2010 Mt. Woodson Shindig / 1986 - 90 Reunion! (cont.)

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illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 16, 2009 - 05:33am PT
This thread is continued from: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1034716&tn=80

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 05:56am PT
This should be better/cooler (temp) than the last! The date is set: March 19, 20, 21, 2010 up at Mt. Woodson. Come one, come all, young and old, local and far off. Yet, also, looking for those that attended the last shindig in '07 and those that attended the contest in 1986 and 1990! This should be a historic event for Woodson's history and a chance for the young and old to come together and enjoy what we all can't seem to get enough of! Plans include: guest appearances, both from the past and present, product giveaways and booths, along with post climb slideshows and party over a three day weekend!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 06:03am PT
...and the list continues to grow:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. Brad aka Beehay
3. Porkchop_express
4. Bob aka BVB
5. mungeclimber
6. ? Ed Hartouni
7. Klimmer
8. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X aka Mr. Woodson
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer)
12. F10
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37-38 Sonja aka s.d & Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. cont on next pg.------->
immanti

climber
Dec 16, 2009 - 08:19am PT
illusiondweller, if that was just a teaser I can't imagine what awaits. It sounds like it will be a lot of fun.

Hey Ron, I should be so lucky. We'll see, but thanks for the kind offer my friend!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
should I add u to the list immanti or ?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 16, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
what was wrong with the old thread?

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
Nothing munge just up too late and made the decision to correct the title and add some more info to the description. Mr. Woodson turned out to be pretty funny after all!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
This link has some good footage of Right Longs Crack and Mother Superior...at night!

http://dreaminvertical.wordpress.com/2009/11/25/wide-wednesdays-at-mount-woodson/
gonzo chemist

climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
Dec 16, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
Count me in, as long as nothing gets in the way at the last minute. Sounds awesome! Any excuse to get down there!

-Nick


Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 16, 2009 - 04:36pm PT
aye, I know late nights.



Salad ripping it up
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
s.d.

climber
CA
Dec 16, 2009 - 05:14pm PT
Me too! Me 'n Nick (gonzo chemist) will be there. - Sonja
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 16, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
this thread need more pics. here's a face-melting claw-your-eyes-out nightmare flashback to the 80's lycrafest:

lie detector
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 16, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
the hand-foot match move on the south face of painted boulder:

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
Bob, grab the photo of Brad with his 1990 contest shirt on and post it for me back up there with your liedector photo...would you?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
Ron Kauk at the '86 contest on Lie Detector, 5.12 HARD!

Ron on A Nightmare On Elmstreet, 1986 (note the entrant number on his arm).

A 24 year old, your's truely, finishing up on Eric's Face on Robbin's Boulder, 1986 contest
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 16, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
no way illusiondweller. if i have to look at one more photo of brad, with his pasty skin, chicken-wing armflaps, saggy moobs, and dorian gray wrinkles, i'm gonna stroke out.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 05:40pm PT
Look closely and you can spot Tom Lindner looking at the camera, in his gray, down jacket and black leotards below and diagonally left of the white paint streak on Painted Boulder. Myself, next to Tom's right arm, in a blue jacket and pinkish baggy pants with Ken Klis to my right. I'm sure you all can pick out somebody that you recognize!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
Hey Bob, you can call me Gary. You probably don't remember me for I was just a tag along wishing I was as GUD as you guys back then. Now that I think back then, I remember running into Mike Paul at that Chimney Rock up there off the road to the right, before Big Grunt. He was working the problem down below, up the smooth arete on that boulder (11b) when I showed up and gave him some verbal encouragement. He popped off at that point, lowered to the ground and put his index finger in my chest and exclaimed, "You're next!" in which I obliged and got spanked as well. Like I didn't have a problem with pride! Got me where I am today and you wouldn't want to be there!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
1. ? Ron Kauk
2. Brad aka Beehay
3. Porkchop_express
4. Bob aka BVB
5. mungeclimber
6. ? Ed Hartouni
7. Klimmer
8. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X aka Mr. Woodson
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer)
12. F10
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37-38 Sonja aka s.d & Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immant
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. cont.------------------->
salad

climber
Escondido
Dec 16, 2009 - 09:21pm PT
holy sh#t now that ive been pic'd on this thread... guess i mite have to put the skateboard aside and start training.

altho that road mite be a fun ride!!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 16, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
longboard THAT pothole-ridden black ribbon of doom??

yer gonna die, jeff!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
salad...drop me an email. Need to run something by you.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
Bob, how's your art skills? We need someone to start a tshirt design...know anyone?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 16, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
Make sure most of those T's are XL, I might need two.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 16, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
Illusiondweller, did ya get my email on yer hotmail account? Hope to hear back from you.
Peace
salad

climber
Escondido
Dec 16, 2009 - 10:58pm PT
bob - mite be safer than me attempting problems at woodson given my lack of climbing over the last several years..

gary - email sent. call ne time.

if yer makin shirts - some of those drawings of bob's from back when are sick!!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 17, 2009 - 12:02am PT
robbin's crack

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 17, 2009 - 12:05am PT
alcoa

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 17, 2009 - 12:07am PT
the crew, all up on it back in tha muthafukkin' day. woodson OG's, yo.

BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Dec 17, 2009 - 12:24am PT
"no way illusiondweller. if i have to look at one more photo of brad, with his pasty skin, chicken-wing armflaps, saggy moobs, and dorian gray wrinkles, i'm gonna stroke out." BVB


This is gettin' good...

If "moobs" = man boobs, would that be something like this?...

Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.12 Boulder
Dec 17, 2009 - 12:28am PT
Well, it WAS gettin' good.
Whoa.
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
Dec 17, 2009 - 12:38am PT
bvb is making a very compelling case to kick out the jams in March.

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2009 - 01:50am PT
Bump
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 17, 2009 - 02:27am PT

anyone still have this?

no, not the rat tail that is apparently hanging in his office smelling, um, not so good... but the guide?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 17, 2009 - 02:30am PT

hard core local Salad back in the day before turning pro long board skater
Strider

Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
Dec 17, 2009 - 06:37am PT
I am in for a good climbing shindig if the stars all align correctly for me. Haven't made it to Woodson yet and have heard great things about it.

Hopefully see you guys there...

-n
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2009 - 07:00am PT
1. ? Ron Kauk
2. Brad aka Beehay
3. Porkchop_express
4. Bob aka BVB
5. mungeclimber
6. ? Ed Hartouni
7. Klimmer
8. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X aka Mr. Woodson
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer)
12. F10
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37-38 Sonja aka s.d & Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immant
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Strider
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2009 - 01:31am PT
The short yet grueling California Night http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jMwhJO_HxG8
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2009 - 02:33am PT
http://dreaminvertical.wordpress.com/2009/11/25/wide-wednesdays-at-mount-woodson/
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2009 - 04:25am PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. Brad aka Beehay
3. Porkchop_express
4. Bob aka BVB
5. mungeclimber
6. ? Ed Hartouni
7. Klimmer
8. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X aka Mr. Woodson
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. F10
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37-38 Nick & Sonja aka s.d & Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44-45. Steve Belford & Karen
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Powell
49.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 18, 2009 - 10:04am PT
Come on guys, let's get some more sign ups for this.....it will be another event NOT TO MISS! Gary has got some coool ideas on this and it is going to be another climber event to attend. Loads of fun, lots of friends and tons of great bouldering!
Bumping for Gary(illusiondweller)
Peace
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
Thanks for the offer Cragman. I don't see an email assoc with your username when I click on it. Mine is listed so drop me an email and we'll talk some more.
rbolton

Social climber
The home for...
Dec 18, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
Alright, Ron. It's time for that drink. I'm in.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 18, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
bolton, YER GONNA DIE!!
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 18, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
Yer on Bolton! We keep talking about it...should have come and got you this last summer in TM when Shipoopi showed up at my site....there was some booze going that night! I'll bring "something" to Woodson...will be a good "excuse" when I can't do any problems! Anyone else can tip back with us too! It'll be funnnnn!
Peace
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 19, 2009 - 01:16am PT

jaws
Mimi

climber
Dec 19, 2009 - 02:56am PT
Schweeeeeetttt!

Can't wait to cranken'!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 19, 2009 - 03:00am PT
40 odd is plenty fer a party.....
Mimi

climber
Dec 19, 2009 - 03:08am PT
Scary party!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 05:12am PT
That has to be the best photo of Jaws that I've seen in all the years I've been on Woodson! That's awsome! Where'd you dig that one up and when was it taken?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 05:33am PT
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 05:39am PT
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 05:44am PT
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 06:00am PT
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 06:04am PT
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2009 - 08:40am PT
bump
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Dec 19, 2009 - 11:47am PT
My desire to be there is great...my uncertainty about the possibility is also great. If there's any way to pull it off, I'll be there, too. Sounds like a blast!
Dimes

Social climber
Living in the past.
Dec 19, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
O.K. count me in and I'll drag Henny down for the entertainment value. Gary, can we get the gate open to get our electric "scooter" chairs through for the drive up? If not maybe some people can help us lift them over-hope so. Got my sights set on Deport Jonny, 10a on the Outside, Lemon Chiffon and then warm down on Lie Detector.

Powell
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 19, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
Cool Kevin, will be good to see you and Henny, bring yer camera(again). Uh illusiondweller says he's gonna have a handicap spot up front for me, yer welcome to share a ride in the "handicap vehicle" with me, maybe some of the young ens can push us up the road in our chairs. This is shaping up to be another great reunion, I'm soon to contact all the 70's and 80's group to join in(oh no, not another event to organize!)we should be strong in numbers and come from great distances, this will be FUN! We're working on making it an event not to miss.
Peace
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Dec 19, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
That's Paul Schwietzer (sp?) on Jaws. Where's he now?

Watusi never had that much hair.

Dimes, us Mtn Bike types can build a ramp over the gate, so's you old guys can launch the sucka'...

BH
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 01:08am PT
ooops!....kinda let the thread fall down on the list...sorry!

The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. Brad aka Beehay
3. Porkchop_express
4. Bob aka BVB
5. mungeclimber
6. ? Ed Hartouni
7. Klimmer
8. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X aka Mr. Woodson
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. F10
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37-38 Nick & Sonja aka s.d & Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44-45. ? Steve Belford & Karen
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Powell
49. Kevin
50. Henny
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 01:13am PT
Don't worry Dimes...that gate is permanently open now...all those locks have disappeared and no longer in use. That hill will put a load on those batteries though, but it'll be a nice coast down!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 20, 2009 - 01:15am PT
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 01:17am PT
That's classic Bob...sentimental a bit, sniff, sniff. Omg!...that Kinnaloa chalk bag!...I had that bag for the longest time, up and till I left it in the bathroom at Santee Boulders hanging on the hook inside the stall while I was takin' care of business back in '07! The names of these guys again, Bob? I recall the faces but that's it.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 20, 2009 - 01:17am PT
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 20, 2009 - 01:20am PT
the posse, circa 1968.

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 01:25am PT
'68 or 86? That gear looks pretty current to be '68...no?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 01:32am PT
What problem is "Deport Jonny" that Dimes mentioned?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 01:40am PT
This Paul Schweitzer Brad?

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 01:45am PT
Unless this is Schweitzer too...I've got it listed as Mike Paul on rc.com Brad. When I saw the shorts, no shirt and hair I thought of this picture. Same person?


Hey Brad, this photo even has an id as pauljaws.jpg and checkout the chalkbag, unless, again, this is Schweitzer in both photo's...

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 20, 2009 - 01:55am PT

grand central station
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 20, 2009 - 01:59am PT

big horn
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 20, 2009 - 02:01am PT

the cave
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 20, 2009 - 02:09am PT

some random crack
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 20, 2009 - 02:14am PT
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
Bump
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 20, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
Ed, cue the video of Russ telling the story of Jaws and the 'bowling ball twins'


Actually, save it till the time is right, but this has made me think of that.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 20, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
Van Belle that last shot....is the guy bouldering that, or is there a rope involved???? High freeeking ball problem, not to mention the size of his balls if he is bouldering! Look forward to meeting you there..of course you WILL be there!
Peace
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
Ron...go to rockclimbing.com under Woodson and see the series of shots of "that guy" aka Rick Piggot, leading Phd. In a nutshell, that picture was taken just before Rick to the 40 footer, ripping the pieces below him and grounded with Lydia Pankiher aka "The Pocket Russian", belaying. Astonishingly, Rick walked away from this! He returned later to that high-point and placed a bolt(s) on hooks to protect the upper section, crazy!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. Brad aka Beehay
3. Porkchop_express
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. mungeclimber
6. ? Ed Hartouni
7. Klimmer
8. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X aka Mr. Woodson
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. F10
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44-45. ? Steve Belford & Karen
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Powell
49. Kevin
50. Darrell aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
Bump
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
Bump
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 20, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
I believe that "Deport Jonny" is also known as "Johnny Go Home". Either way the reference is directed at that Brit Woodward. Personally, I prefer the Deport Jonny name. Following is a picture of the problem (just left of the tree). I think it's just across the road and slightly downhill from some bolted faces and an OW called Big Grunt? Eppy's B-day would be on the other side of the boulder.


Maybe the locals can set the record straight on what the problem is currently called?

BTW - How often does the Woodward problem on the left arete of the TV Screen get done?
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 20, 2009 - 10:13pm PT
I kinda like Deport Jonny, don't think they can deport him anymore, would be good to get him out for the event, think I'll give 'im a call, he might want some warm weather by March.
Peace
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 20, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
Better put me down too......but what if I can't make it up the hill to the climbs?......
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 20, 2009 - 11:08pm PT
yeah todd, i'm kinda worried about getting spent on that hike up. used to pretty much run to the top nonstop and then fire off problems on the way down, but i'm woefully out of shape right now.

BTW - How often does the Woodward problem on the left arete of the TV Screen get done?

pretty much never, darrel. i've never seen chalk on it, ever. i think most folks don't even know it's there.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
I never knew Deport Jonny existed...imagine that. I still share the story of Woodward estabisjing the Woodward Arete on the TV Screen boulder. I've never seen chalk on it nor seen anyone try it since 1981 when I started climbing. It looks impossible to start.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2009 - 11:45pm PT
Hey Bob, I thought you were perpetually swole?
s.d.

climber
CA
Dec 20, 2009 - 11:52pm PT
Woodson bump!
I went out to Woodson last Thursday with Brad (aka Gobi) and today with Nick (aka gonzo chemist). Perfect weather was to be had on both days and there was no better time to get honed on some of the finest cracks in the area. We climbed classics Crucible, Jaws, Bat crack, Razor's edge among others and vow to return to complete Seminar wall and Right Long's crack.

Sonja
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 21, 2009 - 12:01am PT
A quick note - Woodward spells his first name Jonny. No 'h' in it. Brits - always gotta be different.

