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Messages 1 - 26 of total 26 in this topic |
Johannsolo
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 8, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
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Anyone know about the boulder problem/TR that is shown in the picture. C'mon old school slabmasters, this ones probably the best I've seen in the park. I can get to a mantle about half way up but need to keep working it. Probably V5 or 5.12 ish and 30' high.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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That's a FINE slab!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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not one of mine.
looks cool though
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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sick
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dktem
Trad climber
Temecula
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Looks to get steeper as you go up.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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sweet looking superhighball. where is it? hows the landing? any pics from a different angle?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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If that is the polished slab up and right as you just get into the park entrance, it was done in the '80's by the Chongo brothers and we always called it the Chongo Shield, and they top-roped it. Chongo Dave said he thought it was .12a.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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right mike, forgotten about that. looks close but it's been too many years...
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Hey Bato!
You HAVE to come out for the Woodson deal! Would be great to see you, gonna be some oldies there, we'll all catch up and socialize, maybe get a few problems! Whada say?
Peace
Yer old buddy Ron
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Johannsolo
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
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That's it Mike. Very visible from the road up on the hillside on the right after entering the park. Are you sure they did the face and not the left arete?
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Johannsolo
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2010 - 09:50pm PT
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I'll be seeing Dave in a week of so and try to get it straight from the horses mouth. One of the best pieces of rock in the park if not the best slab.
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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I went up there with Epperson to check it out,
Cool piece of rock, when you are up there, check out the "other half"
It's about 75' downhill and face down on the slope
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Just what I had heard long ago, and it was the face they were working on...I'd gone up to it myself many moons ago but after hearing that it had gone put it on the back burner...Was way self absorbed in the FA fever at that time...
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Fa info/stories on the route(s) would be nice . Hard to imagine it not being on the radar of the stonemasters .
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Yeah BIOTCH, it's kind of small and right at the gate...Our heroic one's were on there way in for adventures on a slightly grander scale...Not to say it's not a fine chunk but the Chongo's didn't really chime up too much about it, nor I might not think back then that they would have reported it in at Nomad's, although they should have I guess if they could...
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2010 - 09:54am PT
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I finnaly talked to Dave Tucker who also called his brother Rich and they both stated to have NOT climbed the center of the face. Rich did the left arete. He tried the center face but never succeded. This really is one of the best slabs in the park. Anyone else hear of this thing being done?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 25, 2010 - 09:57pm PT
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Huh, wierd, they were working on it and told me back then that they had done it...Maybe just to keep people off it...
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Jan 25, 2010 - 10:08pm PT
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That does look nice--might have to give it a go.
Curt
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2010 - 10:19pm PT
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And as you said, they did'nt chime up about it either. I was just looking for some history on an amazing piece of rock. Check out that first post photo again.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
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I did this on a TR two years ago have been trying to get it sauced enough to boulder it out. Having the low percentage crux at the top has slowed me down.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 12:44pm PT
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:28pm PT
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Looks amazing. Kinda like a desert "Airstream"?
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 04:22pm PT
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Kinda like it but harder and higher. I was on Airstream a couple weeks ago and have it pretty sauced. I will try to boulder it out soon.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
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gracious ^^^^^
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 06:37pm PT
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The left arête is a real good 5.9 highball. The center is very hard, you would remember soloing (highballing) that one. Jon Gipson says "Hi". Hike up and check it out again, might jar some memories. We may be out at JT this weekend if your game?
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overwatch
climber
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Ha! Figures you know where the back door is.
Damn cool slab by the way
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