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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2010 - 11:28am PT
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Then he and Buggs start studderin' "I th th th think J J J Jefe ssssssandbagged us."
I'm thinking, Great these dudes are gonna epic and it's all on me.
Once I saw Bruce kick in with the palm down action I knew they'd be just fine.
Thanks Jefe. Guys have noted my apparent "uneasiness" before many large climbs that didn't seem to jive with my history. It's like my own little psych way of never underestimating a climb, so when I get past the half way point, I can really start enjoying it. Like it's not as bad as I kept telling myself it might be, make sense?
Getting up on the 4th?
BIG *ss ledge 2 pitches from the top.
Don't go too far to the left!
Thanks for that killer post Jefe. Wow, you got some awesome pictures!
Hey Vojtko, thanks a million for the camera bro!!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 14, 2010 - 11:54am PT
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Yeah, so once the Banditos climbed out of view it was just me and the dogs.
Rosebud is pretty rad, and knows the area. Scheaffer has the skills, but is still kinda green. Pretty cool watching a Chihuahua guide a Heeler up the 3rd class descent. They both crushed it.
We waited on the summit for a bit, wondering how da boyz would handle the last few nondescript pitches.
Dog Love
Scheaffer could sense Buggs was close.
The dogs summitted first
Rosebud in a cenote
Scheaffer- specimen
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Jan 14, 2010 - 11:59am PT
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Awww man. Thanks for putting this up here guys. It warms my heart. More than about any other area, I NEED to go climb here. My family came over with Cortes from Spain, and made their way up to Hatch county, and the town Truth or Consequences (my grandpa says it wasn't called that until the movie was made, and then they changed the name of the town) and have been in New Mexico, trying to hang on to a shred of Spanish culture since the 1600s. They claim to be spanish, although if one were to live there for 400 years, even with a large group of other spanish families, one would assuredly have Apache and Mexican blood as well. My grandpa has told me stories his grandpa told him of Victorio, the great war leader who raided with Cochise. My family, apparently, still has one of the largest cattle ranches in NM, and back then, my grandpas grandpa would see reeds coming down the middle of the river through their ranch. There were Chiricahua apaches breathing through the reeds, and they would come up through the brush and "liberate" a bunch of horses. My gpas gpa would excitedly notify his dad, and his dad would say "Don't look at them, let them go!" for he knew that to oppose the Apache would be a never-ending war with heavy casualties. Then, in times of feast not famine for the apache, they would find beautifully dressed young deer, perfectly cured on their porches from time to time.
These stories have always fascinated me.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
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Cool Jefe, great canine capers shots.
Do you have any pix of pitch 3 or 4 from below???
Getting close now, Heinrich! We must push for the summit now!
Ve must not dizgrace da fatherland!!
Super fun summit. But even better was the fact that Jefe took care of the critters and met us on top. Now we get a guide for the descent too?
This is waaay too posh!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
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Wildone, that is a great story!!
My family is from southern NM for generations also. Carlsbad, Las Cruces, Ruidoso people.
We went through Hatch and T or C going both ways.
I love the Spanish/Apache history here, and you can freekin' FEEL the Apache spirits in that place.
Where are you now?
Maybe you can give us an excuse to go back!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 14, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
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Remember, Buggs insists on a proper lineal timeline.
The Germans finally reached the summit and Scheaffer could finally relax.
Reunited and it feels so gooood.
TALK TO THE HOOF!!!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 14, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
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On the descent was when I really knew I could hang with these guys.
The whole way down they're sayin' stuff and noticing things that only people who've opened up the doors of perception would.
"No way! Look, there's Homer Simpson!"
"Look at that tree. It's so perfect. Like it couldn't be any other way"
I really appreciate that, paying attention to the small things and and seeing the beauty in nature.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 14, 2010 - 02:42pm PT
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Good stuff, guys!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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We had such a great descent, filling the space with a wide ranging conversation. Everything from spectacular terrain, to far away areas, to old friends, (That's you Pate). If you're willing to let it all in, there is just sooooo much more to climbing than just climbing. This is the kind of connection we made with Jefe.
Here we are marveling at the evening sky when Jefe or Buggs (which one of you was it?) turned around and said WHOAAA!!
This is what filled my happy eyeballs.
How's that for intense color?
And as we hiked out, this was in front of us!
Blue, you just might be my favorite conservative anywhere!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 14, 2010 - 03:02pm PT
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After we got back down, the guys couldn't, for the life of them, tell where the route went.
Maybe it was the "altitude".
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 14, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
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More than 4, Pate. I think misterE and skip left some residual good vibes on the route. I hope that's ALL they left!
The desert alpineglow is always awesome there, and the walkout takes you back through the African savannah-like landscape.
And the Arizona sunset delivered for the outoftowners.
OBEY THE BUD OBEY THE BUD OBEY THE BUD
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2010 - 04:39pm PT
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Jefe, those are great sunset shots!
I was lucky to get the two that I did with the camera shutting down.
Obey the Bud! Obey the Bud! She is a great dawg, and I'm glad Sheaf had a guide too.
What's that you say? Africa?
Oh yeah man.....BIG TIME!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 14, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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Deep thoughts.
Possible FCA?
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Buggs
Trad climber
Corrales, New Mexico
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Jan 14, 2010 - 05:38pm PT
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Thanks Jefe. Bruce and I both talked about the instant connection. Seems to happen alot with climbers, although not all. We honored Jefe at the car side chat we had before he left by making him an honorary Cozmic Bandito. He, in turn, honored us by reciprical linear adornation.
I will now also be known be the the alias,...
drlbuggman.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 14, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
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Buggs-
time for some new ink, perhaps?
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 14, 2010 - 05:48pm PT
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What at treat to get home and find this phuntastic TR waiting. I wish I'd been there.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 14, 2010 - 06:31pm PT
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Woo Hoo!!!!!!!
A climbing TR, and with my favorite peoples!!!!!!!!
You guys ROCK!!!!!!!
Like Philo, wish I'd been there--I sure am envious!!!!!!
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Jan 14, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
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Bump for Cochise Sunsets!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 14, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
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Yeah, I gotta get out there, my buddy kev gets out there but I've never been. Problem is, I got a lot of unfinished (unclimbed) stuff around here.
Cochise looks like my kinda climbin' though. You guys sure make it look fun. The dogs add to the joy too of course. I'll bet the dogs love trips like that just as much as y'all!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2010 - 07:27pm PT
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Nice MisterE! There is some awesome light there eh?
So the next day we humped back up to the wall and did the first pitch of Ewephoria, only to discover that we couldn't muster the psych or the energy.
We had a long discussion as so often happens at these moments and decided that what we really wanted to do was a road tour photo shoot!!
I almost forgot Buggs demonstrating the proper technique for bolt pinching, because I taught him 25 years ago never to stick your finger in one....
Fingers open.
and...pinch.
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