Edit: Swole is fitting. I have a suspicion that all this talk of being out of shape and the likes is just people getting a head start on jockying their sandbags into position.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 12:38am PT
s.d., Nick, Brad...hope you are out spreading the word on this shindig to all the younger generation too! As much as us "back in the day" guys want it to be about us, it's really not, but it's about you, our kids really, and watching the X-Gen take what we established to the next level. I haven't revealed my full vision for this gig yet but maybe now is the time since I've seen your motivating photos and realize now who I am talking to.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 01:23am PT
Bump
blr

climber
socal
Dec 21, 2009 - 02:08am PT
If anyone is free this week and wants to play on Woodson... I'm itchin'
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 02:41am PT
blr...I'm free Tues, Thurs, and possibly Saturday. I'm out of Spring Valley. Drop me an email by clicking on my username. I'm ready!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 02:48am PT
Hey Nick...looks like you're standing on the "Captains Chair" on The Cave problem. Eliminate that from the route completely and you'll have a more sustained and flowing line without taking the rest!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 02:55am PT
Darrel "Henny" aka Darrell Hensel?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 04:49am PT
bump
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 04:50am PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. Brad aka Beehay
3. Porkchop_express
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. mungeclimber
6. ? Ed Hartouni
7. Klimmer
8. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X aka Mr. Woodson
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. F10
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44-45. ? Steve Belford & Karen
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Powell
49. Kevin
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 21, 2009 - 08:50am PT
Hey Riley, let's go do some Wydes!
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 21, 2009 - 09:43am PT
Yep, Henny is Hensel
Peace
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Diego
Dec 21, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
I tried the center problem on the TV screen recently. Tried being the key word. I couldn't touch the left side.
I think Dan Beall has done "Move Over Junior" on the Seminar Wall.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 21, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
center problem on the TV screen

the working title for this problem was "emergency broadcast system" if i recall correctly. did anybody ever do it?
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 21, 2009 - 02:35pm PT
Ah yes, the Emergency Broadcast System. I know a couple of guys that have tried it recently. I don't know of anyone who has done it, but then I'm not the one to ask. As much as I would like to be a Woodson local I can't and never could claim that.

I can still see KP waving desperately at the top as he departed, literally only inches away. Too bad he's a one shot kind of guy. That problem was all but done if he'd kept it together for one more move.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 21, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
if that problem was at roubidoux and you guys had the opportunity to work it and wire it, you'da been hucking laps in tennies.

just sayin'.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Dec 21, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
I'll try to spread the word about this thing to more of the younger crowd if you'd like them to join Illusiondweller. Elliot, yes DB has done Move Over Junior. It's a cool route. I tried it once by headlamp, but there was one move I couldn't get. I'm not sure how much work it would take. It's HARD.

Josh
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Dec 21, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
Out of the loop and missed this Thread. Thanks Jaybro for bringing it to my attention. Even tho we were pre 1986 Woodson, any of our old and my new friends are welcome to camp out at Casa Leichtfuss....just email me.

Joyeux Noel, lynne
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 06:03pm PT
"working title" hmmmmm...I've worked this as well and always wanted to call it Vertical Hold if (key word) I ever did succeed! Probably not though for I'm not consistent enough and this was pre Dan's gym in Mira Mesa! An idea for that someone that ticks it.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
Spread the word Josh and have them come to this site to put their name on the list...thanks.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 21, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
Put Leichtfuss on the list, she'll be there for sure, her husband Dan was a Woodson regular and could he crank like no one else!
Peace
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
Choo, choo!


You know, if you stare at Bob's face long enough, it almost appears if his head is on backwards...or is it attached to his chest?! Am I the only one?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 11:47pm PT

"One of my first times soloing it from when I was 15 in '75. Cheers, MP."
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 21, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
I'll cogitate, Riley, but for now, do inverted sittups.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
I commented on this photo on rc.com:

"Hey Mike...it looks like you're finger-stacking above the hand jam pocket just below. Please don't tell me you did that just to make it a bit harder! Then again, it wouldn't surprise me... darn kids!"

ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 22, 2009 - 12:07am PT
Mike Paul YA GOTTA COME DOWN FOR THIS ONE!!!!! You can hang at my place bro, it would be great to see you and spend some time with you. I'm remembering the times at the "ranch" in Del Mar! Remember them??????
Merry Christmas!
Peace
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 12:57am PT
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Dec 22, 2009 - 01:15am PT
Wow kind of cool trippy photo comparison! Back in the day I had a different sequence but BVB always had his... We both got up and ran to the next as this was always our warm-up...Bob will remember our "Big Wednesday" (we was just kids back then, in Bob's dad's car and cruisin' the rads!)
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Dec 22, 2009 - 01:22am PT
Hi as well Ron G!...I'm going to really try to be there this time as I think the warranty is up on my poor ass frame. It would be such an honor to vidy all your mugs once agin...
edit: Had to comment on how svelte B-Hey is looking in that shot above...Looks like "Stairway..." Even after he snubbed me with his P. Schweizer shot comment..."Watusi never had that much hair..." I did once...
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Dec 22, 2009 - 01:37am PT
I remember your hair Watusi :D I'll vouch for you. :D
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Dec 22, 2009 - 03:46am PT
Not really that much to remember Lynnie, but, Thanx:):)
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 22, 2009 - 08:40am PT
Yeah Mike I recognized that dome anywhere. I would be really nice to have you down for the event, Gary has some cool things going and he's trying to get old school and new school there.....a great idea to blend the two. That comment earlier about being outa shape...well I WON'T be able to walk the road in one haul, let alone do the problems we use to do, but it'll be be fun just the same. We NEED to be there, if just to rip off all of Shawns problems!
Peace
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 09:28am PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. Brad aka Beehay
3. Porkchop_express
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. mungeclimber
6. ? Ed Hartouni
7. Klimmer
8. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. F10
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44-45. ? Steve Belford & Karen
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Powell
49. Kevin
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (ClimbinCalifornia.com)
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 09:38am PT
Bump
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Dec 22, 2009 - 09:51am PT
So illusiondweller,

As the date gets closer email me and I'll do what I can to help. I can put up some out of towners at my casa especially if they don't mind camping in the yard or grove. It sounds totally fun, especially getting so many groups together.

I spent many, many afternoons and evenings with Dan after work traipsing around there. I regret being so terrified of heights back then. How I wish now I would have all that experience behind me. Oh, well...I have today. :D Peace, lynne
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 10:30am PT
Thanks for your help Lynne, I'm Gary down in Spring Valley, might be quicker for ya than illusiondweller. Drop me an email as well for I've tried leaving an email through this site before yet no response. Be sure and check your junkmail. Thanks.
pyrosis

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 22, 2009 - 10:37am PT
I'm in! Can't wait. Haven't climbed at Woodson since the late 90's. :)

-Tavis
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 22, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
OK, somebody inspire me by posting up some more pictures of the Lie Detector. Always did like that problem. I think there was one of bvb soloing (dang) it earlier, but I could use more. (pleeease, no more lycra! My eyes are still hurting from that - kinda makes it hard to see the problem.)

Places like Rubidoux have nothing, zero, zilch in comparison to Woodson for the cracks. THAT is one of the true beauties of Woodson, the wide variety of problem types. Not to mention the quantity and boulder size ranges, as in short problems, highballs, topropes, and even possible leads.

How much new stuff is being done there nowadays? There is just so much potential. Wish I lived close enough to hit the place reguarly, I'd be trying to ferret out new stuff like a psycho. Nothing like new problems to raise the motivation level.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 12:05am PT
Darrell,

Now, I can't speak for those who HAVE put up new stuff up there, but, I will occasionally hear and see photo's of new problems mostly shorter and with sit-starts from the "pad people") on Woodson proper, and will see new chalk on established boulders. Some are cool, new lines, others are contrived, ie; lines squeezing in between others. For the most part, the established lines still recycle newcomers and in my case, keep me returning to them over twenty eight years later! There are so many problems that I haven't done or will probably ever do that it's a lifetime place for me. There have been other areas of Mount Woodson that have been explored with new bouldering areas photographed and problems established. The southwest ridge of the peak south of Woodson, where the Mt. Everest boulder and K2 are, is currently being slowly developed and established, including trails, by a friend of mine. Even with this, you are right, there is so much more to be found and done!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 12:23am PT
As far as Lie Detector, honestly, I don't think there are too many photo's out there for it doesn't see too many repeats! The best I can do is this photo of Steve Belford Tr'ing the upper section back in the day, which we and others would popularly do by rapping down into the bowl, then climb the classic 5.10 finger crack (note: today, the top of this crack is frequently greased out by bat guano!).



Another of Ron Kauk during the '86 contest...


This is just hearsay but I remember hearing the story of Rick Piggot who was going to solo the line with a photographer present to document the feat. But, on the day of the ascent, the photographer didn't show...so Rick soloed it anyway, imagine that.

There were times when Rick would show up on climbs that we were already at, with a TR already established, suiting up, etc. Rick would have his Walkman on his hip with the Scorpions screaming, "Rock You Like a Hurricane" out his earphones, so loud that we could rock out as well. He would then methodically walk up, grab the rope and look back at us without saying a word, an obvious gesture to hold the rope off to the side and out of the way for him. After completing his chalking ritual, then leaning his head back to shake his long naturally kinky mane back out of the way, he would silently proceed to move up the route and blow us away! It was beautiful yet nerve-wracking watching Rick do this. As Troy Wold out of Ramona put it, "Rick is the Master!"
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 12:49am PT
Another funny story...

As a youngster in my early twenties, I recruited a, basically, non-climber friend of mine to belay me while I aided the bottom (A1) then lead the upper section of Lie Detector. As I topped out then turned to say, "Off belay" to my friend, an applause erupted from a group of senior citizens down of the road, who had stopped and decided to watch. I couldn't help but to say, "Thank you, thank you very much (in my best Elvis impersonation)."
seekthereason

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 23, 2009 - 01:39am PT
Gary,

sounds like a great time, I'm definitely going to be there. Thanks so much for planning it all!

-Jeff Gicklhorn
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Dec 23, 2009 - 03:32am PT
Everyone, great Pics. Gary I just emailed you. Hope you get it. Peace, Lynne
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 05:15am PT
Got it and responded, thanks Lynne.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Dec 23, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
I'm curious what's afoot to string this out to a three day affair, last time around we just had the one day on the hill and a good old time at Salad's.

Mark me down as "maybe"
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 23, 2009 - 02:42pm PT
yeah, even as a kid three days in a row at woodson was brutal. my fingers would be swollen, sore, and covered with gobis. i'm gonna make it up there on saturday but that'll probably be it. i was totally spent after the one-day shindig in 2007. sore like "whoa!"
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 23, 2009 - 03:00pm PT

Chriz bro, dropping in for a TR
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 23, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
Well I for one, will probably take three days just to get up the hill. Don't plan on doing many problems, but plan on doing a lot of catching up with old friends and makin' new ones. I think there's gonna be maybe a slide show, after climbing party-ing, maybe some off site boozin'(on site with Bolton) and who knows what else Gary can come up with....any ideas for him!
Peace

PS. Gary I bouldered there prior to '86, can we still come? I used this red book with hand drawn cover and routes. Nick Badyrka, Shawn Curtis and Mike Paul use to sandbag the schit outa me up there.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
Glad you asked guys....Here's what I was thinkin...

1. Mountain open (unofficially of course) at 0730 as people start to gather at the practice boulders at the bottom. Sign in, tshirts, announcements, etc. Sponsor booths/tables up at Painted Boulder switchback. Climb till 1630.

2. Caravan over to Vertical Hold for slideshow(s) from guest climbers (TBA).

3. Do it again on Saturday then post party over at Salad's house (or other venue to support the masses).

4. Return home, drive, flights, etc. on Sunday.


Don't climb yourselves out so you can do it again on Saturday! What do you think? Too much? I'm open for suggestions.

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. Brad aka Beehay
3. Porkchop_express
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. mungeclimber
6. ? Ed Hartouni
7. Klimmer
8. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. F10
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44-45. ? Steve Belford & Karen
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Powell
49. Kevin
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (ClimbinCalifornia.com)
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. ? Off White

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 23, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
Sign In?

Papers?

We don't need no stinkin papers!

;)
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
Got ya on as a maybe Off White.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
"Sign In" as in maybe a name tag so the young kids can hover and pull on your pant leg for a signature or smile. Van Belle already has a request to have someone's flag signed when they meet up! Shoot, if I can get Royal Robbins to show and hang out below Robbin's Crack I might even be pullin' on his pant leg! Bridwell gave an awesome show on his Great Trango Tower climb at Vertical Hold gym and Tom Frost gave a Lotus Flower Tower presentation in Long Beach back in the day. We're going to see if they can repeat one of these for us veterans plus a young "phenom" to show and do the same for the young kids!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Dec 23, 2009 - 03:52pm PT
So just to do as you asked, throw ideas out......

It looks like Friday would be the big day with the climbing, vendors etc. ? Is that right ?

What about Friday being a warm up day, including Vertical Hold. Saturday being the heavy duty climbing day with party at Salad's or my casa is open also. Sunday wind down and go home day.

Edit: Royal is an amazing man. He showed up in C4 for our Bachar Memorial in September without even being asked. All the international's, young and older alike in C4, were jazzed and astounded. :D
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
Like minds think alike Lynne! How many (maximum) can you support Lynne for post party? I'm tellin' you, if this thing comes together, those at Woodson are going to remember this!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Dec 23, 2009 - 04:04pm PT
I'm laughing here in my room in Belgium. Deja vu all over again.

Do you know at the very first ever, I believe, (someone correct me if I'm wrong) Woodson Bouldering Contest we had the post party at our home.

So it would be an honor to host it. But by all rights Salad has the first call. lynnie
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
Salad has been contacted and a concern has been expressed at the number of people that may actually show for this, this time. He, also, suggested a larger venue if need be. He says fifty is pretty much the max for his place so if your property can support a considerably larger number Lynne then we'll consider your place.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Dec 23, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
What about Dr. F, Craig Frye, did he climb at Woodson ? or Spencer. I know D. Nakahira did and Maria C. and R. Vogel. How bout G. Epperson, Mari, Mike L., Rob Raker, Johnny Woodward.....hey, if yo gonna invite the new ones might as well include some of the first great guns. :D
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
I have to head out to the climbing gym with my daughter for she is in town from Jersey and requesting it. Keep the thread up on the list for me someone, thanks!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Dec 23, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
I got family down on Coronado....I may try to make this. Never been to Woodson.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Dec 23, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
Personally, I think if you try and make a two day climbing event with booths & sponsors & hoopla it would be a wee bit over the top. I'd suggest just a Saturday event, and at least for me, the extra product circus is not particularly attractive. But hey, whatever floats your boat.

Someone should poke Karl Mueller, Ron Amick, & Jeff Almodovar and suggest they show up.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 23, 2009 - 04:53pm PT
Lynne, got ya covered on the guys from the past, I'll be calling/contacting a lot of people, trust me it's covered, BUT contact me if there is someone you think should be there...or give them an invite yerself, good excuse to call em up and talk with em!
Peace
The name tags are a gud thing, us oldies can't remember each other anyway!
s.d.

climber
CA
Dec 23, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
The list is becoming quite extensive! Thank you, illusiondweller, for putting this event together. If I can be of any help, please let me know.

Since it's the holiday season, here's a photo from last year of my younger brother next to the decorated pine at the top of Woodson near the cell towers.

Sonja
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Dec 23, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
Hey Ron,

Been meaning to contact you. Such Fun in Josh....thanks!! Your first lead in a while was indeed very well done....and a hand crack at that. And speaking of lead's, thanks for taking the lead in contacting many for this grate event.

