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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2005 - 12:21am PT
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Hola Taco,
I think there's no Needles guide currently in print.
Can you guys give me the names/authors of the out of print guide(s), so I can start looking around for used copies? Anyone got one they want to unload?
Thanks!
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 12:33am PT
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I think Laeger is one name.
Good luck with that. I happen to have partners with the book. Neener neener.
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dank
Trad climber
the pitch above you!
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Sep 29, 2005 - 12:35am PT
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Patrick Paul, Greg Vernon, Sally Moser
ISBN 0-934641-43-9
Published and Distributed by:
Chockstone Press, Inc.
Post Office Box 3505
Evergreen, CO 80439
I'm takin' this book to my grave! SoCal Select has some of the classics in it too!
Good Luck!
Thin Ice, Airy Interlude, Spooky, Fancy Free,
South Face of the Warlock....ahhhh....i need to go back now!!!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2005 - 12:37am PT
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Well maculated, perhaps YOUR partners should become MY partners. Mwuhahahaha!
*burp* and is socal select in print?
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 01:01am PT
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Perhaps they should. But you know, I gave you Meg, and she's a mutual partner/friend. You should give up living in silly Davis and you'd have a lot better access to the good stuff, if you get what I mean.
::wink wink::
OOOOOh, she's frisky tonight!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2005 - 01:05am PT
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What? And leave all my precious choss?
hahaha
Oh wait, maybe I'm single for a reason. Har!
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steelmnkey
climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Sep 29, 2005 - 10:44am PT
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What's stopping SuperTaco from producing a guide to this area?
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 02:27pm PT
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Well, they ARE coming out with another guide.
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climrgrl
Trad climber
SLO, CA
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Sep 29, 2005 - 08:20pm PT
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I've gotten 2 copies through Amazon, using their used book pre-order service. It took about a year per copy, but hey, I have a Needles guidebook (sorry, gave the second one to a friend).
http://s1.amazon.com/exec/varzea/preorder/new/0934641439/ref=dp_order_used/002-9292187-8053652
I'd suggest selecting "Any" for condition, maybe $50 as maximum price, and 12 weeks to keep the order open. Amazon emails you when your order is about to expire, and asks if you want to extend it. Keep clicking yes. Good luck!
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chuey
climber
Ca.
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May 29, 2013 - 10:39am PT
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Any word on a new guidebook?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 29, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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I've been working on a guide for the last three years. It is basically done and going into graphic design after a few more editorial decisions. Kevin Daniels is publishing this book. Y'all can look forward to a high quality informative volume.
This is not something I can rush out. It's a "labor of love," as they say and one thing it will offer which online sources do not have is thorough historical research. Anyway here's how it's laid out:
Table of Contents:
Foreword by EC Joe and Richard Leversee
Acknowledgements
Introduction
About this book
Getting there
Weather
Logistics, camping and accommodations
Rest day activities
Ratings and local ethics
Gear
In an emergency
Climbing history
Geology “The Gift of Granite” by Michael Loughman
About the Author
The Needles
Welcome to The Needles
Approach beta
Magician Saddle
Djin Saddle
Djin-Charlatan Notch
The Main Notch
Witch Warlock Notch
Warlock East Gulley
Dome Rock
Overview and History
Approaches
The Routes
Hermit Spire
Overview and History
Approaches
The Routes
As you can see this book has a narrower scope than previous guides: The Needles, their stately neighbor to the south Dome Rock, and their sister crag to the north, Hermit Spire. Today there are enough climbing areas dispersed throughout the Kern and Tule Canyons that one book covering them all would be a large volume indeed, and only the likes of Norman Clyde would toss such a tome into his backpack.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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May 29, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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I've been working on a guide for the last three years. It is basically done and going into graphic design after a few more editorial decisions.
Wonderful, wonderful news!
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Aerili
climber
SLC, Utah
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May 29, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
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Sweet! By the way, I borrowed a copy of the old guidebook when I went to the Needles and I found it fairly useless. Paying $700+ for something like that? .... hmmmm.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 29, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
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Indeed wonderful news!
thank you KSolem for hard work, good lack with your "labor of love"
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 29, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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I borrowed a copy of the old guidebook when I went to the Needles and I found it fairly useless. I think it's a pretty useful guide. Gets you to the crags, shows you where the routes are; what more do you need? Worth $700? No way. But a decent guide nonetheless.
Having said that, looking forward to Kris' new edition. Maybe that way I can actually confirm whether or not I climbed the Beckey route on Hermit Spire.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 29, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
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The Moser, Vernon, Pat Paul book was a very good effort at the time. As I have found out, The Needles is a very difficult area to represent in a book. It's not that big an area but it is complex. Patrick's Dome Rock coverage is flawless. There are some substantial problems with the routes on Hermit which took a few expeditions and some detective work to sort out. I hope that my decision, to organize and present the Needles routes according to which notch/gully they are approached from (rather than which formation they are on) works well for users of the guide. To me this is the climbers point of view. For example, routes on the east face of Charlatan and Sorcerer are neighbors, while routes on the west faces of those same formations are in an other place entirely.
The book will include some spectacular aerial images taken from Dwight Krolls' plane a few weeks ago. Here's an out-take (sorry, I have to keep the good ones for the book.) I'll say that Dwight is an Ace, and once he got the feel of the air and terrain we got a lot closer than this...
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Aerili
climber
SLC, Utah
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May 29, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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I think it's a pretty useful guide. Gets you to the crags, shows you where the routes are; what more do you need?
That's great. I just found beta hunted down on the web more useful. It's been a while, but I don't remember the approach or route-locating info to even be that exact or helpful in that book. Maybe I'm just a noob.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 29, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
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The first Needles guide was published in 1983 by local pioneers EC Joe and Richard Leversee. This book is a classic, and I believe it is still available in digital form on EC Joes' website (vertical20.com)
This book contains not a single photo. Rather it has beautiful hand drawn topos and typed written route descriptions. Of course due to it's age it does not include any of the newer routes. My copy, which led me to many adventures during the 1980s is a treasured item in my library.
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ec
climber
ca
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May 29, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
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Thx for da props, Kris!
The site has been down. If any of ya want a digital version, I have sh#tloads of them. PM me from the Taco...
 ec
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 29, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
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EC, it is I who thanks you, and Richard, for the beautiful foreword for the new book. Your words are thought provoking and you capture the spirit of the place.
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craig mo
Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
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May 29, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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yep
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 29, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
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Yo Craig, what's up Doc?
That shot taken from Inner Sanctum?
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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May 29, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
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with any luck, I'll be there in two weeks! SO PSYCHED!
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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May 29, 2013 - 11:42pm PT
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Pumpes on new guide. Thanks for the work. Labor of love for sure but a lot of work. Gracias
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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May 30, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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i sent you a email about the book you want.
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ec
climber
ca
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May 30, 2013 - 10:44am PT
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Thx for the PMs. Check your email for mail from vertical20.
ec
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 30, 2013 - 11:02am PT
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Curious about the Needles access. Will the Magician be open for climbing and is the upper road open??
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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May 30, 2013 - 11:23am PT
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The road is open, but requires high clearance. I just went out there last weekend, and it was COLD! Still managed to get in some great climbing though!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 30, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
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Hi Rene, Magician is open. The lookout is gone and the old site is "cleaned up." The stairs are still there, and are off limits. No climbing restrictions though. The road took a real beating last fall due to a couple of freak intense localized thunderstorms. I was camped at the trail-head area for the second, and it took me several hours to get out driving a high clearance Tacoma 2WD with a locking rear diff. (its a 4 door cab long bed, so less than ideal for rugged terrain.)
