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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 31, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
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Rob Settlemeyer and Dave Caunt must have been addicted to thin edges and smearing on gold/orange polish. They had it dialed. I can’t believe what these guys were able to drill from… it is so far beyond me… They must have been masters of stance drilling, yet when it comes to Tuolumne, they are not always the ones that you hear about. I’ve just been on a couple of their routes on Hammer Dome, but have eyed a few others, and Bob has climbed several of their routes and just raves about these guys. Bob and I replaced the old bolts on Barbary Coast and Murder by Numbers this past October – photo TR here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1048207/Hammer_Dome_Bolt_Replacement_Tuolumne_Meadows
Dave Caunt posted on the Stance Drilling thread a while ago; maybe he is still around. I’d like to hear about these guys and their routes! Which of their routes have any of you climbed? Ever watch ‘em putting a route up? Got any stories or photos to share? I know that some of you guys here (Al Dude, Shipoopi, etc…) were involved in some of these routes. I bet there’s some good stuff out there, waiting to be told… Let’s see some cool photos!!!
According to the FA index in the most recent Falkenstein (Falcon) guide, Settlemeyer and Caunt have put up the following kick-ass routes in Tuolumne Meadows, along with some other climbers:
Stately Pleasure Dome – East
 Daddy’s Little Girl 5.10d, Rob Settlemeyer and Dave Caunt, 6/85
Full Metal German 5.11c, Dave Caunt and Rob Settlemeyer, 11/90
The Shark
Mallet Head 5.11a, Dave Caunt and Rob Settlemeyer, 10/90
Mountaineer’s Dome
Paris Is Burning 5.11b, Rob Settlemeyer and Dave Caunt, 7/84
Low Profile Dome
Orange Man 5.10c, Dave Caunt, et al, 1990s
Hammer Dome
Barbary Coast 5.11a, Rob Settlemeyer, et al, 7/81
Murder By Numbers 5.11d, Rob Settlemeyer and Dave Caunt, 6/84
Tin Pan Alley 5.11c, Rob Settlemeyer and Dave Caunt, 7/84
Shadow of Doubt 5.10c, Rob Settlemeyer, et al, 9/81
Daff Dome – South Flank
Tips Ahoy 5.11a, Rob Settlemeyer, et al, 6/80
Central Cottage Dome – North Face
Rugburn 5.10a, Al Swanson, Rob Oravetz, and David Caunt, 93
Dead Ranger 5.11d, Rob Oravetz, David Caunt, and Al Swanson, 8/93
New World Order 5.11d, Rob Oravetz and David Caunt, 9/93
Sex on the Flag 5.12a, Rob Oravetz and David Caunt, 8/93
Far Right 5.11a, Rob Oravetz and David Caunt, 8/93
Driller Elite 5.11d, Al Swanson and David Caunt, 93
Power Cliff
Radar Detector 5.12a, Dave Caunt, (Brad?) Watson, and John Piera, early 90s
Mariuolumne Dome – North Wall
Razor Back 5.10d, Dave Caunt and Charlie Hedly, 7/85
Medlicott Dome – North End
Omega Race 5.11c, Rob Settlemeyer and Dave Caunt, 8/84
Vapor Lock 5.11c, Rob Settlemeyer and Dave Caunt, 8/86
Medlicott Dome – Middling/Coming Area
Fight the Power 5.11c, Dave Caunt and Rob Settlemeyer, 91
Medlicott Dome – Center West
Dazed and Confused 5.11, Dave Caunt and Scott Burk, 8/85
Medlicott Dome – West
Slider-Banger 5.11d, Steve Schneider and Dave Caunt, 7/86
Living in Sin 5.12a, Dave Caunt and Jeff Schoen, 8/81
Dude Looks Like a Lady 5.11a, Dave Caunt and Brad Watson, 9/91
Bogey Meets Mr. Porcupine 5.13b, Steve Schneider, Dave Caunt, and Alan Nelson, 7/89
Shell Shock 5.11c, Rob Settlemeyer and Dave Caunt, 6/89
Drinking Buddies 5.10c, Steve Schneider and Dave Caunt, 6/89
Black Dahlia 5.12c, Steve Schneider and Dave Caunt, 6/89
Guy Takes a Bomma Gutsa 5.11c, Steve Schneider and Dave Caunt, 6/89
Dozier Dome
Angelic Upstart 5.11a, Rob Settlemeyer and Dave Caunt, 7/86
Pywiack Dome
Afternoon Fix 5.11b, Dave Caunt and Rob Settlemeyer, 9/91
Tenaya Peak Wall
Lakeshore Boulevard 5.10c, Dave Caunt and Eric Mayo, 8/85
Chimbote 5.11b Steve Schneider, Dave Caunt, and Rob Oravetz, 8/85
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Dec 31, 2009 - 11:21pm PT
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Daddy's Little Girl is one of the best one-pitch routes on Stately Pleasure Dome. Starts out with a difficult mantel and finishes with some interesting friction.