We've had a couple weddings at our casa. Don't think having the event will be a problem. But will need to know a semi approx number to arrange for parking etc. If it's over say 125 it pro won't work. Onward and Merry Christmas, lynnie

Edit: Sonja, hi ! Maybe we can work together to help Gary pull this off. Love the pic of the tree and your bro....Feliz Navidad from Belgium So Cal :D
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Dec 23, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
Off White, agree. Plus right on with the names you mentioned ..... yeah, flashes from the past and way good senders. thanks, lynne

Bluey, dude, you're welcome to pitch a tent among the few avo trees I have left. Yo always take good care of lynnie. Now it's my turn. :D
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 23, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
Thanks for the pictures of the Lie Detector. I like that view of the upper crack in Mungeclimbers photo. Nice. bvb, I think you're holding out on me bro. A local such as yourself would have done that thing more times than could be counted. You must have more pictures laying around.

Ron - sandbags? At Woodson? Yeah, a dime a dozen. Some things never change.

Rats, I forgot Bolton was going to be there. Just when I thought it would be safe to show up. Now I need to decide if I really feel like risking it. Hey, I know, I'll throw KP to the wolfs and make a run for it while Bolton is distracted.
Tui

Boulder climber
SD
Dec 23, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
So I have this 5 page guide to woodson that has section 3 "the missing link, and other wonders" and "heart of the congo" written on it. The version I have is cut off on all sides of all 5 pages. Does anybody have the full version of this guide?

Also does anybody have any info/maps on all the stuff that is bolted between PhD and Vice Principals? There is a big wall with bolts up to for two lines. I also found one that looks like Driving South but has one big diamond shape pocket on it. Or does anybody have info/maps on the stuff that's below Fall Semester towards the Y Crack (I think that's what it's called). Any and all info and maps would be great. You can just email them if you don't want them posted online.

The Deerhorn Guide would be appreciated as well
Thanks.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Dec 23, 2009 - 07:35pm PT
You're a sweetheart, Lynne, we'll see what happens. This is all priliminary right now. It would be cool to camp on your turf though.
F10

Trad climber
e350
Dec 23, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
I spoke with Tom Scott tonight, he will be there

Add him to the list

James aka F10
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Dec 23, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
Who is this Tom Scott you speak of?



And who's the old greybeard with the glasses? Long sleeves covering "chicken wings", or track marks?
F10

Trad climber
e350
Dec 23, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
Looks like a much of posers

Tell Jeff to get Adrian out there
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Dec 23, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
One day is enough, any of you ol' f*&ks go out for secret training ahead of time, you will be deservedly trashed come the main event.

Saturday is the day, some of us have jobs.

I'm number two on the list, so listen to me fools.

Who is this Kauk guy, and why is he ahead of me?

How do you "reunite" with a twentysomething? (OK, it's a free country, they can despoil the environment with their presence if they wish.)

Contact me for tips on how to "win friends and influence people".

BH

GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 24, 2009 - 12:28am PT
Count me in!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 03:15am PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
3. Porkchop_express
4. ? Off White
5. mungeclimber
6. ? Ed Hartouni
7. Klimmer
8. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. James aka F10
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44-45. ? Steve Belford & Karen
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Powell
49. Kevin
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (ClimbinCalifornia.com)
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. Brad aka Beehay
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. Greg Epperson
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 03:24am PT
Beehay Brad, number 2? Look again old timer, I think you missed the "6" in front of the "2"! You have over two month's to get one Friday off of work. I know it's tough not being in charge for a day but I bet you could do it if you really tried. Otherwise, the door is open at a behavior modification program I attend on Friday nights at 7pm. As a matter of fact, I'll be there with my wife and child Christmas night. Can you make it? It's right here in Spring Valley. They always have good coffee. Need a ride? (I'm sure he thinks I'm kidding).
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 03:34am PT
This photo has made the front page of rc.com a few times...

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 03:48am PT
"Woodson, eighties, euro-trash, Retropulsion...", 5.12b

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 04:04am PT
I backed off this solo attempt back in the day. This is what I get for trying to repeat what I witnessed Rick Piggot make look easy one day!

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 02:56pm PT
bump
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 03:25pm PT
The number I have for Greg Epperson "has been disconnected or is no longer in service..." Anyone get ahold of him yet?
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 24, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
I'll get to him Gary!
Merry Christmas
Peace

Edit later in the day: Taken care of Gary! Count Eppi in!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
Bump
blr

climber
socal
Dec 24, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
Went for a little hike on Woodson this morning. Beautiful day! Anybody know what this is? It's about half way between Crucible and the Ogre. On the other side of this boulder is a right trending tips crack, about 25ft and 10+/.11-. I have no idea what it is called, and my batteries died so no pic.



bajaandy

climber
Escondido, CA
Dec 24, 2009 - 08:11pm PT
Well hell's bells. Guess I might just have to haul my butt up there for the shindig. Sounds like it might just turn into a real party.
bajaandy

climber
Escondido, CA
Dec 24, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
A sequence taken of yours truly BITD, mid 80's.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 10:23pm PT
Yeah, I see you were conforming like the rest of us Andy. When Boreal came out with those new "sticky" Fire's it really changed our confidence level and outlook on some climbs! I remember hearing of the rummor that when you took them out of the box, you could press the soles firmly together and they'd stick! Well, low and behold I tried it and sure enough! What an innovation for climbing!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
I'm racking my brain on that one blr...half way between the Crucible and the Ogre...on the left or right side of the trail heading out to the Ogre? Anyone?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 24, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. James aka F10
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44-45. ? Steve Belford & Karen
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Powell
49. Kevin
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (ClimbinCalifornia.com)
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. Brad aka Beehay
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Dec 24, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
Ha! Eppi's been trolling this thing since day one, AND, as one of his earliest subjects,largely responsible for his career, (you didn't see the shots?, "whadda ya mean you don't publish photos of 5.8's?", damned biased editors...), HE ain't comin' unless I am unconditionally restored to my rightfull position at #2. We will concede the #1 to this Mr. Kauk for the time being.
Behavior Modification?, I do BM every morning about six, I really don't see the problem...

BH
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 25, 2009 - 12:09am PT
i'm in san diego, peeps. gonna hit woodson on saturday and see if i still got it to go.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2009 - 12:20am PT
Geeze, Bob, what'd ya do, hop in the car and fire on back here last night? I'll join ya if all goes well. What time?
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Dec 25, 2009 - 12:30am PT
Bob, I might hit Santee tomorrow late morning for a bit...

Throw down a time for Woodson, and/or a cell #, I might need some secret training.

BH
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2009 - 12:35am PT
BM Brad, BM is what you need! Friday night 7pm! Hey, drop me a message and maybe catch a ride with you to Woodson? I'm coming up from Spring Valley.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Dec 25, 2009 - 12:47am PT
WTF?? bvb in San Diego????

Send in all reinforcements!!!!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 25, 2009 - 01:03am PT
drove in this afternoon. posting from the 'rents house. psyched to do some bouldering. afraid of what i'm gonna find out when i try to pull -- last time i bouldered was like in june or july. damn near broke my ankle in august and still walk with a limp. not sure if i'm fat or skinny -- arms like limp noodles and a wannabe pus gut. oh, the horror!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2009 - 02:45am PT
Bump
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2009 - 05:23am PT
Mike, u lost me. You're not comin'?
F10

Trad climber
e350
Dec 25, 2009 - 11:14am PT
I'm in SD for a few days and went to Santee yesterday afternoon,

The rock seemed sneaky clean, amazing what a little rain will do to that grease
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!


"And she brought forth her firstborn son, and wrapped him in swaddling clothes, and laid him in a manger; because there was no room for them in the inn.

 And there were in the same country shepherds abiding in the field, keeping watch over their flock by night.

 And, lo, the angel of the Lord came upon them, and the glory of the Lord shone round about them: and they were sore afraid.

 And the angel said unto them, Fear not: for, behold, I bring you good tidings of great joy, which shall be to all people.

 For unto you is born this day in the city of David a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord.

 And this shall be a sign unto you; Ye shall find the babe wrapped in swaddling clothes, lying in a manger.

 And suddenly there was with the angel a multitude of the heavenly host praising God, and saying,

 Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will toward men"
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
Bump
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 25, 2009 - 04:56pm PT
One day is enough, any of you ol' f*&ks go out for secret training ahead of time, you will be deservedly trashed come the main event.

Throw down a time for Woodson, and/or a cell #, I might need some secret training.

Ummmm... Anybody else find that sequence of comments odd?

Watusi/Mike - I think it's more about a bunch of people just getting together, at least I hope so. From the sounds of it the only competition is going to be trying to avoid being the last one up the hill.

The ? before Rick's (Piggot) name - Means he's been contacted, but isn't sure yet if he can make it?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
This is NOT a competition. A Shindig / Reunion and more!

I get conflicting / confusing info on who's coming and who might come. I really don't know if Rick is coming or if he's been contacted or not. I'm hoping he is! If someone could let me know I'll take the "?" away.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2009 - 09:01pm PT


bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 25, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
so i'm hitting woodson tommorrow if anyone wants to join. i'm gonna start with hear my train -- attempt it anyway -- then work my way up the hill for two or three hours. i'm probably gonna be booting up at the train by 11am or thereabouts.

so out of shape. this could get ugly...
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Dec 25, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
BVB, I'll be there.

Henny, nobody's supposed to be paying attention. I'm so busted.
(The secret training smack talk was actually aimed at the Friday of Shindig weekend. Any old F*#k who can do two full days there, back to back, will have my unconditional respect!)
Sounds like 'tusi was just up too late.

BH
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 26, 2009 - 12:25am PT
brad, i just shot you an email. let's trade cell #'s.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2009 - 03:16am PT
Just replied to your email Brad...I'll try real hard to see you up there at 1100!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2009 - 03:23am PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. James aka F10
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44-45. ? Steve Belford & Karen
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Powell
49. Kevin
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (ClimbinCalifornia.com)
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. Brad aka Beehay
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. - 72. John/Melissa
73. Dr. Sprock
74.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 26, 2009 - 09:32pm PT
Oh boy... The shoe doper. Some good stories behind that name. We'll certainly miss Dan.

BH - I'll buy that. Reading your first comment in the light of what you "meant" makes sense. But the choice of words "secret training" in both posts sure did open the door. Then again, I intend to come down there and get in some secret training of my own - hopefully there's enough time to get the hike up the road ruthlessly wired.

Some pictures from the excursion today would only be fitting.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
Now I've already forgotten the username of "John" that I met on Woodson today, that asked me to put his name on "The List". It was Chas (with an "s") and ? I'll use "John" until I remember or am told otherwise. Thanks guys for signing up and for your hospitality up on Woodson.

I think I pulled a sternum muscle, darn it and I didn't even climb hard today. Got suckered into "warming up" on Californina Night right off the bat. Although successful, I almost puked pulling over the top! Thanks John for your sandbag efforts and convincing me to do it instead ;-)
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
Dec 26, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
You're gonna need an ambulance standing by with that guest list.

henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 26, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
Johnny and Chas. Not sure if Johnny posts under an alias. Lurkers...
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Dec 26, 2009 - 11:03pm PT
RE: Today's excursion...

Just bvb and me (I hooked up with 'dweller after bvb left).

The results, "damn good thing it was secret".

No tic list or photos forthcoming, bvb was a fashion dissapointment anyway.

Brad
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2009 - 11:21pm PT
Darrell,

Johnny was bragging about you and your skills. "In a league of his own" I think he said.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
Cragman, I'm a semi-retired Paramedic / Navy Corpsman, but I can call 911 as well as anybody else so don't call on me.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2009 - 01:07am PT
I thought about the event lasting over two days with a day to go home and those that think it's a bit too much. Well, here's what I came up with:

For those that have to "work for a living" you can come on Saturday. For those that can't come on Saturday, you can come on Friday. And, for those that don't work for a living or can find the time off for all three days, you can decide on whether you can endure both days of climbing or attend only one. Either way, whatever day(s) you can attend there will be something after the day of climbing that will make the day even more memorable, ie; slideshows on Friday or post party on Saturday. Then on Sunday we can all go home.

I think more than one option is better in this case. What do you think?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2009 - 01:22am PT
Although no pictures came out of today, here's one of the problems BVB and Beehay worked on. I took this photo back in the day and the some of the comments it produced are quoted below the picture. (rc.com)


"hey...that's my wife, circa '85 - 86!" - BVB

"You sure that's your wife Bob? If I remember correctly, this gal didn't seem to be a very accomplished climber when she stepped on to Lemon Chiffon that day. Isn't your wife hard core?!" - illusiondweller

"maybe she was out drinking the night before" - BVB

"She produced a great shot either way, thanks." - illusiondweller

"Bob, you sure that's Jocelyn. Doesn't she normally carry a bigger rack?" - curt
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 27, 2009 - 11:52am PT
Personally, I like the options for the days. It's likely that Saturday won't work for me, whereas Friday, and possibly even Sunday would. Saturday as the primary day is still going to work best for most people though.

bvb/beehay - I wasn't really looking for a tick list from the excursion, just hoping for some pics to motivate/inspire. bvb a fashion disappointment? Not possible.

'dweller - for sure, they're great guys. But if you believe everything you hear, well, I have a bridge I'll sell you cheap. End of that story.

bvb, how long are you out for?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
Bump
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Dec 27, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
So that climb 2 pages back is Digits Delight (I'm pretty sure).
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Dec 27, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
Here's another idea Gary. If my casa is too small for Sat. Nite Jive....could hold a Fri. nite live for those like DH that can't make Sat.

It's just an idea, trying to make the hospitality of Sun Diego work for all that make it down here. Peace and joy in 2010 .... a New Year that we all are blessed with. :D
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
Sprocketville
Dec 27, 2009 - 02:41pm PT
hey Lynn, the shitter's clogged up again.

you got a plunger?

procrastanatedog dehydrated climbers,sheesh,

it's like rocks falling out of there,

holy hasheesh, half the climbing world is gonna be in one place,

good time to hit The Nose, eh? man, they let anybody in down there,

do you have to be over 50 to get in? if so, sign me up.

this place in in Calif., right?

i should have that right front replaced by then, if not? f*#k it, we will drive with the mesh showing for this shindig,

is the guy from Where The Action Is gonna be there? howabout Dick Clark?
Dimes

Social climber
Living in the past.
Dec 27, 2009 - 02:50pm PT

So, here is the man BVB at the last gig.
Dimes

Social climber
Living in the past.
Dec 27, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
O.K. I just got off of the phone with Henny and my direction from him is to "liven" up the thread. So, with those as my marching orders I got to thinking that we should consider Friday and Saturday as a warm up to get our tips in shape for the finale that will be held at Rubidoux on Sunday. This is where once and for all it will be decided "Who is Really Who in the Zoo"!!! Just writing this has already made me feel like the King of Beasts!!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Dec 27, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
Gezzzz, well finally kp yo are letting loose of some of your great pics and ideas. Let's see more of both. And your idea of F-S sounds grate. Peace and Happy New Year, from your favorite Belgian fan.....uhhhh, maybe your only Belgium fan lol. lynne :D
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. Beehay aka Brad
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44-45. ? Steve Belford & Karen
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (ClimbinCalifornia.com)
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. - 72. John/Melissa
73.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
Dimes, I don't see your name up there. Are you in?
F10

Trad climber
e350
Dec 27, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
"Dimes, I don't see your name up there. Are you in?"