I've talked to a few people who've been up there this year and the word seems to be that if you are in a regular car you better take some shovels.
Yeah Josh, I was at Church Domes (across the Kern and a bit south same elevation less exposed) and it was cold and windy. The Needles must have been wild.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 30, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
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Thanks Kris! Would love to head up there soon. Also debating selling one of the few Needles Guides I have....maybe 500 bucks...Ha!
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craig mo
Trad climber
L.A. Ca.
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May 30, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
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I want one Kris
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 30, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
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^^^
Let's see, I've done Airy Interlude, Igor, Innersanctum. I need to get my act together and go do Spook Book.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 30, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
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A great route on that face, rarely climbed, is The Entity, first done by Herb Laeger and Vaino Kodas in 1986. P1 climbs past a couple bolts and then follows a funky crack to a belay on gear. P2 passes the overhangs (more like flaps) to a left facing corner which is less sustained but has a harder move than Spook Book, solid .10d. P3 is great fun at about 5.10a. From there you can go up and do the wild tunnel through finish on Shazam (5.8) or go right and finish on Spook Book.
This route requires good skills with traditional gear. The comment in the old guide about taking a thin pin is irrelevant with modern gear, just be aware it is a bit heads up. A Needles classic for sure.
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willm
Social climber
Oakland
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Hello! We're trying to spend a week at The Needles in two weeks but we travel in a small Subaru. Above posts make it seem as if we're going to have a tough time getting back there without high clearance or some serious trail work. Any advice on alternatives? or how to rock crawl in an Impreza ;) ?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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A recent post on Mountain Project by a Subie driver (scroll down to the last comments..):
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-needles/105851693
I would take a good shovel and a couple 4' pieces of 2x6 or 2x8 and go for it...
The damage to the road occurred late last fall during two unusually intense localized T-Storms. Erosion in a couple of sections caused deep ruts running along the track. The entire dirt rd is three miles, most of it is okay but the damaged sections were rough last fall.
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willm
Social climber
Oakland
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I reached out to the gent who posted on MP and he had this to say:
We were in a 1998 Outback, so I think you should be fine. There was just one tricky part where AWD came in handy, but with some skillful driving you could probably even make it through without it. It was a big diagonal water runoff trench on an uphill section of the road-- some people had layered a bunch of rocks in it for traction and it wasn't an issue for us. Worst-case is that you'd need to put in a few more rocks and shovel some dirt around for 15 minutes.
Sorry for the thread drift and thanks for the info!
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TeleRoss
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Highly recommend The Entity! Climbed it last year and each pitch is high quality. Definitely do the Shazam finish. I climbed up into the alcove below the big roofs, then hand traversed on a rail to the right just below the roof, and then pulled up and stemmed across the offwidth on nice jugs...super fun and way easier than it first appears!
Route is definitely heads up, esp. on the first pitch as it is a bit run above the first 1/4 inch bolt.
enjoy!
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Bump for guidebook info...Will we see it this season?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Really hope to see it too!!!
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Ken
Trad climber
Arroyo Grande
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Sell my Vernon guide in good shape w few wrinkles and some notes if I get an appealing offer
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Weston, I'd be stoked to climb there with you if you make it out!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Kris, how's the progress going on this?
All I can say is it's gonna get done. Working with the graphics designer now.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Perhaps something that rhymes with Bromantic Varrior
RW is way over my head this year, but I would love to try Don Juan wall again, and maybe Atlantis. Spook book is supposedly really good too. A lot of cool stuff to do there. Supposedly one of the best 5.11+/12- fingercracks is there. That would be a good flailathon.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Probably thinking of Ankles Away. Looks awesome.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Fat Dad, you should come out and join us for something. No matter what your shape is now, we could do some climbing or BBQ consuming. My tick list includes meeting a new STer for every month of the year. So far I am a little behind.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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NEEEEEEDDDLLLEEEESSSS!!!!!!!
I WANT TO SINK MY FINGERS INTO PERFECT CRACKS AND GET SCAREDDDD PLACING TINY GEAR!!!!ARRRGGGHHH!!!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nice offer Vittles. I normally have an annual Needles trip with a long time buddy of mine I met at the Camp 4 boulders some 30 yrs. ago. The issue is I'm still not back from an A2 injury to my middle finger. We'll see if the finger can rally.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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This one is a bit different. People that are years ahead of me with their climbing say it is currently above their head or hard as f**k. I don't want to aid that particular climb. There are many other fun climbs to be had :) If for some reason I do get on it this year, and do well, that would be quite incredible. More of a delusional dream than a real objective though at this point.
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Nov 10, 2014 - 10:54am PT
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Bump again...
Season is winding down, maybe before next season?
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Apr 20, 2015 - 10:47am PT
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Bump for the season, just around the corner.
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The Alpine
climber
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Apr 20, 2015 - 10:51am PT
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The Needles - the best granite trad climbing you could ever imagine......
....only way better.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Apr 20, 2015 - 11:08am PT
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wOOHoo!! guide book stoke!!
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Apr 20, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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Guidebook stoke Yea!! Its a magical place for sure! The lichen, the views, the way out there factor!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Apr 20, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
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Come on Kris! Let's do it!
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Apr 22, 2015 - 01:40pm PT
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A moderate recommendation? How about 'White Punks on Dope' 5.8+ on Voodoo Dome. This one defiantly qualifies for that show....'So you think your a Trad Climber'
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 23, 2015 - 10:10am PT
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Needles bump.
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Tennessee Jed
Trad climber
South Bay
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Apr 23, 2015 - 11:43am PT
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The rock looks so good in that picture fat dad, damn I cant wait to make it up there. I need to get more Ponderosa pancakes mmmm
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 23, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 23, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
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Yup, that place is real purdy.
And the Ponderosa has big portions too. I was just up there a couple of weeks ago enjoying the scenery.
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Tennessee Jed
Trad climber
South Bay
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Apr 23, 2015 - 01:17pm PT
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from dome rock
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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needles man
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Gate is closed as of monday but the road is in good shape early season.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Funny thing. I thought I really knew my way around The Needles, and making a good guide would be achievable in a year or two without really sweating it. Well I started taking pictures and sorting things out in 2009. Six years ago this summer.
Today there are one or two things on Voodoo which I have to figure out how to represent (should be done tonight) and The Needles is done. Dome and Hermit are more straightforward, and I have a lot of those done already, so in a month or so the whole deal will be in the publisher's hands. Graphic design is being done by a pro (who knows climbing.)
FWIW I was among those who were vocally opposed to the release of the 1992 guide. We all thought the area would become too popular, that the mystique would be lost. But what happened was that for one season some new people showed up, the types who gear up at the car and have zero clue what they're up for. Most never came back, gym-bags blown off. But a few became friends and partners.
The number of really good climbers has gone up. Climbs like the Warrior and Pyromaniac (that's the correct name) are done several times each season. A couple summers ago two guys did the Warrior and Don Juan in a day. And they were back in camp before dark!
My book is the opposite of a select guide. There are so many great climbs in the Needles which for one reason or another are obscure. And the history there is lost. I've worked tirelessly to sort that out. Some surprises there.
I pray that the book will be useful, informative and fun. Cheers.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I've worked tirelessly to sort that out
Pretty sure that's an understatement! ;-)
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Man, should have sold my old book when I had the chance.
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Good to hear Kris. Beyond stoked for you and the new guide. Thanks for all your hard work as a stuard of the area.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Kris, looking forward to the guide...what an awesome place them Needles. ...I got a story from there if you need one.
