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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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good to see fistful get some love.
HG what's the project. It sure looks fun
Tom
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2008 - 11:38am PT
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Tom its in Kings Canyon, no name yet, but we all agree it is hard.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Bachar, was that "Winds of Whoopee?"
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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I checked out some great looking stuff in Kings Canyon. I'd like to spend a lot more time there. Too bad I could probably walk to roads end in the same amount of time it takes to drive there from Bishop.
That butterfly problem at josh looks great. I want to do it, where's it at?
Tom
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KrisK
Social climber
San Diego
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Tom Woods,
Butterfly is at what used to be called Trashcan Rock,
a.k.a. Quail Springs Picnic Area, between Hermeneutics and the Sawdust Cracks.
KrisK:
Good shot of High Noon up thread there coming up out of the Gunsmoke!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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bumping an old pic and new thread
Milks back when the hair was long.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2008 - 04:21am PT
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wes, I'm willing to share. It's in Kings Canyon across from the Zumwalt Meadows parking area. The best thing is on the hottest day of the year that huge boulder has nice cool air under it.
I'm headed to Bishop this weekend if anyone is up there. So, more pics to come.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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KrisK:
That bottom Black Mountain photo is one of my old problems! I didn't know folks still went there with the Tram so popular. Did you do the sit start?
And has anyone done the line to the left of the wide crack?
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KrisK
Social climber
San Diego
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That Black Mtn. Prob is now called "Tour de France" it just got sent a few weeks ago from the SDS (not by me) and called V11 or 12 basically F'n hard. Left of the wide as far as i know has still not been done. The wide is super cool too!!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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KirsK: "That Black Mtn. Prob is now called "Tour de France" it just got sent a few weeks ago from the SDS (not by me) and called V11 or 12 basically F'n hard."
It used to be called "Firewall," because of the flame retardant on the downhill slope. I had the sit start wired, but hadn't linked it when I left SoCal. Interesting that the full version would get 11 or 12.
The old beta was foot in the groove out right and then cross left to that horizontal. If you fell, you landed flat on your back. So it took awhile to work out the fa. Cool to see folks psyched on that area. And yeah, the wide crack is pretty cool.
(There's a killer 12 wide tr just down the hill from the back of that wall. It probably has a new name now, too.)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
Last >>
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Pretty standard stuff , but I'll try to keep a secret anyway . Hard to see the nuances too , but the right-side arete (center of photo) is really classic . I got , what I'm assuming to be the FA (sit) back in ' 03 or ' 04 .
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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there's a building behind that one?
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KrisK
Social climber
San Diego
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klk: "The old beta was foot in the groove out right and then cross left to that horizontal. If you fell, you landed flat on your back. So it took awhile to work out the fa. Cool to see folks psyched on that area."
The 11/12 SDS only uses only the diagonal offsets middle of the face. no horizontal or groove. its like 3 or 4 really hard moves on the diagonals with hardly any feet at all..its pretty ridiculous. sounds like you were starting on the left just right of the wide? i'm only trying to clarify so i can give my friends sh#t for not doing the FA and tell them the proper name! what year did you do these problems?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Well, the sit-start didn't really have anything to eliminate, it was a powerful weird move w/o any real feet, which was the sort of move i spent hours looking for back then.
the stand-up didn't go until the early '90s, 'cuz I can remember wearing slippers on it. I had the sit start down pretty good, but always fell from the last move. It used to be a safe but stiff fall-- no pad, you'd land flat on your back and it sorta limited the number of tries you'd take. i also always went there last cuz the rock is smoother and the holds bigger, so it was a good boulder for the end of the day, after the tips were trashed.
i'm surprised no one's done the obvious straight-up left of the wide crack. i'll see if i have any old slides. great problem, great wall, bullet rock.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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The slide isn't good. It's from July of 84, apparently before I made the change to Fires and sticky rubber. I think I'm wearing Ascenders.
Edit for resize
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
Last >>
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" there's a building behind that one? " Since you asked . . it's Mammoth Hospital . I usually park in thier lot when I hit it , but I'm starting to worry about access problems .
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KrisK
Social climber
San Diego
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thanks for the pic and the timeline...i always try to tell the folks i boulder with that alot of their supposed FA's have probably seen ascents and that black mountain has a long history of strong boulderers. also, there isn't always evidence of previous climbers...lichen grows back, chalk washes off, etc... so cool, your pic made my day. thanks
ever seen this thing??? it was "FA'ed" this summer too.
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