Discussion Topic |
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 31, 2008 - 04:24pm PT
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To bump up the climbing on here, I though a nice boulder thread was due.
So...what are some of your favorite boulder problems?
Every year I have to get on this one.
Saturday Night Live, Josh
Post up people!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 31, 2008 - 04:37pm PT
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Pigpen-josh
University of Mars-Blair
Cupcake-Vedauwoo
Mother Superior-Woodson
Bad Ass Moma-YV
others...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Oct 31, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 31, 2008 - 05:14pm PT
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I like these ones:
That's the money shot on SNL above... nice!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Oct 31, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
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More:
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 31, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
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my favorite one - where I can use a rope!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Oct 31, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
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Clint, if that's what I think it is, it's the best shot I've ever seen of it. I guess most people are belaying on the right instead of the base and can't get that angle.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 31, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
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Thanks, Will - sure, you know what it is. I swear I was just belaying there to give a better belay - less slack in the system and less of a side load on the gear. Although I suppose I did let go a bit to get the shot after my partner sunk his fingers in. Plus those bolts down and right are fairly recent additions, and I'm "set in my ways" :-) .
Here's a shot from roughly the same angle, by Marshall Burke:
But he was not as close in, so the holds are not so distinct, plus there was already sun on the rock for Marshall & friends.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Oct 31, 2008 - 06:15pm PT
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Scott_Nelson
Trad climber
San Diego
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Oct 31, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
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hey clint -- what route is that? astroman?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 31, 2008 - 06:51pm PT
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my fave... this season, tho I only got on it once...
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Oct 31, 2008 - 06:57pm PT
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some good looking crack problems posted up.
Favorite- Bachar Cracker in the Valley for sure
Buttermilks- the hunk and those big easy problems on the Saigon Boulder
Happy's, I'm a fan of the vulcan traverse and the big cracky juggy rail at the lower warm up area. Slow dance area? Weekender according to the book?
I'm lousy with names of these things. But one of my favorite sends, but the problem has since broken was suspended in silence at the pollen grain boulders.
You used to start with a dyno/deadpoint that left one had by your knee,then some business, then a tall finish.
Tom
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 31, 2008 - 06:58pm PT
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Scott,
> what route is that? astroman?
Yes, the "boulder problem" pitch.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 31, 2008 - 07:05pm PT
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My favorite this season:
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2008 - 07:14pm PT
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Nice posts! Munge you always have great shots and weschrist that crack would be a favorite too if I got on it. Oh, Street Car....my hips hurt just thinking about it. Definitely getting on that one this year. Here's some more.
OCD/ Kings Canyon
Black Snake Groan/ KIngs Canyon
Fire and Brimstone/ you guessed it Kings Canyon
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 31, 2008 - 07:26pm PT
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 31, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
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jaybro-- i really didn't need to see that.
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James
climber
Leavenworthless
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Oct 31, 2008 - 08:56pm PT
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I don't understand the obsession with crack bouldering.
There's a really sick highball crack in Leavenworth called Ruminator but you climb it as more of a steep sport climb.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Oct 31, 2008 - 09:10pm PT
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I was hoping I'd hit the bouldering pad if I peeled...
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2008 - 09:39pm PT
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Leave it to JB to shame us all.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Woah, HG where is that middle photo from?
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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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A guy named Chris.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 09:11pm PT
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JB that middle pic is up on top of the Palm Springs Tram.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Knobbing is best.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Left Ski Track
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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FA in Leavenworth WA:
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quartziteflight
climber
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vedauvoo
Biggest tits
Beer Crack
Gill Seam
That 11b hands to fists on walts rib
Other areas
Crack house-
Hobbit hole OW, Jtree
The scoop, rocktown
Slam dunk, Lilly
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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I have to contribute to this thread
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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The parking lot boulder at Castle Rock. The Yabo cave problem. I don't have any pics , but somebody posted some here once.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Fav sends:
White rasta
Streetcar
7 Spanish Angels
Hulk
Action Figure
Yo Picasso (Sunshine Daydream)
Greasefire
TC
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 03:33am PT
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wes...that sounds right. We were doing a modified version of the main problem, which I think was called "Which Way Jose" or something like that.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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here's a few from the 80's...
JB, do you remember "high profile knobs"?
and my all time favorite- circa 85...
ks
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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ks,
Looks like Shipley on the spot there, last pic?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Though I've yet to link it all up, I think the Crackhouse, and it's variations is pretty damn cool...
shot ripped from jaybro
The Birth Canal section is stout...
