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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 5, 2010 - 11:26am PT
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This is something Bridwell came up with. It has a concrete nail and was intended for use in small openings in a seam. It may work on a broken copperhead. Either way it is pretty interesting.
Ken
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Ken, question is, did he ever use it?
I'm sure I wouldn't have!!!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
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SteveW,
I don't know. If he did it wasn't often. I wouldn't want to stand on it either. Still pretty cool.
Ken
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Crack 'N Ups
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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how about those cassin "blitz" cams that looked like a folding ladder. Tried one out at a friends shop in a homemade jig and it was bombproof, took one outside and... well, lets just say there is a reason you don't see them around.
anybody have a picture? I've looked and can't find one anywhere.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Round "Pecks" & other tube chocks.
That piece above follows the logical progression from Bridwell's aluminum dowel technique.
Just goes to show, sometimes having NO money can be the engine for development.
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Matt M
Trad climber
Alamo City
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removable bolts have gone through several generations since that picture. I've heard they're very popular with the new router / sport climbing set.
Max Cams? Got a lot of pre-release hype and then people seemed to notice they were a lot harder to place correctly.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 05:45pm PT
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I posted this one before. It certainly qualifies. It worked well but was too heavy to justify climbing with it.
Ken
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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It worked well but was too heavy to justify climbing with it.
Ken
What the heck is it?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Yeah. In auto body work, the original is called a slide hammer. They are used to pull out dents in bodywork by screwing the business end into the sheetmetal and sliding the weight hammer-style to de-dimple it. An early funkness device.
Back to the original post and Bridwell tool. By the time this piece got made, El Cap was getting the final crap climbed out of it and seams were what people were finding instead of actual real cracks once they finally got up to some of the features scoped beforehand. Drill the seam a little as if it was a crack and use this little monster. It was one of those kind of "netherworld" tools, half way between legitimate aid (pins, nuts, cams & similar) and the world of devices like bathooks and removable bolts.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, ken, peter... wow, you learn so much around here...
thanks for the history and such...
:)
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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I invented a hand on a pole, the Trick Clip, to place and remove RB,s.
Turns out it works for SLCD,s too!
The concept has not been fully developed.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Does anyone remember peanuts? I don't have any to post a photo, but a friend had a set. They were pretty good.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Crackjacks (invented and manufactured by myself and Les Wilson, 1965)
the strongest wide protection ever made, let me tell you. Broke climbing ropes trying to extract them from cracks with a running start with a car and 20 feet of slack!
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Do you all think Tri-Cams are in this category? I used a couple of the big yellow ones on Paisano’s back when, only because we couldn’t find anything that big that was clean. Anyway I found they rattle a bit the second one I set cleaned itself !!! Which at the time was motivating. I NEVER used them again.
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Crackjacks (invented and manufactured by myself and Les Wilson, 1965)
Classic and (I think) un-heard of before. More info / a story?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2010 - 07:17pm PT
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Peter,
Do you have any of those babies left?
Ken
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Beatons - looks like a Chuck Wilts knifeblade made out of thick aluminum for later ascents of worn-out knifeblade placements
Bashies - a small cube of aluminum with a hole in the middle, to bash into a worn out placement for a tied off angle piton
Mashies - similar to a bashie, but a thinner rectangle aluminum shape designed to be mashed with the wide face into a hollow that never would have held a piton. Royal had me demonstrate these to Lionel Terray on a Camp 4 boulder. Terray scoffed that would never work. Then I placed one and he was able to stand on it in slings.
C-clamps - for thin expanding flakes, I took a small C-clamp and mounted a small block of soft aluminum on the bearing faces to widen the force applied to the rock to avoid cracking the rock. I made these for the first ascent of the hard aid route to the left of Midnight Lightening (later repeated by Bridwell)
URPs - similar in use to a RURP, only much smaller, about the size of a small postage stamp with a small hole in one corner.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Leeper Z-Nuts...
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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How about pin bins?
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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or Colorado nuts?
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Tacoma Hook
Rene DesMaison Rappel Hook
Pierre Allain Rappel Hook
Jumar Ascenders using the original rigging method
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Leeper nuts! Had several of those things on my rack. To be honest they scared me.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Ken. I don't. But Les Wilson does. He even has set up a site for them. Les-wilson@Att.net
I would think he would be responsive to having the museum have one. Let me know if you want help Ken.
Disaster, no we have had this crackjack stuff a bunch of times here. Use search for "crackjack" and you should get a boatload of posts. Also Go to the site I quoted to Ken.
In a nutshell, Les Wilson and I developed (1964-5) this turnbuckle sort of device with interchangable midsection tubes for sizes. The angle ends were floppy for variations in the rock and by rotating the body one end being threaded would extend in length, the opposite end just rotating in place. You slung the rotating end and if you wanted to tighten them extremely you used the tube sling and your hammer to rotate the unit. When even just moderately tight they rang like tuning forks and were really mighty strong.
In some circumstances you could place a unit with one hand too. Even hand-tight they were super strong. I have calculated that we could make them again now for about $125 and still make a little money.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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More/ I am on my phone here: the more general point is that this device was kind an abomination to climbers of 1965 but now is vastly simpler than ordinary cams of today. By needing to climb cleaner smarter and quicker the game has really changed for hardware. A crackjack has about 12 pieces compared to dozens of a C4 or Linkcam.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Salewa Cinch Blocks or whatever they may be called...Perfect for crevasse rescue duty with gloves on. Totally efficient little device.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Wow Steve, those things look like a pretty cool, simple but effective little device.
Probably not justifiable to carry around for that "just in case" scenario, but for quick rescue work I could see their usefulness.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Awesome Steve!! I was unaware of those too.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Big tri-cams are clunky, sure, but I don't leave the ground without a pinky.
I have a big tri-cam. Well, it ain't that big. It's a * 5. It lives at home, mostly.
I like the Salewa blocks. Very cool.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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groundup... While the PinBins are cool I am drooling over that fine example of a vintage Forrest sling! Those things were so nice on the eyes.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Peter, didn't you write about the Crackjacks on the Hourglass thread?
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I think I wrote a story to the old rec.climbing about the day I picked these up from Porter's shop in El Portal(?). Since the story involved drug use by people other than myself, I'm not reposting it. I haven't found the rec.climbing archives. Are they out there?
Peter H.; is that your place where the crack jack picture was taken?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Charlie never made enough of those to catch on! Nice!
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Yeah Cap.
It was a moment. But it worked out as for the smaller stuff friends or stoppers filled the job for us.
Thanks and cheers, DT.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Those Salewa prusik blocks look pretty cool.