Bruce
ps- stance drilling is where it's at.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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hey, i know those guys, and hell, rob oravetz is my roomate. rob settlemeyer taught me hows to stance drill on bald rock dome during my school daze. Stan miller, paul gagner, eric mayo and rick harlin round out the crew. i think dave caunt's best route is dead rangers. man, there should be more of those.
there was one route of caunt's i b acked off of...at the base of el cap, rock neurotic i think it is called. i got up to the first bolt, and then man, you really got to go for it from there. i couldn't commit and never returned. sorry, don't have any slides scanned. maybe i should do some old school slideshows, haven't done that for years. shipoopoi
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Right On - fellow Defenders Of The Faith. Shell Shock is a dandy and Omega Race - fantastic! Got the second ascent of Murder By Numbers w/Bruce Morris and took a 40 footer off Paris is Burning w/Bill Price. Dave also did a bang up job on the first pitch (11c) of The SS. SKOAL !!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Caunt was way keen on that stuff: w/Rob also enthusiastic & kinda admirably low tone.
I have one slide of him in action BITD,
Maybe some chance that it is from the FA of that Dozier Dome route.
Nothing special photo-wise; I'll bookmark this thread & bump when I find it down the line....
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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You want to see a heck of an adventure in Orange, go do Mother Lode on Marmot. Schneider and Oravetz I think. Needs new bolts, but if you love the orange, you gotta go do that one. Only 10b but you can up the ante a ton by going straight up from the second to last bolt, instead of keeping on veering right. Long stretch of pure orange without even little chips forming edges.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Hey B, I changed the strings on the Ibanez, My house 2:30 Sat, Call John to verify we're back from the installation, Later.
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john bald
climber
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My hat's off to these guys! Always beautiful lines on the best polish. Was in slab heaven when I found their routes outside of Chico.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2010 - 01:47pm PT
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Jeeze… I do have a cell phone and I do check my email… Talk about thread drift…
Dave’s post on the Stance Drilling thread, found here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=492354&msg=835228#msg835228
“Stance drilling by hand on first ascents was the only way to do it, back in the day. Drilling quarter inchers in hard granite was not just hard work but would get the adrenaline going like nothing else.
My vote for the hardest stance drill that I know of was Rob Settlemire's first bolt on Tips Ahoy at south flank of Daff Dome. He literally tore his fingertips apart drilling that bolt.
Sometimes, as I liked to do, run it out to avoid drilling from hideous stances. But that sort of backfired when I went to drill the fourth bolt on Tin Pan Alley at Hammer dome. Looking at a potential 40 footer on a steep smooth slab, had no choice but to stop and drill from a slimy smear hold.
Rock Neurotic at base of El Cap is another sick like route.
Once the bosch became popular in the late eighties, it seemed the art of hand drilling on stance was destined for forums like this.”
More???
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dcaunt
Sport climber
Chico, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 03:08am PT
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Wow. It took me a while to get logged in, but now I'm in. And I gotta say, I am really honored to hear what you guys are saying about mine and Settlemeyer's routes. Never thought anybody gave a sh#t about our slab routes. I do know one thing, putting up those routes was the best part of my life and I will always cherish those moments. The early to mid eighties was a time of strict ethics as I always thought, and if you weren't drilling bolts on lead on stance then the route wasn't worthy. I finally decided it was ok to use hooks for the steeper stuff only after seeing that Bachar did.
Eventually started using the bosch but only because Bachar was using them.
I got lots of photos of first ascents but its getting late so I will leave you with a couple to look at. I'll post again soon, now that I know how to log in. Thanks Minerals for doing all that bolt replacement on Hammer Dome. Funny thing, I was just at that Dome this October myself reminiscing about the good ol days. Didn't do any climbing tho, that stuff is too damn hard and run out for me these days.