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Colby
Social climber
Ogdenville
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BriGuy: Are those pics fairly recent of one of those quaint Englishmen?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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The Pearl in Kraft is pretty cool too....
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Ha Ha, Tom I was just gonna look for those crackhouse shots when that one popped up in front of me, too funny!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Too good to pass up throwing one of yours in there too Jay!
This one was cool too...
Pocket Rocket, Joes Valley
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 02:35pm PT
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Nice pics Tom, the Pearl is a great problem.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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"Ropes are for sailors" - funny!
Pads are for menses.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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sweet shots. I'm not so good about taking pictures, so I have nothing to show.
But while we're talking crack problems, anyone ever do fist full of walnuts at J-tree? An all time classic.
Tom
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I, mememememe, yep, I named it "Fistfull of Walnuts"...
(obviously a play on Fistful of Dollars, with walnuts lending the connotation of gnarl)
Not that I did the FA tho.
'Was an early love affair with wide-ish hands and cruisy flairs.
I do find it nice!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Butterfly at Joshua Tree,
It really is a terrific boulder problem and then there is a bit of moderate soloing at the top...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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That walnuts rig is a little awkward Tar, but it'll help warm you up for So High.
More good 'uns at JT: High Noon, Chube, Gunsmoke, Caveman, Hobbit Hole.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 06:58pm PT
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Fist Full of Walnuts is one of my favorites, especially if I feel like beating myself up.
Hobbit Hole
And the business
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2008 - 04:12pm PT
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BUMP!
I want to see more pics to get stoked for this weekend!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sean at Catacombs
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salad
climber
Escondido
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wayno - yabo roof is one my favs too
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salad
climber
Escondido
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not the real parking lot traverse, but an excerpt... fun.
{Links to jeff n jen dot com have been disabled. Google reports the site is distributing malware. 6-4-13 st} /plt.htm
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Some new ones in the Northern Bourbons that quickly got pushed to the top of my favorites list:
Really nice patina on this one...
This boulder is just a few yards from the last one...
Lever Action
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2008 - 07:06pm PT
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Here's some more
And this is my project, it starts like this
Works out to this
And finishes here
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salad
climber
Escondido
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high grav is that second pic culp valley?
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2008 - 07:18pm PT
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Salad its in Josh, near the Barker Dam parking area.
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salad
climber
Escondido
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there is a low angle highballish slab at culp that kinda looks like that. its easy, but fun.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2008 - 07:45pm PT
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Cool, I'll have to check it out.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Bouldering in France last month.....total classic.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Errr... nice crashtrees, John!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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good to see fistful get some love.
HG what's the project. It sure looks fun
Tom
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2008 - 11:38am PT
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Tom its in Kings Canyon, no name yet, but we all agree it is hard.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Bachar, was that "Winds of Whoopee?"
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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I checked out some great looking stuff in Kings Canyon. I'd like to spend a lot more time there. Too bad I could probably walk to roads end in the same amount of time it takes to drive there from Bishop.
That butterfly problem at josh looks great. I want to do it, where's it at?
Tom
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KrisK
Social climber
San Diego
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Tom Woods,
Butterfly is at what used to be called Trashcan Rock,
a.k.a. Quail Springs Picnic Area, between Hermeneutics and the Sawdust Cracks.
KrisK:
Good shot of High Noon up thread there coming up out of the Gunsmoke!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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bumping an old pic and new thread
Milks back when the hair was long.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2008 - 04:21am PT
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wes, I'm willing to share. It's in Kings Canyon across from the Zumwalt Meadows parking area. The best thing is on the hottest day of the year that huge boulder has nice cool air under it.
I'm headed to Bishop this weekend if anyone is up there. So, more pics to come.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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KrisK:
That bottom Black Mountain photo is one of my old problems! I didn't know folks still went there with the Tram so popular. Did you do the sit start?
And has anyone done the line to the left of the wide crack?
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KrisK
Social climber
San Diego
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That Black Mtn. Prob is now called "Tour de France" it just got sent a few weeks ago from the SDS (not by me) and called V11 or 12 basically F'n hard. Left of the wide as far as i know has still not been done. The wide is super cool too!!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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KirsK: "That Black Mtn. Prob is now called "Tour de France" it just got sent a few weeks ago from the SDS (not by me) and called V11 or 12 basically F'n hard."
It used to be called "Firewall," because of the flame retardant on the downhill slope. I had the sit start wired, but hadn't linked it when I left SoCal. Interesting that the full version would get 11 or 12.
The old beta was foot in the groove out right and then cross left to that horizontal. If you fell, you landed flat on your back. So it took awhile to work out the fa. Cool to see folks psyched on that area. And yeah, the wide crack is pretty cool.