I second that! Never seen them before.
Thanks Steve.
DT.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Darwin,
Yes, rec.climbing archives are searchable. Here's a slightly edited
version of your post that focuses on the Porter nuts.
Darwin O.V. Alonso Aug 19 1996, 11:00 pm
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
From: dalo...@u.washington.edu (Darwin O.V. Alonso)
Date: 1996/08/20
Subject: building cams, Yosemite Lore
The talk of making cams reminds me of one rainy fall day
in the Valley (TIOOYK, Yosemite) in about '72. This was
pre-Friends, but after nuts really started taking off in
the Valley. The more mechanically adventuresome climbers
were hunting around for alternatives to the clogy hexes
imported from Britain and the newer Chouinard hexcentrics.
I don't know if Friends were a glimmer in Jardine's eyes
yet, but Charlie Porter, Valley aid guru, was trying out
ideas. On that particular rainy off-day, the Pollock
brothers (Matt and Bruce) and I headed down to Porter's
machine shop in Midpines for a visit.
Somewhat peripherally, I had taken fall quarter off from
College of the Redwoods to be a climbing bum, but now was
agonizing about making this a permanent condition. The
alternative was going on to for degree in chemistry at a
university. Porter adamantly voted for climbing bumdom.
...
Getting back to the story, Porter was onto a new cam! He
had these prototype P1 - P4 nuts. He had dug into the
enginering literature and came up with the rounded cam
shape that Jardine (later?) used. However, Porter didn't
quite get the active camming part. They looked very much
like hexes, but Porter had rounded two of the faces to some
magic curve that would hypothetically give a great
mechanical advantage if they rotated. He milled them
out of solid aluminum stock, and the walls are (I just
measured) 3/8" thick, compared to about 1/8" in
hexcentrics! We were dazzled, though, and bought a couple
of sets. Over the years, I've actually used them a number
of times, although, they never did much more than act as a
passive lumps. Nonetheless, these must be very valuable
collectors items, I still have the set, and if anyone wants
to finance my retirement, please give me a call. You see, I
returned to college and could use the money.
Darwin
------
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ec
climber
ca
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Interesting OP. Didn't Bridwell 'create' the first beaks out of Crack n' Ups? OP pic looks like its inception. To the contrary, this DID catch on (at least in idea).
 ec
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Bridwell had all sorts of shizz in his beakrack.
He was showin' it to Tyson & Boulos when they climbed "Tinker Toys".
Crazy stuff. Some of it even worked. His line. not mine. :-)
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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How about these things. I can't imagine they sold alot of these. Every one I've ever seen looks like it's never been placed.
I like the design but I think they would be more useful in much smaller sizes, like black to red Alien small and with a flexible stem. They certainly would have the narrowest head of any cam out there. Much narrower than Aliens or Mastercams.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nature, Les Wilson and I used crackjacks in 1965 to do the third ascent (aided up the wazoo!) of the right side of the Hourglass. There are photos up on ST on it even showing that. It was a really eccentric ascent. I was a 16-year old kid never before in such a situation and Les was an old mountaineer type who loved to aid. That was the only climb I ever used crackjacks on. I wasn’t really into them back then but would be now.
Darwin, yeah, that was the deck at 46 Del Mar, Berkeley, where I grew up. I even chiseled that chimney making a route on it up on to the roof above my bedroom. And the monterey pine in the backyard had eyebolts right away when I began climbing in 1963. Hilarious, obsessed maniac teen. Quite the chaise longue, huh?!
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Clint dug up the article, but in case anyone wants to troll the old wreck dot climbing archives (still an valid usenet group, but nothing but spam posted these days), google bought the old dejanews archives and a searchable archive of rec.climbing is here:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.climbing/topics
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Gym Birdwall
Gym climber
The "Koop"
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Here's one from ST member karabin museum. Found it in his pics. What's up with that, Marty?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Rooskie Mini-Jugs seemed sweet to me!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Weird asymmetric tri-nuts? So versatile! I can't imagine why everyone doesn't use these. Where do I get the rest of the set? ;)
I love da small tri-cams but I could never really get inspired to try and place this:
I've climbed with someone who still actively uses those tetons. They are actually good if you have those cracks with "lips". Totally useless anywhere else unless you are in it for the weight training.
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Let’s hope these don't catch on...
Bill Forrest made some decent plastic or Teflon nuts in the 80's. One of my partners still has one on his rack and it works great. The shape was the same as his foxhead chocks.
Crunch- did Harvey ever use his rack when you two climbed together? Hehehe, good times!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nice belay Teeton on the bottom!
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Omega Pacific makes them still???????
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jmap
Social climber
NC
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these look like a sort of tri cam cam. fascinating concept.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Peter,
Wish I had had those jacks on the right side of Hourglass, as you describe. Left side too. And several other Yosemite cracks I can think of. Probably way better than our tube chocks.
Another long ago protection device, pretty useless: T-Bars. They were T section aluminum stock with slanted tips and a hole drilled through one end. Sorry, no pics. I remember some fellow in Colorado loaned us (Mike Cohen and I) a set to do Crack of Fear, a chimney, off-width thing. I placed them but was not at all sure they would have held.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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These are the original plywood cams that Jorge Urioste made to bolt Ixtlan.
They worked well but me thinks aluminum works better.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Tom- Something like a Forrest Chimney Chock? A #17 shown here.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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If I can get through some of my old slides,
I may have a picture or two of Dave Rearick's osage orange (wooden)
chocks. Pretty amazing. . .
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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I dunno, those old Forrest chocks were worth something...
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jmap,
I have a set of those cams. Bivos were poorly made and walked out of cracks faster than you could place them. I think I used them on a handful of climbs but are now hanging on the peg board in the garage.
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yosguns
climber
Durham, NC
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Fun stuff. I really like remembering that it was only early 70s that friends still weren't around. Not long ago at all when I consider all the amazing things in this world that have been accomplished since then. Naive? OK...maybe a little.
From hoipolloi in a hexy thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=768633&msg=771607
I was at the REI in Berkeley a couple years ago trying to pick up a nut tool last minute for a climbing trip (they disappear from us like crazy)...and wouldn't you know, the only one left was this leeper specimen? While apparently still manufactured...design didn't really catch on in my circles. Probably because they don't work as well as bottle openers (and as hoipolloi pointed out, weigh quite a bit). They are also awkward for general trad use. Meant more for the hammer? I don't really know.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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I believe this is the T-Bar (or T-Pin) that Tom is describing.
They do look pretty insecure!