Rock on...d.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Kris.... Thanks for fixing tons of bad/old bolts.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Ha. Prolly more like pounds than tons, but the effort goes on this summer. Get on the bandwagon? There are lots of great routes that need new bolts there.
I'm not the only one. Some great guys who told me they'd like to remain anonymous fixed up Liquid Sky, one of the really great classics. Sea of Tranquility has new bolts as well. That's huge.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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T Hocking, That's an early ascent. The FA was 1976, but the route was not exactly famous when you did it. For sure it had three 1/4" bolts on the slab pitch up high. Someone replaced them but added one so there's four now. A lot less pucker factor.
K
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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I'm super stoked to buy your book!!
wicked effort!
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EP
Trad climber
Way Out There
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The Needles are awe inspiring.
I climbed Imaginary Voyage in 1987 as a second on my first steep route after doing Cornflakes and Piece of Cake at the Slabs and Arwen, Anti Jello and Tree Route at the Slabs. Went back and put up an unmemorable route in the East side of Magician with two friends. There is a sort of gully gully with huge flakes about halfway down. 5.8 and scary. The fun part was climbing over the ril on the stairs. This was before Margee.
Went back and climbed the Howling twice.
The wind can blow. Ropes fly. Can't hear the partner.
Love it.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Tad.... If I recall WPOD was talked about at the Weeping Wall Hang that went down almost every Sunday in the late afternoon.... Pre SuperTopo days.
Go Kris Go.... we go drink some killer Champagne when this is a book, right?
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Wow, thanks for the update! Really looking forward to seeing it. If anyone needs a partner in the next few weekends coming up, let me know
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wheatBeer
Social climber
TheBronx
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Sep 24, 2015 - 08:12pm PT
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Where is this guidebook now??
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Oct 25, 2015 - 08:53pm PT
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How's the book coming along? Needles season is winding down...
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greyghost
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Oct 25, 2015 - 09:45pm PT
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That's awesome Kris!...and paired up with Dwight...
miss not visiting that place as often as I'd like.
Tom Beck
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Feb 10, 2016 - 09:02am PT
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Needles bump. Any word on the book? Any more pictures to whet my appetite? Hoping to make my first visit this spring.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 10, 2016 - 11:34am PT
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The content is in the can. I'm proofing the final layout now. Then to the printer.
Eye candy...
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Feb 10, 2016 - 11:57am PT
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Really fun place......until the F-15 splits the uprights and not only bursts your ear drums but sets off a chain reaction of rockfall.....
Also fun to climb the dragon and top out in a lightning storm that leaves your hair standing on end and your steel gear sparking on your harness.
That's no bueno....
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Kurt Jensen
Trad climber
Aptos,CA
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Feb 10, 2016 - 12:12pm PT
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Yes! Stoked on the update KSolem! Thanks for all the hard work over the years to make the guidebook happen. Finally your book & I will go visit the Needles! I can't wait, and hope to have it for this season. I've never been to the Needles, after climbing at places all over California for decades. It's about time to change that! Year of the Monkey 2016…
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 10, 2016 - 12:28pm PT
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Needles bump.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 10, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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FD,
I love that view. Farewell gap out there I think.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Feb 10, 2016 - 01:16pm PT
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Don't hear to much about this climb these days but I'm very sure its still alls its cracked up to be. A report card of your various climbing skills. Its got it all for a must do Trad climb. Called the Best Moderate Trad climb in Southern Calif.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Feb 10, 2016 - 02:47pm PT
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So psyched for this guidebook. Let us know when you have it available for pre-purchase.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Feb 10, 2016 - 04:05pm PT
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Choss bump :)
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Feb 10, 2016 - 09:29pm PT
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War Paint
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 29, 2016 - 01:35pm PT
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good job Ksolemn!
would love to check it out
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Matt M
Trad climber
Alamo City
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Feb 29, 2016 - 01:52pm PT
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Pre Order Money Ready to go...
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Feb 29, 2016 - 02:10pm PT
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+1
Can't wait to read some of the personal stories of the developers.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 29, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
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Hey folks, I know this guide book is taking a long time, but I've helped Kris replace bolts out there and climbed routes with him just to make sure they are accurate for the guide. You have no idea how much hard work he has put into this. I have no question that when it comes out it will be one of the raddest and most accurate guidebooks ever produced, truly a functional work of art. Be patient and get ready to be truly awed by the fruits of his labor.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 29, 2016 - 03:28pm PT
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I got a preview a couple weeks ago when we went climbing in the A Hills. It looks GREAT!
Now, should I sell the old one before it is worthless?!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 29, 2016 - 04:00pm PT
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Nice Don Juan shot there Nathaneal.
I was hanging in camp there, and Yaniro walks over to the fire. Always inquisitive and supportive, "What are you guys climbing tomorrow?"
"Don Juan Wall."
"You know, it's called that because you Don Juan to lead it." Laughs all around.
This was when he and Carson were putting up titanic.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Feb 29, 2016 - 06:04pm PT
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Nice!
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Feb 29, 2016 - 06:50pm PT
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Thanks, not my shot though. Just been looking at some photos while planning a trip for this spring. Fun story about Don Juan hahaha. Looking forward to seeing all your hard work pay off, thanks.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Feb 29, 2016 - 07:13pm PT
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I am already in line for when money can be spent on this guidebook. The needles are just about the only place that I truly considered inspiring in Kali. (Prob because I never put eyes on the gorge of despair)
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Feb 29, 2016 - 07:43pm PT
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Pre Order Money Ready to go...
Yup. :D
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Feb 29, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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Hey Kris- do you still need pics? You had asked int he past. Happy to provide
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 29, 2016 - 07:57pm PT
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nathanael, thank you for updating the caption.
That's great news on the new guidebook!
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Tipkiss
Trad climber
CA
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just crossed my mind..
Is the new guidebook going to cover parker bluff, sentinel peak, merlin dome, K & I wonderbluff and others?
or is this guide strictly for Needles, Dome Rock, and Hermit Spire?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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From the intro:
This is the third published climbing guide for The Needles. The first, dating from 1983, was the Stonemasher Rockclimbing Guide to the Kern River Canyon and Environs, by E. C. Joe and Richard Leversee. In 1992 Sally Moser, Greg Vernon and Patrick Paul released volume two of Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: The Needles Area. Long out of print, these volumes have gained status as classics, and used copies have changed hands for respectable sums of money. Both of these books include climbing areas throughout the Kern and the Tule River Canyons.
This book has a narrower scope: The Needles, their stately neighbor Dome Rock, and their sister crag to the north, Hermit Spire. Today there are enough climbing areas throughout the Kern and Tule Canyons that one book covering them all would be a large volume indeed, and only the likes of Norman Clyde would toss such a tome into his backpack.
Hazed, we're pretty well covered for pictures, but feel free to email me a few jpgs. I'll message you the address now. Be sure to tell me who the climbers are if you know.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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some needles rainy day dreaming. thanks for the intro answer/teaser
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ec
climber
ca
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Cancer Boy
Trad climber
Freedonia
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Kris - first published guide I am aware of is a section of Roper's High Sierra guide, the light green one, 1976.
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ec
climber
ca
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I believe you are correct, however it was a High Sierra Guide, not a specific Needles Guide. There was a small section on the area.
ec
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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anyone guess? crux move to the anchor
Credit: shylock
Looks like 2nd pitch Don Jaun Wall.
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ec
climber
ca
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Go East Rincon...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Wow, two shots of the S Crack. How is that? Was eyeballing that when doing the South Face with Cancer Boy a couple of years ago. Perhaps an excuse to work on my pathetic wide skills.