(There's a killer 12 wide tr just down the hill from the back of that wall. It probably has a new name now, too.)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
Last >>
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Pretty standard stuff , but I'll try to keep a secret anyway . Hard to see the nuances too , but the right-side arete (center of photo) is really classic . I got , what I'm assuming to be the FA (sit) back in ' 03 or ' 04 .
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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there's a building behind that one?
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KrisK
Social climber
San Diego
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klk: "The old beta was foot in the groove out right and then cross left to that horizontal. If you fell, you landed flat on your back. So it took awhile to work out the fa. Cool to see folks psyched on that area."
The 11/12 SDS only uses only the diagonal offsets middle of the face. no horizontal or groove. its like 3 or 4 really hard moves on the diagonals with hardly any feet at all..its pretty ridiculous. sounds like you were starting on the left just right of the wide? i'm only trying to clarify so i can give my friends sh#t for not doing the FA and tell them the proper name! what year did you do these problems?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Well, the sit-start didn't really have anything to eliminate, it was a powerful weird move w/o any real feet, which was the sort of move i spent hours looking for back then.
the stand-up didn't go until the early '90s, 'cuz I can remember wearing slippers on it. I had the sit start down pretty good, but always fell from the last move. It used to be a safe but stiff fall-- no pad, you'd land flat on your back and it sorta limited the number of tries you'd take. i also always went there last cuz the rock is smoother and the holds bigger, so it was a good boulder for the end of the day, after the tips were trashed.
i'm surprised no one's done the obvious straight-up left of the wide crack. i'll see if i have any old slides. great problem, great wall, bullet rock.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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The slide isn't good. It's from July of 84, apparently before I made the change to Fires and sticky rubber. I think I'm wearing Ascenders.
Edit for resize
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
Last >>
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" there's a building behind that one? " Since you asked . . it's Mammoth Hospital . I usually park in thier lot when I hit it , but I'm starting to worry about access problems .
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KrisK
Social climber
San Diego
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thanks for the pic and the timeline...i always try to tell the folks i boulder with that alot of their supposed FA's have probably seen ascents and that black mountain has a long history of strong boulderers. also, there isn't always evidence of previous climbers...lichen grows back, chalk washes off, etc... so cool, your pic made my day. thanks
ever seen this thing??? it was "FA'ed" this summer too.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Perhaps a down side to the internet and guide books for bouldering- no chance for multiple first ascents. It's fun to wonder whether you got an FA or not.
Tom
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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90 responses and no...
45 degree wall in Heuco?
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Back in the '80s, I expect we "FA"d and renamed plenty of old Largo problems from the 70s.
KrisK: Actually, I'm pretty sure that I do know that last boulder you posted with the blocky roof and the white granite underneath. But I was only there once and didn't do any of the lines. If it's the one I remember, it's pretty surprising that folks have found it again; and there's some interesting stuff nearby and just a bit downhill.
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WBraun
climber
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Awesome thread .......
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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werd biotch
keeping the boulerizing going...
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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What Handjam Belay said: unfortunately, it's a has-been. never quite stuck the dyno. Damn..
Ginsu knife, The El Murrays (also gone), The Donkey Wall, 5-Star, Star Power, Dragonfly...
don't get me started!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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ooooh, a big fave...
and I mean BIG
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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hate to do it again, but with a different rock...
What a Gull A Bull!? What a nin cow poop!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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recognizable now...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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eh, back to not so reconizable...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Broken problem on SPH
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Yep. That's Deadman's?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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unh! BIG...
crap image quality, but some good memories.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Max, I get red x, but if I copy and paste it I see it. Nice images.
MisterE, close. Bachar Boulders on that one recognizable one.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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I spent some time there and up at June lake. There's some good stuff about 2 miles in on the right - visible from South-bound..
Damn, that shizzle is sharp and steep! Classic Tuff!
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James
climber
Leavenworthless
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Max,
Your pictures suck. Maybe you should spend more time working at Gustav's and less time stealing internet in Peshastin.
I made it to Yosemite. WO-wo-we-wa!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I want to go here and do some establishing. Little further than 2 miles in, but good (s)tuff.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Hey Munge-- I was at that "broken" problem about two weeks ago. And is that conglomerate really any good?