Cropped description:
"LONGWARE T-PIN PITON. Aluminum alloy piton of T-shaped
stock. Application is to wide cracks. Piton hammered in across
crack as shown above. Avg. wt. 2 1/2 oz. Lengths as below."
The photo is from Les Wilson's page with the 1966-67 Ski Hut catalog.
http://www.les-wilson.com/WSCrackJacks/history.html
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Steve, I used one of those big Forrest T's as a deadman anchor for a belay on a steep alpine snow slope, it was as good as anything else I could have gotten in there. It was either that or a snow bollard.
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Nice belay Teeton on the bottom!
Steve,
Yep, Forrest called it a Triton - you could use it as a nut, a belay device, or a rapel device. The green 'piece' in the middle was a webbing pro piece. a 'more advanced' take on the knots slotted as chocks. You could unwind it to change size to fit a given crack.
My original rack had had a some Forrest Titons, but I have never used any of these items, although I remember seeing the P-nuts and Triton in shops.
Jim
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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I thought this piece of equipment had a chance. But for some reason Organic and Compost-able gear had little appeal. Guess I'll go hug a tree,
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Camp Monos
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insainio
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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The oddest thing I have seen so far is the thing in the top left corner of rwedgee's last picture. What the hell is that???
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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The first thing that the Bird made has only two crimps on the cable sleeve, you need three to be full strength
But thats what makes it A4!
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yosguns
climber
Durham, NC
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rwedgee, is that a new type of climbing booty in the upper lefthand corner of that fourth/last photo? Looks real sticky!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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JMAP - Nice Edelrid Bivo Cams!
Brian - I love that Titon bolt hanger, but I would hate to hit it during a fall.
Clint - You are my hero! I have that LONGware T-Pin Piton.....somewhere....
I could never find any info on it, except for its similarity to the two T-Pin Pitons used on the FA of the Nose. Photo below is from the book "Vertical World of Yosemite" by Galen Rowell page 45. The aluminum T-Pin Pitons in the photo have a flat end at the carabiner hole where the advertised T-Pin Pitons have an angle end. Maybe this was a modification between 1958(Nose FA) and 1966(ad date), or the T-Pin Pitons Harding used were not LONGware and were sawed off shelf brackets made by Harding himself.
The T-Pin Piton I have is one inch wide and six inches long with angle end at carabiner hole. It is so light you can hardly feel its weight in your hand. I can't believe LONGware sold these. They are kinda scary. More like a chock than a piton.
Rock on! Marty
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Acer
Big Wall climber
AZ
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Kinda heavy but works really good.
Mastadon 000
Rock on! Marty
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Ok, not actual pro - but pro related. anyone want to guess what it is used for? Bonus points if you know what it was called.
Jim
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Did someone say Crack-n-ups?
Jim
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Cam trigger retractor / nut tool?
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Lee Bow
Trad climber
wet island
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It was a tool for removing friends that had "walked" into a crack
Called a Friend of a Friend
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Yup, the great Ed Leeper made them.
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Very good Disaster & Lee!
Jim
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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Clint,
You gave the pic of the "T bar" I was saying we used on Crack of Fear. Thanks for showing it. Makes me wonder, again, why the heck we used 'em as they didn't grab at the tips very well (unless on nubby rock) and tended to pivot. Ugh.
Tom Higgins
Long Ago
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Museum is correct, those are Edelrid Bivo cams as introduced by Claus Benk, I think 1984.
Crack n ups yes, but more rare, they made a size ZERO!
but they never sold 'em.
and yes Kris, my leeper z chocks looked just like yours, never used!
odd not to see any moac listed
diamond peninsula gear
or those bizarre clog nuts? the obtuse mickey mouse looking things that were Denny's answer to Hexcentrics?
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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these did catch on... yikes!
I've got a Leeper Friend of a Friend that Deuce sent me a while back in a pile of stuff.
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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or those bizarre clog nuts? the obtuse mickey mouse looking things that were Denny's answer to Hexcentrics?
Clog cogs? I had a few of those when I first started climbing - closeout from someplace as I recall.
Jim
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Lee Bow
Trad climber
wet island
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how about SMC CAMALOTS ?
They were possibly the most useless thing on my rack. I never could get one to stay put!
I actually made a wole mess of tube chocks out of a broken aluminum mast that were more useful...
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Here is some old DMM ice pro. State of the art in the 80s, these were pound in, screw out ice 'screws' Largely replaced by modern ice screws - that actually work, unlike the screws of old that were a b*tch to put in.
Jim
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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More Forrest oddities. Forrest Arrowhead. Basically a stopper made out of copper.
Jim
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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The whole Forrest arsenal... or at least most of it...
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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MOAC nuts should have caught on. They just didn't make enough of them.
Single wire chocks were too "floppy" and difficult to place
The SMC thingys were called Camlocks
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Yes, someone DID say Crack-n-ups!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Last time I checked, The Bass Pro Shop in Springfield, Mo had Camlocks.
Like anyone gets climbing gear there, eh? Riiiiight.
I like Crack n Ups. Only have a 2 & a 3, though.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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The rest of the Forrest arsenal...the whole xylophone...
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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holy crap!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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The Ed Leeper Friend of a Friend was a great tool for removing Friends. In one hand you could pressure all of the cam lobes, and in the other fiddle with the lobes with a nut tool to free the stuck cam.
Steelmnkey - Nice Forrest Titon lineup!
Bill Forrest made a lot of different Titons where the sets overlapped at #9. Shown in Steelmnkys photo is uncolored set #1-10 (missing 7,9,10) which has a slot for flat webbing, and uncolored set #9-17 which has round holes for the webbing and two rows of drilled lightening holes. Set #1-9 was also sold colored. Set #9-17 was sold with the ends tapered and flat top, and also sold with the ends tapered and also a taper across the whole the top/length so you could use it like a piton. Forrest Chimney Chocks are like the larger Titons but usually have two webbing holes.
Steelmnkey - In your photo of the Forrest nuts you show a wired hex. I always thought that Forrest only prototyped the hexes and they only had one single wire like his nuts. Does your two hole hex have a tree stamp on it?
Ed B - Crack N' Ups were first shown in the Chouinard 1973 Supplement catalog showing #1-6. Historically Crack N' Ups were not created/sold until 1975. Talking to Tom Frost and Yvon Chouinard they said that the #1 was a problem since it started to bend/fail at 160lbs/or body weight. Only ten #1 crack N' Ups were ever created and 6 were destroyed in the testing. I have seen only one #1, but it was not for sale. Unknown who has the other three, or if they even exist. Frost and Chouinard did further testing before selling them in 1975.
