Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2005 - 11:46pm PT
|
I've used the technique of lowering someone 300+ feet by using a munter hitch on a big biner and passing the EDK through the munter. It works well for modest lowers like 375 feet but I would (Edit: NEVER) think about doing it for 2400 feet.
I learned it from one of the most experienced AMGA instructors there is. You have to push and fiddle a little to get the knot through it's path. Lower a guy and then a haul bag from the top of pitch 4 of the Trip, among other places.
Peace
karl
Edit: can't believe I forgot to type NEVER)
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2005 - 12:01am PT
|
Euro death knots not allowed for rescue work. Big lowers require break bars for good control. This is the main line yesterday.
Notice the tandem prussic backup
|
|
Aura
climber
Puerto Rico
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2005 - 12:09am PT
|
Tommy and Beth did The Nose free???!!!
SICK!
|
|
estwing
Trad climber
montreal
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2005 - 11:09am PT
|
Do rescue crews have to hand drill their bolts?
|
|
AKutzer
Trad climber
From Texas to Tahoe
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2005 - 12:02pm PT
|
Cool setup - thanks for the pics, Werner.
Congrats to Tommy and Beth. Those two are just killing it!
Aaron
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2005 - 12:25pm PT
|
See above: Not writing NEVER on the 2400 lower with an EDK was a typo.
Major Congrats to Tom and Beth. Many have tried.
Peace
karl
|
|
yo
climber
NOT Fresno
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2005 - 12:42pm PT
|
What's the deal in that second pic of Pete's? Is that an 8? I see no diff. Of course, I can never tell what Petzl catalogs are talking about, with all the turtles and skulls and sh#t.
But yeah, I think an 8 loaded that way killed that guy rapping off Spaceshot a while back. The knot rolls open under a load.
EDK 4ever!
|
|
SLC Rhino
Social climber
Salt Lake City
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2005 - 12:43pm PT
|
I assume that the double fisherman's is the preferable knot for long lines.. how does the knot pass the rigging with such a load? The double prusiks must play a roll in this?
I like to use the EDK for rappelling with common size ropes understanding that at such a load (much greater than that of my body weight) the EDK is subject to "invert" and roll off the end of the line. Concerning the EDK, it is my understanding that a EDK in the form of a figure 8 has tested to invert at lower loads than that of overhand knot. I believe Chris Harmston at BD is the administrator of the test.
|
|
ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
Monterey, CA
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2005 - 04:26pm PT
|
We did E-butt of El Cap that day and heard something that sounded like a winch motor during the rescue. I guess that those might have been power drills so the SAR guys prob dont have to used hand drills (nor should they in my opinion- not that it matters).
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!