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PP
Trad climber
SF,CA
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Mar 11, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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Tucker always voluteered to go first when we were doing single point rappeling in the dark with no headlamps.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Mar 11, 2011 - 06:10pm PT
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Face it, you trust a single biner when belaying and it's going to take more stress in a big leader fall than a biner holding a rappel,
Still, there's ways to have some back-up at low cost. Just a webbing loop that doesn't quite snug up to the rope can back up a single ring or biner and not use up too many resources needed for more raps.
Having back-up in for all but the last guy is a good step too.
The real killer than few have a back-up plan for is Fatigue and depletion. That's what makes you screw up and you're just as likely to crash your car on the drive home as on the rappels if you don't get real with yourself about if you're bonking. Keep eating and drinking if you've gone epic if you can.
Peace
Karl
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Brandon-
climber
Done With Tobacco
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Mar 11, 2011 - 06:13pm PT
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When I was a landscaper, I used to cut 2'' PVC pipe with a string as fast as it could be cut with a saw.
It sounds improbable, but I compel you to try it.
Friction is friction.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Mar 11, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
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I have rapped off a single point but only when I had to. Can only think of a few times and it seemed to be more common once I had mainly a cam rack. I was just to cheap to leave more than one of those suckers.
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disneyland freakshow
Trad climber
California
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Mar 11, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
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This tree was "on top" of the church bowl more to the left "Black is brown" area, though a bit out of the way from where most people would belay or rig anchors, id never noticed it and passed by that point daily, after some heavy rain there it was, sitting in the middle of the walk off, I wonder when it was last rapped off of.
Note no rap rings or biners, there was a slight burn from the rope on the underside.
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Auto-X Fil
Mountain climber
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Mar 17, 2011 - 09:59am PT
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Bomber! Well, bomber enough for one use.
Redundant? No. But, bomber tree, bomber sling, bomber knot.
It's "knott" gonna fail!
What's it look like after I pulled the rope? I dunno, but very few people rappel this route, so hopefully the next guy or girl climbing up cuts this off for me, like I did with some webbing left in a place I was able to downclimb.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Mar 17, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
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Mank
At least they had two slings, but the bush is only 2 feet tall, and that single welded ring ain't made for climbing.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Mar 17, 2011 - 02:21pm PT
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Somebody's gotta post that great paragraph from The Dancing Woo Li Masters.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 17, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
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Here is a good one, found on Bunny in the gunks...
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Mar 17, 2011 - 06:09pm PT
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I remember watching the pitons flexing while I was hauling on the Regular Route on the NW on Half Dome. Can't remember which pitch exactly, but those aren't still there are they? It was around '98. That was freaky.
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