Rock on! Marty
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Those Forrest Arrowheads are a fantastic chock. I acquired several of them a few years ago and decided to take one out on the rock just for fun.
It has never left my rack.
Still the most useful nut I've ever used, the thing fits in everywhere and sticks to the rock like a booger in a blanket.
I also have a MOAC nut I carry on my rack from time to time. Not as rare a nut as some might think. I've got about a half dozen of em I've collected in just the past couple years.
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Although not technically a piece of "gear",
the shoulder-stand as an assist to a climb seems to have fallen out of favor
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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...maybe with you it's fallen out of favor! I'll use that one at the slightest provocation.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Rokjox - the CMI cam lobe thingy is called a Rokjox. The version without springs is called a Kirks Kamm.
The leather sheath you show - is it homemade made for the Alpine ice axe?
Is it made by chouinard, or is it an old Touchstone Design Nutscratcher Nut tool sheath?
Rock on! Marty
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I have seen only one #1, but it was not for sale. Unknown who has the other three, or if they even exist. Frost and Chouinard did further testing before selling them in 1975.
A friend of mine said he had one, but it slipped down behind a built-in bathroom counter and he never managed to remember to retrieve it before selling the house.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Then the hundred versions of that lightweight Chuny hammer.
Nah, not quite a hundred.
Less than ten?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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I seen teeth ground in a dozen different patterns, lots of teeth, few teeth, teeth near the handle, not near the handle, no teeth. Pointed pick, flat pick, god knows how many variations... I think some didn't even have the worthless carabiner groove just behind and under the head (presumably for pulling out pins and screws like a claw hammer?).
You said lightweight, and, posted up an alpine hammer. There were a number of versions of that, with, a pointy tip ('67 or so) then blade with teeth, notch behind the head (presumably for riding in a holster, methinks, added later), some with 4 teeth, up to a bunch the whole length.
The blades sans teeth were "crag" hammers.
Anyhoo, between all three of the major types of Chouinard hammers, what are we up to Marty, around 25 or more different ones?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Brian - I have 35 Chouinard tools with hammer handles listed, and between you and I we have 26-28 of them. After the new year I plan on putting a guide together to show all of the differences. That means I am putting you to work in early 2011. Tell that guy to go back to the house and rip that counter out and retrieve that #1 Crack N Up!!! This is for historys sake!!!
Rokjox - the gear is spelled RoKJoX
Rock on! Marty
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Lee Bow
Trad climber
wet island
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whoops...
Looks like I owe th folks at BD a HUGE sorry/gosh darn!
Hang my head in shame
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Brian - I have 35 Chouinard tools with hammer handles listed, and between you and I we have 26-28 of them. After the new year I plan on putting a guide together to show all of the differences.
Ahh, you must be listing at least 3 or 4 versions of the Climaxe, then.
Speakin' of odd pieces of gear that never really caught on...
Back OT!
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Forrest made a bunch of variations on the copperhead idea. Some where meant to beat on, some were meant as passive pro. Here's another example.
Back to the thread topic: I think we can all agree that it's a shame Forrest Mountaineering didn't catch on. The man was an innovator and free thinker. I wonder what he would have come up with if he were still making gear. Anybody near Salida Colorado want to ask him?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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#5 Bigbro
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Metolious Rope Hook. Useless and annoying.
Metolious Waldo without droppable leg loops. WTF?
Metolious easy aiders. I think I've only heard of 1 or 2 folks who use them, yet I see them in shop fairly frequently (well, when there were ships good enough to justify the drive).
BD funky tiny nuts. I think I've made 2 placements with mine, not why live in the closet of shame.
Wild Country Offset cams. Just too specializedI think.
4' rabbit runners to allow the best of both worlds, great idea, but they just don't grain traction ever.
Backlock Chouinard biners. Counter intuitive the couple times a partners have ended up on the rack.
DMM Revolver. One or two uses (stacking rope on big walls) they are apparently nice for, but I've yet to witness one in the wild.
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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The Ed Leeper Friend of a Friend was a great tool for removing Friends. In one hand you could pressure all of the cam lobes, and in the other fiddle with the lobes with a nut tool to free the stuck cam.
Yeah! I paid for mine first trip out by recovering another teams walked cam, got my partner & I a pitcher of beer as I recall.
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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BUTT SACKS! Did anybody ever manufacture butt sacks in quantity?
I don't know about the quantity, but Yates produced them for years - still have mine hanging in the garage.
Jim
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Pika's Z pins were too wide and awkward. The toucan pitons were nice after they rounded the nose and teeth off.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So a RoKJoX is a kind of nut...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sure, but he may be on to something; anyone ever even touch an anti-piton?
18" Blue I-beams had a limited appeal, as well.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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The earliest butt bags mfgd I know of was from Dolt. Robbins made them, Yates and many other companies. I believe that Chouinard/Black Diamond mass produced them. A5/North Face presently sells a nice big wall seat. On the big walls I still preferred to drag along a piece of wood as a seat instead of the butt bag. The butt bag took the pressure off of your waist but still squeezed the crap out of your legs and butt.
I am sure in the early days many climbers created their own homemade butt bags. Harnesses were not that good back then, more like two inch webbing tied around your waist. Climbers had to have some kind of waist squeeze relief system going on as they were hanging off of the big walls.
Brian - Yes I am showing four different Climbaxes. Between us we have three samples, but that 1972 version still has not surfaced.
Rock on! Marty
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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That was the whole deal with the "revolutionary" Whillians 'Sit harness' no more need to take a butt bag!. Alas, only better for eunuchs...
i had a forest(?) two point BB, then a Chouinard three point. then a Misty mtn 3 pt unit that came in it's own strap on stuff bag,
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perswig
climber
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My Gigi gets taken out periodically. I like it - no muss, no fuss.
Dale
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Gene
Social climber
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My Gigi gets taken out periodically. I like it - no muss, no fuss.
If you only knew what gigi means in Mandarin Chinese slang....
It's a useful piece of gear, but never really hit the big time. I sometimes put it on my rack due to all the tricks you can do with it.
g
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
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Feast your eyes on this baby.
Two views of a #1. A rare piece.
Ken
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perswig
climber
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^^
I'd trust that more if it were rigged with something other than kite twine with an overhand...
Edit: totally kidding, Ken - that kinda mood tonight. Sorry!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2010 - 07:53pm PT
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Perswig,
Sorry, I was too lazy to pull the cataloging tag off. That string is thin, even for kites.
Ken
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Don't worry, Ken. It might fold before the line broke. Those things are THIN!
Bad thin.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2010 - 09:33pm PT
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Captain,
They are thin. I can see why they didn't sell them.
