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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Clint,
You gave the pic of the "T bar" I was saying we used on Crack of Fear. Thanks for showing it. Makes me wonder, again, why the heck we used 'em as they didn't grab at the tips very well (unless on nubby rock) and tended to pivot. Ugh.
Tom Higgins
Long Ago
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Museum is correct, those are Edelrid Bivo cams as introduced by Claus Benk, I think 1984.
Crack n ups yes, but more rare, they made a size ZERO!
but they never sold 'em.
and yes Kris, my leeper z chocks looked just like yours, never used!
odd not to see any moac listed
diamond peninsula gear
or those bizarre clog nuts? the obtuse mickey mouse looking things that were Denny's answer to Hexcentrics?
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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these did catch on... yikes!
I've got a Leeper Friend of a Friend that Deuce sent me a while back in a pile of stuff.
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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or those bizarre clog nuts? the obtuse mickey mouse looking things that were Denny's answer to Hexcentrics?
Clog cogs? I had a few of those when I first started climbing - closeout from someplace as I recall.
Jim
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Lee Bow
Trad climber
wet island
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how about SMC CAMALOTS ?
They were possibly the most useless thing on my rack. I never could get one to stay put!
I actually made a wole mess of tube chocks out of a broken aluminum mast that were more useful...
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Here is some old DMM ice pro. State of the art in the 80s, these were pound in, screw out ice 'screws' Largely replaced by modern ice screws - that actually work, unlike the screws of old that were a b*tch to put in.
Jim
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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More Forrest oddities. Forrest Arrowhead. Basically a stopper made out of copper.
Jim
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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The whole Forrest arsenal... or at least most of it...
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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MOAC nuts should have caught on. They just didn't make enough of them.
Single wire chocks were too "floppy" and difficult to place
The SMC thingys were called Camlocks
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Yes, someone DID say Crack-n-ups!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Last time I checked, The Bass Pro Shop in Springfield, Mo had Camlocks.
Like anyone gets climbing gear there, eh? Riiiiight.
I like Crack n Ups. Only have a 2 & a 3, though.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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The rest of the Forrest arsenal...the whole xylophone...
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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holy crap!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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The Ed Leeper Friend of a Friend was a great tool for removing Friends. In one hand you could pressure all of the cam lobes, and in the other fiddle with the lobes with a nut tool to free the stuck cam.
Steelmnkey - Nice Forrest Titon lineup!
Bill Forrest made a lot of different Titons where the sets overlapped at #9. Shown in Steelmnkys photo is uncolored set #1-10 (missing 7,9,10) which has a slot for flat webbing, and uncolored set #9-17 which has round holes for the webbing and two rows of drilled lightening holes. Set #1-9 was also sold colored. Set #9-17 was sold with the ends tapered and flat top, and also sold with the ends tapered and also a taper across the whole the top/length so you could use it like a piton. Forrest Chimney Chocks are like the larger Titons but usually have two webbing holes.
Steelmnkey - In your photo of the Forrest nuts you show a wired hex. I always thought that Forrest only prototyped the hexes and they only had one single wire like his nuts. Does your two hole hex have a tree stamp on it?
Ed B - Crack N' Ups were first shown in the Chouinard 1973 Supplement catalog showing #1-6. Historically Crack N' Ups were not created/sold until 1975. Talking to Tom Frost and Yvon Chouinard they said that the #1 was a problem since it started to bend/fail at 160lbs/or body weight. Only ten #1 crack N' Ups were ever created and 6 were destroyed in the testing. I have seen only one #1, but it was not for sale. Unknown who has the other three, or if they even exist. Frost and Chouinard did further testing before selling them in 1975.
Rock on! Marty
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Those Forrest Arrowheads are a fantastic chock. I acquired several of them a few years ago and decided to take one out on the rock just for fun.
It has never left my rack.
Still the most useful nut I've ever used, the thing fits in everywhere and sticks to the rock like a booger in a blanket.
I also have a MOAC nut I carry on my rack from time to time. Not as rare a nut as some might think. I've got about a half dozen of em I've collected in just the past couple years.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Although not technically a piece of "gear",
the shoulder-stand as an assist to a climb seems to have fallen out of favor
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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...maybe with you it's fallen out of favor! I'll use that one at the slightest provocation.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Rokjox - the CMI cam lobe thingy is called a Rokjox. The version without springs is called a Kirks Kamm.
The leather sheath you show - is it homemade made for the Alpine ice axe?
Is it made by chouinard, or is it an old Touchstone Design Nutscratcher Nut tool sheath?
Rock on! Marty
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I have seen only one #1, but it was not for sale. Unknown who has the other three, or if they even exist. Frost and Chouinard did further testing before selling them in 1975.
A friend of mine said he had one, but it slipped down behind a built-in bathroom counter and he never managed to remember to retrieve it before selling the house.
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