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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Jan 22, 2010 - 09:47pm PT
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Bump for drilling while slipping/n/sliding!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
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Great photos, Dave - thanks for sharing.
Rock Neurotic looks dang steep for a slab, and of course it's pretty slick there....
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
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Ok. I was able to dig up some more photos from the archives, although I still can't find my Hammer Dome first ascent pics. Also I am getting a little fuzzy on the names of some routes so any help you can give me would be appreciated. Will try to post more pics if you like these ones.
I will work on finding more drilling shots, I know that's what you want to see, but for now here's some Meadows slab climbing in the eighties.
For the record, the stuff I did over by Dead Ranger was my last hurrah, all drilled on lead using hooks or stance, but boy what a find that rock was, totally virgin when me and Oravetz started. I still have the hand drawn topo for that cliff, will post it after I scan it.
Another for the record, Omega Race is my pride and joy, what I consider to be my finest route of all routes in my opinion. Two pitches of pure gold with practically 5.11 moves between every bolt. The first pitch has a difficult mantle to get into the belay, and I made sure no one could clip the anchors before doing the move, hahaha. The second pitch on that route has six or seven bolts and is a full 165 feet long, ending on a beautiful ledge. Just be sure to take a number 4 stopper to protect the crux at the top, ask Steve about that one.
Hope you guys enjoy the pics.
Next pics are in the Valley of Settlemeyer and mine last route together, called Blade Runner. Long story about this one. Got thrown in jail because of this route, and not because of the bosch. If Rob didn't bail me out of jail it may never have been done. We did about 5 pitches on this then got snowed off and never returned to finish it. It was getting into aid land anyway by then.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
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Awesome!!! Thanks, Dave! Great stuff!
Was swilling usually part of the pre-drilling ritual? Classic…
Blade Runner…? Ah, I didn’t know that was one of your routes as well (no guidebooks handy). Klaus and I climbed part of that route, while working on a new project over there that eventually joined Rainbow to the tourist railing at the summit. Were you guys trying for an all free route to the summit? Or just a route up the lower slab?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jan 23, 2010 - 12:16am PT
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Keep those photos coming!!
Another for the record, Omega Race is my pride and joy, what I consider to be my finest route of all routes in my opinion.
You should be pysched to know that we replaced all the bolts on Omega Race in 2003. Brandon Lampley and I replaced the top anchor plus the top pro bolt, and Roger Brown replaced everything else. Roger also replaced Vapor Lock, although I don't remember if he replaced the top bolt (which was the only 5/16" buttonhead, and I think it also had a stainless SMC hanger).
So if anyone wants to check out Omega Race...old bolts are no excuse!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 23, 2010 - 12:32am PT
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Dave, did you go to davis in the mid 90's? I think I might have known you there.
I was a wee lad working for OA. Guiding- Ha! Didn't really even know how to climb, but when you're 18, it seems like a good idea to lead people dumber than you are up routes in the Valley.
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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Jan 23, 2010 - 02:32am PT
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Nope, did not ever go to Davis, just Chico and the Bay Area.
Hey Greg, Brandon and Roger,
Thank you for replacing those old quarter inchers on Omega Race. Hope they did not come out too easy. I have a couple of shots of the first ascent of Omega Race here.
I have some old Bald Rock (Chico area) shots I'll post after I get them scanned. These ones go way back, including the first ascent of Hacky Sack Crack.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 23, 2010 - 08:55am PT
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Wow, good stuff, David!!!
f*#king classic, actually.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 23, 2010 - 10:07am PT
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Very nice shots. I need to dry the sweat off my keyboard.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jan 23, 2010 - 11:43am PT
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Hey dave, I've never met you but I definatley have enjoyed your routes. Omega race wasit ever finished? I remember trying that rig and failing off the super thin slab. Lots of new bolts in the area, anyone thinking of finishing omege race or is it complete?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jan 23, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
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Dave,
You guys look TOO much alike in the above photo!
Great stuff.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Jan 23, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
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Hey Dave,
Great photos. Gotta love the lycra! Never heard the story about the trip to jail from Blade Runner...Hope all is well.
Elliott
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jan 23, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
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Toping out of Mr. Toads that way was really bad. When Kris Solem and I did it we made that mistake but never turned back. We called it the Grim Traverse and it was 2 pitches of wet, rotten, crappy pro climbing before we got around the end of that roof.
Thanks for posting up and thanks for putting up some of my favorite routes in the Meadows.
Jan McCollum
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 23, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
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Paul,
> Omega race wasit ever finished?
Omega Race was finished.
It's Blade Runner which had 5 pitches done and was not finished by Dave and Rob.
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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Jan 23, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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Omega Race is finished, two pitch route. Beyond that is rotten low angle rock. Vapor Lock was actually not really finished. Hard to remember if we did get a second pitch done on that route. Maybe someone out there knows more.
As promised, here is my hand sketched topo of Dead Ranger et al. I always refered to it as R&D cliff. Don't seem to have any photos of any of the routes, maybe the Dude has some. Dead Ranger and NWO have some really nice steep peanut climbing with moderately good protection.
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fearless second
Social climber
Chico, CA
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Sep 11, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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In celebration of all things thin and slabby, I would love to see some pics of the FA's on bald rock dome. Cheers to that!
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Sep 11, 2010 - 01:36am PT
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Those were great days...
Hey Dave, is Rob's dad the Settlemeyer in Nevada who's running for election?
I remember his dad was (is still?) a judge.
Cheers,
DD
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
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Sep 11, 2010 - 02:16am PT
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EXCELLENT THREAD and wonderful photos. I honor all of you that held to high ethics of stance drilling and leading routes from the bottom up instead of using other means. Let's see some more pics and hear more stories!
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Sep 11, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
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these two guys raised the bar in that era..
it takes calves of steel and a steady nerve to drill routes like that.
A lost art indeed b todays generation..
drill on..
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Sep 11, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
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Sick!
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