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Tennessee Jed
Trad climber
South Bay
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Apr 23, 2015 - 11:43am PT
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The rock looks so good in that picture fat dad, damn I cant wait to make it up there. I need to get more Ponderosa pancakes mmmm
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 23, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 23, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
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Yup, that place is real purdy.
And the Ponderosa has big portions too. I was just up there a couple of weeks ago enjoying the scenery.
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Tennessee Jed
Trad climber
South Bay
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Apr 23, 2015 - 01:17pm PT
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from dome rock
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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needles man
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Gate is closed as of monday but the road is in good shape early season.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Funny thing. I thought I really knew my way around The Needles, and making a good guide would be achievable in a year or two without really sweating it. Well I started taking pictures and sorting things out in 2009. Six years ago this summer.
Today there are one or two things on Voodoo which I have to figure out how to represent (should be done tonight) and The Needles is done. Dome and Hermit are more straightforward, and I have a lot of those done already, so in a month or so the whole deal will be in the publisher's hands. Graphic design is being done by a pro (who knows climbing.)
FWIW I was among those who were vocally opposed to the release of the 1992 guide. We all thought the area would become too popular, that the mystique would be lost. But what happened was that for one season some new people showed up, the types who gear up at the car and have zero clue what they're up for. Most never came back, gym-bags blown off. But a few became friends and partners.
The number of really good climbers has gone up. Climbs like the Warrior and Pyromaniac (that's the correct name) are done several times each season. A couple summers ago two guys did the Warrior and Don Juan in a day. And they were back in camp before dark!
My book is the opposite of a select guide. There are so many great climbs in the Needles which for one reason or another are obscure. And the history there is lost. I've worked tirelessly to sort that out. Some surprises there.
I pray that the book will be useful, informative and fun. Cheers.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I've worked tirelessly to sort that out
Pretty sure that's an understatement! ;-)
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Man, should have sold my old book when I had the chance.
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Good to hear Kris. Beyond stoked for you and the new guide. Thanks for all your hard work as a stuard of the area.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Kris, looking forward to the guide...what an awesome place them Needles. ...I got a story from there if you need one.
Rock on...d.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Kris.... Thanks for fixing tons of bad/old bolts.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Ha. Prolly more like pounds than tons, but the effort goes on this summer. Get on the bandwagon? There are lots of great routes that need new bolts there.
I'm not the only one. Some great guys who told me they'd like to remain anonymous fixed up Liquid Sky, one of the really great classics. Sea of Tranquility has new bolts as well. That's huge.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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T Hocking, That's an early ascent. The FA was 1976, but the route was not exactly famous when you did it. For sure it had three 1/4" bolts on the slab pitch up high. Someone replaced them but added one so there's four now. A lot less pucker factor.
K
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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I'm super stoked to buy your book!!
wicked effort!
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EP
Trad climber
Way Out There
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The Needles are awe inspiring.
I climbed Imaginary Voyage in 1987 as a second on my first steep route after doing Cornflakes and Piece of Cake at the Slabs and Arwen, Anti Jello and Tree Route at the Slabs. Went back and put up an unmemorable route in the East side of Magician with two friends. There is a sort of gully gully with huge flakes about halfway down. 5.8 and scary. The fun part was climbing over the ril on the stairs. This was before Margee.
Went back and climbed the Howling twice.
The wind can blow. Ropes fly. Can't hear the partner.
Love it.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Tad.... If I recall WPOD was talked about at the Weeping Wall Hang that went down almost every Sunday in the late afternoon.... Pre SuperTopo days.
Go Kris Go.... we go drink some killer Champagne when this is a book, right?
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Wow, thanks for the update! Really looking forward to seeing it. If anyone needs a partner in the next few weekends coming up, let me know
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wheatBeer
Social climber
TheBronx
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Sep 24, 2015 - 08:12pm PT
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Where is this guidebook now??
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Oct 25, 2015 - 08:53pm PT
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How's the book coming along? Needles season is winding down...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!