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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I love Clint's guide!
RE: Thin start to Toxic Shock.
Ghost, yeah the problem isn't so much in the age of my butt as the width. I did make it up it, but it felt full-on desperate. I felt surprisingly comfortable on the (easier) wider cracks, though. This it Tess on the start, and it was interesting to see the difference between her climbing this (styled it) and the wider cracks.
Tess on the harder face just left of Corner Flash, Agent Orange.
Corner Flash
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Yous guys have done a great job of Photoshopping all the verdancy out of
the cracks and adding all those nice blue skies.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 30, 2014 - 11:12pm PT
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bump
I'm checking it out Friday, depending on work obligations.
Some of you must have been climbing there already this spring.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Cool to see this thread show up again, I wish I had something to add besides stating the fact that Index looks awesome & I really want to go climb there this year, hopefully before it gets too hot out.
Let us know how it goes Darwin!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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I really want to go climb there this year, hopefully before it gets too hot out.
Jeezum, it ain't like its in Alabama...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 27, 2015 - 08:57pm PT
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Bump for Rolf.
What route is Mari on?
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Finally got on Rattletale this past weekend, what a classic!
Also climbed the route to the left of Rattletale, which is on the previous page as "Avenging the goddess Kring" but I think it is actually "Chasing the Lizard".
I think Avenging goes to the left of chasing the lizard. There were a couple of bolts on a mossy slab followed by cracks, then a bolted corner (vines/bushes) to an anchor. Needs to be cleaned.
Chasing the Lizard was clean and fun. Do most people step left across the face to the first anchor (after the wide crack) instead of finishing with the bushy climbing to the second anchor on the large ledge 40-45 meters up?
We finished the day with Magic Fern at private idaho, such a sandbag! If you are expecting 5.9 climbing definitely go LEFT after the hand crack in the pillar, otherwise you are getting into some major 5.10 funkiness on the right!
I love Index. Keep this thread alive! Unfortunately I didn't get any pics worth posting, maybe next time.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Mike, that looks like the lower section of Roger's Corner. Hard to tell with the crazy shadows though!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I think Avenging goes to the left of chasing the lizard. There were a couple of bolts on a mossy slab followed by cracks, then a bolted corner (vines/bushes) to an anchor. Needs to be cleaned.
Route names are confusing there. Mari and I have spent a few days over the years cleaning whatever it is that seemed like the best line for us. We thought it might be "Non-stop Erotic Cabaret" but when I wrote a story about it a while back Clint (who wrote the old topo guide to Index) said no, it was Avenging the Goddess Kring. Who knows?
All I know is that it's a great climb that seems to get very little traffic. Why trudge up there and climb Rattletale and then go home without tasting a little more pain?
We've always done it in one pitch, so I'm not sure about intermediate belays.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Aaron it's Roger's.... ^^^^^^ maybe? Lol Crazy shadows was the theme on that edit. ;)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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We thought it might be "Non-stop Erotic Cabaret" but when I wrote a story about it a while back Clint (who wrote the old topo guide to Index) said no, it was Avenging the Goddess Kring. Who knows? I agree with TacomaDome, the long double crack in the above photo is Chasin' the Lizard.
In my comment on your 2010 photo trip report
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1243593/Nature-visits-the-Non-stop-Erotic-Cabaret-vaguely-on-topic
I was fairly sure it was not Non-stop Erotic Cabaret, because that shares belays with Rattletale.
But I misread the topo/caption in Darryl's guide.
Reading your description of what Nature climbed, it's fairly clear he was in the crack and not on the bolted face.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Reading your description of what Nature climbed, it's fairly clear he was in the crack and not on the bolted face.
Very much so. Crack and/or corner all the way from bottom to top.
What I don't know is whether it's all one guidebook-named route, or whether it's bits and pieces of more than one. The first time we really checked it out we had dropped down and left a bit (climber's left) from the top of Rattletale, and rapped in one v-e-r-y long double-rope rappel down past all those climbs that criss-cross up that area. It looked really good, but quite dirty, so we came back later and did some cleaning.
That gave us a really terrific long single pitch of Index 10a. But as I say, it may take in parts of more than one original route.
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Chasing the Lizard is really fun and definitely deserves to see more traffic.
I am intrigued by Avenging the Goddess Kring, the viney/bushy bolted corner looked fun, if it were clean. Those awful looking plants probably grow back quickly though.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Those awful looking plants
Hey, Uncle Fred planted those, you know.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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Variation: Chasin' The Lizard – Start up the right crack and continue to the belay ledge at the top of the regular second pitch. A bolt protected slab leads to the top.
Avenging the Goddess has much better climbing than Chasin the lizard up to the ledge. We cleaned Chasin' after the Goddess because the chimney was chocked full of vine maples. Dave was laid-off from Boeing and suddenly had lots of free time and thus Chasin' the Lizard was born. Most of the veggies on Goddess are probably easily cleaned blackberry vines.
A five minute walk away you can find this probably dirty crag: http://www.rcnw.net/forums/topic/499-red-wall/
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2015 - 09:34pm PT
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Aaaa! Don't kill my thread, psycho-n00b!
This one time on Green Dragon I set a #2 Loweball and found out that you can't shift on them while weighted or they pop?
That was a ride...
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TacomaDome
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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The view from the upper town wall is spectacular.
There is something about Index, hard to put my finger on, but it's one of those places that can inspire me to climb harder and push myself like no other place.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Really good bolts.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I am definitely going to take yer word on those bolts' integrity, Mr Bolton!
But you must have had some doubts in that you did equalize them*. ;-)
* Or whatever that lashup is. :-)
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Yeah, I think that one is called the "Young and stupid" tie in. That's my cousin Don in the photo around 1978. He was more gifted in the fashion department than the rope handling skills area.
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