[photo[photoid=142213]id=142212][photoid=142215]Asta
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 03:27am PT
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Dave,
welcome and thanks for all the great photos. Please post more. Agreed about drilling on stance and I think it is still appropriate today (hooks included).
Bruce
ps - Too bad the current generation equates stance drilling with unsafe routes.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 03:42am PT
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This makes sifting through the drivel so worthwhile!
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Jan 22, 2010 - 10:44am PT
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And that... young gymrats... is how it is done!
Nice photos and true commitment to style, ethics and owning a sac!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 22, 2010 - 11:54am PT
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Whoa! This is turning into a great thread. Getting images out like the ones Dave posted is fabulous. The stories are even better.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
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I gotta say that those routes on Middle Cottage Dome are some of the best knobbing in Tuolumne. Hard, sustained, real cruxes, and well bolted. We have been working on climbing all of them the last couple summers. We still haven't got a clean ascent of the 12a (one fall) but will next year. It's too bad that these aren't done more often, if they ever had the lichen cleaned off they would be even more special.
And the routes with Schneider - Shipoopi and Slider Banger - could there be two routes more different and more the same at the same time?! Great lines, one for everyone and one for the few willing and able to put in some serious air time. Grigsby and I were on Pretty in Pink Point one day watching a couple take increasingly huge whippers off Slider Banger until they were finally so battered that they came down. We talked to them and they thought they were on Shipoopi! They were in for a very pleasant surprise when they went back the next day.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jan 22, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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Holy shizzle!
Welcome Dave!
Wow, a real thread, about the real thing....finally!
Don't be shy about bustin' out old shots from back in the day. Hell, we all do it. Sometimes it's all we got!
It's a treat to hear you say that stuff is too hard and run out for you these days. Sometimes it's nice to hear that we're not alone in our weakness....
IhatePlastic, THAT my friend is a killer post!
And that... young gymrats... is how it is done!
Nice photos and true commitment to style, ethics and owning a sac!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 22, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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cool stuff!
I've tried some of Dave's routes on Skyline Blvd in the Bay Area. Those Tuolumne routes sound awesome (and hard!)
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2010 - 02:19pm PT
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Woohoo! And I thought this thread was destined to the dark depths of the Supertopo Dungeon!
Awesome! Thank you for posting, Dave! I look forward to seeing more of your photos. Yeah, that’s some badass history, all right!!! You guys deserve credit for putting these great routes up in proud style. I just wish I could climb a little harder so that I could enjoy more of them. As far as the bolt replacement at Hammer Dome, it was something that needed to be done. Your routes shouldn’t disappear into obscurity – they are too good and more people should climb them!
Yup, there’s that second stance on Murder By Numbers… I thought you guys placed that bolt from a stance but it was tough to see the stance! Whew! Very impressive!!! The first pitch of Barbary Coast is listed as 5.10b in the book but… man, that sure felt hard for 10b, and I didn’t even lead it! That mantle to the belay… whoa! I’m sure your routes will stand the test of time and will still be sick, long into the future. Thanks for your contributions to Yosemite climbing, Dave! Slab climbing is not dead… slab climbing RULES!!!
I hope Bob gets a chance to see this thread. He will be psyched to see those photos! He made a comment at one point, saying that you guys must have been Olympic-caliber athletes.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jan 22, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
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Shadow of a Doubt on Hammer is great. Have the bolts on the second pitch been replaced? Does anyone do the second pitch anymore?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jan 22, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
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Bump for a climbing thread....
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Jan 22, 2010 - 09:47pm PT
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Bump for drilling while slipping/n/sliding!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 10:00pm PT
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Great photos, Dave - thanks for sharing.
Rock Neurotic looks dang steep for a slab, and of course it's pretty slick there....
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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Jan 22, 2010 - 10:06pm PT
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Ok. I was able to dig up some more photos from the archives, although I still can't find my Hammer Dome first ascent pics. Also I am getting a little fuzzy on the names of some routes so any help you can give me would be appreciated. Will try to post more pics if you like these ones.
I will work on finding more drilling shots, I know that's what you want to see, but for now here's some Meadows slab climbing in the eighties.
For the record, the stuff I did over by Dead Ranger was my last hurrah, all drilled on lead using hooks or stance, but boy what a find that rock was, totally virgin when me and Oravetz started. I still have the hand drawn topo for that cliff, will post it after I scan it.
