son of hart

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tarallo

Trad climber
italy
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2010 - 08:25am PT
hi can i have some info about this route?
what route can be compared ?for example mescalito or the shield
is it much harder than those etc
can you post some photos?
ciao
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 28, 2010 - 08:41am PT
oh deer.
Cooler chimblys, from what I've gathered.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 28, 2010 - 09:17am PT
http://supertopo.com/climbers-forum/682186/Son_Of_Heart_-_T_R
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 28, 2010 - 09:25am PT
There's some stuff here on McTopo.

I climbed it with Tom in the fall of '04. In spite of its outstanding natural line, it is one of my LEAST favourite El Cap routes.

There are some pretty nasty offwidths and chimneys that are hellaciously awkward. My lack of free climbing ability is well-known, but I am a caver, and usually do OK in chimneys. But these ones were tough and unfriendly, "as much fun to clean as they are to lead."

We brought along some 9" and 12" Valley Giant cams which obviously helped a lot, but even so, these chimneys were HARD and wicked awkward.

I have my Dr. Piton Super-Duper Beta topo scanned, and I could email it to you if you like - send me an email via the website so I can reply. And it might cost you a few beers on the bridge this spring... {wink}

Excalibur is a much better route nearby. Sunkist is brilliant and much much better. Cosmos isn't bad.

I haven't done the Shield, but SOH is a couple notches harder than a trade route like Mescalito, for sure. It sees very few ascents. I think it's only had the one ascent linked above since we did it.

In spite of it being one of my least favourite routes on the Captain, if not my VERY least favourite, on a different post here on McTopo, you will find a number of climbers writing that they have climbed it, and saying they really liked it. So one man's grovel-fest is another man's classic.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Jan 28, 2010 - 10:32am PT
See the link Wally provides to my earlier Trip Report from 2008 for lots of pictures.

Bring some large cams & be solid on wide cracks, or at least have the ability to aid your way up them. A 9" cam or two would be nice to have.

On pitch 10, where the C-Mac topo shows a pendulum over left, you can hook instead directly over to the upper crack. An old bolt is nearby and 2 or 3 hook moves get you to the crack much more easily than the grassy nailing you would have to do if you pendo.

Great position, cool rock and a high Obscurity factor make this a memorable route.

Have fun!
tarallo

Trad climber
italy
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2010 - 10:48am PT
thank you so much the kierkegard chimney seems very hard....
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 28, 2010 - 11:56am PT
Bill's hooking tip above [the "slick arete" pitch] is important! I used the bolt and penji'd-lowered down, only to find myself climbing a vertical jungle of bushes. Really really horrible.

Kierkegaard didn't seem too bad [the 13th pitch] but the chimney above it [the 14th pitch] was a REAL struggle for both me as leader, and for Tom as cleaner. And that was WITH the big cams!

Blech. Why the appeal of this route?

Bill - you've done a ton of El Cap routes - what was your bottom line take on SOH? Great? Good? OK? Not good? Horrible? I'd be somewhere between "not good" with some "horrible" thrown in. So many better routes to climb, in my opinion.
tarallo

Trad climber
italy
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
pete do you think the shield is better?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 28, 2010 - 05:36pm PT
Amazingly, the Shield is one route I have knott yet done! So I can't tell you.

But I just didn't like Son of Heart, even being a caver I didn't like the chimneys and the claustrophic feeling. So in spite of never having done the Shield, I'm sure I personally would enjoy it a LOT more than Son of Heart. In fact, I would enjoy a visit to the dentist more than Son of Heart.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Jan 28, 2010 - 07:10pm PT
Hey Pete, I liked it! The route was more strenuous than most but with memorable pitches & position. The wide stuff was burly but who wants to do easy walls?

Lots of killer gold & tangerine colored rock up there to enjoy.
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
Jan 29, 2010 - 01:02am PT
Spring of 1975 Dave Stutzman RIP, and Maurice(from Norway)attempted the second. Neither one of them had done a route on the Captain. Dave led Kierkegaard and Nietzsche chimney pitches totally unprotected. From belay to belay with zero/zilch/Nada piece of pro. Dave described it as a double overhanging flared OW/chimney. Did it with no aid or pro. No one has done it in that style since. Although Dale and Gramicci must have come close with just the bongs.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 29, 2010 - 03:41am PT
Bill, loved your post on this one!!

Especially this one of "E" enjoying a refreshment break midlead!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 29, 2010 - 03:51am PT
so, if your'e oaky with leading .10 wyde do you really need to drag those boat anchors, with you?
Darkcrystal

Trad climber
Lausanne, Switzerland
Aug 4, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
It has been written above
"Spring of 1975 Dave Stutzman RIP, and Maurice(from Norway)attempted the second. Neither one of them had done a route on the Captain. Dave led Kierkegaard and Nietzsche chimney ..."
So far OK, except I am Swiss.
What is written after is false, pure legend! Dave did place several protections, in particular we had some 10-15cm aluminium tubes (I may still have some in my basement), and in order to remove them when jumaring up, I had to go so deep inside the chimneys that I had to remove my helmet.
I do not claim that these protections were very good ... but probably not worse than the belays :-(
We have been rescued 3 pitches below the top on the 12th day, by Mark Chapman, Jim Orey, and 3 of their friends who helped carrying water and ropes.
May Ganesh protect them! One week later, Jim even did lend me some hardware to go to the triple direct ... the kind of nice gestures you will never forget!
maurice
Silver

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Aug 4, 2011 - 03:18pm PT
^^^^^^ There you have it^^^^^^^^^

Another urban climbing myth squashed on the Taco.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Aug 4, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
Wow. You guys got rescued three pitches from the top? That's one easy nailing pitch, and two easy slab pitches.

Maurice - what happened?

[Thanks for your recollections, Butch, although they are of course second-hand]

I never could have gotten up SoH without Tom's big-ass Valley Giant cams. Yeah, I cheated. And we had a solar-powered shower on the summit.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Aug 4, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
Butch - Gnarly story of dirtbagdom. Thanks for the post.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Aug 4, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
On our ascent, the Iron Monkey led the Kierkegaard Chimney with two pieces of pro. He clipped a fixed bong and then placed a big bro tube that Yogi so graciously loaned us. When I cleaned the pitch I found out to my delight that Dave had forgotten to clip the tube chock thereby leading the entire gnarly pitch with on piece of pro.
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Aug 4, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
WALLEYE!!!6!!!
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Aug 5, 2011 - 12:23am PT
KILLER thread guys.

We need PICS LEVY!!!

;-)

Jeremy
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