Mtnyoung completed his 800th climb at Pinnacles today!

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 11, 2010 - 12:14am PT

Yep, mtnyoung did his 800th route in Pinnacles National Monument in good style* by putting up a really nice First Ascent and sharing that ascent with a bunch of friends. This route is the product of 25 years of Pinnacles experience.

Here he is finishing up the crux of his 800th route in his tye dye shirt in the chute on the right...

*By good style, I mean either lead as a clean redpoint or onsight lead (many first ascents) or toproped the climb if it was designated as a top rope.

Mind you it ain't easy. Redpoints include difficulty up to 11c, and at all grades he's done some tremendously mind rattling ascents.

Congrats Brad!

The climber at the left arete is Mucci updating a bolt placement.

Slater

Trad climber

Central Coast

Jan 11, 2010 - 12:17am PT

Congrats Brad!

800 on Pinnacles Rock! That's a feat!
I can see why bay area climbers go there, it's close, but why would someone who lives in the middle of Sierra granite drive 400 miles round trip to hit up the joint? People are gonna wonder about your mental capacity.

And I gotta ask... you count 'em?!

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Jan 11, 2010 - 01:12am PT

Go for the 1000....you got it, Brad........bang it out....throw it down....shed the mantel, get busy,....party on...

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2010 - 01:13am PT

he's quite exacting about his total number of climbs completed in good style at various areas.

Unfortunately, it seems to be contagious. :)

hoipolloi

climber

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi

Jan 11, 2010 - 01:15am PT

Where is that new route?

I spent the day out at The Hand, did Carpal Tunnel Syndrome, 50 Meter Must, Lifeline, and Love Line. All fantastic routes, better than I thought they would be, for sure!

Congrats Brad, thats a lotta crud to climb!

Joe

Social climber

Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos

Jan 11, 2010 - 01:20am PT

nicely done Mr. Brad!

Dave, that's a nice day on the hand. those are all excellent routes. must have been a bit cold there early though.

hoipolloi

climber

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi

Jan 11, 2010 - 01:44am PT

Not cold at all Joe. It was a little humid today so it was pretty sweaty, actually. Perfect temps.

Greg Barnes

climber

Jan 11, 2010 - 01:53am PT

at all grades he's done some tremendously mind rattling ascents.

At Pinnacles? We don't believe you. That place has such bomber, clean rock with perfect holds and no runout climbing - how could anything there be mind rattling?

Sarcasm aside - nice Brad, congrats!!

mrtropy

Trad climber

Nor Cal

Jan 11, 2010 - 09:35am PT

Great! Hope the journey was fun getting there,

mtnyoung

Trad climber

Twain Harte, California

Jan 11, 2010 - 11:36am PT

Greg, when you say things like:

"At Pinnacles? We don't believe you. That place has such bomber, clean rock with perfect holds and no runout climbing - how could anything there be mind rattling?"

I begin to see how much you and I think alike. I've tried for years to convince people that Pinns rock is indeed clean and bomber. OK, kidding aside, Pinns does still offer perfect adventure in a rock climbing world where that is not always the case. That's what made me fall in love with the place half a lifetime ago.

Yep, this was the 800th route I've climbed at Pinnacles. Thanks again to those of you who joined me to establish a new route, now called "The 800 Club." I think consensus was 5.7*. The first ascent party consisted of 13 people, including Munge, Mucci, Uber, Jim McCon., LTclimb and his wife and his son, LT's neighbor Steve, Waldo, QITNL, Tyler, and my daughter Tricia (5.7 is only 5.7 if you're over 4'7"!). I led the route (placing the third/last bolt and continuing to the top) and then a continuous stream of climbers seconded it (with much laughter at our silliness).

Steve placed his very first bolt on his first FA. LTclimb did the same, but on a still unfinished project. Munge, that bolt you placed on the same project at the end of the day was brilliant climbing - everyone else was ready to quit and you kept it going. Several people also got to see Jim McCon, "the human Bosch" place bolts by hand on lead (his shoulder's recovered after surgery). That guy is so fast it's mind boggling. Uber then got to drill using Jim's brilliant "double drill" system. Mucci gave an example of perfect natural pro on good Pinns rock and then got in the crux bolt above that. Waldo walked around the back and helped me place the anchor bolts. We got to catch up on life, together, at the top of the pinnacle while drilling; all the while with condors buzzing us as close as 10 feet. Although she didn't climb, having my wife Vicki up there with us brought back memories of the great days at Pinns when she was able to join me on almost every trip.

As silly as it sounds, I felt like I had a great day at my own birthday party.

I haven't downloaded my photos yet, so I can only post these which were emailed to me by a friend.

My wife is downloading her photos now - she took several unreal shots of the condors buzzing us. They are so curious, I looked right into the eyes of the one who got within 10 feet of me. It reminded me of an excited airplane passenger looking out the window at the sights. I'll post some of those this evening.

euro-brief-guy

climber

Auburn, ca

Jan 11, 2010 - 11:41am PT

Nice going Brad.

Can't wait to see the Sonora Guide.

SM

mtnyoung

Trad climber

Twain Harte, California

Jan 11, 2010 - 11:46am PT

Mrtrophy, your comment: "Great! Hope the journey was fun getting there."

That hit the nail on the head. Perfect summary in 8 words.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, Ca.

Jan 11, 2010 - 11:55am PT

That's awesome. Congrats on that!

cool pic of the young girl climbing too!

rhyang

climber

SJC

Jan 11, 2010 - 11:56am PT

Congrats Brad ! Great meeting you a month ago.

klk

Trad climber

cali

Jan 11, 2010 - 12:32pm PT

800 routes at Pinnacles?

Congrats, man.

You must've done something really bad in a previous life. Heh.

Studly

Trad climber

Jan 11, 2010 - 12:45pm PT

Pretty darn cool

mtnyoung

Trad climber

Twain Harte, California

Jan 11, 2010 - 01:23pm PT

rhyang, it was good to meet you and lisae. I haven't seen you post about the rock we dropped toward you while we worked on Los Banditos last month, so I assume all is forgiven?

Todd, about hitting 1,000 routes: the total number of existing routes at Pinnacles is 930 (within 5 either way). Of those, I'm not capable of climbing 40 or 50, and I'm 49 years old. Do the math and I doubt I'll ever hit 1,000. I'd love to get in 900, but we'll see (thanks for the cheers though).

Slater, I've climbed with you (and I know you've run all over the state climbing yourself), so I know you understand. And it's not like I haven't done hundreds of climbs in the Valley, and hundreds in the Meadows and the Sierra. And on Sonora Pass, etc. But I fell in love with Pinns early in my climbing career. The place has such history and traditions. And a spirit of adventure.

Mucci drilling the crux bolt:

Drilling on the project next to The 800 Club: