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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 13, 2010 - 04:59pm PT
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So I had a birthday climbing coupon from my family. And when the Brave Little Toaster has a few days off, well, sometimes ya just gotta go!
Anyway, we've been jonesing to see Cochise Stronghold for the first time, so I let Jefe know when we were closing in. His first feedback wasn't positive.......
Let it roll down the highway.
Texas Canyon offers some tasty teasers!
They're bigger than they look.
At Last! It's a looong way from ABQ.
Ahhhh, the pulse quickens!
Local flooooora.
Brave Little Toaster, self portrait.
No time to climb the first evening, so the BLT raises a tall cool one for himself.
The evening light is magical there.
The Zappa shirt was a requirement!
At least now we know that Jefe will be sneaking in to show us n00bs around!
Tomorrow, the meeting of Jefe and The Brave Little Toaster!!
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Buggs
Trad climber
Corrales, New Mexico
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Jan 13, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
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Survival got a little ahead of himself. As your personal tour guide, I pride myself in a geographic as well as a linear educational trip report. Cohise Stronghold is located in Coronado National Forest. As you will see, there is very little to climb there.
A four wheel drive vehicle, although not required, is preferred.
As well as a four-legged friend to pal with...
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Jan 13, 2010 - 05:12pm PT
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I have heard some bizarre names for a guys member, but "Brave Little Toaster"?
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Buggs
Trad climber
Corrales, New Mexico
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Jan 13, 2010 - 05:15pm PT
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The Brave Little Toaster is a state of mind.
The member is named Big Schmitty.
The Brave Little Toaster has but small, stubby knobs.
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Buggs
Trad climber
Corrales, New Mexico
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Jan 13, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
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First night was enjoyable, albiet cold for SW Finland.
After several wake-ups to shake the frost off our bones and fits of laughter as Sheaffer the Wonder Dog tried desperately to get out from the bottom of Survival's sleeping bag, the dawn arrived...
Dawn and dusk light are splendid in this desert Eden.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 05:44pm PT
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Dag Nab It! This place gets as cold as all other high desert climbing areas in January!!
First order of bizness after some French Roast Squeezin's is some hot chow.
Corn beef hash, eggs and Hatch Green Chilis will do it.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 06:00pm PT
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Now it's off to the Sheepshead, and to see if we can find the elusive Jefe monster.
We've linked up on the phone, so when we saw his Jefemobile pulling into the parking area, it was a great feeling.
It's funny, but after supertopo, it's like we had known each other for years! A handshake and a smile was all it took, but this was no ordinary meeting.
We had our very own personal beta-dictionary and guide for all things Sheepshead! (Good thing since we had no guidebook for that wall. I did have a page printed for Peacemaker off MountainProj.)
But first there was a surreal border scene to deal with. A Peruvian fellow came up and asked us to call the policia. A strange request indeed! Jefe and the BLT did their best to decipher the situation.
Turns out that there was a sick Mexican woman with these two Peruvian guys and they wanted to get her some medical attention for some kind of stomach issue. The BLT is a nurse, so he quickly went to check this lady out.
Meanwhile Jefe tried to make it clear to the guys that there would be much more than an ambulance coming, and they just sadly nodded their heads.
They seemed to relish the food offerings we made.
The local Sheriff that was first on the scene was one impressive looking individual and his spanish was impeccable!
We finally got going on our approach.
Two new friends.
Not only did Jefe and The Brave Little Toaster meet, but so did Sheaffer and Rosebud!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 13, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
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Excellent!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 06:37pm PT
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Peacemaker...7 Pitches...5.10a...every pitch.
Once again, we're not tearing up the cutting edge, but for us old farts, it will be a pretty big bite for our first intro to a new place.
"So Jefe, should we take a second rope.....you know, just in case?"
"Nah, it's short crux sections with lots of jugs and glory climbing in between."
"So what about this rack issue?"
"15 draws, maybe one cam."