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Friend
climber
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I was going to guess Ice Pirates
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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anyone guess? crux move to the anchor
Yeah, I was stumped (and ashamed to admit it) but I think Ice Pirates is a good call.
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ec
climber
ca
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More like Wide Pirates...SSSSSS-Crackkkk
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Just to be clear I was talking about Shylok's third pic.
Trivia, on the FA of S Crack they took the diagonal line up and right above the chimney pitch. Thus the "S."
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Mar 29, 2016 - 03:04pm PT
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Need more needles pics.. Or recommendations for must-do routes on a first trip there (up to 11-). Or speculation on how soon the road might open this spring.
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ec
climber
ca
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Mar 30, 2016 - 10:53am PT
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nathanael,
Try an old school approach; hike-in, see a line you like & climb it!
ec
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 30, 2016 - 11:39am PT
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Nathaniel,
The rangers are the ones who decide when to open the gate. It hasn't been a particularly heavy snow year up there, so I'm guessing it will be likely be sometime before Memorial Day. If you're really jonesing to get up there, you could do what ec said, though add a day or two, or hike in from the lower road by Voodoo. Stuff on Warlock can be approached from that direction--South Face, Imaginary Voyage, Planet Waves, etc.
As for route recommendations, it's all good. If you need help deciding between three vs. four star routes, look at something like Mountain Project.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 30, 2016 - 12:25pm PT
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For Forest Routes 21SO5 (Needles) 21S50 (Hermit Spire) and CA-190:
Tule River Ranger District
Springville, CA
(559)-539-2607
For Lloyd Meadows Road, 22S82 (Voodoo, Demon & Merlin domes) and Parker Pass (M-50:)
Cannell Meadow Ranger District
Kernville, CA 93238
(760)-376-3781
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Mar 30, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
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Needles!!!
And Ice Pirates it is in my pic.. such an awesome pitch.
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Friend
climber
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Mar 31, 2016 - 09:28am PT
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It's true - I've yet to do a less than awesome route there. Pick one and go for it.
Lost at Sea, lifetimes ago sometime in the previous millenium
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Thanks all :) looking forward to exploring
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Needles bump.
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Can't wait to see the new guidebook!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 14, 2016 - 10:55am PT
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Needles stoke! Heading out to the east side and southern end for 10 days at the end of the most.
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Dr.Keith
Trad climber
Navarre
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What's the road clearance condition. Is 4wd and high clearance vehicle needed. I am flying in and have to rent a car. Thanks.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Last october, it was fine in a 2wd no-clearance car
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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FWIW the book is uploading to the printer this week. Done. What an epic.
Grippa & Dr. Kieth, when are you planning your trips? You'll want to check the status of the roads. I posted the relevant phone #'s back up the page here a few posts.
The dirt road which takes you about three miles to the camping and trail-head for the regular approach to The Needles has a gate. They'll open it at different times each year depending on snow and mud. If it's open now that would be unusually early.
Voodoo Dome - a very worthy formation - is lower than the main upper Needles and it's road usually opens earlier. Also it's okay to approach some of the big south face Needles routes from down there too, Romantic Warrior, Warlock S Face, etc. It's a real grunt to approach the higher faces: Atlantis, Igor Unchained, etc. from below. I've done it and it wasn't too productive climbing wise.
Send me an email via the site here if you want some beta. I'll get something out tomorrow (Monday.)
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Good on you Kris for the effort. Only been to the Needles solo once back in the mid 80s. Scared the crap out of me.
What an great place.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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That's great news, Kris!
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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May 10, 2016 - 09:54am PT
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So after 24 year wait, there is a new Guide to Needles. Great news. This is bound to keep and even renew interest in this magnificent place.
Thank you Kris Solem for what must have been a monumental work to put this together.
Cannot wait to see a copy.
Cheers, Alois.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 10, 2016 - 01:07pm PT
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Last years February Climbers get together.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 01:39pm PT
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Wondering if a new guide will prompt any new route development. It appears that there's been some on the north side of Warlock but not too much else that I've seen. I suspect that it, or really some of the newer folks who rely on it, may prompt some discussion about retrobolting, which will be interesting. Curious what the future holds.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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May 10, 2016 - 01:52pm PT
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Who's the guy on the right with the fangs?
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 02:19pm PT
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Woohoo! Thanks for the work. Consider me in line for a pre-order. :D
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 10, 2016 - 03:20pm PT
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I suspect that it, or really some of the newer folks who rely on it, may prompt some discussion about retrobolting, which will be interesting. Curious what the future holds.
Want to go retrobolting in the Needles? ;)
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 03:24pm PT
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Definitely interested in getting my hands on a copy when complete. Lot of work goes into this kind of stuff; much appreciated!
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ec
climber
ca
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May 10, 2016 - 03:51pm PT
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Last years February Climbers get together. -Radish
from left to right:
David Hickey, EC, Radish, Patrick Paul, Larry Zulim
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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May 10, 2016 - 04:42pm PT
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People considering retro-bolting the Needles should start thinking about the personal implications of the existence of expert riflemen capable of hitting a human target two-thirds of a mile away.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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May 10, 2016 - 04:55pm PT
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I think Carson still cowboys in them there hills and always carries his ought six.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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May 10, 2016 - 04:58pm PT
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People considering retro-bolting the Needles should start thinking about the personal implications of the existence of expert riflemen capable of hitting a human target two-thirds of a mile away
ok, rad guy
vvvvvvvv you still posted it, rad guy and I am more than happy to have anything you have to post go right over my head
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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May 11, 2016 - 05:11am PT
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Its a book reference Overtard. Like most things, it went right over your head.
Back to the guidebook, I'm interested to hear some of the history of the are climbing and non-climbing since I've heard some of it but there's probably much more.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 11, 2016 - 12:34pm PT
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...I've heard some of it but there's probably much more.
I drilled down pretty deep for the historical info. In this regard I'm glad it took so long, lot's of the best contributions came in late. Anyway there should be some surprises and fun stuff in that regard.
I know some climbers prefer guidebooks to be lean and mean; the routes and how to get to them. This is not that book. But clocking in at a tad over 200 pages it's not like hauling around the Gideon Bible either.
So along with the regular guidebook stuff, I've tried to create an enjoyable and informative book. For example in my case when I read the geology article - written for the book by a climber/geologist - I saw the surrounding Sierra and The Needles in a whole new light.
Anyone who writes a book like this can expect to take some flak for all sorts of reasons. I've been rolling around on a bed of nails to thicken my skin, so bring it on :-)
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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May 11, 2016 - 12:46pm PT
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You will get no complaint from me. One of the reasons I'm so "protective" of first ascent aesthetics is a result of trying to put myself in the FA shoes when climbing a route. It always impresses me and I've never climbed anything "hard".
The history of a climbing location and the context of first ascentionists and principle developers is key to my enjoyment of an area. When I hike out to the Needles and look at ankles away or White Punks its fun to think about the folks that stood at the base and looked up.
I feel those people deserve their due in any written treatment of an area.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 11, 2016 - 01:04pm PT
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My comment was slightly sarcastic. Not sure if Fat Dad has climbed at the Needles recently but in the last three years, whenever I was there, the place was LOADED with climbers. There is plenty of topos and info about frequently done routes and obscure routes as well. A LOT of gym climbers all over the place. Nothing that I am aware of has been retrobolted and no one has mentioned how nice Atlantis would be if it had a bit more pro available, or adding a bolt above the first on Wailing Banshees (you basically climb HARD face for 15 feet above the first with real decking potential if you blow the non trivial last moves, while pumped as hell) or anything else that is actually given an R rating. Unlike most of the not-anymore-climbing people on this web site, most of these gym climbing newbs go out there and try challenging things with not getting f-ed up as a priority, like those other people who used to climb there before.
