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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 11, 2010 - 12:14am PT
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Yep, mtnyoung did his 800th route in Pinnacles National Monument in good style* by putting up a really nice First Ascent and sharing that ascent with a bunch of friends. This route is the product of 25 years of Pinnacles experience.
Here he is finishing up the crux of his 800th route in his tye dye shirt in the chute on the right...
*By good style, I mean either lead as a clean redpoint or onsight lead (many first ascents) or toproped the climb if it was designated as a top rope.
Mind you it ain't easy. Redpoints include difficulty up to 11c, and at all grades he's done some tremendously mind rattling ascents.
Congrats Brad!
The climber at the left arete is Mucci updating a bolt placement.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jan 11, 2010 - 12:17am PT
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Congrats Brad!
800 on Pinnacles Rock! That's a feat!
I can see why bay area climbers go there, it's close, but why would someone who lives in the middle of Sierra granite drive 400 miles round trip to hit up the joint? People are gonna wonder about your mental capacity.
And I gotta ask... you count 'em?!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jan 11, 2010 - 01:12am PT
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Go for the 1000....you got it, Brad........bang it out....throw it down....shed the mantel, get busy,....party on...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2010 - 01:13am PT
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he's quite exacting about his total number of climbs completed in good style at various areas.
Unfortunately, it seems to be contagious. :)
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 11, 2010 - 01:15am PT
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Where is that new route?
I spent the day out at The Hand, did Carpal Tunnel Syndrome, 50 Meter Must, Lifeline, and Love Line. All fantastic routes, better than I thought they would be, for sure!
Congrats Brad, thats a lotta crud to climb!
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Jan 11, 2010 - 01:20am PT
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nicely done Mr. Brad!
Dave, that's a nice day on the hand. those are all excellent routes. must have been a bit cold there early though.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jan 11, 2010 - 01:44am PT
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Not cold at all Joe. It was a little humid today so it was pretty sweaty, actually. Perfect temps.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jan 11, 2010 - 01:53am PT
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at all grades he's done some tremendously mind rattling ascents.
At Pinnacles? We don't believe you. That place has such bomber, clean rock with perfect holds and no runout climbing - how could anything there be mind rattling?
Sarcasm aside - nice Brad, congrats!!
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 11, 2010 - 09:35am PT
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Great! Hope the journey was fun getting there,
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 11, 2010 - 11:36am PT
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Greg, when you say things like:
"At Pinnacles? We don't believe you. That place has such bomber, clean rock with perfect holds and no runout climbing - how could anything there be mind rattling?"
I begin to see how much you and I think alike. I've tried for years to convince people that Pinns rock is indeed clean and bomber. OK, kidding aside, Pinns does still offer perfect adventure in a rock climbing world where that is not always the case. That's what made me fall in love with the place half a lifetime ago.
Yep, this was the 800th route I've climbed at Pinnacles. Thanks again to those of you who joined me to establish a new route, now called "The 800 Club." I think consensus was 5.7*. The first ascent party consisted of 13 people, including Munge, Mucci, Uber, Jim McCon., LTclimb and his wife and his son, LT's neighbor Steve, Waldo, QITNL, Tyler, and my daughter Tricia (5.7 is only 5.7 if you're over 4'7"!). I led the route (placing the third/last bolt and continuing to the top) and then a continuous stream of climbers seconded it (with much laughter at our silliness).
Steve placed his very first bolt on his first FA. LTclimb did the same, but on a still unfinished project. Munge, that bolt you placed on the same project at the end of the day was brilliant climbing - everyone else was ready to quit and you kept it going. Several people also got to see Jim McCon, "the human Bosch" place bolts by hand on lead (his shoulder's recovered after surgery). That guy is so fast it's mind boggling. Uber then got to drill using Jim's brilliant "double drill" system. Mucci gave an example of perfect natural pro on good Pinns rock and then got in the crux bolt above that. Waldo walked around the back and helped me place the anchor bolts. We got to catch up on life, together, at the top of the pinnacle while drilling; all the while with condors buzzing us as close as 10 feet. Although she didn't climb, having my wife Vicki up there with us brought back memories of the great days at Pinns when she was able to join me on almost every trip.
As silly as it sounds, I felt like I had a great day at my own birthday party.
I haven't downloaded my photos yet, so I can only post these which were emailed to me by a friend.