Check with number 48 and 49
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Dec 27, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
Put BeeHay back at No. 2 or no one may show up.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 27, 2009 - 06:30pm PT
I heard a "rumor" yesterday at some bouldering area in or near Santee that Henny might be warming up or sizing up Rubidoux today. Any truth to that? Kevin you might know if you talked with the ch.... I mean Henny today. I think he might be throwin' down some hardddd core training to get into the Woodson dig, like Darrel needs to train to climb well!
Peace

#48: Kevin is #49: Powell
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
Okay, I think I got it now. Had to jockey it around a bit and in the process Beehay is moving back up. He scored a few points yesterday by nailing the center problem on Blasted Rock #2 so he deserves the promotion. Sorry F10.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
Training at Rubidoux for Woodson, is that possible? I'm going to say, "NOT!"
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Dec 27, 2009 - 08:32pm PT
Off White, you are 'da man!
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 27, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
Well let's just say if Henny is "training".....it don't matter where. Was bouldering yesterday with an old friend of Hennys and a good point was made,
"the guy from the chicken farm, may just well be the best face climber EVER!"
I think Darrel has logged some time in at Woodson, he ain't no slacker there.
Peace
Dimes

Social climber
Living in the past.
Dec 27, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
IllusionDweller, yes I am in. Will be there for sure. Here is a pic of Henny training at Rubidoux back in 1980. The problem is called "In My Time of Dimes" 5.11a

gonzo chemist

climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
Dec 27, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
"In My Time of Dimes"


hahahahaha. GREAT name for a climb!!



henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 27, 2009 - 11:35pm PT
I always got a kick out of the good natured rivalry between Woodson and Rubidoux locals. Great fun, exchanging visits and trying to out sandbag each other (ala "10a on the Outside") Course us Rubidoux guys luckily had the head smack talker himself (KP) which freed us from actually having to do anything. Seriously though - Rubidoux is an absolute waste of time for cracks, but the harder face problems are probably adequate to get one in shape for just about anything that's similar.

Figures Powell would try to rat me out, but no, I didn't visit Rubidoux today. Instead I had to work on the tips by doing some Bishop bouldering.

Getting some callous going seemed like the essential first step for the Rubidoux war party raid that's planned on Woodson later this week.

Gaack, those sideburns.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 27, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
i thought in my time of dimes was santee 10c?
henny

Social climber
The Past
Dec 28, 2009 - 12:03am PT
bvb - did you go home? I'm coming down later this week. If you're there through the new year I'd be up for getting shown around.

BTW - That was a typo by KP, the Dimes is 10a. Would it really be Santee 10c...?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2009 - 12:12am PT
Can't wait to meet Darrell Hensel and many others...it's been a long time since the contests back in '86 and '90 where when every corner you took there was activity to be seen or heard up on the hillside.

You know, as much as a good number of climbers prefer to be loners or to be out of the limelight, there are those that want to meet the climbers that did make it onto center stage or even those that didn't but whose names were bragged on about by their peers! I'm speaking for myself as well, for I always wanted to get better with my skills and what better way to do that than to watch or be in the tutealage of someone with more experience than yourself. The kids today are no different than we were. For this reason, I wanted to invite the "kids" up there with us "back in the day" crew so they could walk up a trail and around the manzanita to watch one of us climb or just to meet and hear our stories from back then... or even humble us with their strong skills!

I brag on and become animated about some of your names in this forum to this day to these kids! Can you imagine the excitement that it'll bring, or has already brought to them that they just might be able to meet one of you? Even if you were "nothing", like myself, they, like I, would love to hear your stories. I brought a young climber, Mike, with me the other day when I was looking for BVB and Beehay. We ended up running into John with his girlfriend Melissa, and Chas then continued walking up and over the summit to continue searching. I kept appologizing to Mike for we were doing nothing but hiking instead of climbing. As a matter of fact, the one climb, California Night, that we did do/try was above Mike's ability and he just sat and watched. His comment was, "That's okay, I enjoy meeting climbers who have more experience than myself and watching them for I can learn alot and they have a lot to say." This is the way I was and can probably guess that more than a few of us were as well.

I hope you don't mind that I'm encouraging the kids to be there. It's becoming their mountain/scene now and it'll be up to us to pass down our stories to them so they can say, "Hey, I remember the 2010 Woodson Shindig / 1986 - 90 Reunion when I had a chance to talk and climb with a lot of the "back in the day" guys that we always heard about!

Why don't I encourage you "back in the day" guys/gals to bring a "youngster", whether it's your own or not, with you to the event?!

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2009 - 12:23am PT
I left you an email Darrell. Be sure and check your junk mail.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 28, 2009 - 12:30am PT
Is this 'Mount' Woodson? Just curious - I've never seen a photo of it.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2009 - 12:37am PT
That looks to be it in the distance with the attenna's on top looking from the south. That's what I see coming from my house!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2009 - 12:42am PT
Another classic with a young BVB...

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2009 - 02:39am PT
Bump.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2009 - 02:42am PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. Beehay aka Brad
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (ClimbinCalifornia.com)
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. - 72. John/Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Dec 28, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
I'll head down for this! Sounds like something not to be missed.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
Thanks guys...are radical and Schaffer the same person?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 12:06am PT
Gosh, I hope I didn't kill this thread!

I/we will be posting camping and hotel arrangements shortly but for now, let's see a raise of hands from those that live down here with land, and in the area, that can provide onsite camping for those that attend or can provide a room for those attending and if so, how many and what arrangements? For those already doing so, bless you!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Dec 29, 2009 - 12:44am PT
less chit chat, more pic pic

what this thread needs is more Tarboussier

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 01:22am PT
DARN IT, I DID IT AGAIN! GOSH, I CAN'T BELIEVE IT! I JUST KICKED THE FOOTSTOOL IN FRONT OF MY COUCH AGAIN AND I COULD SWEAR I WAS GOING TO LOOK DOWN AND SEE IT BENT NINETY DEGREES AGAIN! UNBELIEVABLE!

I did this about a year ago and busted the third toe on my left foot and it was terrible, especially being a climber! I got almost diaphoretic again, with the same excruciating pain and chills that I was begging (while lying prone on the couch with my face in my hands) that it wasn't going to be the same toe/injury! But I'm happy (sort of) to report that it was the fourth toe this time, still in alignment, but swelling with black and blue, from the second digit to the tip of the toe, as we speak. I had just pissed my wife off too and this followed shortly thereafter (I'm convinced it wasn't a coincidence). I don't want to imagine what it's going to be like putting a pair of climbing shoes on yet alone climbing on it! Unbelievable! I'm still in though for at least a hike up the mountain with ya Darrell when you're in town (shaking my head in despair).
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 01:38am PT
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Dec 29, 2009 - 01:59am PT
Ron didn't really have that much to worry about... I was "Local Favorite?" Gimme a break... Don't know why I was targeted?? Entrant #9, Got to go way ahead of the pack... Ron Kauk, takes a detour during his comp circuit as Rick Piggot insists that he try one of his new creations, A Nightmare on Elm Street.

Won't see you there...Got to see it when it was clean....
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 04:20am PT
Hope to see you Mike. You'll certaintly be missed if we don't!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Dec 29, 2009 - 04:35am PT
Radical and Shaffer are two different people. (different as in not the same....:D) lynne
salad

climber
Escondido
Dec 29, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
i can provide tent spots in my backyard. im sure my spare rooms are already taken by mungeclimber/scuffyb, etc.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 04:16pm PT
How many spots Salad?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 04:51pm PT
I can provide (1) room with bed for a couple/husband and wife or significant other arrangement in Spring Valley, CA. about 25 minute drive from Woodson. Leave me an email.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
Here's a link to Dos Picos Park/Camping located just down the road from Woodson. There are still 41/82 tent/partial hook-up sites left for that time of the year: http://www.sdcounty.ca.gov/parks/picnic/dos_picos.html.

Hotels can be found in the cities of Poway or Ramona, west and east of Woodson respectively.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 29, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
is it just me or is the base of hear my train eroding away? seems like it's a way bigger stretch than it once was to get the first jams. seems like maybe some rocks that provided boost are gone now? hell, i can't remember what the base used to look like but something seems different nowadays...
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
Bob, lol, gravity is taking you down bro (as in shorter)! No, the start is still the same as it ever was since '81, from standing on the apex of that stone below. There are definitely some problems where the starts have eroded away making it a taller start from the ground, ie; Maria's Delight. You're still the man though Bob...

salad

climber
Escondido
Dec 29, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
"How many spots Salad? "

plenty of room. big dirt backyard.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 07:06pm PT
Bump
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
Out of Sight Crack, 5.9


illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 09:11pm PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. Beehay aka Brad
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (ClimbinCalifornia.com)
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. - 72. John/Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 09:16pm PT
Vice Principle's Office Move Topo

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2009 - 09:44pm PT
Was perusing my emails from the past and came across these From/To John Bachar that we exchanged regarding his health and in purchasing his Acopa's...the only time I ever got to do so before he died...


On Jul 6, 2007, at 11:14 AM, G M wrote:


John,

I spoke with you on rc.com a while back when gathering information for Mt. Woodson on rc.com's site and then you had your accident. How is everything? Where are you in your recovery? Climbing yet? Just saw your post in regards to Mike Strassman's death and thought about you.



Gary E. McCay
New Jersey (San Diego native)




-----Original Message

From: "John Bachar"
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 6:23 PM
To: "G M"
Subject: Re: wellness

Gary,
Thanks man - I really appreciate it. I'm climbing OK these days (11c to 12a sport). Don't have any power yet (bouldering) but I ain't complaining - just happy as hell to be on the rock again.

How's the Woodson project going? I'd be happy to help if I can - if I can remember that far back that is!

Anyway, hope you're strong and healthy and hope to see ya' at the crags sometime soon. Let me know if you ever get up to the East Side for some climbing action - let's go cragging baby!

Cheers,
John

==

Re: wellness‏
From: John Bachar (john@acopausa.com)
Sent: Tue 1/29/08 10:34 PM
To: illusiondweller (illusiondweller@hotmail.com)

How's all that Woodson info coming together anyway?

I got a new injury now - I pulled my groin really bad the other day. Won't be climbing for a couple months at least.

Enjoy the shoes!

Talk soon, John



On Jan 29, 2008, at 8:19 PM, illusiondweller wrote:

Your groin? John, were u climbing? Dang, that sounds uncomfortable! Out for a couple months? That had to have been a mental setback as well as the physical after having progressed since your car accident! Are u self treating?



Re: wellness‏
From: John Bachar (john@acopausa.com)
Sent: Tue 1/29/08 11:32 PM
To: illusiondweller (illusiondweller@hotmail.com)

Yeah, I jumped off a boulder problem and landed in a open legged squat position and felt a ripping sensation in my groin. I thought maybe it was a hernia so I went to the doctor. He said I pulled my adductor longus and pubic symphysis ligament. Man it really hurt bad for the first ten days. It's a little better now but I can tell it's gonna take a while to heal.

I think I'll go to physical therapy for a couple sessions to see what they do for this type of injury.

Anyway, I hope all's good on your end of things and those Spectres are working for you on those Woodson dimes!

Hopefully we'll go climbing this summer when I heal up!

Cheers, John



Re: Spectres‏
From: John Bachar (john@acopausa.com)
Sent: Wed 4/02/08 9:45 AM
To: illusiondweller (illusiondweller@hotmail.com)

The adductor longus is better but I pulled some deeper stomach muscle too and that still feel a little weak and tender. I just started wearing a harness two weeks ago and still can't take a leader fall or belay someone who does take leader falls. I hope the shoe thing works out for you. I'll be in Josh Friday night for the reunion thing this weekend. Gimme a call if you're out there... Cheers, John








Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Dec 30, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
Just curious, but are you trying to keep this on the front page for the next three months?
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Dec 30, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
BUMP!
beats the off topic stuff!
Peace
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 30, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
Good luck keeping anything here on the front page for three days, let alone three months. Even LEB couldn't do it.

ID may have overlooked that when he posts a new 'bump', simply as such - no new content - he can go back and delete earlier bumps. Helps tidy things up.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 30, 2009 - 02:45pm PT
ID is aware of the delete post option for previous "bumps"...thanks again. Having a BlackBerry in pocket helps keep up while on the go.
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Dec 30, 2009 - 05:16pm PT
C'mon, Off, it's only 2 months and 3 weeks now.

I keep a rocket in my pocket, I try to bump it daily...
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2009 - 12:04am PT
Monkey Crack, 5.10c, circa '83

"Boreal History: (http://www.eboreal.com/ing/HTML/frameCentralEmpresa_historia.htm);

1983: The best extreme climbers in the world: Bachar, Moffatt, Kauk, Carrigan, Güllich, etc... began to use exclusively Boreal-Fire"

I guess this promo worked!

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
I guess that didn't work or what, lol? Word has it that you can embed video's from youtube (other than just creating a link) so I tried the "embed" code from youtube and it didn't work. Maybe someone else knows?
F10

Trad climber
e350
Jan 1, 2010 - 01:08am PT
"Just curious, but are you trying to keep this on the front page for the next three months?"


One_Million_Posts_On_the_Taco_Forum

I would put my $$$$$ on this thread, it would be a sure thing,


F10

Trad climber
e350
Jan 1, 2010 - 01:09am PT
BUMP
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 05:50am PT
Although I was a late arrival today I met up with the Rubidoux crew, Henny, Johnny, Melissa and Tim coming down the mountain who had just come off of Airstream. The afternoon was exceptional, complete with a clear view of the Point Loma peninsula, the Coronado Islands, a spectacular and huge harvest moonrise emerging up from behind the eastern horizon and a painted sunset out west!

The wind chilled us all as we ticked Eppi's B-Day and got spanked on the arete to its left. To my surprise, my toe seemed to be unaffected until I stepped up on Baby Robbins Crack and whimpered like a baby. This was not a good thing. Johnny's classic rock seem to put me "back in the day" again and that WAS a good thing!
Although a short day for me it was nice to have been there with some new faces and talented people.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 06:55am PT
Bump for the new year!
Ray Olson

Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
Jan 1, 2010 - 01:52pm PT
help keep it bumped W/ some SD county BITD
climbing story spray...got tons of that :-)

pre and post sticky rubber exploits...




illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
Thank God for another beautiful day in San Diego!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
Here's some b.i.t.d. spray for ya Ray..."Do you know Ray Olson? I remember watching him do Driving South and it seemed his feet never touched the rock!" or how about this one..."At the '86 awards ceremony, when the announcer was about to give out an award, he asked, " Is Ray Olson out there? Stand up Ray so we can see you" You frustratingly replied, "I am standing up!"
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 04:23pm PT
Bump
Ray Olson

Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
Jan 1, 2010 - 04:37pm PT
hilarious!

so, check it out -

once I took Piggot way the hell out to
one of the most remote crags around
(at that time) a thing I named "The Hotel
Dell" on Mothergrundy peak.

there's this near exact - and I mean exact
carbon-copy of The Test Tube up there but,
it is way the phuk overhanging. Not roof-like
just WAY freakin steep.

So happens, I fit in the flare perfect, heel/knee
action with the lower, elbow/palm action with
the upper, fishing for tip jams with the inside hand,
and so "ratcheted" up the thing smoothly - just a
quirk; I fit the climb to a T.

Piggot did the thing no falls too, but it took some
effort, he trembled a fair bit, almost off a couple
times eeeeeee - but got it - pretty amazing.