New guidebook will be very appreciated, I am looking forward to getting it and I would not fear the whole place will become a giant bolt ladder. People know most of the climbs have tricky pro and most treat it with respect. Can't climb it, don't get on it or hang a TR.
Additions: really looking forward to climbing there this yea. The place is full of likely the best cracks in the state and routes that are very good at making one very humble! :)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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May 11, 2016 - 02:05pm PT
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The approach is like 3 miles and it's not flat!!!
If we bolt all the cracks we won't have to carry all those dumb cams and stuff.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 11, 2016 - 02:11pm PT
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Hi Vitaly, the crowding varies a lot. I've spent weeks at a time living in that campground recently. During the week it's usually pretty mellow. Maybe a party from Britain or Switzerland, a few locals or Yosemite folks.
Weekends, especially holidaze are another story. You need a traffic cop where Airy Interlude an Igor Unchained come together.
Maybe see you up there one day...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 11, 2016 - 02:12pm PT
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EDIT.... cool my head down.
whatever Vittles. meth
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 11, 2016 - 02:27pm PT
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Was that directed toward me? True, I am a member of the Fat Dad club (guess there's a club now) but I have gotten out there at least once a year for the past several years and climbed things like Pit and the Pendulum, Airy Interlude, Igor Unchained, Anti-Jello Crack, Windjammer, South Face of Warlock, The Howling, and a few more. If that makes me part of the 'used to get out crowd', I'm happy with that.
Contrary to what Vitaliy has seen, I have seen folks but not really what I would call crowds. The usual congregating at the Witch/Sorceror notch, but certainly not gym climbers (and by that I mean sport climbers). I think most people who have gotten out to the Needles with the resources now available are not the type to advocate retrobolting. But you've seen the threads on sites like Mountain Project, where some contend that Double Cross in Joshua Tree needs a bolt at the beginning to be safe. I'm certainly not advocating it. But wait and see, there will be a new crowd with possibly different expectations who will claim that the bolting on West Side Story is "elitist". Hope I'm wrong.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 11, 2016 - 03:09pm PT
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...who will claim that the bolting on West Side Story is "elitist". Hope I'm wrong.
If they think West Side Story is "Elitist", their heads will explode when they check out Harlem Shuffle or Straight to Hell.. :-)
I do think that getting new bolts on these routes before they disappear completely will help to prevent such acts. There are plenty of climbers who will climb those routes if they can count on the bolts to hold a fall.
Liquid Sky has new bolts, and should see some ascents now. Sea of Tranquility is also replaced. Don Juan Wall has new belay bolts. Lumpy the Fish and Dulldrills (two runout one pitch routes for confident leaders) are fixed up. As are Shadows in The Rain and Planet Waves. One route at a time the job gets done. I guess there rest of the west face Magician Routes are next.
ASCA all the way baby! When you clip a nice modern bolt, or bomber rings at a belay remember the source.
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cotuclimber
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 11, 2016 - 04:56pm PT
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Needles are great. Was there last fall with friends who climb at the gym in the bay. One of them onsighted Don Juan with Atlantis. Redpointed Sirocco with me on the following day. Without adding bolts, woot!
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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May 11, 2016 - 06:40pm PT
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 12, 2016 - 11:54am PT
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EDIT.... cool my head down.
whatever Vittles. meth
Don't know what you said, as the content is EDITed out, but what problem do you have with my comment earlier in the thread? If you want email me personally, don't want you to be upset for no good reason: xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com
One with an offer to retrobolt was a joke.
In the other, I point out the Needles DO SEE traffic now, without a super modern guidebook. People that climb in the gym DO go there. And as far as I know, no classic routes have acquired RETRO bolts. A friend rebolted a long difficult free route a few years ago with the help of ASCA hardware.
I am sick of all the bashing of the 'new generation.' Which is constant on this forum. Presuming a new guidebook will invite herds of retro-bolting gym climbers is ridiculous. Wouldn't be surprised if majority of the sold books would go to those like me and most of the posters on this thread - those who have been to the Needles already. Those visiting CA too of course. But no Fat Dad, I do not think there will be a bunch of retro bolting going on in the next 10 years....unless Mr. Woot gets sick of the Valley or something...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 12, 2016 - 04:40pm PT
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...any timeline for release?
It's really out of my hands at this point. KDanielspublishing is at the helm. W.L. mentioned customs problems with Jerry Handren's Red Rocks guide. Hopefully things will go smoothly with this one.
The Needles book is dedicated to the memory of my friend Michael Ybarra.
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cotuclimber
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 12, 2016 - 04:50pm PT
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RIP Michael.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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May 12, 2016 - 05:24pm PT
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Nice remembrance! Looking forward to reading about the history of this particular area ksolem.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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May 12, 2016 - 06:41pm PT
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Best granite crack climbing in the world?
Yes please.
I love southern Sierra climbing history so I'm glad it's a big book and includes it.
The place deserves a quality guide and I bet kris did it justice, can't wait to get a copy! Woot!
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EP
Trad climber
Way Out There
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May 12, 2016 - 07:57pm PT
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I have stood where Michael Ybarra was. Wonderful place to be.Sad to lose a good friend.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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May 13, 2016 - 09:12pm PT
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Wow Kris! Congratulations!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 13, 2016 - 09:40pm PT
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So McHale, I figured all that info you gave me was bs, so I just cut it all out. I mean do you really expect anyone to believe that your stepdad would turn a couple of not old enough to drive teenagers loose down below The Needles, knowing their plan was to climb about 1000 ft of granite up to the lookout where he would meet you at the top of your climb later the following day? ;-)
Now that's what I call parenting!
If parents did that today, and Child Protective Services got wind of it (say through a teacher at school) they could lose custody of their kids.
How things have changed.
But then it's even harder to believe that he let you go up there alone with Beckey later the same year.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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May 13, 2016 - 09:45pm PT
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Hey, you got it all wrong anyway. Joe Brown was not a teenager and Becky was my Stepdad. LOL! Oh wait, that would mean Becky is still my Stepdad. Something is wrong with this picture. Maybe in the second printing we can get it straight!
Kris, this is the opening page of a journal I started in 1975. See, the guidebook was in the future the entire time.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 14, 2016 - 10:12am PT
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So McHale, is the recipe for Pea Soup in there?
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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May 14, 2016 - 02:55pm PT
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Probably - it's all connected you know. Somebody should have named something 'Lentils' but I'll bet that's a future route. I could just have been really hungry when I named Pea Soup.
OK, I'm scanning through the journal looking for mention of the Needles but nothing so far except a passage that said, "Every moment is thick as soup". That was in reference to El Cap though. I'll keep looking.....
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msiddens
Trad climber
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May 15, 2016 - 07:28am PT
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Kris- thanks for the info and work. Now and over the years. Just rolling through the thread and made some memories flood back to good climbs and people. Needles is such a special place.
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Jun 13, 2016 - 05:29pm PT
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Bump with some pictures from my trip up there Memorial day. Really awestruck by this place.
High res stuff here
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jun 27, 2016 - 04:32pm PT
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hell yesssss- pre-ordered!
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jun 27, 2016 - 04:41pm PT
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Can't wait to see it Kris...congratulations
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 27, 2016 - 04:55pm PT
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It's funny how things are. Now that the book is out of my hands I'm afraid to look at the final proof copy again for fear that I'll come across some grievous error.