My wife is downloading her photos now - she took several unreal shots of the condors buzzing us. They are so curious, I looked right into the eyes of the one who got within 10 feet of me. It reminded me of an excited airplane passenger looking out the window at the sights. I'll post some of those this evening.
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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Jan 11, 2010 - 11:41am PT
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Nice going Brad.
Can't wait to see the Sonora Guide.
SM
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 11, 2010 - 11:46am PT
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Mrtrophy, your comment: "Great! Hope the journey was fun getting there."
That hit the nail on the head. Perfect summary in 8 words.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 11, 2010 - 11:55am PT
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That's awesome. Congrats on that!
cool pic of the young girl climbing too!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jan 11, 2010 - 11:56am PT
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Congrats Brad ! Great meeting you a month ago.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 11, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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800 routes at Pinnacles?
Congrats, man.
You must've done something really bad in a previous life. Heh.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 11, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
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Pretty darn cool
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 11, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
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rhyang, it was good to meet you and lisae. I haven't seen you post about the rock we dropped toward you while we worked on Los Banditos last month, so I assume all is forgiven?
Todd, about hitting 1,000 routes: the total number of existing routes at Pinnacles is 930 (within 5 either way). Of those, I'm not capable of climbing 40 or 50, and I'm 49 years old. Do the math and I doubt I'll ever hit 1,000. I'd love to get in 900, but we'll see (thanks for the cheers though).
Slater, I've climbed with you (and I know you've run all over the state climbing yourself), so I know you understand. And it's not like I haven't done hundreds of climbs in the Valley, and hundreds in the Meadows and the Sierra. And on Sonora Pass, etc. But I fell in love with Pinns early in my climbing career. The place has such history and traditions. And a spirit of adventure.
Mucci drilling the crux bolt:
Drilling on the project next to The 800 Club:
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Jan 11, 2010 - 01:28pm PT
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Jan 11, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
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Congrats Brad! At the rate you're going the next hundred will all be FAs and you'll have to update the book.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jan 11, 2010 - 01:44pm PT
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What rock ? Must have been a different party :)
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r2d2
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jan 11, 2010 - 02:12pm PT
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Congratulations! I wish I were there. Maybe I will do the 900th climb with you. Nice pictures of T girl. She is my hero!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 11, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
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Wow, Brad! 800 of any thing is alot (except microbes or quarks) especially Pinnacle climbs. Congratulations.
Cute kid. Happy New year.
Roger
PS: I think I read that you calculated there were about 900 routes in Pinnacles as of the end of 2008. I am curious if there is any characteristic of the 100 or so that you haven't done? Too solid maybe?
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jan 11, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
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ha ha, I'm from the Central Coast... bad rock is our daily bread, and bread ain't so bad. We do have exceptions (Bishop Peak and Cerro Romualdo) but most is just marginal. It's about adventure and fun, so eat up!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
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Is Romualdo open? Sorry, don't have the book and I ferget which sisters are open to being crawled on?
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jan 11, 2010 - 03:24pm PT
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good stuff..
stuff you can be proud of.. you know.... later!!!
Cheers to the 800 route guy...
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Jan 11, 2010 - 04:15pm PT
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Brad, again great job and I've got years of catching up to do.
Joe, keep posting! Trish looks like she is having fun.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jan 11, 2010 - 04:16pm PT
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Munge, looking manly.
Cerro Romualdo has limited access.
If you want to climb there, pm me and I'll hook you up.
It took 4 years, but it's back open! ASCA helped me upgrade all to 1/2" SS.
Best climbing in SLO for sure.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
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It's just the helmet that makes me look that way.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 11, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
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Neat photo feature and you can see the climbers.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jan 11, 2010 - 06:25pm PT
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Nice job Brad. Keep it up.
The Pinns, as you know, is a unique and fun climbing area.
Here's to the next 800!!
Paul
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 11, 2010 - 07:45pm PT
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bad rock is our daily bread
i know a devil worshipper when i see one.
i bet those condors in qtnl's pic are really turkey vultures.
funny how we learn to tolerate or even appreciate choss when it has some emotional connection.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jan 11, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
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I enjoyed the condor pics. Do turkey vultures usually have wing tags ? :)
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 11, 2010 - 08:15pm PT
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Do turkey vultures usually have wing tags ?