Ken
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Ken - Does your #1 Crack N Up have the Chouinard mark # etc on it? In the photo it looks just flat.
I am curious who you got it from?
This piece definately belongs in the Yosemite Museum.
It is a very beautiful piece! Gives me goosebumps!
Rock on!
Marty
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
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Marty, Tom Frost gave it to me. It does not have any markings.
Ken
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Laugh, damn you! It's easy.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Vermin Meat hook. It's an awesome boat anchor.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Gear thread. Beware the drift.
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Way to kill an interesting thread.
Sometime this place is a cesspool
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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This is a cool thread, plz don't do the whole Locker/Rokjox routine.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:13am PT
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For the record I think it is wrong for people to doctor your photos when you have asked them not to do so.
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:20am PT
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By all means, post the pictures, post new gear, old gear, broken gear, stolen gear, fixed gear, even third gear, granny gear, and top gear...
Let’s all just stop doing stupid sh#t... and get along for a little while. We are a community and of course we won't get along all the time but we shouldn't work to run each other off.
Just sayin'
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:39am PT
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I'm Two Thumbs up for what Groundup has to say!
By all means, post the pictures, post new gear, old gear, broken gear, stolen gear, fixed gear, even third gear, granny gear, and top gear...
Let’s all just stop doing stupid sh#t... and get along for a little while. We are a community and of course we won't get along all the time but we shouldn't work to run each other off.
Just sayin'
I think:
Let's keep the schoolboy pile-on crap for the Politard and Religitard threads!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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I have some sliders
......Jokeyshorts, You could use a bonghit. Seriously.
Seething is bad for anyone. Quit it.
Double standards are bad, too. Breathe. Relax.
Don't be a 'Tard. Untard.
Yeah, I know, it's not a fricken' word. All the same. T'was a joke.
Locker jokes a lot.
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:52am PT
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Nice slides, is that little cabled blade a CMI specimen?
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 10, 2010 - 01:00am PT
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Naw.....Vermin Rurps. He made 3 sizes. I have a #3 & 2 #2's.
Dig it.
I threw in the Seam Weasel for a bonus. Yay!
I sold Chris Trudeau some of 'em. He said they were great on Half Dome.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Dec 10, 2010 - 01:00am PT
|
Ken - That is the same #1 Crack N Up that Tom Frost let me hold/show off during one of the Outdoor Retailer Shows. He said that he eventually gave it to his son. I am glad that it ended up in the museum. It is a very rare piece!
I started going to the Outdoor Retailers Show 16 years ago where Tom Frost had a booth and gave away signed photos of his historic moments. I had the privilage of sitting with him for hours talking about gear. Chouinard was at the show and Robbins and hundreds of other stars. The show is still the same but the Yosemite old age is starting to fade into the history books. These days at the show I carry around a #2 Crack N Up on my name tag in memory of the conversations with Tom.
Ken - Thank you so much for sharing this piece with the world.
Rock on! Marty
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 10, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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I appreciate the photo that RJ posted, of some cool gear. He and I seem to have started climbing at about the same time. RJ may blather on about non-climbing subjects, but has posted some interesting and on-topic stuff about climbing, and his youthful adventures.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 10, 2010 - 01:32am PT
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Got a few sliders/quickies/ballnuts m'self:
Big bongs and rurps...rurps went the way of the dodo when beaks came into vogue...
Bad idea jeans harness:
This is going to make a comeback. Leashless...and...shaft-less:
Quickies? No sizes, no markings:
Didn't folks use Aliens? Ha ha.
SMC Camlocks:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 10, 2010 - 03:16am PT
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used well in the 'new expand gear' thread, but placing it here because how many of us are willing to ride an expando flake to the ground!?
woot!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Dec 10, 2010 - 09:09am PT
|
Brian - Not Quickies but a set of Climb Tech - Tech Nuts
You do show two DBest Quickies (yellow / Black) in your first photo captioned "Ball Nuts"
That Stubai ice pick is really cool, and dangerous looking.
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Lee Bow
Trad climber
wet island
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Dec 10, 2010 - 11:54am PT
|
Does anybody remember the Lowe Hummingbird?
I STILL use mine!
I have wool knickers too...
Really!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
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Which version?
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Lee Bow
Trad climber
wet island
|
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:31pm PT
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Yeah Brian!
Mine's that one on the bottom. LOVE that tool...
But watch your knuckes!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:41pm PT
|
Brian - After you visited me in the hospital in SLC, I was able to find these gems.
1966 Original Yosemite Hammer with silver print and flat head screw.
1967 Original Alpine Hammer with silver print and flat head screw.
In 1968 both hammers were changed to red print and phillips screw. The Alpine hammer head was completely changed so this square point 1967 Alpine was only around for one year. On the "My Hammer" thread is Peter Haans 4 hammer photo where he shows a 1968 hammer with red print that still has flat head screw. They probably were using up all of the old screw stock and maybe this is why Peters hammer has the flat head screw.
Rock on! Marty
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:50pm PT
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Wow, nice!
Do you think the head changed on the Yosemite hammer?
You're killin' me with that Alpine hammer. Likely to never see another come around. And, in great shape, too!
Ok, yeah, I covet. I'm a bad person. Ha ha.
Cheers!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
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Good ol' Hummingbirds. Great until the pick snapped.
They were kinda the rage for a while in Bozeman in the early 80's. Slayers of steep, cold and very brittle ice. Folks climbed with a short one in each hand. Easily enough, that, it seemed like cheatin', that is, until the pick busted. Then, fairly amusing to see the person try to get a screw in. Lucky if they had a snarg. Not so lucky if they had an old Salewa or Chouinard.
Chouinard played around with a half tube thing for their ice tools. Can't recall the vintage (X tool, or, newer X-15). If I can remember I'll pop up a photo of one.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:55pm PT
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Believe it or not that 1967 Alpine hammer was from Ebay and I got it for under $100.00. Nobody was looking that week!
Besides it looking old, it has never been used.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 10, 2010 - 01:13pm PT
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Yeah, I saw it, but, didn't want to put the hurt on ya. You're willing to go oh so much higher than I. Knowing that, I didn't want to bump you up.
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Lee Bow
Trad climber
wet island
|
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Dec 10, 2010 - 01:21pm PT
|
Oh man, you folks really aren't going to believe THIS
I have an ADZE vesion of the alpine hammer. It was given to me by a much older climber on the condition that I actually use it. Combined with the Humming bird they are a hoot.
Wish I could post a pic, but that's WAY out of my league
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 10, 2010 - 01:30pm PT
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Hammer handle with no spike?