My job in the music business as a mastering engineer and the role of the graphics designers for this book (Allison Monroe and Dave Hatchett) are remarkably similar. I gave them all of the elements of the book in word, excel and photoshop docs and they made it into a finished piece. In my job I took what the band had done in the recording studio by the time they ran out of time, money, and drugs, and made it into the finished piece.
I would get a bit frustrated when the band, or the producer would hold up finishing the thing over what seemed to me to be insignificant, sometimes not even discernible tweaks. It's been interesting having the shoe on the other foot.
I cannot thank FlyDude here (Dwight) enough for the plane ride. Just flying around the Needles in a single engine plane was once in a lifetime, but the pictures are a huge contribution to the book. Thanks Dwight.
I hope y'all like the book. I do but that's probably the kiss of death :-)
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Jun 27, 2016 - 05:02pm PT
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fookin bitchin both guide book and Nathanals' pics
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Jun 27, 2016 - 05:03pm PT
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Woooo! Put in my pre-order :)
Hoping to head back this weekend for round 2.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Jun 28, 2016 - 05:16am PT
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Anyone want to buy the 91 book? Don't think I'll use it before the new one is out.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 28, 2016 - 05:30am PT
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Always the most awesome ! Getting after it
I'm SO Jealous ! Yowza wowza! That light - Nathanael's Snaps !
Thanx's fer Sharing !
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Jun 28, 2016 - 06:40am PT
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Done. Ordered. Do I have to transfer all my notes into it? Ugh.
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MEDIOCRE
Ice climber
MD
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Jun 28, 2016 - 10:17am PT
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Nice job Kris!! I have been waiting for this book for few years and cannot wait to get my hands on it. pre-ordered 2 copies
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 28, 2016 - 05:58pm PT
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From the acknowledgements page:
This book is dedicated to the memory of Michael Ybarra.
Michael loved The Needles and we shared many memorable climbs
in this special place.
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Matt's
climber
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Jun 28, 2016 - 07:03pm PT
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Thanks Kris for putting out this book, and thank you for always answering needles questions on the forum. I just bought a copy.
best,
matt
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 28, 2016 - 07:19pm PT
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The sunlit pinnacle in the lower right corner is one of the Needle's least frequently climbed formations, named Styx.
"... a river in the underworld, over which the souls of the dead were ferried by Charon, and by which the gods swore their most solemn oaths."
The TOC above is out of date and does not list Index by Grade.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jun 28, 2016 - 08:10pm PT
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Another preorder here, and thanks. My wish list is now one book shorter, can't wait to see the finished product!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Jun 29, 2016 - 12:01am PT
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Kris, thanks for the dedication & hard work. Best to you...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 29, 2016 - 10:09am PT
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Congratulations Kris.
Thanks! It's a good thing I didn't have a clue what I was getting into when I started.
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Friend
climber
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Jun 29, 2016 - 10:56am PT
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Sure, but now you can relax and enjoy the good life as an esteemed guidebook author - nothing but fame, fortune, screaming groupies and royalty checks from here on out.
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ec
climber
ca
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What did I just buy!?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Friend, I thought I'd seen a ton of Needles photos, but I have no idea what those first two routes are.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Hmm. I'm supposed to know these things...
#2 is Ewok, on Voodoo. #1 could be up on P3 on Summer Sojourn, although from that angle it looks harder (It's been years since I've been up there).
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Congrats Kris! The Needles is no. 1 in places I haven't been that I want to go to. Can't wait for the book!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Thanks Jim. I hope you like the book, but I know you'll love The Needles.
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Friend
climber
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Fat Dad, thought i'd go for a couple less-photographed gems.
that's me getting up to the crux p1 or 2 on Rising Spirits at Hermit spire. Sweet route. Photo by Pierre de St Croix.
Darshan leading the Ewok crack, photo by me
The last one, too obvious no doubt. The Raven, photo by Rico.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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that's me getting up to the crux p1 or 2 on Rising Spirits at Hermit spire. Sweet route. Photo by Pierre de St Croix.
I knew I was off the mark on that one. Rising Spirits and it's neighbor The Land Down Under are mega classic.
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nathanael
climber
CA
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The Needles were hopping this weekend. I'll post up a few pics later. When we left on Sunday afternoon we counted 2 parties on Thin Ice, 2 parties on Atlantis, 1 party on Don Juan and several parties milling at the base waiting to get started. And that's not to mention the dozens of parties on Airy/Igor over the course of the weekend. Plus a handful of people getting on some of the less traveled hard routes like Pyromania and Davy Jones Locker.
Even with the "crowds" it was still a blast up there, everyone was friendly and psyched to climb, really fun atmosphere. People cruxing on Atlantis could count on cheers of encouragement from the notch. And of course plenty of rock to go around if you didn't want to queue up for Igor/Airy/Thin Ice. What a great place.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Thanks Friend. Didn't recognize Ewok since I've only been to Voodoo once, and that was to find someone just roping up on White Punks. They told us they'd be slow and we couldn't pass, so we bailed. Must get up there again. Rising Spirits has been on my list. I eyeballed it when I did the South Face years ago and but haven't been able to get back to Hermit. Soon perhaps.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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I'll buy the darn thing, of course!
Kris, since we're 'acquainted' now, I expect some beta from the master when I ever get my ass down there.
I've always wanted to check it out, just gotta finish some things up here around Shuteye.
I was gonna say, "too much stone around here", but that would be stupid. There's never enough new stone to wander upon.
Congrats on the release!!!!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Moose, I don't think so. Just searched everything since the Shuteye dates. Kristian underscore solem at verizon.net
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Can't wait to see your Senior Project.
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Aug 23, 2016 - 03:40pm PT
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Bump! Is it really just 1 week before these books ship? I can't wait!
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Matt's
climber
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Aug 23, 2016 - 04:18pm PT
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What's up with the shifting ship date?
Is it actually going to ship in October, or is that a made-up date too? If its not a solid ship date, it would be more ethical to say "expected to ship Oct 30", not "shipping Oct 30".
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Coach37
Social climber
Philly
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Aug 23, 2016 - 05:38pm PT
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Hey, maybe Kris or somebody knows. Is pyromania safe to try for the onsight? Theres a girl here that I think has a good shot to do it, but im not going in there with her if its not safe to try. it looks like little pieces but solid?
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curlie
Trad climber
SLO, CA
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Sep 13, 2016 - 08:49pm PT
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Just thought I'd add some pix to keep the stoke high!
So the rock is f*#kin killer.....
AND THE F18s!!!!!!1111!!1!!
They flew through the notches probably a dozen times yesterday. The pix above were from one of their higher passes. The best was when we were a pitch up on Imaginary Voyage, and I watched one come through the valley from the Kern to the south, way low just skimming the trees, bank and come straight up the gully between the Warlock & Voodoo Dome, and fire on through the notch knife-edge below eye level, then fully invert and dive into the valley to the north. One of the most amazing things I've seen (and heard!) in my life, a real treat.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 13, 2016 - 11:21pm PT
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Is pyromania safe to try for the onsight? Theres a girl here that I think has a good shot to do it, but im not going in there with her if its not safe to try. it looks like little pieces but solid?
Coach yer member to member email is disabled or I would have answered you directly on this one.