Funny!

Rick was great to climb with.

We were all so freakin lucky to have a
life like that. What a gift climbing is!

:-)
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 05:21pm PT
Okay, back to Mother Grundy Truck Trail...

We were TRing "Full Moon Boogy." I was sitting there tying my shoes, getting ready. I tied in and started up the thing when a friend of mine stated, "Gary, look at your shoes!" I look down while in a finger lock and notice that I have one red shoe and one green shoe! "Huh?!" I ask myself. "You've got one of my shoes on!" he laughs. I continue anyway.

Okay...it's not over....I top out on the same, meet eyes with my belayer, Joe, and take tension for the lower off. Joe has taken refuge on top of a boulder about twenty feet back from the climb, thinking that since it was just a TR everything SHOULD be okay. I begin to lower when suddenly....I BEGIN TO FALL! As my stomach makes it's way up into my throat, everything goes black! When I come to a bungy-like halt and reopen my eyes, my feet are about six feet from the ground and Joe is floundering in the dirt cloud underneath me trying to regain his composure! "WTF!" I exclaim. "There, that's for the time you rolled that car tire over my foot and ripped the toenail off when we were kids!" he retorted.

This still puzzles me to this day!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. Beehay aka Brad
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. - 72. John/Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77. Gary Carpenter
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
Ray, you have to come to this even if you don't climb! Come on dude everyone talks about you. Brad aka BeeHay still can't put your F.R.O.G. pack down. I was just up at Woodson yesterday and the crew from Rubidoux were the ones telling me those fun stories about you and your climbing. You really would be an asset for this one. Also, pass the word on to any contacts that you may have that haven't heard about this and have them join in as well.
Ray Olson

Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
Jan 1, 2010 - 06:51pm PT
can't man - love to.
dealing w/ "severe lubar arthritis" right now,
and have some disk/bone spur crap going
on that I cannot mess with - sorry, so kind
of you and sorry to get "gory". Ok. :-)

chin up/man up - another SD cragger tale:
Pre-sticky rubber.

was out at "The Burn" with Epi, Jeff and Adrian
Almodovar. Right by the road (truck trail) are
some classic Woodson size boulders with some
nifty thin cracks! Really neat ones. These are TR
climbs BECAUSE - you need mass huevos of solid
Chromemoly steel to highball and your mental health
would be in even more question if you tried to lead.

High enough to phuk you up bad if you decked, maybe
not die and hard enough (SD county 5.11+*) to count.
* meaning this sh*t would be easily in the .12 range in
a normal YDS scenario.

There's this crack, "Double-Digit Inflation"; very pretty
straight in fingers, perfect rock, nice subtle variations
in the crack - not some brutal square cut hideous sh*t.
Primo quality.

So, we all do a lap or two on that - in E.B's...mine had some
sort of bullsh*t resole job with some kinda crappy rubber and
you just made believe it was "better than stock". We (I) was punked-
out: pink patent leather side-panels on the EB's and high end
Vaurnet sunglasses, dude.

Then, after that, I take the guys a few dozen yards north (these are
west-facing climbs) to this OTHER thing I found. I had looked at it
from the ground, stuck my mitts in it and wondered if I could really
climb the phukking thing - it is nearly a roof. And, it is "bad size";
1" to 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" and you look out, upside down and feel like
you're pulling out a roof - way cool! Killer climbing.

A TR was set. We all had a go. It was quite hard. No one was getting
it. Hmm. Took something like 3 tries, 3 falls, and the sequence finally
clicked. Its the type of climbing where you feel "barely in there" you know?.
Like a whisper and you're OFF. Great stuff.

Just before the buldge/lip you get hands, and then an abrupt fist right
at the lip, pull the lip - seems easy then, don't blow it - and its over.

the "Hillside Strangler" .11+ kick ass cool IMO. Epi, fairlly reserved told
me he honestly thought it was, at that time, the hardest thing he knew of
in SD. He didn't hand that sh*t out like candy, and I remember thinkng
to myself "dude, don't let it go to your head because you know all three
of those guys are - in fact - much better climbers than you". And that was/
is true. Climbs like that are sort of like a "trick" or something, and my size
may have helped. Way fun tho.

Not sure if Jeff did it or if they all got shut down.

BTW, Hudon is right, it IS footwork. Really is. You gotta "over emphasise"
and good phukking luck setting 1 1/8" jams in a near roof if you cannot
lock in with the feet strongly and basically kinda "cantalever" the upper
body inward - along with subtle, tiny, deadpoint moves.

Learned that from watching Watusi climb; really, kind of a master
in my book.

Cool day, good fun - the beautiful onshore breeze flowing, sun shining,
68 degree mid January - just another day in the hills with my buds.

We were so, so fortunate.
It was such a blast.

The power, energy, and insane single-mindedness of youth.
Nothing, absolutly nothing in this world like it.

anyway...

have fun
climb safe

Ray

:-)
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
Great stuff Ray...If you didn't know, I did the Paramedic thing for nearly 17 years so what you shared was tame, yet, I understand now what you must be going through. Back problems can be the worst for it provides your central support for your body and it can be completely debilitating! Take it slow and take care of yourself.

On a different note, as well as sharing "spray", I thought I'd also start a "What Other Paths Did Life Take You" over the years since the good ol' days of climbing?

On that note here's a copy/paste from my blog:

"I, now forty seven years of age, was raised in the civilian world until the age of thirty six, two month's before my thirty seventh birthday, the cut-off age for the Reserves then, when I stepped into a Navy recruiter's office and offered my services as a civilian Paramedic.

Since the age of seventeen, when my high school football field was invaded by all the branches of the armed forces, each branch having set up their own recruitment tent in preparation to fill their quotas, my thought of becoming a Navy SEAL had surfaced. I never took the bait back then but the desire to "do my part" in the United States Armed Services followed me. I wanted to be able to say, "I know where you're coming from" when in conversation with a service member. I was in a bit of need for a job and support at that time in my life and word had it that the Service was incorporating civilian experience into the military.

One morning, while having breakfast with a Navy recruiter who was nearly half my age, I was offered a part-time enlisted position as a Navy Corpsman in the Ready Reserves which I accepted with a signature on the dotted line. The next day I was officially sworn in down at the 32nd Street Naval Air Station, San Diego, California. Yes, it was a crash course into the Navy but in the eight years that I served I learned a bit more about the services that protect my country."

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 07:25pm PT
This inevitably landed me in Iraq at the end of August of '04. I spent the next seven month's over there with a Marine unit out of Texas as one of their Corpsman. Of course, I couldn't give up climbing, so other than having my Climbing Magazine subscription transfered over there I found a cement wall were I created a traverse wall with "glue up" holds that consisted of natural Euphrates River rock and plastic gym holds that I had given to me from another military member who had done the same thing but passed them on to me before he returned home from his deployment. I guess word traveled for I had never met the guy before nor was he part of our group. He showed up one day with a box of holds!

Here's a couple of pictures from rc.com:



Ray Olson

Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
Jan 1, 2010 - 08:25pm PT
thank you Illusiondweller -
neat pix from your blog and
everything.

looks like the Woodsonian thing
will hopefully become an annual
and maybe even regular deal.

Looks to be a killer turn-out.

say, one question - do you recall
where at Mt. Woodson the boulder
problem named "Pit Bull" is? And,
basically what kind of climb it is?

I think they pinned the FA on me,
and its flat-out pitiful I can't remember.
BUT, the main reason I ask is, maybe
that info will jog my mind to cough
up some more memories and stuff.

thanks again.

Ray

Oh, BTW - iin terms of injuries, I got a buddy
who was totaled big time, they put him back
together and - it took a while - but darned if
he isn't climbing and leading really well again
AT AGE 52.

so - am hopeful; more later.

:-)
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 1, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
hey ray --

"pit bull" is on a boulder located on the crest of the hill above "hear my train" -- a steep, southwest-facing face climb on some pretty small holds. rick allenby did the f.a. think they called it 5.12.
Dimes

Social climber
Living in the past.
Jan 1, 2010 - 09:36pm PT
Here is Donny Bedford on Deport Jonny the day of the FA in Mar of 89.

Ray Olson

Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
Jan 1, 2010 - 09:44pm PT
thanks bvb - that clarifies it since I didn't remember it
at all and was beginning...to wonder :-)
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Bob, Ray, Pit Bull (original), 5.10d/5.11, circa '85, is at the summit, behind the now fenced in, white brick, National Oceanograhic Weather Service, something like that, building, about 100 yds downhill on the south face. On the overhanging east side of the boulder, starting down low and left, is a detaching flake that diagonals up and right to a sloping mantle topout with two bolts and chain anchor. Getting to these anchors to set up the TR is the first crux! I was told you put this up Ray, whether you did or not is not for certain. Now, there is another Pit Bull down at Tower #1 which went up much later.
Gary Carpenter

climber
SF Bay Area
Jan 2, 2010 - 04:35pm PT
Illusiondweller on "The Potato Chip" 1-1-2009


We just happened to meet him as we were hiking up the trail & he gave me and Ed H a tour of all the Woodson classics. As I recall, the tour ended by headlamp after dark!

I'm looking forward to being there Saturday.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
Gary...this is Gary...;-)

Well, some of the classics for there are much more. Seeing this was a surprise for I had forgotten about that picture! Hey, I wish we had had more time to climb together that day. I saw the video's that you ended up with after that trip and they were classic (http://www.vimeo.com/2756857);! Looks like we'll get a chance to do it again in March. Thanks for posting that.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 2, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
one of these days that puppy is gonna snap.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
Don't be mislead by my relaxed posture for I believe I was saying, "Hurry up and take that picture guys!" Quite a change from what we use to think as kids! Steve Belford out of Poway use to heel hook that thing out to the end then mantle up and over! That drop off below has to be 30-40 feet to the ground, no?
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 2, 2010 - 09:36pm PT
Super Bump for that last photo!! Priceless really!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 2, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
bvb - Check your ST e-mail. A mutual friend of ours is looking to get in touch with you about a Flagstaff trip.

Cool picture of Donny on Deport Jonny. Another great problem. I just got an e-mail address for Donny. I plan to contact him and will mention the March get together. I sure do hope someone knows how to contact Rick Piggot, and has done so. Rick would seem to be one of the key figures to have present at any Woodson get together.

I spoke to Woodward who said he didn't believe he would be able to make it out in March. He happened to call me while we were up by the top of the mountain. Gave me a stack of sh#t about bouldering in the sun while he was shoveling snow. Isn't Woodson great?

It was a couple of enjoyable days at Woodson. Nice to see the place again after having not been there for so long. Good friends, good problems, great place.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 2, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
Anybody remember the name of the top rope arete just left of Eppy's B-day? The problem was put up by Donny Bedford, and for the life of me I can't remember the name now. It's like Rubidoux's Pink Bug, only it's a much, much longer version of it on some serious steroids.

Donny found the problem in retaliation for having been taken to the Pink Bug during one of his Rubidoux visits. Something about problems like that being a dime a dozen at Woodson, only much bigger (both true), and that they were going home to find something just for us. A couple of weeks later there was a phone call that said they had found a "present" for us to try and open just left of Eppy's B-day. Forced to defend Rubidoux's honor a trip was made down to Woodson specifically for it. Luckily it was repeated on the first trip within relatively few tries, but it was a serious effort.

Going back to it was revealing, as over time the true difficulty of it had faded in memory. Getting spanked was an apt description for the return visit to it. Funny how much harder it was lacking the "proper" motivation.

Yet again another good Woodson problem, and relatively unknown I suspect. Which is too bad because it's quite good.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2010 - 11:37pm PT
Check this one out of that flake Mike!...

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
Gosh, I think that kid has his left arm behind his back, no?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2010 - 12:24am PT
bump
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2010 - 12:25am PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. Beehay aka Brad
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. - 72. John/Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77. Gary Carpenter
78. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
79. Mo's brother
80. Matt
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2010 - 01:48am PT
Anymore SoCal cragger tales out there? Let's here 'em!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2010 - 03:58am PT
Here's one that sounds more like a roadrunner episode than anything! But I'm telling you, it actually happened!...

I was out alone at Santee, circa 1980 something, back by the Twenty Point Boulder when nature called on me to deliver a package. I had other options but I found myself walking uphill along the ridge on a faint trail. Out of sight from any humans that I could see I proceeded to drop my drawers and assume the position. Faintly, I started to detect the familiar sound of something running over the ground and it was quickly getting louder in front of me! I started to raise my eyes (don't forget to recall the position I was in) when a COYOTE appeared coming directly at me at full steam! When his eyes met with mine he put on his brakes, rearing back and coming to a sliding stop in the dirt about fifteen feet before me! He locked eyes with me for a quick second longer then darted to his right, down into the ravine below. I continued watching when out from a bush, a Jack rabbit emerged with the coyote now in close pursuit! Still shaken, I took a deep breath in relief and then realized that I was finished with my delivery!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2010 - 02:09pm PT
Happy Birthday Ed Hartouni!


This photo must have been taken the same day mine was taken!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Jan 4, 2010 - 02:21pm PT


Woodson.....Pic I took in early 80's. Sorry for the quality. Any idea what climb ? lynnie








illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2010 - 02:32pm PT
FYI, this looks like my older brother! Its not but that's the first thing I thought of when I looked at it. I don't recognize the surroundings. Is it in a California desert? Whoa wait, you changed the picture! Lol, and I still can't place the boulder?
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Jan 4, 2010 - 02:42pm PT
Sorry Gary, my picture posting has not worked well, if at all, since I arrived in Europe. Got the two correct pics up now. Hope they stay in place. It is Woodson...we did a bushwack back in the day to get to this rock. lynne
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Jan 4, 2010 - 02:51pm PT


Or who this climber is ???
Tui

Boulder climber
SD
Jan 4, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
I think the pic that is two pics up is the climb that is on the trail going down to Hard as Nails. Greg's problem. 5.11a
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2010 - 03:12pm PT
Don't recognize the climber but it looks as if he is unroped on the Seminar Wall?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 4, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
this problem is "greg's face", totally obvious from the road, right below the seminar wall awitchback. when i was at woodson with beehay over christmas we stopped and looked at it from the road. the trail to it is gone, just gone. i bet nobody has done that thing in a very, very long time. and that's a shame. it's a five-star woodson 5.11 highball with lots of air and classic steep slab moves. one of the best climbs of it's type at woodson, really. somebody should cut a new trail down to it before the shindig so folks can jump on it.

i think you used to walk under it on the way down to "hard as nails". is that trail gone as well?

Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 4, 2010 - 03:47pm PT
Yeah Bob I remember that one being cool!!
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Diego
Jan 4, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
Stay psyched Woodsonites!
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Jan 4, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
bvb, thanks for the info. Think it was a bit of a "bushy" walk bitd. If anyone wants to meet me at Woodsen between now and March I'd be glad to provide some labor and a couple machetes. :D lynne
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
I was nineteen, back in 1981, when, while working at General Dynamics Electronics, I learned of a ropes course being given out in Jacumba, CA. I would meet a man named Roger Barnes, of Poway, CA, who became my climbing mentor for a number of years thereafter. Roger introduced me to Woodson and began to share with me its lore that I continue to share to those that come to this wonderful place. I hope to reunite with Roger and bring him with me in March.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 4, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
bvb - trails are currently being cut/recut to new/existing problems. You made your wish in the right place, I suspect trails will now reappear to those classics. It looks like there are quite a few new problems under construction.