Does it say "Chouinard-Frost"? If so, its a Climaxe. How many rivets hold the handle to the shaft?
What you want for it? Ha ha.
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Danholio
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 10, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
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rwedgee - can you still buy those camp monos? or... can i buy those camp monos off you? always wanted a tricam on a wire. that's the closest thing i've seen.
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Lee Bow
Trad climber
wet island
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Dec 10, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
|
Brian.
I'll have to check those things out when I get home. I'd love to know what the thing really is, but I'm pretty sure it's a Yvon C.
I don't have a computer at home so I'll reply Monday morn.
Can't relly see parting with the thing...unless you happen to feel like swapping for an x-box 360. Tee Hee
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 10, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
|
Great stuff guys! Thanks!
I'm digging thru my old gear, looking for something weird. I am really sorry I threw away my Forrest Blue Plastic Stopper. They were plastic over a "copperhead."
I never trusted it after I placed it with one side on a Feldspar crystal. I was standing, with my full weight on it, while I fished around for a good jam.
The blue plastic stopper popped, and I missed landing back-first on a ledge 10 ft. below by about 2". It worked out, that with rope stretch and rebound effect: I was bounced back onto the ledge in a sitting position.
When I looked at the blue-plastic nut later: it had a furrow, where the crystal had ripped through the too-soft plastic
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Dec 10, 2010 - 09:39pm PT
|
Nice Fritz!
I climb with a guy who has about a 40 year old rack and he LOVES that Forrest plastic nut. He places it everywhere and it can be a bear to remove if he sets it with his old CMI crag hammer.
I asked him what size it was and he told me he wasn't sure... it was at least a quarter inch thicker when he bought it!
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Dec 10, 2010 - 10:02pm PT
|
stop gap measure bump.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 10, 2010 - 10:56pm PT
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Chicken Skinner-
Steve Bosque built a prototype [out of plywood] called the Sky Stair. It was designed to clip to a bolt and allow one to stand above their top steps. This led to an aluminum prototype that was even more unstable. Ask Steve.
Best
lars
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Dec 11, 2010 - 12:04am PT
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Really old piton.
I found this one at an old silver mine, elevation 9,500 feet, in Central Idaho.
Some kind of a rock anchor?
Looks like a blacksmith "hand-forged" it. I think it dates 1880-1890.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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Dec 11, 2010 - 12:48am PT
|
Hand forged eyebolt probably bent to bite in a hand drilled hole!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Dec 11, 2010 - 02:15am PT
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Fritz, I have similar Piotns which have never been placed.
These ones in particular were fairly common and date to around the 30's or 40's. I'm sure the design was around long before that though.
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dipper
climber
|
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Dec 11, 2010 - 02:18am PT
|
Dime a dozen these things...
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Dec 11, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
|
During the great gear famine of 1977 the only piece of gear for sale inMinneapolis was this mushroomy blobby shaped Clog nut that was worthless. I think I gave it as a gift to old whatsername after I got the clap but I digress.........
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Dec 11, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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Dime a dozen these things...
yep, just never caught on though.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
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Dec 11, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
|
These definitely never caught on!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 11, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
|
I don't know those, Steve. WhatinHell?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 11, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
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Dolt bashies. For pin holes and strange slots. I have 16 of them and did use some of them. Untempered aluminum, really malleable!
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Dec 11, 2010 - 08:30pm PT
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Sort of like "lead-head" made from a rivet hanger and soft lead. I've pounded then into weird blown out holes in the Fisher towers. They work but I'm not sure complete and total terror will ever really catch on.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 11, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
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It is true. Bashies are really hard to evaluate. They do not make any telltale sound; they are really soft. And the sling method is hideous. But weirdly they can hold in the crazier spots . The suckers can get stuck badly though and require all kinds of trouble to extract.
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Dec 11, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
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I've run into mush from copperheads and unidentified metal bits before... you are so right, they are impossible to evaluate when bashed all to hell. My technique was to delicately place a birdbeak in the bolb...and then beat the snot out of it!
I have to say though, Dolt's bashie/blobbie things look better than most. He was an artist.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 11, 2010 - 09:06pm PT
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I remember a story (from Luke?) about when Porter took Luke Freeman for
practice aid on that boulder near the base of the Good Book and
Rixon's Pinnacle (name?). It was a completely blown out shallow pin crack,
you know placements 3/4" deep by about 3/4" wide by about 3/4" tall.
Porter insisted that they stack pins rather than use bashies,
because the bashies would have made it too easy.
I think they led it, and being a boulder, it was right off the deck.
Tangentially, I always thought that in 1970, Luke was probably the
youngest person to have done the Nose. Luke was 16 at the oldest.
Darwin
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 12, 2010 - 02:21pm PT
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Bear Rock, perhaps?
Porter, Burton and Sutton climbed in a style that viewed bashies as a last resort on the basis of technical challenge.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 12, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
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This is a fun thread isn't it.
Anyway, Darwin, I think you are on solid ground that Luke was the youngest climber to that date to have done the Nose, 1970.
No question that was Bear Rock too, Stevie. BITD it actually was a "place people from good society" might have gone for that purpose.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 12, 2010 - 04:25pm PT
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Ahhh yes, a Tapeasy!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 12, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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Somewhere on Bear Rock was doubtless one of these! Aluminum bolt hanger!
They shouldn't have caught on but are all over!
We called them Poptops since they had a tendency to lever outward under load! In actual use they would deform to conform and stretch wildly if shockloaded heavily.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 12, 2010 - 04:52pm PT
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I have several of those, as well as some that Jim Sinclair made, which were from simple angle aluminum. Small hole for the bolt, larger one for the carabiner. As Jim said and many found, not bad for standing on also - as long as they didn't rotate.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Dec 12, 2010 - 05:18pm PT
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i like mashies and bashies and used them to climb Bear Rock bitd. i made my own before they were manufactured by anyone
my recommendation at the time was that when they are well placed they should be left fixed, as removing them tends to destroy the placement
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 12, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
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Until stainless steel came into common use, those aluminum hangers would likely have a longer service life than the alternatives through rain and seasalt!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Dec 13, 2010 - 09:33am PT
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Gerry Mtn Sports was the first to produce that pop top style bolt hanger in 1950. Previous to that Gerry sold short lost arrow pitons that had a drilled hole for a bolt, Circa 1946. Gerry Cunningham passed away in summer 2010 in Patagonia Arizona..
Salewa copied Gerrys design and imported mass quantities of the Pop top style bolt hanger throughout the 1960s and 1970s. The Gerry hangers were unmarked. Salewa stamped theirs but on the rock side of the hanger.