So I'm not really sure how to answer your question. A climber who can climb 5.13 and place good gear at the same time can do it safely. One who can't, can't. Probably not the best place to try to get lucky in that regard. Keep in mind that there is a lot of intricate climbing and pro on Pyromaniac other than just the flake you see in all the pics. Has she led a bunch of .11's and 12's with thin gear? I'm having a hard time visualizing someone on-sighting that rig if they (by they I mean the climber) can't stand at the base and size up the gear. That said, I've seen it on-sighted twice. Once by some guy who tears it up on the Grit, and the other by some young monkey from The Valley. Both climbers were pro's at pro...
And you're not going to go there with her based on whether or not one route is safe to try? Seems to me that if she wants to do some hard climbing at The Needles there's a whole bunch of stuff to try. Piranha and Parasite are pretty god tick's and they're bolted. Or there's the Women and Children First version of Titanic, where you skip the big burly chimney crack from down below. Just traverse in with a couple pieces and then follow bolts to the top.
It's all pretty wild stuff.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 13, 2016 - 11:24pm PT
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What's up with the shifting ship date?
Is it actually going to ship in October, or is that a made-up date too? If its not a solid ship date, it would be more ethical to say "expected to ship Oct 30", not "shipping Oct 30".
The ship date is out of my hands. I'm really sorry it's happening. After all this time it's really frustrating for me too. Almost like coitus interruptus or something.
I'll give Kevin a call and one of us will get back here with the word.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 15, 2016 - 11:41am PT
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The books are printed (South Korea) and sitting in a container on a ship parked in Los Angeles harbor. I suppose that since Christmas is right around the corner they could end up getting delivered to Wal-Mart, but I'm hoping for the best... :-)
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Matt's
climber
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Sep 15, 2016 - 12:18pm PT
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ksolem-- thanks for the update, and thank you for all the positive stuff you do for this forum.
best,
matt
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Sep 15, 2016 - 12:22pm PT
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Oh god. Please let's hope they're not on a Hanjin ship. Although its getting completely buried in the news, their bankruptcy is not without impact.....
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Sep 15, 2016 - 03:39pm PT
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yea, there are several container ships sitting in the port of Angeles and Oakland and they can't be unloaded because the company went bankrupt! A Big company too. This is going to be a big impact on Christmas I'm sure for stores like Target and such.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 15, 2016 - 03:59pm PT
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There are three in Long Beach Harbor (LA). One is currently being unloaded. It costs about $10M to unload one of these big boys, and since the longshoreman don't trust them they have to post the money up front. I'm sure it's worth it to WallMart, Target, Best Buy etc., to get together and pay up.
The creditors want to seize the ships but are not entitled to the cargo.
New: I just read that there are now two of the three at dockside. The parent company, Hanjin Group, and the biggest shareholder, Korean Airlines have combined to chip in $144M to get the cargo off as many of their ships as possible.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Sep 15, 2016 - 04:14pm PT
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Some positive news for sure. Let's hope Wally World has to unload your crate of books to get to their jingle balls xmas special merchandise. I'm hoping I got in line soon enough to have a single digit serial number.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Sep 16, 2016 - 12:33am PT
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Kris, why did they have to be printed in South Korea - are there really no US printers who'd be competitive?
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Any new developments on ship dates?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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They got off the ship. UPS tracking shows the books in Reno on 10/4.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 06:36am PT
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If you were climbing the Southeast face of the Sorcerer last Saturday- this is you.
Not sure of the route.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Oct 14, 2016 - 07:23am PT
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Good pic. Nice to see the area not filled with smoke for a change....
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 07:36am PT
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The fire danger there last weekend was so intense with the dry Autumn winds and dead trees, yet there they were at Needles camp- stoners having to warm themselves by campfire.
Have to admit, that made me a cold and bitter stoner.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Oct 14, 2016 - 07:41am PT
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I wouldn't know anything about campfires. I abhor them....the smaller the better. <snickering>
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 08:02am PT
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I'm with you- Nothing like a fine Tawny Port, a fat doob and a campfire.
There's so many dead and dying trees at the Needles that my buddy, that lives near by is seriously considering a bomb shelter for when the big fire comes...and it's coming.
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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Oct 14, 2016 - 08:41am PT
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Yeah, it's pretty gnarly. I was there a month ago and was dismayed by a loud and obnoxious partying climber group camping there, felt like they just took a field trip from the bouldering gym as they were super loud spraying until past midnight with campfire despite all the other groups wanting to just sleep and enjoy the quiet. Made me feel like an old grumpy curmudgeon and I'm only 38! Shit! Guess I'll start posting more here on ST...
Edit: guidebooks shipping soon?? Looking forward to checking it out...many thanks for all your hard work Kris
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 09:59am PT
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There's so many dead and dying trees at the Needles that my buddy, that lives near by is seriously considering a bomb shelter for when the big fire comes...and it's coming. It's pretty bad. I was in the area (down the road a bit) last weekend and just about all the pines are brown. There are some where the needles are only half brown, but alot of the dead ones looked that way at first. With the dead trees, stumped trees, chopped up trees lying on the ground to be cut up into kindling, it looks more like a logging camp than a semi-wilderness area. I get why people build fires though, at least in that setting: the nights are long and getting cold, the social aspect, etc. Still, just a stray ember and, you're right, the whole area is going up in flames. It makes me worried for the full time residents up there (and the Sequoia groves too). The roads leading in and out are long, winding and narrow. One burning tree falls across the road and where are they going to go?
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 09:59am PT
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Hey Andrew!
You're right, I talked to a couple of guys on the way in, they mentioned climbing that route.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 10:02am PT
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Fatdad- two roads out of the area, I hate to think....
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 14, 2016 - 11:04am PT
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Well, it's just Hwy. 190, which runs in two directions: west out to Springville, etc., and south toward Johnsondale/Lake Isabella. Regardless, not alot of alternate routes.
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 16, 2016 - 01:39am PT
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Fat Dad, you are hitting perfectly on the exact feelings I had when I topped out WPOD even back in June. You are strikingly describing the area, (maybe it would benefit from logging of all the dead ones) and It feels as though you are situated / 'cornered' ontop of that ridge, with fire potential to block either road. I was thankful it was cloudy and moist... and said a little prayer for no incidents.
It's really tough what the drought did to the landscape but obviously the bark-beetle (or whatever) is a big factor. I also read an article about the explosion of wineries (on the western slope ish) and wonder how much of an effect that has on the areas climate & ability to 'attract' weather in a sense, or at least generate precip.
Love the needles so much, and the Kern above the bridge there is where my older brother really introduced me to the outdoors... fishing. and California for that matter. Being from Pittsburgh PA it was mind blowing (Even though I'd been to the state many times)
might as well post some photos after all that.
PS - I came to the thread to buy the guidebook <3 -
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 16, 2016 - 01:44am PT
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PPS ... I totally believe that 'the big one is coming' like contractor said.
I would never build a fire anywhere near those roads. I've had fires down by the river, in well-built rings on the sand, not in the heat of summer... but yeah.. It was sad to see Kernville hit bad earlier this year.
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Matt's
climber
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Oct 21, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
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So, october 20th has come-- has the book shipped to those who have pre-ordered?
best,
matt
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Oct 22, 2016 - 07:35am PT
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Thank you!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 22, 2016 - 10:01am PT
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Oh-Happy Day....
Kris put his heart and soul into that book.... it was going to be a nice relaxing summer project. But once he started in and discovered how hard it was going to be to climb every climb and or to get a first hand report fresh from climbers everyday and to replace the mankey bolts and to get the history right and to get all the photos just right... well it became like a 5 year project? maybe 6?
But I do know Kris... the man is a perfectionist with everything he touches, the trumpet, the music mastering, THE CLIMBING and now this fantastic guidebook.
