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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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Mar 23, 2010 - 11:03am PT
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Do NOT use the Ushba basic ascender. I watched a friend shatter both of his heels while using one! He fell and grabbed the rope and the ushba never locked off. Zip to the ground. You can find old (4 to 5 years) post here and on RC.com about the accident...
Lots of guys in Yosemtie use the Petzel Mini Traxion for top rope
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Mar 23, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
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Been climbing w/USHBA for 15 yrs.
Has NEVER failed me.
100% on hundreds of falls.
Back up w/ knot.
SO THERE!
Very handy piece of gear.
A.
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I'm hurtin . . .
Ice climber
midwest
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Mar 25, 2010 - 02:35pm PT
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Willie!!!
Thanks for the info. I'll be giving it a try.
And Werner . . . you don't have to sugar coat it, tell us what you really think.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 25, 2010 - 02:37pm PT
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Just make sure that you put the rope where you can grab it with either hand.
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I'm hurtin . . .
Ice climber
midwest
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Mar 25, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
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Donini,
I hear what you're saying. As I contemplate the Soloist TR setup, the Petzl basic and minitrax combo I've been using for years sounds more appealing.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Mar 31, 2010 - 06:11pm PT
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Ahhhh what a bunch ah bullsh'it.
The whole Yosemite crew here has been mini-traxion almost daily during the winter months for years now with no problems.
Only people who never mini-trax dream up all these so called scenarios where they fall and the sheath and ropes cut.
Pure ass paranoia ..........
This is good to hear, Werner. I went and bought a Cinch just because the minitraxion's teeth always gave me the heebies. I probably still won't use it but I'm glad to hear this hasn't thus far been an issue.
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
Hankster's crew
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Aug 19, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
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Been using a mini traxion off the belay loop with belay master locking biner (to prevent carabiner rotation) and a shoulder strap to keep it upright. The backup is a tibloc, which is also on the belay loop but hangs down a bit lower.
A lot of folks go with two mini traxions or a mini and micro, but the tibloc backup actually has less friction and is lighter.
It seems pretty bomber but wondering if anyone can think of a problem with this setup that I'm not seeing?
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