Rock on!
Marty
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 13, 2010 - 10:52am PT
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Until stainless steel came into common use, those aluminum hangers would likely have a longer service life than the alternatives through rain and seasalt!
Nah, probably not.
Recall that cascadeclimbers thread on the Kong aluminum hangers busting at Index...
A friend pulled a few on an old route in the Humbug Spires in Montana. They were totally gouged out on the backside (some type of corrosion). Scary. My bet is they wouldn't have held body weight.
Edit to add, what's with the little "X" and three lines on the carabiner, Steve?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 13, 2010 - 11:01am PT
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The X is my stamp and I used to use three lines before that.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 13, 2010 - 11:52am PT
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Funny. Its the same mark a certain climbing gear company in Utar uses to mark their non-warrenty stuff. I use a dremel tool and auger in my last name.
Seem to recall seeing it on a bunch of Petzl biners that showed up at a gear swap. Scrap dealer was selling brand new Spirits for a buck per. Too good to be true, and, it was. They'd been scrapped for either not having been heat treated, or, some related issue. Sent to the scrap metal bin. Where they were rescued... Scary. Few years back. I believe they cut them up now. Yikes.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 13, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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That was always the joke that the X was for x-ing out other stamps so you would end up with the equivalent of a x-ed out Titleist golf ball! LOL
And a certain fondness for thrillers...
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Dec 13, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
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Peter, Darwin...Luke Freeman?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 13, 2010 - 01:29pm PT
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Marty,
Thanks for the history on those hangers.
Some of us had been wondering about who made them!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 13, 2010 - 03:18pm PT
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Fuzzy, yes Luke Freeman--- Darwin and Matt Pollack's friend from Berkeley. The one that called Robs Muir "that funky dude" and wouldn't climb with him at some point when otherwise they would have paired up from our group that particular day. It was funny as hell at the time too---Robs didn't let it get to him thank god. Luke was a good climber! I think Darwin told me Luke is alive but isn't climbing any more. Darwin should advise.
Darwin's photo of Luke probably 1972?
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grover
climber
The Gar, BC.
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Dec 13, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
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Who here has placed one?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 13, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
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That one above is in Yosemite, on a moderately popular route where most of the bolts have been replaced, but this one was slightly out of the way and was left alone. Probably it has not been used much.
I took one from Quarter Dome when I replaced a few bolts there; it was also in decent condition, but probably didn't get much traffic, either.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Dec 13, 2010 - 03:57pm PT
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Seems like I recall seeing hangers like that my first time up the north face of Sentinel in 1992.
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scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
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Dec 13, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
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To say Luke Freeman was a good climber is putting it quite mildly.
I hear he's raising a family in Australia. Darwin?
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 13, 2010 - 06:56pm PT
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scuffy b said:
"To say Luke Freeman was a good climber is putting it quite mildly.
I hear he's raising a family in Australia. Darwin?"
Yeah, Luke was the Natural.
AND: To say Luke has a family is also putting it mildly. He's raising quite the gaggle of kids. I hope it's OK I post this Christmas picture of his family that he sent me in 2003.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 14, 2010 - 01:57am PT
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There are 3 pin scars on p3 of the Nose with fixed/hammered nuts/bashies at present. Plus a broken off bong....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 14, 2010 - 02:47am PT
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There are bolts there too (4 now on the pitch).
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 14, 2010 - 10:16am PT
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But I don't see a diamond. I suppose it could be under the tape.
I've got a couple and I've never seen a diamond C on them. The newer design cliffhangers, yeah.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Dec 14, 2010 - 10:17am PT
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Dec 14, 2010 - 12:04pm PT
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Dec 15, 2010 - 04:57am PT
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What do you think of these ones...
"I said I know it's only rock 'n roll but I like it, like it, yes, I do.
Oh, well, I like it, I like it, I like it..."
Rolling Stones
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
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Stephane- I noticed that you are fondling some Cosmic Cams on your website photo!
The original Lowe Alpine System crack cam to accompany the double axle versions shown above.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2010 - 08:13pm PT
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Can't haul a cart without a winch. The only photo I have found of the winch. I have several of the cart though none are very good.
Ken
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Dec 20, 2010 - 08:43pm PT
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Can't haul a cart without a winch. The only photo I have found of the winch. I have several of the cart though none are very good.
There are pretty good shots of both the winch and the cart in Downward Bound.
Jim
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Dec 20, 2010 - 09:04pm PT
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These thread is amazing!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2011 - 12:08pm PT
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Not really sure what these are for. Sort of looks like a removable bolt.
I can't figure out what the springs would do.
Ken
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 16, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
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I don't see the climbing application...LOL
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
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Me either Steve. You might want to check out the picture off some Dolt boots that I posted on the Dolt stories thread.
Ken
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jan 25, 2011 - 06:59pm PT
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66/67 Ski Hut Advertisment, from Clint Cummins earlier in this thread.
I finally came across my LONGware T-Pin Piton
Rock on! Marty
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
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Nice Marty,keep them coming.
Ken
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
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Nice one! That T-beam has to be desert climbing inspired rather than granite.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 25, 2011 - 07:12pm PT
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Maybe a snow picket, though the carabiner hole is in the wrong end. :-)
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 25, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
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Hey! I still love and use my Forrest hammer for when I'm going light.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jan 25, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
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You don't see very many of these...
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Jan 25, 2011 - 09:01pm PT
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Last Friday I had the bone hardware removed from my right leg.
Right leg femur break at hip 7-2009.
And no the carabiner was not in my leg also.
The hardware did not show up on the airport scanner over my Christmas travels.
Rock on! Marty
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Jan 25, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
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Holy Crap, Marty - that metal piece is huge!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
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Double Yow!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 25, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
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That's Aid, Marty!
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rockjockrob
Boulder climber
Tempe, Arizona
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Jan 26, 2011 - 11:36am PT
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Hey Marty, There must be a collector at the hospital. It seems that someone pocketed a few of the screws from your leg. Those are going to be uber collectable in a few years.
Climb on!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jan 26, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
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Congratulations on being de-metalized Karabin Museum.
My climbing hardware is still working.
Removal is not an option.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 10, 2011 - 09:22pm PT
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A slightly less gnarly tidbit...
A Salewa Bi-Caps nut!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 11, 2011 - 06:20am PT
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Please Steve, may I correct a little mistake.
The Bi-Caps were not marketed by Salewa but by Bergsport International. They were created by Stefan Engers. (Patent DE 35 26 402, 5 February 1987).
