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| Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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May 14, 2009 - 08:58am PT
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So Anders, does that mean if I climb K2 that I will live well into my 90s?
Coolaboola. How much are permits nowadays for the mountain?
THAT MUCH!!!
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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May 14, 2009 - 10:21am PT
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So Anders, does that mean if I climb K2 that I will live well into my 90s?
Yes, if you actually manage to survive the climb.
Tuesday I saw a great slide show by Don Bowie on K2. They had to back off their original objective, which was a new route, and "settled" for the Abruzzi Ridge. Anybody who climbs that is badass.
An Italian and a sherpa died the day he summited. His crampons were stolen from camp 4 and he had to descend without, resulting in a fall in which he broke his foot. So he ended up descending with a broken foot and no crampons. Tough dude.
And so were those Italians in '54.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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May 14, 2009 - 10:38am PT
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LA Times obit says the Italian Alpine Club last year confirmed Bonatti's assertion that Compagnoni and Lacedelli moved Camp 9 in order to prevent Bonatti from summitting. The Club also rebutted Compagnoni's accusation that Bonatti used some of their oxygen and that they ran out. "Compagnoni and Bonatti never reconciled."
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 14, 2009 - 10:50am PT
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Italian alpinists seem to have good longevity genes. I just saw Bonatti at the Piolet d'Or and he looks great at 80 and Cassin is going strong at 100.
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coloradohigh
Trad climber
milliken, co
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May 14, 2009 - 10:58am PT
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just last year? man, what treachery.
as my boss would say "lies and deciet i tell ya, lies and deciet"
The Mountains of My Life is still one of my all time favorite mountaineering books.
although compagnoni partaked on some scandoulus activity on that mountain, still got to give him some props. RIP.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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May 14, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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Not to take anything away from the Italian ascent of K2 but how about Fritz Weissner and partner getting very close way back in 1938. The Americans pioneered the Abruzzi Ridge almost all the way to the summit.
Bruce
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 02:35pm PT
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Wiessner, and Pasang Dawa Lama, got to about 8,400 m on K2 in 1939 - somewhere near the Bottleneck. They followed the route explored by the 1938 expedition (the Abruzzi Ridge), which reached about 7,900 m. Wiessner 'only' lived to be 88. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fritz_Wiessner
It's sad that the successful 1954 expedition, in particular Bonatti's role in it, should have resulted in such recriminations.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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May 16, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
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For some reason, these big expeditions have a lot of soap opera type stuff going on. Look at the Buhl on Nanga Parbat, the Messner Brothers on the same mountain, the 1971(?) International Everest expedition, etc. There was so much intrigue at Everest base camp during the tragic 1996 season you could almost cut it with a knife.
Bruce
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 16, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
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In 1954, this guy climbed K2.
The mountain of mountains to this day, even with our modern gear.
A moment of silence for Achille Compagnoni .....
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| Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
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