That spot on Greg's Problem looks really useful. About the only thing that would happen there is that the "spotter" would get "squashed".

I'm not sure if I've ever been to Hard as Nails or not. What kind of problem is it? Face or crack? For some reason I want to say crack but I'm not sure why.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
The trail is still there ya'll but a bit vague to spot. Just before the Seminar Wall switchback, across the road from where that overhanging orange face looms above, you can spot it down on the right side below some cement blocks. It's quite the groomed trail still! Henny, this is the same trail to Hard As Nails, 5.11a/b tips crack that looks like a miniature of something you'd see in Yosemite! It's that gorgeous and leadable! Johnny said he had been there when I ran into you all. I'm sure he can fill you in on the details. Here are some pictures I found...




illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
Here, Lynne....I did a quick retouch job on that photo...

Anxious Melancholy

Mountain climber
Between the Depths of Despair & Heights of Folly
Jan 4, 2010 - 07:27pm PT
I'd like to see you all, but if I show up it will give Zip an opportunity to kick my ass............
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Jan 5, 2010 - 08:40am PT
Thanks Illusion....looks great ! lynne
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 5, 2010 - 09:04am PT
Reiholdht Meissner?

anxious, that zip ain'tt kickin' anyone's ass....
Johannsolo

climber
Jan 5, 2010 - 01:59pm PT
I was down at Greg's face for a look a couple of weeks ago. Still a faint trail from the gully below Seminar wall. The base of the face is overgrown though. We'll chop it out probably on the next visit.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 5, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
I got in touch with Donny Bedford. Hopefully he'll post up here soon, as he was mentioning some pretty good stuff.

He did set me straight on the name and rating of the arete just left of Eppy's B-day. Slap You Silly, 11b.

Looks like some 11a problems need to be dusted off at Rubidoux. Sheesh, it just never seems to end.
Tui

Boulder climber
SD
Jan 5, 2010 - 09:06pm PT
The best trail to Greg's face and Nails is on the right side of the road about 10 feet before it turns left. You Go straight down for about 8 feet over two small rocks and the trail goes left straight to Greg's and then hits the gully and you follow that downhill (right) for 30 feet or so.
Tui

Boulder climber
SD
Jan 5, 2010 - 09:07pm PT
Thanks to whomever is fixing the trails. Some look freshly cut in the past few months.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jan 5, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
Can I come? I really wanna'!
I been to Woodson a time or two.
Put me on the list please.


I really just want to check out the scene, and I'm old enough to fit in.


What's the date again?
Johannsolo

climber
Jan 5, 2010 - 10:29pm PT
We re-chopped out the trail from Big Horn down to Starface. Amazing piece of rock down there. Don't show up without a limb saw.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 5, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
oh, right...starface! i'd totally forgotten about that rig. one of the best V2 superhighball slabs at woodson.

gonna hit that up for sure...on a top-rope.
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Jan 5, 2010 - 11:37pm PT
Hey dee ee,

You had better damn well not show up higher than #12 on that list! (I'm still considering suing for a recount, I smell hanging chads...)
Get on the Grecian Formula now, ol' man, we are well preserved here in Extreme Socal.
I hope you make it.

Brad
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 6, 2010 - 12:31am PT
Dave yer ON the list, March 19-21, but I think us "oldies" are only gonna show on Saturday or whatever! Be there, it won't be hard to recognize all of us. Look for the gray hair, beer gut, balding heads and old school chalk bags!
Peace


Gary....PUT DAVE ON THE LIST!!!!!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jan 6, 2010 - 10:52am PT
Brad, I think I'm #2 on the list. How come you're so far down? ahem
diablo

Trad climber
sd,ca
Jan 6, 2010 - 10:53am PT
ok, if dee ee is in so am I , I'll try and get ahold of buba also.
What about Raker? Anyone know about him?
JEFF A.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 6, 2010 - 11:44am PT
'bout time jeff. frikken fashionably late party crasher.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 6, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
I'll get hold of Raker, he travels a ton so it'll be lucky if he's free, but ya never know!
Peace
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Jan 6, 2010 - 04:09pm PT
Ron, Rob may be relocating to the Eastside so perhaps he can make it. If he can, a couple of my climbing kiddos may come down too. They were in the single digit time of their life when we hit Woodson bitd and reconnected with Raker at John's Memorial. Peace :D Lynne
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 04:17pm PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. Beehay aka Brad
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. - 72. John/Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77. Gary Carpenter
78. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
79. Mo's brother
80. Matt
81. Dave
82. Dee ee
83. Anxious Melancholy
84. Diablo aka Jeff Almadovar
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
I'll second that Bob, "It's about time, Jeff!"

Did I get all the new arrivals on the list? Sorry, been out of pocket the last few days.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 6, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
#81 and #82 Dave and dee eee may be the one and same!
Peace

Lynne, I'll call Raker, would be good news if he's heading to the east side, he didn't mention it at the memorial, but we just had a short time together and we were talkin' other smack.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
Here's a repost from the first page Dee ee...

"This should be better/cooler (temp) than the last! The date is set: March 19, 20, 21, 2010 up at Mt. Woodson. Come one, come all, young and old, local and far off. Yet, also, looking for those that attended the last shindig in '07 and those that attended the contest in 1986 and 1990! This should be a historic event for Woodson's history and a chance for the young and old to come together and enjoy what we all can't seem to get enough of! Plans include: guest appearances, both from the past and present, product giveaways and booths, along with post climb slideshows and party over a three day weekend!"
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 6, 2010 - 04:27pm PT
Gary, I'm not sure, but I think #81 and #82 may be the same person. dee ee is Dave (as in - Mr. Evans, Sir).

Well, if the Rake shows nobody that has any food is going to be safe. So much for anybody bringing a lunch or snack along with them. "Hey, you gonna eat that?"

Edit: Dang Ron. You beat me to the call on dee eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 04:27pm PT
Is Johnny aka Johansolo?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 04:28pm PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
1 1/2. Beehay aka Brad
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. (reserved)
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. Johnny aka Johannsolo
72. Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77. Gary Carpenter
78. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
79. Mo's brother
80. Matt
81. Dave Evans aka Dee ee
82. Anxious Melancholy
83. Diablo aka Jeff Almadovar
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 6, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
Is Johnny aka Johansolo?

I suspect they are one and the same.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 04:56pm PT
Okay, the plot thickens...Dee ee states he's #2 on the list. If this is so, then Dee ee is Rick Piggot?
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 6, 2010 - 05:08pm PT
Dave Evans is Dee ee, put him LOW on the list, he'll be there sandbagging all the youngin's. If Raker show's........I'll feed him! Don't want to scare anyone away!
Peace
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jan 6, 2010 - 05:50pm PT
Other side of the road from Woodson...

Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Jan 6, 2010 - 05:59pm PT
Offwhite,

That last photo isn't revisionist history is it? Lol
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jan 6, 2010 - 06:15pm PT
I was just givin' Bee Hay a hard time!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 6, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
Ron, you're going to feed Raker????

Can't be done. You'll go broke first.
scuffy b

climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
Jan 6, 2010 - 07:04pm PT
No, Klimmer, his swami always rides up when he's soloing...
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 07:59pm PT
Pssst, Beehay, look at the list!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jan 6, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
Yeah, I don't know if I even have a scan with the top rope still in it, I p'shopped it out as a birthday present for BVB back when he was still building his "american legend, bishes" schtick. Here's a further away shot of the same route, showing the crack size that Mr. Scuffy's bound to find appealing...

ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 6, 2010 - 09:02pm PT
Cheap Mexican food Henny! Get his stomach full of cheap beans, tortillas and lard, then I hand him off to you for the night! Fart city for you and lots of laughs for me! Come on, last time I saw Rob, he was skinny as schit.....how much can the "hat rack" eat anyway?
Peace
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
Met James, aka F10, at Santee Boulders Tuesday. Saw the "F.R.O.G." pack and some gray and figured I was watching an old timer in action!
scuffy b

climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
Jan 6, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
Hey, that Everest crack looks like a good one.

Let's see if I rose to the challenge properly...


http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=161163&tn=40

The original banter may be worthwhile...
F10

Trad climber
e350
Jan 6, 2010 - 11:31pm PT
More Everest photos

Photo credit, Tom Scott


Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 6, 2010 - 11:35pm PT
I wanna do that one!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2010 - 12:32am PT
bump
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 7, 2010 - 02:53am PT
Add my name to the list. I used to climb at that hill from 84-96. Now I just mountain bike around the thing. I can talk Dan Haughelstine to come out. Do the Lindners still live at the bottom? Dan said he heard Rick was into road biking or something. It would be really cool if Rick showed up. I haven't seen him since vegas in 97. I might be heading up there to belay Henny on sunday afternoon. Time to break out the scarpas.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2010 - 08:54am PT
I just ran into Elkie Lindner hiking the mountain for they, Tom and her, are back INCONUS and she said she'd pass the word.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2010 - 09:00am PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
1 1/2. Beehay aka Brad
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. (reserved)
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. Johnny aka Johannsolo
72. Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77. Gary Carpenter
78. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
79. Mo's brother
80. Matt
81. Dave Evans aka Dee ee
82. Anxious Melancholy
83. Diablo aka Jeff Almadovar
84. REIGN1 aka Donny Bedford
85. Roger Barnes
86.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 7, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
OK, I'll rat someone out. REIGN 1 = Donny Bedford.

I second REIGN 1, I hope someone knows how to reach Rick Piggot, or already has. Anybody know if he's still in the Reno area? That's the last I heard of his whereabouts.

Has anybody done Exit Stage Left 11c, the classic Bedford problem on the Uncertainty Principle block? Traverse straight left past Kurtains a ways, then pretty much straight up the face. Good, good stuff! The rating proves Woodson has enough sand to fill up some bags.
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 7, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
Your killing me Hensel!
Are you still up for an afternoon hike up that old ass road on sunday?
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 7, 2010 - 02:56pm PT
Hopefully my tips will hold up better this time. Last week they got so hammered that they took until yesterday to quit hurting. Bottom line: old ass wimp.

So Donny, explain this to me. Kurtains is 12a, right? I thought that without a doubt Exit Stage Left was harder. Uncertainty Principle is given 11c and there is ZERO doubt it's easier than Exit Stage Left. So what's wrong with this picture -->> Exit Stage Left, 11c. It's like calling Slap You Silly 11b. Even Powell wouldn't go that far overboard... or would he?
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 7, 2010 - 03:42pm PT
Henny,
I remember the first time me and Verdugo met you and KP at the rubidoux parking lot and started hiking. We ran into Tim Powell and the first thing he said was, "did those guys your going to sandbag today ever show up?"
I don't think we ever got on anything over 5.10b that day. hahaha
Has anyone done the bolted face on the big grunt chimney lately? When I ride my bike up there I never see chalk on it. That's another classic 5.11b-12.a lead. There is still lots of potential on that hill.
Somebody was asking about a couple of leads on the northeast side down from the fall semester area. I forget the names but they both are pretty good climbs. There is a pretty good slab to the right of fall semester called I think "jenny after school". Starving in stereo was always good to.

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
Wow, Donny Bedford...long time no see! Maybe I can tag along with you guys. Any chance of it happening on Saturday? Drop me an email either way with info if possible.
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 7, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
I can't make it for saturday. Mountain biking and supercross opener at anaheim is this saturday.
Sunday henny said he'd be getting worked on that diamond shaped rock above that first turn where you can see the san diego smog. I'm uncertain about what time but I think it will be around noon.
I haven't climbed in over 12 years so henny said he would put me on every tips face and meat grinder crack out there. Hope he can out run my bike after this! hahaha
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 7, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
I'll be getting worked hiking up the road to that diamond shaped face is more like it. Oh yeah, there's a plan for REIGN 1. You betcha.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 7, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
Yeah that last comment by Darrel............sandbag! I would imagine yer in pretty good climbin' shape! Never knew you NOT to be! Watch out you guys, if yer meeting him on Sunday, I already told him I'm in for belaying or spectating if I make it.
Peace
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 7, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
I don't know if he's really a sandbagger. If you look closely at all the pictures Powell has taken of henny, you will be able to tell KP is really good at photoshop. hahaha
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 7, 2010 - 10:18pm PT
Mostly it's just about getting out, and doing whatever you can. The smack talk is fun though.

Bedford...don't make me do it...
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2010 - 10:59pm PT
Things r looking good people, looking real good!
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 7, 2010 - 11:06pm PT
Do what? Henny I don't know what your talking about. I've been out of this sport so long I guess I missed some coded message or something.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 8, 2010 - 12:28am PT
Yeah Gary.....looking gud, yer doing a good thing and it'll be a good thing this shindig!
Peace
Dimes

Social climber
Thinking about Retirement
Jan 8, 2010 - 12:30am PT
Hey Reign 1, this birdie called me tonight and suggested I visit this thread. And oh how glad I am that I did-I fired up the computer (think Photoshop time) searched the memrobilia box and created, well the composite image that you see below. Yes, the very shoes that sent 5.10a On The Outside and Slap You Silly on their very first try. Oh how humble I am.

Head of the MHU



BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Jan 8, 2010 - 12:37am PT
Adidas Country's

Green Dot

Shoe Goo
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 8, 2010 - 12:48am PT
i was more of a "scats" guy. ran 'em stock, too. so sw0le.
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 8, 2010 - 12:49am PT
See Henny, If dimes was able to do slap you silly in those clapped out track shoes, it has to only be rated 11.b or maybe 10.c. I did 10.a on the outside in my lava domes.
I did a steep climb you are meeting me at in my asics without the cheating rubber that Dimes had to use.
You poor guys must have bumped your heads way to many times. haha
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 8, 2010 - 12:52am PT
Hey Bob...Those Scats were cool!! Yeah and I used to run some laps on this classic .10c in stock trainers...
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 8, 2010 - 01:14am PT
Put Dan haughelstine on that list. I might need back up.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2010 - 02:05am PT
1. ? Ron Kauk
1 1/2. Beehay aka Brad
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. (reserved)
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. Johnny aka Johannsolo
72. Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77. Gary Carpenter
78. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
79. Mo's brother
80. Matt
81. Dave Evans aka Dee ee
82. Anxious Melancholy
83. Diablo aka Jeff Almadovar
84. REIGN1 aka Donny Bedford
85. Roger Barnes
86. Dan Hauglestine
87. em knOt aka ?
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Jan 8, 2010 - 04:47am PT
is there room for one more BAWC oWf@rt wheezin geezer?
(if so, please add me to the list--those cracks look beeeeee-eautifull!)

em@geezersRus
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2010 - 10:57am PT
bump
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 8, 2010 - 12:48pm PT
After reading the last handful of posts a few things are pretty obvious.

 Nobody should be wearing anything but tennis shoes at the shindig.
 It's a good thing the shindig doesn't happen till late March, cause it appears some people are going to need every minute till then to work on their smack talk.

