Glacier Point Apron - safe or not?
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Sac Climber

Intermediate climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2002 - 03:43pm PT
The big rock falls get all the attention, but there are a lot more small rock falls around and these do far more climbers in. I was at the base of Butterballs a couple of weeks ago when a climber was killed on the far right side of the cookie. Had no idea at the time, just another medium small rock fall.

I am curious about the Apron also. How far to the right has anybody climbed? Does Mr. Natural still exist as a route? Anybody crazy enough to go see?

steve
Matt

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2002 - 03:55pm PT
I climbed Mr Natural twice last Spring.
The 3 star 5.11 face climb below it (Green Dragon, maybe?) is apparently much shorter now, but Mr. Natural was perfect, and I lived to tell the tale!

btw-
My beta over there is don't dick around! Don't chit-chat, don't wait for a climb, rack up at the car, just get in and get out. At least you feel like you are doing what you can to be safe.

(safer to be climbing in an active rockfall zone than living in some parts of the world =)
test

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2002 - 05:16pm PT
<a href="http://www.radford.edu/rumag/backissues/1997_dec/pages/shear.html">http://www.radford.edu/rumag/backissues/1997_dec/pages/shear.html</a>;
Minerals

Novice climber
Nov 7, 2002 - 05:35pm PT
For those of you who are interested, here are some links to geologic info on the Glacier Point rock-falls.


This link has cool pictures. In the second picture, the approximate contact between Half Dome Granodiorite (lower left) and Tonalite of Glacier Point (upper right and right) can be vaguely seen, just below the red outline of the release area and angling down to the right at about a 45 degree angle:

<a href="http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/1999/ofr-99-0385/">http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/1999/ofr-99-0385/</a>;


More info:

<a href="http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/1998/ofr-98-0467/">http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/1998/ofr-98-0467/</a>;


A quick bit of info and a cool picture:

<a href="http://mac.usgs.gov/mac/isb/pubs/booklets/scientists/rockfall.html"> http://mac.usgs.gov/mac/isb/pubs/booklets/scientists/rockfall.html</a>;
trouble shooter

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2002 - 05:38pm PT
just cut and paste the link
Copperhead

Novice climber
Doh!
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2002 - 05:42pm PT
Hmmmmmmm. Must have done something wrong. Links don't work. Oh well, copy and paste if interested.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Nov 7, 2002 - 07:47pm PT
its clear to me and i think most people that it is very dangerous to climb to the right of Monday Morning Slab and to the Left of the Cow/Grack. these are the areas that were affected by the two major rock falls in the last 6 years. It is also clear that is dangerous to climb the Good Book and around the Rixon’s area where there have also been two major rock falls in the last few years. all these areas will likely be dangerous for at least 10 years.

the question is, how safe is it to climb in the area between Monday Morning Slab and Grack. There has not been a major rock fall in this area for a long time. Can anyone confirm any minor rock fall in this area?
rock fan

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2002 - 01:30pm PT
Really appreciate the cool info Copperhead. Most of that stuff you posted, I didn't know existed. Don't let a few brainless idiots stop you from posting more of this stuff. RW
Nor Cal

Intermediate climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2002 - 02:38pm PT
I got beamed this fall on GPA, several small rocks came my way, one hit me in the side (no major damage) and the others just missed my friends.
Is it dangerous? well that is up to you to decide.
One thing I do know is that its not getting much sun this time of the year.
Lambone

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2002 - 06:49pm PT
I'll second the Rixons Pinicle warning, I almost got taken out solo aiding up there a long time ago. Too bad cause it's a great starter aid route...
ouija

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2002 - 06:53pm PT
Yeah the best 5.4-5.6s are up on the Apron, perfect for the new guide book. But death is very bad for business, not to mention a lawsuit.
How's the insurance, Chris?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Nov 9, 2002 - 11:46am PT
Nor Cal, what route were you on?

As long as we can confirm that there is not much rockfall between Monday Morning Slab and The Cow, we will probably include it in the book. So far nobody in this thread or in the Valley has confirmed that this is specific area between Monday Morning and the Cow is an "active rock fall zone." (of course there is occasionally minor rock fall on every cliff in yosemite so i am just interested in if this area is clearly more active than others.)

however, if we do include it in the book, we will bring up a lot of the concerns people have mentioned above and make it clear that some people don't consider the area safe.
Nor Cal

Intermediate climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2002 - 11:52am PT
We were on the Grack!
Safe or not? I think its safer than the drive on 120!
DS

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2002 - 02:02pm PT
We'll just have to come up with a new little icon that indicates higher than average rock fall potential. That's no problem.
WankerSkanker

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2002 - 12:00pm PT
Mid Summer 2000, my partner was beaned by small rockfall while racking for Cold Fusion. Very small release, nothing bigger than grapefruit sized.

Mid Summer 2002, I got hit with a small rock on Harry Daley, again very small release (five or six gravel sized pieces) was probably just junk blown off by the wind.

I don't consider these incidences even rockfall...go climb in the Tetons for a while, sounds like a bowling alley there. Personally, I think you've got a better chance at getting brained on Committment because of the traffic and loose crap at the top/walk off
dougs510

Social climber
down south
Mar 3, 2006 - 03:07pm PT
I did the Grack Center 2 summers ago.... great climbing... there were several parties climbing on it. I'm w/ matt, get in and out quick, but it's worth it.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
Mar 3, 2006 - 03:54pm PT
Hey Chris, Has ASCA replaced any of the old bolts on GPA? Those are probably more of a hazard than the rockfall. Several Years ago I did Point Beyond - Angels Approach- to Lucifers ledge. The rappels were terrifying. Lots of old mank up there.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Sep 3, 2017 - 06:28pm PT
I see on mountain project they list 43 routes on glacier point apron. They list the cow routes, but not "an udder way" nor "dead baby." Have those been erased by rock fall (an udder way is in the middle of the cow routes), or just aren't noted? I did those way way back in the day so they represent some nostalgia. Who knows, if they're there and safe, might even get back to them some day. :) Gotta be easier than in the boots I was wearing at the time. haha
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