Joshua Tree problem/TR?

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 27 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Johannsolo

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 8, 2010 - 01:12pm PT
Anyone know about the boulder problem/TR that is shown in the picture. C'mon old school slabmasters, this ones probably the best I've seen in the park. I can get to a mantle about half way up but need to keep working it. Probably V5 or 5.12 ish and 30' high.
Credit: Johannsolo
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Jan 8, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
That's a FINE slab!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jan 8, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
not one of mine.

looks cool though
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 8, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
sick
dktem

Trad climber
Temecula
Jan 8, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
Looks to get steeper as you go up.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 8, 2010 - 01:30pm PT
sweet looking superhighball. where is it? hows the landing? any pics from a different angle?
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 8, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
If that is the polished slab up and right as you just get into the park entrance, it was done in the '80's by the Chongo brothers and we always called it the Chongo Shield, and they top-roped it. Chongo Dave said he thought it was .12a.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 8, 2010 - 01:50pm PT
right mike, forgotten about that. looks close but it's been too many years...
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 8, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
Hey Bato!
You HAVE to come out for the Woodson deal! Would be great to see you, gonna be some oldies there, we'll all catch up and socialize, maybe get a few problems! Whada say?
Peace
Yer old buddy Ron
Johannsolo

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
That's it Mike. Very visible from the road up on the hillside on the right after entering the park. Are you sure they did the face and not the left arete?
Johannsolo

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2010 - 06:50pm PT
I'll be seeing Dave in a week of so and try to get it straight from the horses mouth. One of the best pieces of rock in the park if not the best slab.
F10

Trad climber
e350
Jan 8, 2010 - 07:16pm PT
I went up there with Epperson to check it out,
Cool piece of rock, when you are up there, check out the "other half"
It's about 75' downhill and face down on the slope
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 8, 2010 - 07:55pm PT
Just what I had heard long ago, and it was the face they were working on...I'd gone up to it myself many moons ago but after hearing that it had gone put it on the back burner...Was way self absorbed in the FA fever at that time...
T H

climber
. . . not !
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
Fa info/stories on the route(s) would be nice . Hard to imagine it not being on the radar of the stonemasters .
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:28pm PT
Yeah BIOTCH, it's kind of small and right at the gate...Our heroic one's were on there way in for adventures on a slightly grander scale...Not to say it's not a fine chunk but the Chongo's didn't really chime up too much about it, nor I might not think back then that they would have reported it in at Nomad's, although they should have I guess if they could...
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2010 - 06:54am PT
I finnaly talked to Dave Tucker who also called his brother Rich and they both stated to have NOT climbed the center of the face. Rich did the left arete. He tried the center face but never succeded. This really is one of the best slabs in the park. Anyone else hear of this thing being done?
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 25, 2010 - 06:57pm PT
Huh, wierd, they were working on it and told me back then that they had done it...Maybe just to keep people off it...
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Jan 25, 2010 - 07:08pm PT
That does look nice--might have to give it a go.

Curt
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2010 - 07:19pm PT
And as you said, they did'nt chime up about it either. I was just looking for some history on an amazing piece of rock. Check out that first post photo again.
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 09:41am PT
I did this on a TR two years ago have been trying to get it sauced enough to boulder it out. Having the low percentage crux at the top has slowed me down.
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