I was happy to help him in anyway I could, lugging massive amounts of bolting equipment, ropes, and camera gear all over the place, doing some climbing with a notebook in hand and the many supply runs to restock him with Wine and Fresh Salmon and I was not alone, many other folks joined in and assisted him- but this book is all Kris- he sweated over the details.
I would like to say THANK YOU KRIS for all the work, sweat and tears you put into this.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Oct 22, 2016 - 10:04am PT
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^^^^^ No joke. Thanks Kris.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Oct 22, 2016 - 08:58pm PT
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Yeah^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
After seeing the page that Contractor posted above, it looks like this could be the most erocktic guidebook ever.....a real page turner for dream rock.
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Matt's
climber
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Oct 22, 2016 - 09:12pm PT
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got it today, looks great!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Oct 23, 2016 - 09:19am PT
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A true labor of love. Thank you Kris!
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Got mine last week, turned out fantastic. Perfect balance of enough beta but not ruining some mystery. And great stories and notes from the FA teams and such. Really impressed, can't wait to get back up there. Thanks Kris for making it happen!
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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I got my long awaited guidebook last week - sweeet! It is clear that Kris went all out on this one! Kris, thank you for giving just enough detail to make it exciting, but not too much so you know exactly what is coming. I look forward to getting out to the Needles area again.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Saw one at a Halloween party at Cole Gibson's house..it was Guy Reese's or Andrew Rocks or somebody's. Looks GREAT! Epperson photos,Hermit spire stuff,...epic! Great job, Kris!
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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The first of several release parties / events will be at the Stronghold gym in L.A.
Any planned for Idaho???? :)
EDIT: I have a brand new 3300 sf insulated building with an entire wall free that's ready to display a slide show and take ideas for a indoor climbing wall....
Only a couple hours from COR....
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
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Kris, what other releases parties are you going to have in LA? Heading downtown in the evening from the Westside is grim, and I'll probably have my 12 yr. old in tow since she's on a local gym team.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Kris, what other releases parties are you going to have in LA? Heading downtown in the evening from the Westside is grim, and I'll probably have my 12 yr. old in tow since she's on a local gym team.
For L.A. area we're planning a couple slideshows at REI's, but the dates and locations are not firm yet...
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
|
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Very cool Kris.
Looking forward to getting you up here in the SF Bay Area before Needles season.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Some great climbing porn in this. Big thanks for all the hard work to all you who did it.
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
|
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Kris, Do they have any copies at Stronghold yet? I'll be passing through in the morning.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Thanks Kris. That'll work too.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
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Kris, Do they have any copies at Stronghold yet?
I don't know. You could always give them a call.
323 505 7000
Or PM me if you are in the Pasadena/Arcadia area.
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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I will be going through Pasadena tomorrow.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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See you at the Stronghold....
Love the book, not to many recent guide books are are worth reading cover to cover, this one is.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
|
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Kris, how do I order one and how much total to send to France? Thanks.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
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Hi Jaaan,
Good question. I'll have to check with the publisher. Can you send me an email via SuperTopo's messaging thing? That way I'll have your email and will let you know when I can...
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Burnin' Oil
Trad climber
CA
|
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Just got my copy. Awesome and the stoke is high. Thanks.
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onyourleft
climber
So Oregon
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Nov 12, 2016 - 11:15pm PT
|
Received mine in the mail this morning and spent the day reading it page by glossy page from cover to cover.
It's an incredible work of art.
Guidebooks continue to push standards and this one is cutting edge.
The history section is outstanding, profiling the visionaries that opened these stellar routes.
Also loved the easy-to-comprehend geology treatise by Michael Loughman.
Something I especially like: the route approaches and descents are given in great detail, while the route descriptions are relatively concise.
Beautiful full-color glossy pictures, lots of images from the amazing Kevin Powell, along with Greg Epperson, Jim Thornburg, and many fine others.
Only one question: "Printed in South Korea"
Really? Couldn't find a reasonably-priced domestic source?
It's a collector's item for sure.
Until my next visit, it takes an honored slot on the shelf adjacent to my "Stonemasher Guide" and the Vernon/Moser/Paul version.
Bravo Kris!
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ec
climber
ca
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Nov 13, 2016 - 07:40am PT
|
The Needles Guide is Dead...
Long Live the Needles Guide!
ec
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 15, 2016 - 06:42pm PT
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Party bump.
Just want to reminds the SoCal bunch that the Stronghold Climbing Gym is hosting a Needles Guide release party this Thurs., 7-9 pm.
The building marked Brewery is the gym. Parking on S Ave 21 fills up. The best alternate is two blocks east on Moulton Ave., then walk in through the complex.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 17, 2016 - 11:25am PT
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Party Bump....
It starts at 7pm.... see you there.
Kris... does this Stronghold place have a address????
I don't frequent the downtown hipster scene... so I know nothing about a brewery district, or Molton ave..... or what/where this place is??
And looking at the "MAP" posted above... looks like Molton is a bit WEST of the Brewery.... or is the map upside down?
I am glad the maps in the Guide are spot on.....
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Nov 17, 2016 - 03:58pm PT
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Psyched for tonight's event!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 17, 2016 - 04:21pm PT
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Guy, the map is pretty accurate. The street you'll turn right (south) on is just before the freeway. It looks more like a driveway though. If you're driving down Main toward the freeway, you'll see the industrial buildings on your right before you get to your turn. Head down the road and the Stronghold is at the end of that street. Pretty hard to miss. Won't be there tonight (baby sitting the kids) but looking forward to scoring my guide soon.
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Friend
climber
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Nov 17, 2016 - 04:57pm PT
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Sorry to miss Kris (congrats!), Levy, Guy and the other luminaries bound to be there tonight. Party down!
Andrew
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Nov 20, 2016 - 03:31pm PT
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Just thumbed through mine. Looks great!
Had a good time at the Stronghold event last Thurs. Many good old pals and ST'ers.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Nov 20, 2016 - 08:06pm PT
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Kris needs to post
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Nov 20, 2016 - 08:42pm PT
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A great evening with great folks. In the crowd you will see Scott Loomis, Spider Savage, Levi, Guy, Kevin, LeRoy and a gaggle of other friends.
Please checkout Kris' guide - truly a labor of love.
TY
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Nov 20, 2016 - 09:27pm PT
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Great meeting new people and seeing some I haven't seen since the 80's.
Cant wait for Needles season next year.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 20, 2016 - 09:28pm PT
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The gentleman in the two tone brown shirt is Andy Lichtman, a Yosemite hardman and regular partner with Bob Kamps.
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Andyfin
climber
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Jul 31, 2017 - 07:55am PT
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Hi!
Anyone know where I could order this guide from with postage to Finland?
Cheers
Adrian
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 31, 2017 - 08:10am PT
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Email me at
kristian_solem at verizon dot net
We should be able to work it out via paypal or square.
Cheers, Kris
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Andyfin
climber
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Aug 10, 2017 - 10:01am PT
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Hi Kris
I sent a message, just let me know how to proceed.
Cheers Adrian
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 16, 2017 - 12:25pm PT
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Andy. No message yet here. Note that the member to member email on this forum does not work. Just use the email address I spelled out above.
Cheers
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Aug 16, 2017 - 04:16pm PT
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since this thread is back on the front page, here's a few pics from a recent trip :)
thanks for a nice guidebook kris, inspiration to get on a few of the slightly less traveled moderates, even though we did practically have the place to ourselves that weekend
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| Messages 1 - 265 of total 265 in this topic |
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