This company also marketed the other Stefan Engers’ creation, the Joker (Patent DE 35 17 741, 5 March 1987).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2011 - 11:04am PT
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Stephane- I missed your correction on Jeff's thread.
Absolutely no offense taken in correcting anything that I post. Your information is always solid. More on these interesting nuts, please!
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jnn
Trad climber
ny
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Jul 17, 2011 - 08:25am PT
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Hey, cool classic gear. dont surpose you want to sell the CMI RoKJoX by any chance.
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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Jul 17, 2011 - 11:03am PT
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an amazing thread.
Some of the prototypes and obscurities posted are truly great. But in my own mind, the greatest all time piece of "gear that didn't catch on"?
The Forrest Roll Your Own, chock. That one takes the cake.
Great stuff everyone - TFP.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Jul 17, 2011 - 11:38am PT
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Here's Simond's contribution to the utterly useless list: The French should really stick to bolts...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 26, 2011 - 01:36am PT
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Did anybody ever use these? They look like they might have been halfway decent.
Aug '76 "Off Belay"
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 26, 2011 - 01:38am PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 26, 2011 - 01:41am PT
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Dood, HOV lanes did catch on. On the other hand those backseat drivers...
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jul 26, 2011 - 03:06am PT
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jaaan, this nut has not been made by Simond. It’s a Six-Coin made by New Alp (Jean-Paul Fréchin), in 1984.
Tubes (1984) #1 to #5
Tricoins (1984) #1 #2 #3
Six-Coin (1984)
Bicam Mécanique (1986) #1
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Jul 26, 2011 - 05:25am PT
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Knowing your background Stéphane, I suspect you're right! I've just looked at them again and can find no identification on them. I seemed to remember that these things were made in Cham and assumed - I don't know why - that they were Simond - maybe the colour.... I think we can agree though, that they are useless. If you look at my photo you'll see that I used one of them winter climbing in Scotland. Even with the aid of a hammer it was crap!
To my mind, NewAlp's finest contribution to climbing gear was the Magic Plate, which I still use in preference to all its copies.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 26, 2011 - 05:35am PT
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Did anybody ever use these? They look like they might have been halfway decent.
Love a ton of CMI gear, but those we called those "the swivel of death"...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 26, 2011 - 11:41am PT
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I said they look like they would be halfway decent because their geometry
looks pretty close to the old school Abalakovs which I still carry because
they are light and, ok, are good conversation starters. Even before the
springy-thingies appeared I mainly used my Abalakovs for belays where you
could keep an eye on them for their wandering ways. Those Kirks Kamms don't
look nearly as light as Abalakovs but pre-springies it seems they woulda
been useful for tough placments at belays like in the ad.
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Jonnnyyyzzz
Trad climber
San Diego,CA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 06:29pm PT
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Some of the first gear I ever owned. My Dad bought it for my 11th birthday along with a Gold Line and some steel lockers from a old Mountain Rescue guy
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 29, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
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Don't dis Crack-n-ups, those things work great for clean aid.
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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Jul 29, 2011 - 09:12pm PT
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What do you mean "didn't catch on?" Hell, I still use that stuff!
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fosburg
climber
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Jul 29, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
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That Colg right hand rope grab is freaking classic and should be valuable!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 30, 2011 - 02:54am PT
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Forrest Foxhead, SMC #2, CLOG #2
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jul 30, 2011 - 02:58am PT
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Maybe a CM Jonnnyyyzzz, in fact "FM" that stands for Forrest Mountaineering. And this nut is a Foxhead #3.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 30, 2011 - 03:05am PT
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Don't dis Crack-n-ups, those things work great for clean aid.
Hell, they work great for free climbing if rigged right...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 30, 2011 - 07:39am PT
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And the swivel of death thingy is actually cool in CERTAIN placements
Maybe the spring loaded one which I'd never seen - but the unsprung one? Death - never saw a placement I'd trust it in and I'm pretty reasonable with pro.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Did these ever go into production?
Rock on! Marty
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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I guess these were not a big hit?
The flexible CAMs - work good
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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About the original post and Bridwell's nail. Such a thing would be
perfectly suitable for tricky aid. People who didn't or don't do much
difficult aid don't realize you rearely need to put full weight on
something. Sometimes you distribute weight between three or four things
or even more. A nail in a seam could be bomber if it went in the
right way. I had similar devices I created in the early 1960s when
Dalke, Kor, and I were doing a lot of hard aid pitches... I mentioned
somewhere else I made a rurp of my own somewhat lousy design, but
it worked on several pitches approximating A5... We had all sorts of
these crazy little toys... some stuff we simply stole from our fathers'
workshops...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Crack 'N Ups... I used them all the time, a really great Frost
invention among so many others of his.
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Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
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Sep 21, 2011 - 03:30pm PT
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Climber's Iron Balls
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=cast+iron+balls+nuts
They are mine - shameless of me I know.
I listed them on Ebay to see if anybody would buy them as a gag. I'm planning to make more as gifts before Christmas. I am trying to decide what size to make and if I should make offset sets.
Perhaps I should donate them to the Nuts Museum
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 21, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
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Tom Rohrer has a couple of similarly shaped "walnuts" that are cast in walnut shapes. He uses them for pro/aid! While singing "what kind of a nut are you?" :-)
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Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
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Sep 21, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
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Drilling one hole them easier to make but not as pretty. Perhaps I'll make some that way to test and see if thy are as strong as the usual way.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Sep 21, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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Wow, an actual handle less Clog "Death Ascender" - very cool!
Have heard of them, but never actually saw one. Nice pics!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Sep 21, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
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Those rusty old pins found in a mine a few pages back are most likely candle holders. I have found several in the Panamints and Inyo range mines with wax all over the ring end.
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Loomis
climber
Peklo Vole!
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Sep 21, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
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# 1 Crack n Up
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 22, 2011 - 12:51am PT
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As Chouinard shut down a person there was kind enough to root around and send me the last of them they found. I've been free climbing over them forever and taken a few falls on them over the years including a thirty footer on a #2. But, they definitely never caught on...
How I have them rigged.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 31, 2013 - 11:50am PT
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Crackin' Bump...
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donald perry
Trad climber
kearny, NJ
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Does anyone know what the deal is with the round pick? It seems to me to work better, with less dinner plating. Were any texts ever done to see what the differences were?
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Plastic European stoppers. Mammut as I recall. YECHHH!!!
Circa 1978
I suppose they wouldn't deform under load too badly in soft snow.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I carried a blue plastic Foxhead around for a very short while until I got tired of messing with it getting stuck. I liked the weight but not the wait...
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