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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Nov 29, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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It can take great ambition to achieve great climbs, but there can be a dark side to ambition too.
I've had opportunity to see how deeply the K2 experience affected Bonatti, and am so glad the truth is out.
RIP Lacadelli.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Nov 29, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
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Had the chance to meet him in Cortina, in September of 2006 while we were on a climbing trip. The english version of his book had just come out, and, seeing a couple of copies at a bookstore, I asked the store owner if there was a chance there might be any signed copies available. She said, "just a minute", and placed a quick phone call. Kinda unbelievable, but, there he was. I'd no idear that he still lived in Cortina.
He was the total gentleman, with a very firm grip handshake, and you could tell by the twinkle in his eyes he was a character.
Neat that he trekked in to the base of K2 with his nephew who summitted on the 50th anniversery climb. K2 Sport still going strong in Cortina, and, still a great place for local beta, guidebooks, gear, etc.
-Brian in SLC
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 29, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
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So glad that Lino died with a clean conscience and could truly rest in peace. He participated in more than 160 mountain rescues so he will be well received by St Peter!
K2 has a long history of disgraceful expedition politics starting with the way that Fritz Wiessner was vilified by the American Alpine Club after being turned back just 800 feet short of the summit in 1939! He simply likened Himalayan climbing to war and the accusations began to fly that he was teutonic and cavalier with the lives and well being of other team members! Unforgivable in my mind and part of the reason that I am not an AAC member.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Nov 29, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
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Yup! His climbing shop in Cortina, just down and around the corner from the campanille, is well worth the visit. Cortina prices, but a large selection of gear.
Bruce
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 30, 2009 - 09:33am PT
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They had an abbreviated obit in today's
Denver Post. RIP to a great climber.
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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
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