guide.
I know friends who've done it, said it was worthy.
I put up a few routes on Jackass Dike (formation just downstream of Florence Lake dam) in the late 90s. Mixed bolts & natural pro, up to 2 pitches. Lots more potential on that formation
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Apr 20, 2015 - 12:56pm PT
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Anyone else have beta on routes up Bear or Infant?
Sarah and I started up the main weakness on the left side of the West face and got turned around by rotten rock. The rock around the center of the West face was good (Bear Edge route), but you had to do a little maneuvering to avoid the occasional rotten crack system (i.e. a little runout but easy chickenhead patina climbing). South shoulder route was good rock. Do the Bear Edge and check the summit register for more recent new route beta.
We climbed at the infant buttes for a day, but I've no idea what we did or what was done. Mostly 5 easy to 5.9 on nice rock, we saw no bolts and left no bolts. Stunning location and no one around.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Apr 20, 2015 - 02:16pm PT
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Tks for the replies. What was the best approach? From google earth it appears to be the from near the diversion dam SE of Infant. On google earth it still shows under construction but probably done by now. Looks worth the effort.
Reeotch, is that the formation on the north side of the river/creek coming out of Florence. It looks like about 400' of good rock. Any route info you can PM?
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Apr 20, 2015 - 08:49pm PT
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Cut over from Bear Diversion Dam rd. 4wd means less hiking. We had a van and got part way up the road. Hiking was easy on low growing shrubs, but it looks like those burned up from some photos posted earlier, so approach should be even easier.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Apr 20, 2015 - 09:02pm PT
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Davey, is this the rock below Florence that your talking about?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 20, 2015 - 09:22pm PT
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I wonder how many climbers have taken pictures of that thing. It looks like that kind of granite where all the cracks flare and bottom out so you start up with confidence and then get really scared really quick!
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Apr 21, 2015 - 05:48am PT
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I climbed a couple routes on that rock with my soon to be wife in the 1980's. My memory is one of them had one really nice crack pitch and both had lots of moss and lots of loose rock. I think the rock on the other side of the creek (the actual Jackass Dike formation) seems better.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 19, 2016 - 02:13pm PT
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How is it that Vitaliy has not already put up five different routes on that by now?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Sep 19, 2016 - 05:56pm PT
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Aldude and I belive KSolem are the ones to talk to.
I've been hiking out at Edison on 3 occassions. The Vermillion Valley Resort (VVR that Hossjulia mentioned) has beer/ice/some food/and even boat rentals!
There's a 'ferry' that will take hikers across the lake to the trailhead that connects to the PCT.
There's a 'Volcanic Knob' on the far side of Edison that always caught my eye. But the Vermillion (means 'orange') Cliffs always looked like they'd have some great 1-3 pitch sport routes. The cliff-face is pretty wide too. I'll try to dig up some old pics.
Coulda swore a Bigfoot walked through our camp one night as we were camped halfway across the lake. Was checking us out, but left after scaring the living sh#t out of my dog who went to investigate.
Prolly just a bear!
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Sep 19, 2016 - 06:28pm PT
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That's the Hooper Diversion Wall in those pictures. Bear Dome is up on the side of Bear Ridge.
Tried to check it out last year, but smoke from the Rough Fire drove us out. I actually got dizzy on 4th class terrain, not a fun feeling.
There is a steeper other side to that thing hidden up a side canyon that looks like better rock, although this stuff isn't that bad.
Super bummed I never got a chance to go back without the smoke. Awesome camping too. (free)
My partner that day has a hair raising story about seeing a bigfoot in that general area while deer hunting. I'm not inclined to believe in them.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Sep 19, 2016 - 07:21pm PT
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The vermillion Cliffs are on the far side of the lake from VVR. The ferry gets you close, or just rent a boat for the weekend and camp with yer own boat!
We usually do that and camp about half-way across the lake on the Vermillion Cliff side. Usually have the place to yourself (and Bigoots). Really low water the year of this pic of mine.
Close-up of that far end section with the big gully.
This is the middle section of Vermillion Cliffs. Must have been an older pic of mine, lower res. But it shows a lot of detail of the middle section. A lot of single pitch stuff in there!!!
Once you pass the Cliffs, down the canyon towards the PCT, you look up right on the ridge and see this Volcanic Knob.
Beautiful place!
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Awesome Dome! Always looked at it so flew by this morning...Anyone want to go?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Rad picture! Haven't been out there in a while. Maybe a snowmobile trip will be in order if it ever snows again.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2017 - 07:47am PT
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Count me in, Dwight!! Send me a text!
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