For seven pitches?.....*gulp*
The Brave Little Toaster was already warming up his famous stutter.
"Hey B..B..B..BBBRUCE, what if this H..H..H..H..HHHJefe guy is a feckin' S..S..S..SSSSSSSANDBAGGER!?"
We're having a ball and we're just getting started! But isn't that the way all good epics start?
Look dude, just go right up the middle!
Casting off into another ocean of granite!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 13, 2010 - 07:55pm PT
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Crispy critter cosmic climbers crushing Cochise crystals.
Cool!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 13, 2010 - 10:25pm PT
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Buggs- love the CRUSHER photo.
Survival- what the hell are you wearing on your feet in the dirt cooking pic???
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 13, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
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Yeah I noticed "The Crusher" as well! Never seen one of the those beasts...Gosh I haven't been to the Stronghold in over 20 years...What a cool place!
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Jan 13, 2010 - 11:26pm PT
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So nice! Sorry we missed you guys by a week!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 13, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
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this looks like a lot of fun! Wish I was there!! My speed, for sure. Again, too, love the Doggies. Is the Australian Cattle Dob/Queensland heeler Rosebud or Scheaffer?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 11:40pm PT
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HA! Rosebud is the black radar dish ears with the short legs.
Sheaffer is the Heeler!
Rosebud is small but mighty. She was in charge of the dog show.
You know, being a local and all......
The Brave Little Toaster feeling good!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jan 13, 2010 - 11:43pm PT
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Geeeez Survival
You drink that ,"Beer that made Milwaukee famous made a loser out of me," concoction????? I mean when in Rome or close to Rome try to indulge in the local cerveza?No?
Looks like fun!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2010 - 12:19am PT
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Hiya Guido! Pipe down sailor boy....HA!
eKatkoolitamagickeeper, yeah, I wish I had that ladder too!
Jefe, crispy cosmic climbers crushing Cochise crystals...Oh man, I thought you'd never pull it off.
The camp boots are actually mukluks out of an old Air Force survival kit.
Them are some serious warm booties, don't make fun of 'em!
That rock color is sooo cool sometimes!
There is a lot to remind you of the Needles there.
Lots of good stances too.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 14, 2010 - 09:57am PT
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I'm still trying to find the cable thingies for my camera. Until then, no photos from me. Mine kick in later in the day anyway.
So yeah, the Banditos give me short notice that they're coming and I manage to swing it. BTW, my car is neither 4WD or high clearance. The road in is known as the "Autobahn of dirt roads".
Days after the immigration scenario I'm still getting calls on my cell from the Peruvian's friends in "New Yersey".
I had been there the week before and climbed Peacemaker myself, well, not BY myself. Anyway, I thought it'd be a perfect route for these guys. I mean, we're dealing with Birchell here, he'll float it. It only has a few tuggy spots and is riddled with bolts.
Then he and Buggs start studderin' "I th th th think J J J Jefe ssssssandbagged us."
I'm thinking, Great these dudes are gonna epic and it's all on me.
Once I saw Bruce kick in with the palm down action I knew they'd be just fine.
It was cool watching them climb the route and hear their banter.
One minute they're German, next minute Asian, studdering...
These guys definitely know how to have a good time when they're climbing.
My plan was to hang with the dogs and scamper to the summit, which I did.
(photos soon, promise.)
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 14, 2010 - 10:35am PT
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Trip report alert!!!!
aaaarrrroooooo!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jan 14, 2010 - 11:21am PT
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First, here's some some proof from the week prior.
Notice the apprehension. This is also when Bruce proclaimed he had runners older than me! My response- "That's your problem!"
Bruce, like riding a bike, kinda.
Buggs, bbbbb buggin
Sheaff skipping bolts
Bruce past the tuggy part of P2
"Jjjjj Jefe- where does it go?"
"I can't remember, can you see the next bolt?"
Tee hee hee, there wasn't one! A nice run to the anchors.
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