It's California. We have a budget deficit.
You have to buy a license from Fish and Game to enter the feasting-on-carrion lottery.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 11, 2010 - 09:54pm PT
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From below, the back two thirds of a Turkey Vulture's wings are grey/white. The front third is black. California Condors are the opposite, the front third is grey/white.
My wife took video yesterday with her camera and then set it to music. At one point a condor flies so close to me on top of the pinnacle that I reach out to it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2rWXLUnocQ
So who can name the music she set it to? (The video itself provides a very big hint.)
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jan 11, 2010 - 10:05pm PT
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Beautiful .. the flutes on the Simon & Garfunkel track seemed to compliment the birds perfectly.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jan 11, 2010 - 10:13pm PT
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El Condor Pasa (If I Could) by Simon & Garfunkel
awesome video! Just beautiful.
And well done on the 800. Oh these crazy obsessions...
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 12, 2010 - 09:48am PT
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Yeah, the video is set to El Condor Pasa, a nice song. I've always liked Simon and Garfunkel. My grandma's name was Robinson (Mrs. Robinson, and when the song came out I had no idea that the song was tied to the Mrs Robinson in the movie!)
I downloaded my photos and I'll post two more. One for Gagner, hoping he reads this again: Paul, of course you've seen this guy drilling on lead many, many times. He's still at it, still incredibly fast. His shoulder seems much better now. And he still gives me the same answer when I ask how he'll explain to his young daughter names like "Heat Seeking Moisture Missile," and "Even Coyotes Like it Doggie Style." He always says "oh, those were Paul's names."
This one of Mucci, who posts here. Drilling on lead. He's a young guy who already loves Pinns for what and how it is:
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 12, 2010 - 10:44am PT
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Nice video. Do you ever see wild boars at Pinnacles anymore? We followed one running down the road for a short time (late 60s). For some reason it didn't immmediately take off into the brush.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jan 12, 2010 - 11:25am PT
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Ha ha -nice shot Brad - my daughter just turned 5 and I'm thinking I'm going to be so old by the time that question pops up I'll be able to pull the amnesia card!!
Nice job again.
Paul
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 12, 2010 - 11:38am PT
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Paul, I can't believe your daughter is 5 already. The amnesia card - I never thought of that. Brilliant. No matter what you do though, she'll always think that your life before fatherhood was weird and irrelevant.
Roger, I haven't seen pigs (javalinas) in the monument since the very early 2000s. During the last ten or so years the Park Service has anti-pig fenced the whole of Pinnacles (which now goes clear out to Highway 25 on the east side of the park). They're a feral species and apparently cause a lot of damage. So, I think they're gone in the monument. But they're still plentiful in the surrounding areas.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jan 12, 2010 - 11:52am PT
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Those critters aren't native? I didn’t know that. They certainly didn't look domesticated--hairy and dark.
BTW, there is no hiding your youthful transgressions from your kids: they assume the worst and it’s not sensible to provide the details to support why it wasn't as bad as they think. Burn the negatives.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 12, 2010 - 11:54am PT
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Cool video! Kinda neat how they keep buzzing you guys.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 12, 2010 - 11:57am PT
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Props Brad!
And while it doesn't say, I'm guessing those are 800 *different* routes. Myself, I know I've done at least a couple dozen different ones, but man, thousands of ascents!
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 12, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
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Javalinas are native to the south west and are differnt than the wild pigs there. Wild pigs in the coastal range are decendants of feral European pigs. Used to hear those things rooting around at night near the campground of the east side. Mean ugly things but they can be quite tastey.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 12, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
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Mean ugley things but they can be quite tastey.
They are tasty. A buddy of mine shot some a few years ago. Had sausages made from them. Tasty indeed!
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 12, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
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A few years back I shot a small female, much better than the boars for eating. At the time I had a Lao girlfriend who made jerky out of it. Then you fried it and ate with sticky rice and ice cold beer. awesome!!
More people should be killing and eating them, healthier than farm pork and they damaged the enviroment.