Starving in Stereo was mentioned upstream. Who put that problem up?
Edit: and if someone has pictures of it - post 'em up.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 8, 2010 - 12:53pm PT
you'll love, it Em!

any chance that that "Jason" is Jason Sands the Phoenician? if not, some one (wideload, Sooze??) should hip him to this!
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 8, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
Henny, You and powell should maybe think about concentrating on to first two small boulders at the bottom and then attempt the hike up to painted boulder and camp there all weekend. I'm sure those beginner boulders will give you two a challenge for a few days. As far as shoes go, I just might have to sport my tennis shoes because I don't think my fat size 11 feet will fit into those size 8 shoes anymore. haha
I guess we'll see what skillz you still have on sunday. Don't worry about me. I don't have any skills and never did! Man,sure wish I had some photos of me hauling you up all those steep routes in the 90's. hahaha
Johannsolo

climber
Jan 8, 2010 - 03:42pm PT
Starving is on the right, visible from the swithchback just past Big Grunt. I think I pointed it out to you last weekend. I went chopping around there a couple of weeks ago but have yet to get on it. Here is a picture I found on rockclimbing.com
Johannsolo

climber
Jan 8, 2010 - 03:57pm PT
We've been wandering around the boulders near the fire road at the bottom of the hill, down at the bottom of the gully from Seminar wall. A stones throw off the road, just before the switchback where the dirt road goes North, is a boulder with a very nice and hard left to right lay back crack. Pretty much horizontal for a few moves with almost no feet then easy when the crack turns vertical. On the face to the left are some vertical cracks in kinda dirty rock. Anyone have any idea what I'm talking about as it must have been done. I'll try to get some pics of it this weekend.
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 8, 2010 - 04:29pm PT
I'm gonna ride my bike up there this afternoon and scope out the place. There seems to be a lot of potential on the north side and it's easy to get to now that they have a single track all around the hill.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 8, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
Johnny, yeah I remember you showing it to me as I didn't remember where it was at the time. I've done it once, years ago. I couldn't remember who put it up, and thought it might be cool to see any good pictures of it. Thanks for the picture.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 8, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
Pictures. We need more pictures in this thread.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jan 8, 2010 - 09:13pm PT
Has everyone started training for upcoming Shindig?



err, was this what you meant Henny?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 8, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
sw0le!
Johannsolo

climber
Jan 8, 2010 - 10:39pm PT
Anyone know this one? The rope may give some info.
Johannsolo

climber
Jan 8, 2010 - 10:43pm PT
Or this one.
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Jan 8, 2010 - 10:56pm PT
Training?

You're G#d D*&m right I'm training! I just hope I don't get stupid, and pull somethin'...


bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 8, 2010 - 10:59pm PT
left side of the airstream slab?

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
isn't this thing down by syncopation?

Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
Brad looks like he's having a great training session...
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
Some of us have been getting pretty serious about our diet...


BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:05pm PT
Others, not so much...


Johannsolo

climber
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:23pm PT
You got it BVB. This one been done?
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:31pm PT
pretty sure it has but can't remember specifics. i know people were getting on it. i remember trying it once and not being able to do it. i think eppi showed it to me. it's got some crimpy black knobs and extremely smeary footholds, right?
F10

Trad climber
e350
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:33pm PT
Some secret training at JT

JB TS JA

BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:40pm PT
We use that guy in the middle for a hockey goal.
Johannsolo

climber
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:41pm PT
Here's another view....
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:45pm PT
I knew it was TV Screen, I knew it...


Here's the guy we use for a backstop. (you have to follow along)


Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
Wow, BeeHay...How come Elvis has a Camel Toe???
F10

Trad climber
e350
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:57pm PT
Keep an eye on BeeHay around the women,

Here he is stalking a few

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 9, 2010 - 12:11am PT
I knew it was TV Screen, I knew it...

oh yeah, the last pic was emergency broadcat system. i was talking about the one before that -- down by syncopation. i couldn't do it.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 9, 2010 - 01:53am PT
Best watch out girls...
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2010 - 02:07am PT
Was up on Woodson today...looks like you guys topped out on that smooth arete problem / Epi creation on the inside of the Painted Boulder switch-back, for I saw chalk to the top. Stopped there myself and pulled it off twice out of a total of about TEN tries, ugh! My tips are sensitive just typing this! I smacked my leg/kneecap about four times just trying to get off the ground, sheesh! My toe hurts like the dickens but am able to edge okay. Back step with the left foot and cracks, forget it! Day of rest then back up there on Sunday!
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Jan 9, 2010 - 02:19am PT
Bobby Brown arete.
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Jan 9, 2010 - 02:21am PT
Yes, 'tusi, they did run. They always do.

BH
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2010 - 05:04am PT
That small boulder on the inside of the Painted Boulder switch-back is the Bobby Brown arete Brad? Is that indeed a Epi creation?
Johannsolo

climber
Jan 9, 2010 - 09:33am PT
Any info on this one? The dike on the same boulder as Shawn's Knobs. It faces the road is very obvious when walking by that switchback. Mike's topo lables this the Eppulator but I've seen posts that that problem is the steep pinchy traverse with the dyno at the end around the back.
BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Jan 9, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
I should've used a ?, I was guessing. BH
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 9, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
Just foolin' around with a new Gif Animator Brad...You should see the one of The Fish...
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 9, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
Any info on this one? The dike on the same boulder as Shawn's Knobs. It faces the road is very obvious when walking by that switchback. Mike's topo lables this the Eppulator but I've seen posts that that problem is the steep pinchy traverse with the dyno at the end around the back.

the dike facing the road on the west side is eppicenter, B1. the steep pinchy traverse with the dyno facing shawn's knobs, hell i don't think that thing ever had a name but it's B1 as well.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jan 9, 2010 - 05:53pm PT
Duuude, you just made post 420.


bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 9, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
bing!
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 9, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
I dug out some gear. I have two pairs of lace up scarpas. One pair is black and purple and the other pair is black and green. I remember doing Excelsior in the green ones. Those things a damn tight. I don't think I can keep them on for more than a few minutes now. haha
Has chalk changed at all? I still have some bags of that metolius chalk that came in the white bags. Tomorrow at woodson should be comedy.
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Jan 9, 2010 - 07:49pm PT
Someone called for more pictures...









Johannsolo

climber
Jan 9, 2010 - 10:40pm PT
This is the layback I mentioned down by the fireroad just before the hairpin. We did it today but I would assume has been done before.
.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
That looks like a cool gem you found Johnny! I don't know of it.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 10, 2010 - 01:04am PT
yeah -- that thing looks swank. i've never, ever seen it before, or heard of it. might be an f.a. dude.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 10, 2010 - 01:07am PT
crisp layback

and nice pix Crusher



I can't believe the floatability of this thread. ID has really kept this going.

bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 10, 2010 - 01:15am PT
where exactly is it? is it visible from the road on the way to the Y cracks?
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 10, 2010 - 01:30am PT
Off the dirt road on the left just before the switchback where the fireroad heads North. It is on a boulder behind the 30' high triangular boulder with a right to left leaning crack on the side that faces the paved road down in the gully below Seminar wall.
Sorry but a little blurry.
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 10, 2010 - 01:37am PT
Rick would know if he or lydia did it. I remember when Lydia was trying to get a first ascent there and the both of them were spending time in that area. I know where you are talking about. The mountain bike trail goes up that fire road and makes a right turn north. There is a trail that heads west at the turn.

If it is a F.A. Congrat's!!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2010 - 02:09am PT
Way cool undulating face for the feet!

Hey, I am nothing, I just came up with an idea and you guys ran with it. If it wasn't for you this thread'd be nowhere!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2010 - 02:34am PT
Santee Boulders sunset today...



Taken with my Blackberry Storm
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 10, 2010 - 10:32am PT
Yeah Gary, sunset last night was spectacular. I was helping with dinner, and bailed to watch it develop, pretty to say the least. You going up to Woodson today? Henny is going, I won't be able to make it, some other stuff has come up I have to tend to. Have fun if you go and keep this thread going, it's gonna be a great time in March!
Peace
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2010 - 02:37pm PT
I WAS goin but things came up as well as I am in Vegas as I write this stopping for lunch, pick up sister from airport then down to Golden Valley AZ to spend time with my Dad, Bro and Sisters till Wed. I'm pretty ripped from bouldering and need the days off to heal, especcially my toe! I'll be back on Wednesday.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2010 - 05:08pm PT
Okay, sister wants to stop at a casino...imagine that!
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 10, 2010 - 05:26pm PT
Ha! Spend a few bucks on the gambling, WIN BIG!
Peace
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
Bump
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 10, 2010 - 10:43pm PT
this thread needs more woodson climbing pics. get busy!

does bouldering get much better than this?

BeeHay

Trad climber
San Diego CA
Jan 10, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
How 'bout we start at the bottom, work our way up...


bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 10, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
bad scan ofthe crux on vice-principal's office

REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 11, 2010 - 12:05am PT

Today Henny getting the onsight solo of Hard as nails. I think it used to be rated 5.11c
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 11, 2010 - 12:08am PT

Uncertainity principle
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 11, 2010 - 12:14am PT
It was good to see Hensel today. Damn, that old man can still crank it out. It's been 14 years since I last climbed. All I did was climb the 10.a and 5.7 on tower 2. hahaha Even those climbs felt hard!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2010 - 01:22am PT
Wow, I'm not worthy! I've always thought of soloing Hard As Nails but never committed. Now Henny solos it on-sight?! Impressive! What a great route though to hear of such an ascent. I call it 11b only for the starting sequence. Good job guys and great pictures!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 11, 2010 - 01:26am PT
Fun day, it was good to see old friends again for the first time in about 15 years. It ended up almost perfect late in the afternoon. Nice temps, almost too good to be true.

Nice pictures of Chas stylin' the Uncertainty Principle. I like that first one. It's cool how that one picture brings out the holds so well, you can pick out quite a bit of both Uncertainty Principle and Kurtains. Man those things are great! Wish we could see that (sand) 11c (bag) to the left so we could get it wired from the comfort of our armchairs.

I think it used to be rated 5.11c
Why is it that any time I can do something everybody immediately downrates it? Bummer.

I can't believe I never went down there before. What an absolutely beautiful thin crack Hard as Nails is.
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 11, 2010 - 01:43am PT
Henny, I think that sand 11c-12b bag has only had a couple ascents.
After you raced up Kurtins for certin, I thought for sure you were going to give it a go.
I forgot to add your biggest coup of the day! You soloing that wicked hard face on tower 2 so I could get a top rope! Thanks!!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 11, 2010 - 01:46am PT
Remember Headfirst In the Bushes? Johnny did a public service and chopped the base of that baby out again. It had become an overgown nightmare. You wouldn't have needed to worry about ending up in the bushes because you never would have been able to get through the bushes to try it in the first place.

Has that boulder grown and doubled in height over the years or something? What's up with that? Or maybe my memory has shrunk over the years, who knows.

Edit: Oh yeah, the base of Greg's Face has also been opened up again, so that's now ready and waiting for the shindig.
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 11, 2010 - 02:04am PT
Man, I still can't get over all the huge pads everybody carries now. I was watching one of the guys trying lemon ciffon and poping off onto a 3'x3'chushy pad. I remember flinging off that greasy knob in the sun and having to dodge the stumps and bushes on impact. Times have certainly changed. haha
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 11, 2010 - 02:16am PT
Like was said though, if they'd been around BITD everybody would have used 'em... fact, jack.
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 11, 2010 - 02:28am PT
I agree. Could have saved toes, ankles, knees having those back then.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 11, 2010 - 02:36am PT
Hey how's Chaz doin'? Haven't seen him in a while, say hi if you guys see him again soon. Is he coming to the thingy in March? Would be good to see him. Sorry I missed you today Darrel, some schit came up, had to stay close to home. See you in March.
Peace
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2010 - 02:37pm PT
Wasn't downgrading your ascent Darrell, was just rating it as I see it. And again, who am I to say, you just soloed it! Most of the crack is a lesson in pain control!
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 11, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
It was a tongue in cheek smack talk jab at REIGN 1 for his use of the words "used to be rated". I had to spend the afternoon listening to two smack talkers without having any reinforcement/back-up of my own. My ears were burning by the time the day was over. ha. If that was any indication of what the shindig will be like it could be brutal.
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 11, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
Henny, You and Powell used to have smack talk game. But you guys ran into pro smack talkers. Your best off just licking your wounds and try to come up with something (or anything) to smack talk about. hahaha

Lucky for you that you still climb pretty good and that speaks enough smack for you right now.

Remember the meadows trip one July. When Bob Hutchingson saw my guide booksitting on a rock and handed it to me saying it must be mine because it only had one tick in it? hahaha


Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jan 11, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
A man, a hat, a crack; it doesn't get much simpler than this

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
What to do in Golden Valley AZ?....Absolutely nothing!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jan 11, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
rbolton

Social climber
The home for...
Jan 11, 2010 - 06:38pm PT
Cluck, cluck, cluck...

Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Jan 11, 2010 - 06:39pm PT
Well done, Henny.
What do you think it would be rated at Rubidoux, 5.10a?
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 11, 2010 - 06:54pm PT
Rick, you trying to just stir things up, get me in trouble, or both? It's already hostile enough down there when you're part of a Rubidoux raiding party.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 11, 2010 - 09:07pm PT
i always considered hard as nails to be stout 11+. i think it's harder than hear my train, which is the 11c benchmark problem at woodson.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 11, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
REIGN 1

Gym climber
Carlsbad, Ca
Jan 12, 2010 - 12:47am PT
The train is 11.c?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 02:10am PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. BeeHay aka Brad H.
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud aka Claudio
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny (with psychiatrist)
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. Johnny aka Johannsolo
72. Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77. Gary Carpenter
78. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
79. Mo's brother
80. Matt
81. Dave Evans aka Dee ee
82. Anxious Melancholy
83. Diablo aka Jeff Almadovar
84. REIGN1 aka Donny Bedford
85. Roger Barnes
86. Dan Hauglestine
87. em knOt aka Nurse Ratchett
88. Randy Vogel
89. Daphne
90-91. ? Tom and Elkie Lindner
92. ? Chris Lindner

salad

climber
Escondido
Jan 12, 2010 - 02:13am PT
Gary - thanks for the call, sorry I did not get back to you. I work M-F
8-5 so Friday was impossible and Sunday I was up in LA meeting my cousin's new baby. Keep pinging me though, if you dont mind!!

jg
REIGN 1

Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
Jan 12, 2010 - 02:18am PT
Henny, When do you think your going to woodson again? I'll try to make sure I'm out of town so you can climb in peace. The nails 11.a? Sounds about right. Haughelstine is trying to get me to commit to a weekend trip to jacks city? I guess it's some crag out in the middle BFE or something. Supposed to be a confidence building crag? If so I would think Dimes must have climbed there.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 02:28am PT
Guys, come on, Hard As Nails harder than IHMT? Good Lord no! The start to H.A.N. is a bounce up to a good face hold (RH) to another good edge (LH), then requiring face climbing technique to a crappy/weird, thumbs down/thumb-cam finger jam (LH), which enables you to balance up to your feet on to the same face holds (11b). The crack above, IMHO, is 5.10d/5.11 (with pain) to the top. IHMT is so much more powerful and thin/overhanging at the start. Kids these days are calling it 5.12 but I can't climb 5.12 so I rate it 11c/11d and, I agree, is definitely the benchmark for Woodson 5.11c's.

On that note, for your enjoyment, here's the video I and a friend did in the recent past of IHMT, for those who haven't seen it already on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi9AL8ztOMs



Henny, I'd love to do a video of you on Hard As Nails!