Another for the record, Omega Race is my pride and joy, what I consider to be my finest route of all routes in my opinion. Two pitches of pure gold with practically 5.11 moves between every bolt. The first pitch has a difficult mantle to get into the belay, and I made sure no one could clip the anchors before doing the move, hahaha. The second pitch on that route has six or seven bolts and is a full 165 feet long, ending on a beautiful ledge. Just be sure to take a number 4 stopper to protect the crux at the top, ask Steve about that one.
Hope you guys enjoy the pics.
Next pics are in the Valley of Settlemeyer and mine last route together, called Blade Runner. Long story about this one. Got thrown in jail because of this route, and not because of the bosch. If Rob didn't bail me out of jail it may never have been done. We did about 5 pitches on this then got snowed off and never returned to finish it. It was getting into aid land anyway by then.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
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Awesome!!! Thanks, Dave! Great stuff!
Was swilling usually part of the pre-drilling ritual? Classic…
Blade Runner…? Ah, I didn’t know that was one of your routes as well (no guidebooks handy). Klaus and I climbed part of that route, while working on a new project over there that eventually joined Rainbow to the tourist railing at the summit. Were you guys trying for an all free route to the summit? Or just a route up the lower slab?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jan 23, 2010 - 12:16am PT
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Keep those photos coming!!
Another for the record, Omega Race is my pride and joy, what I consider to be my finest route of all routes in my opinion.
You should be pysched to know that we replaced all the bolts on Omega Race in 2003. Brandon Lampley and I replaced the top anchor plus the top pro bolt, and Roger Brown replaced everything else. Roger also replaced Vapor Lock, although I don't remember if he replaced the top bolt (which was the only 5/16" buttonhead, and I think it also had a stainless SMC hanger).
So if anyone wants to check out Omega Race...old bolts are no excuse!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 23, 2010 - 12:32am PT
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Dave, did you go to davis in the mid 90's? I think I might have known you there.
I was a wee lad working for OA. Guiding- Ha! Didn't really even know how to climb, but when you're 18, it seems like a good idea to lead people dumber than you are up routes in the Valley.
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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Jan 23, 2010 - 02:32am PT
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Nope, did not ever go to Davis, just Chico and the Bay Area.
Hey Greg, Brandon and Roger,
Thank you for replacing those old quarter inchers on Omega Race. Hope they did not come out too easy. I have a couple of shots of the first ascent of Omega Race here.
I have some old Bald Rock (Chico area) shots I'll post after I get them scanned. These ones go way back, including the first ascent of Hacky Sack Crack.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 23, 2010 - 08:55am PT
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Wow, good stuff, David!!!
f*#king classic, actually.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 23, 2010 - 10:07am PT
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Very nice shots. I need to dry the sweat off my keyboard.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jan 23, 2010 - 11:43am PT
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Hey dave, I've never met you but I definatley have enjoyed your routes. Omega race wasit ever finished? I remember trying that rig and failing off the super thin slab. Lots of new bolts in the area, anyone thinking of finishing omege race or is it complete?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jan 23, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
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Dave,
You guys look TOO much alike in the above photo!
Great stuff.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Jan 23, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
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Hey Dave,
Great photos. Gotta love the lycra! Never heard the story about the trip to jail from Blade Runner...Hope all is well.
Elliott
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Jan 23, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
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Toping out of Mr. Toads that way was really bad. When Kris Solem and I did it we made that mistake but never turned back. We called it the Grim Traverse and it was 2 pitches of wet, rotten, crappy pro climbing before we got around the end of that roof.
Thanks for posting up and thanks for putting up some of my favorite routes in the Meadows.
Jan McCollum
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 23, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
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Paul,
> Omega race wasit ever finished?
Omega Race was finished.
It's Blade Runner which had 5 pitches done and was not finished by Dave and Rob.
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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Jan 23, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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Omega Race is finished, two pitch route. Beyond that is rotten low angle rock. Vapor Lock was actually not really finished. Hard to remember if we did get a second pitch done on that route. Maybe someone out there knows more.
As promised, here is my hand sketched topo of Dead Ranger et al. I always refered to it as R&D cliff. Don't seem to have any photos of any of the routes, maybe the Dude has some. Dead Ranger and NWO have some really nice steep peanut climbing with moderately good protection.
