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apogee
climber
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Jan 22, 2010 - 07:49pm PT
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bajaandy, my 30th birthday was a long time ago, so I'll share what's left in my hard drive....
We did it from the west, parking on the plateau and hiking down to Blue Bottle. Can't remember if we camped at the car or BB, though. Anyway, the Ridge felt very similar to a Sierra or desert peak, requiring careful routefinding- staying close to the crest was more aesthetic and technical, though there were many options to work around various towers along the way.
We brought a light rack, and I remember rapping into a notch at one point, but soloing/scrambling as much as possible. Even still, we were benighted and bivied on the upper end of Wall Street. Next day, descended the regular route to Campo Noche, then back up the canyon to the plateau. Good times!
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 07:56pm PT
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Thanks apogee. My 30th BD is 16 years behind me as well so I know what you mean. I was actually figuring on a bivy up on the ridge somewhere, so that fits with what you remember.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2015 - 04:32pm PT
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I just picked up a first edition of Norman Clydes book El Picacho Del Diablo.
As soon as I get it I'll post a few pics.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2015 - 02:00pm PT
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Cool trip report by Norman Clyde.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Oct 16, 2015 - 02:11pm PT
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Awesome thread. Never caught this first time around. Now for my usual smart-ass comment- "ya ain't been to Baja unless you've been in a Mexican jail."
Yeah...I have.
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Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Social climber
CO
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Oct 16, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
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Bat, mate.
I'm coming to your house to scrounge through desert records!
Cheers,
Camshaft
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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Cam,
Can you believe my wife wants me to get rid of them?? Not a chance!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 11, 2015 - 04:54pm PT
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Bump, for the grand old man.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Dec 11, 2015 - 06:10pm PT
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I have a few pics and a good story from coming in on the west side around 1995 or so. Will have to rifle through old prints to see what I dig up.
I seem to recall ring-tailed cats being a severe hindrance to getting any sleep at night down the canyon on the west side. Awesome view from the top, being able to see the Sea of Cortez on one side and Pacific Ocean on the other. I wonder how safe it is to get down there these days?
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
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Dec 11, 2015 - 10:03pm PT
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I wonder how safe it is to get down there these days? NutAgain!,
I'm in northern Baja 2 or 3 weekends per month and keep current with Baja news as relates to gringos and outdoor activities/camping. In general, it is safe if you use common sense. Protecting valuables and car break-ins are the main worries.
There are very few crime problems in the Sierra San Pedro Mártir, especially within the Parque Nacional. There is a high risk of vehicle burglary if you park at the desert eastside canyon trailheads. I'd recommend leaving the vehicle at a nearby ranch and pay them a few dollars to guard it.
My advice is to limit your time in Tijuana and avoid it at night. Stay on the toll road if entering Mexico at San Ysidro and bypass Tijuana streets and traffic.
Mexican immigration & customs rules are tightening up. Check for the latest crackdowns on already existing laws. It is selectively enforced and many travelers are reporting difficulty at the border and interior checkpoints if not in compliance. You will need a USA Passport and FMM temporary visa (with a fee) to travel south of Ensenada. BajaBound is a good source of current info:
http://www.bajabound.com/before/permits/
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