anyone repeated Crosstown Traffic on Washington Column?

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Messages 21 - 36 of total 36 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View
Feb 28, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
Thanks Jake, enjoyed that read. Cheers:-)
tarek

climber
berkeley
Feb 28, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
Jake, thanks for posting that. Your matter-of-fact report made my hands and feet sweat. Pushing it without the security of your best fitness--scary as hell. Jump to small jug...geezus.
tarek

climber
berkeley
Feb 28, 2010 - 08:58pm PT
bump 'cause I came back and read it again.
David Wilson

climber
CA
Feb 28, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
bump again - good report jake!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 28, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
vertical psyche bump!
Buju

Trad climber
the range of light
Mar 1, 2010 - 02:09am PT
nice one jake!
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Mar 1, 2010 - 02:33am PT
Sweet read. Thanks.
Impaler

Trad climber
Munich
Mar 1, 2010 - 04:52am PT
Thanks for the write-up, Jake!
Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Mar 1, 2010 - 04:58am PT
Woot!! Thanks Jake.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 1, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
Great story, Jake - thanks for sharing!
Erik Sloan

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2010 - 03:53pm PT
Very minor comment on Jake's awesome story: Alex Huber probably didn't place the copperhead on the 4th(the Hubers show the first pitch of the Prow as two pitches, odd because of the long, hard pitches on the rest of the route) pitch, as Endangered Species, which Crosstown follows on pitch 3,4 & 9 was put up in January just 4 months before Alex did his climb. (it's possible that that 4th pitch crux had some fixed pins, which someone doing EL lowered down fifteen feet and cleaned or cleaned while bailing from there). So the second pitch hummocks that J describes Alex cleaning might have been more cleaned out, and there may have been an extra fixed piece here or there which fell out or was removed before Alex and Jake did their climb(Jake describes leaving the traverse bolt on pitch 8 clipped. when we climbed EL in '07 there was a quickdraw on that bolt, which I easily reached over and cleaned from the EL pitch).

Awesome story!
JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
Mar 2, 2010 - 07:59pm PT
So the .12a mantle pitch is part of Endangered Species? That would explain the lack of a bolt. I'm guessing Huber had a pin behind the shelf, since it looks like that on the topo, that would be real nice to have in there. Who knows though, that guy's crazy. Honnold wasn't worried enough to do anything about it. Another knifeblade right next to the other one would be awesome too, especially as the years go by.

It sounds like you cleaned a quickdraw from the first bolt of the traverse...probably where Huber's jug monkey lowered out. I left the second bolt clipped and we went down then right at .11a-ish instead of right and up at .12c.

It definitely didn't seem like anyone had free climbed up there in a long time...and its probably already re-vegetating.

It makes it scary to repeat these routes when the crucial pro is pitons etc. that aid climbers can easily booty as they go past...not really any solution though, other than taking pins and a hammer and dealing...or being less safe.

Ok aspiring hardmen, get out there and buff this thing till it's as clean as Astroman!

dickcilley

Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
Mar 3, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
What do you mean no solution.Nobody should be protecting freeclimbs with pins ,copperheads and other garbage nowadays.If it needs a bolt, it needs a bolt. Or do you want it to get all beat out.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 3, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
Pins and even heads can be good, if the route stays dry and the rock is good enough.
Part of the solution is to have updated topos available, so that the aid climbers realize the fixed pins in the crack 10' to the right are fixed pro for the free climb.

If somebody is dead set on getting booty, they could still take the pins or grab the hangers, etc.
tarek

climber
berkeley
Mar 3, 2010 - 04:10pm PT
except that, in a situation as scary as the one Jake describes, if he had encountered a new bolt with no hanger, that might have caused him enough pause to back off. But he can speak for himself.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Aug 1, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
Saw Erik put together an updated topo.

Crosstown Traffic Topo by Erik Sloan
Crosstown Traffic Topo by Erik Sloan
Credit: cultureshock

Anyone has been up on Crosstown recently...?

Bump for a great story by Jake!!

 Luke

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