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fearless second
Social climber
Chico, CA
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Sep 11, 2010 - 01:09am PT
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In celebration of all things thin and slabby, I would love to see some pics of the FA's on bald rock dome. Cheers to that!
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Sep 11, 2010 - 01:36am PT
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Those were great days...
Hey Dave, is Rob's dad the Settlemeyer in Nevada who's running for election?
I remember his dad was (is still?) a judge.
Cheers,
DD
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
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Sep 11, 2010 - 02:16am PT
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EXCELLENT THREAD and wonderful photos. I honor all of you that held to high ethics of stance drilling and leading routes from the bottom up instead of using other means. Let's see some more pics and hear more stories!
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Sep 11, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
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these two guys raised the bar in that era..
it takes calves of steel and a steady nerve to drill routes like that.
A lost art indeed b todays generation..
drill on..
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Sep 11, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
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Sick!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 12, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
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Rock Neurotic (base of El Capitan, down and left from the start of Mescalito)
FYI, Roger Brown replaced the bolts on Rock Neurotic this summer, after I led a pitch on New Dawn and tensioned down and left to reach its top anchors.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Sep 13, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
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killer thread- bump it
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Sep 13, 2010 - 02:30pm PT
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wow, thanks for bumping this, i had not seen all those shots by DC, thanks dave.
so, i always got psyched to on sight my buddies new routes. was successful on all of caunt/settlemeyer routes till i broke a hold near the top of shellshock on medlicott and whipped. then i got on rock neurotic, a little later in life, when my head had already gone to mush on big runouts. i had to back off, just couldn't feel good about going for that second bolt. a badass runouit by caunt for sure. shipoopoi
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 18, 2016 - 02:23pm PT
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Dave Caunt leading, Rob Settlemeyer belaying.
Looks like just another day at the office.
"Hey Rob, should we finish this thing today or just head to Lake Tenaya for cocktails?"
Maybe the first ascent of Angelic Upstart, Dozier Dome, 5.11a, Rob Settlemeyer and Dave Caunt, 7/86
If I have the ID right, then I would've been climbing Tune Up that day, further to the right.
Or is that Dozier Dome in the image there just below Medlicott?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 18, 2016 - 03:40pm PT
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good thread
good thread bump Tar!
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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Roy you got it right, Angelic Upstart on Dozier Dome, circa 1986??
I thought I had a shot of you, but all I could find in my archives was this bouldering shot at deadman's.
Can you name everyone in the pic?
How bout the second shot?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 10, 2016 - 07:24am PT
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Dave,
In the first shot, climbing, is Kurt Smith in tube socks.
That might be me in shorts, a Stetson fedora, malt liquor in hand.
*** or a Hatchett Bro?
Second shot: Lydia Paniker(sp) a.k.a. The Pocket Russian, on the ground.
Not sure of the climber.
Fun stuff!
Keep breaking them out!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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May 10, 2016 - 10:26am PT
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Roy, we ran into Lydia a few years ago in Tuolumne. She was still climbing hard and was working on getting up Peace with her husband Peter.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 04:58pm PT
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Hello Dave Caunt, it's nice to see this thread resurface.
You probably don't remember me, but I used to enjoy running into you in the Bay area and the Meadows. You were always a nice and friendly person. The last time I remember seeing you was at some new routes you were putting up on Medlicott ( late 80s early 90s?). I think Al was there. Can't remember who I was with but you asked us to climb two of the new routes to say what we thought the grade was. Don't know which of your routes they were but I do remember they sure were nice.
Take care, Phyllis
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 10:47pm PT
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Roy you got it. The Kid and you, and I was hoping you could tell me who was on top.
The second shot is of Werner in a wide hand to fist crack, what else of course. All this great overhanging pocket climbing and Werner does the cracks.
Phyllis, thanks for the kind words, I am sure I would know who you are if I saw you again, maybe. You might not recognize me tho.
Here's a couple more random pics from the archives.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 10, 2016 - 11:33pm PT
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Great re-thread!
thanks for the pics. reminds me to get over to deadmans soon:)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 11, 2016 - 05:01am PT
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First random photo is Bob Kamps!
...................................................................
Just spoke with Kurt: he says the climbers watching from on top are Mike Lechlinski and Dave Yerian.
I can't say for sure. But, the hair color is correct. It would be Mike on the left and Dave on the right.
I was there with Mike and Dave and Kurt, likely 1985.
Damn, that thing is BIG!
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