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 02:57am PT
Hey ya'll, let me know (email or here) if you are bringing a friend(s)/family so I can add them to the list and account for them too.
REIGN 1

Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
Jan 12, 2010 - 03:11am PT
My train is only a couple of power moves to a 5.9 crack. If I remember right woodson has always been rated on the single hardest move of a climb. Nails is different in that it is a technical face crack that sticky rubber made easier. So I'd say I Hear My Train A Comin is solid 11.c, Hard as Nails is right there at 11.c+
Ratings are always subjective. Like if you stack enough pads under a reach problem, it becomes much easier to do the moves. The only thing that matters is if you are having fun.
REIGN 1

Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
Jan 12, 2010 - 03:20am PT
You might want to add Henny's psychiatrist to the list. Cuz by the time this shindig comes around, he's gonna be needing one! hahaha
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 03:25am PT
Gosh Donny, you make IHMT sound easy! Good point though, a concensus is definitely the way to rate a climb to account for the subjectiveness. And, as "back-in-the-day" climbers, you and I both know we can't throw in the pad excuse for they didn't exist back then and everything was a standing start off our piece of carpet, lol! Good to hear that you and Dan are going to be there. It'll bring back great memories seeing you guys. Thanks again.

P.S. Henny's psychiatrist added. Btw, Troy Wold from Ramona says "Hi"! Didn't Troy say that you're riding bikes, as he is now, as well?
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 12, 2010 - 03:53am PT
I think there could be differences of opinion as to the rating of Hard as Nails depending on whether one started it static or dynamic. A static start is the crux (obvious).

Dude (Donny), my shrink is already on the list. Didn't you see his name? Dimes. And you wonder why I'm crazy.
You seem a little confused, maybe he could fit you into his schedule... couldn't hurt...
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 12, 2010 - 09:42am PT
"The start to H.A.N. is a bounce up to a good face hold (RH)"???
Not the way to start. As Henny states, the crux is pulling on statically. Bouncing is a taint in my book and avoids the hardest move. It's all about style.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 10:23am PT
Yup, just a quick "pop" off the ground to my right hand, "voila" done! Yeah, I teach static moves over dynamic but as you know Johnny in some instances the section of rock is void of holds and dynamics are required to overcome that section. Or, dynamics is a more efficient way of climbing. Sure, there may be a static sequence but why if you can get through that section much quicker by a dynamic move, bragging rights? For some of us, that can't pull off those "phenom" moves, we have to do something if we're ever going to get a chance to experience what is above, ie; bounce, jump, dyno, tree standing/shoulder standing, hangdogging, rap inspection, inspecting the topout prior, stacking pads (this is one I won't do), and cheatstones, ie; Go With The Flow. I've done, and will do, all these things in order to experience the route. I'm sure you would frown on what it took me to eventually get My Train but that's okay too for all I wanted was to be like you guys a bit too early in my ability level. Eventually most of these antics, as I learn the techniques, are eliminated but often I never get that good. I'll have to hang around you guys a bit more to let some of "that" rub off on me, haha!
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 12, 2010 - 11:37am PT
I have no problem with dynamic moves on a climb or jump starts when there are no holds. There are holds to start statically on H.A.N, it just makes the climb harder. We pretty much need to invalidate your rating as you avoid one of if not the hardest move. Also, no difference between jumping to holds and stepping off stacked pads. Either way, you are only cheating yourself.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 12, 2010 - 12:01pm PT
pretty sure i did a little hop on the start of hard as nails...nailing that thing totally static is the kind of sw0le stuff that only a henny can do.

no pads though, and i'm sure even 4 or 5 inces of foam boost could make a pretty bid difference on that rig.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 12, 2010 - 01:30pm PT
There are two valid ratings for it, whatever they are. The one used is a personal choice and if happy with it, great. For me anything dynamic seemed a personal admission of not being able to do the hard opening move, which was obviously doable. Pretty much that simple.

I think where caution can be exercised is in saying a problem is only the easier rating, without acknowledging the alternative or knowing how it was done. The harder start is just as valid.

Preferring the harder start because of the challenge, and then rating it accurately, doesn't neccessarily have anything to do with pride.

I'll restate this: Hard as Nails is an absolutely beautiful thin crack.

Too bad it has to have a rating.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jan 12, 2010 - 01:41pm PT
Too bad it has to have a rating.

This is true of many things in life.

One of the benefits of not running an 8a.nu scorecard, is that I don't care what the number is for some particular bouldering sequence.

I did HMT so long ago that I can barely remember it. I don't think I ever even saw that HAN deal, but it looks cool.
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
OR
Jan 12, 2010 - 02:02pm PT

Even in a competition, ratings don't really matter. Like most quantifications, they seldom tell the real story.

In the early days at Woodson, Bros, ratings took last place and fun took first.
REIGN 1

Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
Jan 12, 2010 - 02:08pm PT
Henny did hard as nails as clean as I've ever seen it done. The rating thing between me and him is a running joke from way back.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 12, 2010 - 02:39pm PT
In the early days at Woodson, Bros, ratings took last place and fun took first.
true dat. still true, i think. ratings are little more than a goofy sideshow. woodson probs rock domes, regardless of the rating.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 12, 2010 - 03:02pm PT
A goofy sideshow. Yes.

I'd like to be done with the Hard as Nails rating discussion. On the bottom line who cares how hard it is, or how hard someone else thinks it is. Number talk has started to ruin my buzz. It should be about a beautiful thin crack, Woodson, and fun times. End of that story.

Now... Let's take this thread somewhere else, eh? How about some more pictures?
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 12, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
BVB, you gotta remember that back in the day we were soloing everything and calling it .10c...Even Driving South...(Oh and I did notice your soloing shot of Lie Detector...What would that be then? .11a?)
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 12, 2010 - 03:30pm PT
henny, i'm blown away you never saw hard as nails before this weekend. what other gems have you missed out on!?

and you did it on sight...uh-oh. oh my. ummmm, er, i may have to bow out of this whole debacle to avoid terminal humiliation at the hands of the roubdouxiers!~
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 12, 2010 - 04:20pm PT
Don't you dare bow out. I'm hoping you'll do more than one day, regardless of how hard you climb the first/second day because I still don't think I can make Saturday.

I've missed plenty of gems, without doubt. The Sail, Starface, PhD, ..., need I go on? I hope to work a few of them off. I wish I would have done more when I lived closer, it's an effort to get there now from Bishop.

This thread has rekindled my interest in Woodson. The stuff is just so good. In my book it may be the best bouldering/toproping area in SoCal.

Edit: Gary, Looking Sketchy There (#14) = Randy Vogel (#88).
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 04:32pm PT
Hey Darrell, uhemm...thought your finger was healing from a tendon injury?:


From: Darrell Hensel
Sent: Mon 12/28/09 1:41 AM

"I'm currently running a ligament injury to a finger which will probably severely limit the amount of thin cracks I can do."


And then he solos Hard As Nails on a ligament injury?! I smell a mole!



P.S. Got the correction Darrell, thanks.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 04:37pm PT
The List:

1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8. Salad (post climb party)
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. BeeHay aka Brad H.
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. ? looking sketchy there
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud aka Claudio
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny (with psychiatrist)
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss
59. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. Johnny aka Johannsolo
72. Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77. Gary Carpenter
78. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
79. Mo's brother
80. Matt
81. Dave Evans aka Dee ee
82. Anxious Melancholy
83. Diablo aka Jeff Almadovar
84. REIGN1 aka Donny Bedford
85. Roger Barnes
86. Dan Hauglestine
87. em knOt aka Nurse Ratchett
88. Daphne
89-90. ? Tom and Elkie Lindner
91. ? Chris Lindner
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 12, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
I believe I also mentioned something about exercising some self control to stay off cracks. Obviously I have none! See how magnetic HAN is? Haha.

Look at the pic of HAN, you can see the tape on my left ring finger. Those who were there heard a bunch of whining about a thumbs up left hand finger lock about half way up. Unfortunately that got me no sympathy, only a bunch of smack talk.

Thumb down, not bad. Thumb up, not so good. Face climbing, no problem at all. Just do what you can.
REIGN 1

Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
Jan 12, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
Henny, Next time I meet you up there, I'll just try to keep you on the wide cracks and low angle faces. We have to hit up the sail. I think that is about the only route I've put up that you haven't repeated.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 07:43pm PT
All right, I've got a question/offer...Darrell, have you tried/done Mother Superior? If not, want to hit it? If it's old news to you then I've been wanting to lead it. Would you belay and be my motivator? Johnny, Chas, want to work it if you haven't already?


From an article in Mountain Magazine, Issue #106, Mike Geller demonstrates the Leavitation technique on Mother Superior, Mt. Woodson (from http://www.widefetish.com);.
REIGN 1

Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
Jan 12, 2010 - 08:42pm PT
I wouldn't mind trying mother superior.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 12, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
It's a good one!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
Donny, you've tried/done MS, no? The more the merrier for I've been petering out lately on it. My guns fail doing the crux face move near the top. Just humbles me and reminds me that I'm carrying a bit more weight than I use to. I get back in S.D. tomorrow evening and will get myself back in "training mode". Hopefully, we all can meet up there for a bit of humble pie!
REIGN 1

Trad climber
Mt. Woodson, Ca
Jan 12, 2010 - 08:54pm PT
I've done it a bunch. As far as I know there are 3 exits to topping out. The V cracks and going to the right over the bulge. It's a fun lead but you are prety much soloing the thing with that slab right there.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2010 - 09:43pm PT
Hey, what ever happened to Mike Geller? And what about the Hatchett brothers? Is anyone in touch with them and can let them know about this thing? How about you Donny, who else was up there kickin' around back then that isn't already on the list? Btw, the comment I made earlier on Troy Wold, you do know him correct? Troy and Marty?
Johannsolo

climber
Soul Cal
Jan 12, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
Here's a couple of the Sail. Amazing rock formation with picturesque views. Any history/route info on this one? I'll probably hold off on MS till after I do more of the "easier" cracks. Hell, I haven't even done Robbin's crack. Just trying to work my way around the hill and put in my time. Also, you only get one shot at the onsight.
gonamok

Trad climber
poway, ca
Jan 12, 2010 - 10:27pm PT
Add aging local Ron Amick to the list, and pencil me in for bringing a case of beer and the grit n fortitude to get it drank.

Crash pads must be checked at the base of the hill, and any liberty ovals or slung hexes will be confiscated and the owners name put on a dept of obsolescence watch list.

heres an idea... an under30 wimmens stemming competition? could add a bright spot to a day fulla codgers who all climb better n me.

I may seem disgrunteled, but are we ever truly grunteled? Do we even want to be? And how does this tie into al gores global warming deal? We will explore this and the impact of little chocolate donuts on atmospheric carbon levels. Please do your part by not exhaling. Thank you.

r
henny

Social climber
The Past
Jan 12, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Very cool. I was about to ask if anyone had pictures of the Sail, and presto, they appear. Johnny, I think Donny said he put up a problem there so he should know the history. So, whats the story? More than one problem? Is the right side an arete or just rounding of the face? Hard to tell from that second picture (and I assume that's the business problem). The first pic sure has a nice feel to it. Dang, dang, dang! I already need to go back up there!

bvb, any thoughts on other classic gems? Maybe some that are off the beaten path a little.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jan 12, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
Dang Gary, looking like it's gonna be a great weekend. You Still need my help??? I told you this would get outa control on it's own!
Peace
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 12:17am PT
Ron Gomez...When Vertical Hold gets back to me I think I'm going to need a confirmed name(s) of those that will be putting on the slide show(s). If you could provide me a "back-in-the-day" name(s) via email, that'd help. What do you think about keeping at least one of the presenters identity a surprise until we arrive at the gym Friday night?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 12:19am PT
1. ? Ron Kauk
2. ? Rick Piggot
3. Greg Cameron aka eeyonkee
4. Bob Van Belle aka BVB
5. ? Mike Paul aka Watusi
6. Greg Epperson (our local "famous" photographer)
7. Klimmer
8. Off White
8.1 Salad
9. ? Phantom X
10. ? Zip
11. Adam Kimmerly (photographer/ACSD)
12. BeeHay aka Brad H.
13. Michael aka Oldcragger
14. looking sketchy there aka Randy Vogel
15-16. Steve Grossman and Mimi
17. Mr. Dick Cilley
18. Ron Gomez
19. Levi
20. M. David
21. mungeclimber
22. Jaybro
23. Josh Higgins (ACSD)
24. blr
25. Christian Griffith
26. Pam aka Shanti
27. ? Klk
28. ScuffyB
29-30. Mr. & Mrs. Crusher
31. Bruckman
32. Jeff Leads - (Prana / ACSD)
33. ? Bob D'Antonio
34. ? Matt
35. Cragman
36. Dirt Claud aka Claudio
37. Sonja aka s.d
38. Nick aka Gonzo Chemist
39. ? immanti
40. Eliot Carlsen
41. Gary aka illusiondweller
42. Randy Leavitt
43. R Bolton
44. Steve Belford
45. Karen Roseme
46. Terry Upton
47. ? Mooser
48. Kevin Powell aka Dimes
49. Dr. Sprock
50. Darrell Hensel aka henny (with psychiatrist)
51. M. Fisher
52. S. Girard
53. J. Campbell
54. Chris (surfer)
55. Erik (plumber)
56. Todd Gordon
57. Radical Riley
58. Lynne Leichtfuss (Hosting Post Climb Party Sat. March 20th. Camping At Same Site Still Available 03/19-20, MUST CONFIRM VIA EMAIL BY FEB 10!)
59. Mike (http://www.ClimbinCalifornia.com);
60. Pyrosis aka Tavis
61. Jeff Gicklhorn aka Seekthereason
62. James aka F10
63. ? Bluering
64. Tom Scott
65. GDavis
66. Dan Beal
67. ? Ed Hartouni
68. Andy Redding aka bajaandy
69. Porkchop_express
70. Chas
71. Johnny aka Johannsolo
72. Melissa
73. Schaffer
74. Nefarious
75. Tim
76. Jason
77. Gary Carpenter
78. "Mo" aka Reese Montana
79. Mo's brother
80. Matt
81. Dave Evans aka Dee ee
82. Anxious Melancholy
83. Diablo aka Jeff Almadovar
84. REIGN1 aka Donny Bedford
85. Roger Barnes
86. Dan Hauglestine
87. em knOt aka Nurse Ratchett
88. Daphne
89-90. ? Tom and Elkie Lindner
91. ? Chris Lindner
92. Gonamuck aka Ron Amick
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 12:23am PT
Ron, I just saw your thread "san diego fossils n glory day remnants" and left you a comment to come to this site to have your name put on the list, then came back to this thread and voila, there you are, imagine that!

P.S. I added you to the masses.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Jan 13, 2010 - 12:29am PT
So Gary, been out of town. Have you nailed the logistics ? If you need a location for party or people let me know. Peace, lynne
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 12:51am PT
Lynne, tentatively you are the highest bidder and have the best and biggest party accommodations unless someone outbids you (figuratively speaking). You said approx. (125) people for a party correct? And can you accommodate overnight campers post climb slide show, Friday, 19th and post climb party on Saturday, 20th on your property if they chose to? If so, which day(s) and how many tents? Why don't you post this information on this thread for everyone to see and email the same and the directions to your place to me if you would. Thanks so much for your help!