Sorry for the drift.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
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k-man, yep, spot on, the record of 800 (yep the lonely 800 club member), is for distinct redpoints. No duplicate ascents counted. Those are individual routes. And yep, with is warm ups, he's ascended well over a thousand, er, what do we call them? pitches?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 12, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
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K-man, yes that's 800 different routes I've done, redpoint or better (except as to routes that only exist as TRs). Like you I've also done several of the routes a bunch of times (routes like Old Original, Dos Equis, POD, Portent, and a route you might be familiar with: Wet Kiss :) ). I've also "been on" a ton of routes that I haven't been able to climb in good style, but these don't count. I decided long ago that since I can't climb hard routes, I'd climb a lot of routes (which is a fun game in itself).
Mrtrophy, that's much better explanation of the pigs. I didn't know that the introduced boars were not the same as javalinas.
So, I have a question: I've done a large number of routes in Pinnacles. I've spent a lot of climbing time there. Yet I live 182.4453 miles away from the nearest side (got that distance down to a science). Can I call myself a Pinnacles local?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 12, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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Well I just held out for the 50th post! WHOOP
It was a great day we all shared in such a pristine location. Congrats Brad for hitting your milestone! I have had the pleasure of ticking off a few with you in recent months...The ones you left for the END! HAHA.
Oh and since nobody mentioned it, where would we be without that red tagline?
Best Regards,
Mucci
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
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red tagline: we would have done a lot of downclimbing.
hahaha
Brad, I'd say that qualifies for local status. :)
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r2d2
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jan 12, 2010 - 04:17pm PT
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Very nice Video. Vicki is the best. I am really sorry that I did not make it that day.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Jan 12, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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an Inspiration to be sure..renews my faith in the Pinns as well. I had to get out your guidebook just for grins on this dreary weather day..curious re your count for SNP?
Maureen
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 12, 2010 - 06:41pm PT
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Hey Maureen, thanks for the comment about the book. Looks like the dreary weather is with us for a while.
Regarding your comment: "curious re your count for SNP?", although it may seem strange, I can list exactly the number of routes I've done in the Sonora Pass area (I can usually list such numbers for an area quickly, at least at I can at this time of year). The number of routes I've done here, in good style, is 531.
Although I probably sound like an obsessive/compulsive, I don't think I am. I just keep careful track of the routes I've done because it adds to the enjoyment I get from climbing. Many people just climb; here and there, never keeping track of anything. Perfect for them. In contrast, since 1986 I've kept a diary of every climb I've done in good style (with date and the partner(s) I did it with). Every New Year's Day I add up my totals by area. I do this for fun. I'll never lead 5.12, but I get fun from numbers by doing as many climbs as I can in any area. I also often keep notes about climbs, which has come in handy for guidebooks and internet posts.
I know other people who are similar in their note-taking. Mungeclimber alluded to this earlier. I've seen his notes, which are very detailed too. His notes come in handy - he's shared large amounts of info about climbing up here with me, all of which is going into the second edition SPH book (along with a couple good photos of him in action!). Munge, post up about your system of abreviations for how you did particular climbs, it's very detailed. Another such person is Clint who's an amazing note-taker and record keeper. It seems like he answers loads of inquiries on this site, often within minutes.
It's just another thing to enjoy about the sport.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 12, 2010 - 09:42pm PT
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munge...look'n good on the FA....
photo is by QITNL
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 12, 2010 - 10:17pm PT
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He is about to enter the Choss, Locating a suitable place for a bolt whilst on stance was entertaining to those of us on the ground!
Good work Munge, That will be a "Bumps" Testpiece!
Mucci
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 12, 2010 - 10:44pm PT
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David, this is where he was headed (he found a nice hole/slot for a hook that let him let go to drill):
EDIT: there's something about that photo in the post two above that is the wrong angle. The angle of the buttress is much better portrayed in the photo which is in this post.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 13, 2010 - 12:04am PT
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ok, i agree, this is the angle that we need to accept for the FA...munge is look'n good...
photo is by QITNL from above
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 12:12am PT
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It was stanceable, but I'm not in shape to be able stance and drill sideways by bending at the waist.
You know what kind of hook that was!???
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 13, 2010 - 12:17am PT
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QITNL - good for you on that JB hammer. I did my own small part as well. That hammer is proud! Sorry to poach your photo. I obviously need to sort out that crediting better.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 12:20am PT
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issa Moses fatty hook...
photo not from above route
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 13, 2010 - 08:35pm PT
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hey there all... say, i am so very sorry for being late, here...
SAY, CONGRATUALTIONS! :
god bless... :)
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