If we're doing SPH, then let's go here:
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there all.. say, i just dropped in to see the boulders... i love rocks and boulders... (not when they are falling down hill, though, rightly said)... (love them even more when there are white mountain goats all over them...)
say, lynda has a right nice "boulder" in her yard, :)
nice to wake up to, when my mom and i stayed there...
when i first moved here, i went around finding the biggest rocks i could, to put all around the yard---nothing like lyndas, sadly, though...
yep--i seemed to have failed, though, at one point---yosemite, it is NOT...
thanks for all the boulder stuff, you all:
:)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Bachar Boulder A.K.A. June Lake Boulders, highball crack, BIG fave:
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nevenneve
Trad climber
St. Paul, MN
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A rather scenic FA over Lake Superior by a friend.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2008 - 11:37am PT
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BUMP!
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
thats what she said...
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church of lost and found- the catacombs
hero roof- the buttermilks...not hard but FUN. When I did this problem I said to myself 'now THAT is what they mean by a fun boulder problem'
peabody essential- buttermilks
jedi mind tricks- lidjia area (buttermilks) this one I am training for! what a beautiful line...
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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11 Mile Canyon...classic problem.
San Luis Valley.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 25, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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Bump. It's cold outside.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Feb 25, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
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High plianes drifter
Southwest arete
The Checkerboard
Pride
Black Widoew (not a high ball but still fun)
Ahwahnee Arete (I worked at the Ahwahnee for five months and I would always come out and do this on my lunch break)
My all time favorite if Midnight Lightning but I have no photos
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 25, 2009 - 04:40pm PT
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Amazon Face, over at Housekeeping (Yosemite) was always a fav of mine, not too hard (V3/4), but way classic and way high. I think Mike Graham did he FA, circa 1974. Unfortunately, I have no pics....
JL
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altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
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Lately I have dug on The Ramp SDS on Mortar Rock in Berkeley as well as the C+ Dyno Variation (V6) to the Center Overhang (V3) on Indian Rock.
Other favs:
The Rising (V4)-Buttermilks
The Great Stone Face Stand Start (V4)-Little Yosemite, Berkeley
Slap (V4)- Castle Rock
Swing Low, Sweet Chariot, FA (V4?)-Hell's Kitchen Valley
Astro Crack, FA (V5?)-Hell's Kitchen Valley
I have also been starting to obsess about Cocaine Corner V5 in the ditch which I have yet to get on, Jungle Fever over at Mortar, Strength in Numbers in the Sads and Fly Boy sit in the 'milks.
Has anyone on here ever gotten on Dont make me wanna kick your ass in the valley? I have seen way to many discrepancies about the grade to believe anything the guidebooks say.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Rustys Saloon
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Cilley Traverse
Zero Roof
Ironman Traverse
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inhisfootsteps
Sport climber
the heart of WY.
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FYI this thread is getting me PSYCHED...couldn't help but post a few of my favorites...
Revenge (Rocky Mountain National Park, CO)
Gill Problem (Snowy Range, WY)
Building Blocks (Vedauwoo, WY- absolutely terrifying/gratifying highball)
Daily Dick Dose (Hueco Tanks, TX)
Not to mention:
Nobody Gets Out of Here Alive- Hueco CLASSIC
Gill Seam-Vedauwoo
Micaela- Rocky Mountain National Park
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Great pic of that bloc in the Snowies. I didn't know folks still did that. Before sketchpads, it used to be terrifying. Gill tr'ed the fa. I spent a long time on that right side route when I was there in the late 1980s, up and down over the talus sharks.
Gorgeous spot.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2009 - 12:56am PT
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A few more.
Unknown problem at Horse Flats.
"Trim the Bush" Kings Canyon
June Lake Boulders
Cleaning a highball project for later this year. So far only done on toprope.
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inhisfootsteps
Sport climber
the heart of WY.
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Yeah Snowy Range was so so great when I got up there. The sad part is that there is such a small time gap to get up there before weather got bad. Glad to know someone else has gotten to see how gorgeous it is up there :)
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ct
climber
CO
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Moving to CO was the best choice my inner pebble wrestler ever made. Hands-down, the best boulder problem I've ever climbed is 'The Nothing' at Mt. Evans. Wish I had a photo that did that place justice...
Devious Methods
Serenity Now
Tombstone
Oblivion
My fav at the Happies - Heavenly Path
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ct
climber
CO
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One of the things I love about CO is that we can boulder all winter
(Climbing on the frozen river)
and all summer
(about 20 minutes upstream, 6 months later)
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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No pics but, Overlooked in pawtuckaway state park, NH and the chimney/offwidth at calico basin in red rocks.
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inhisfootsteps
Sport climber
the heart of WY.
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CT-- is that at Area A? I don't recognize the problems
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ct
climber
CO
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The obvious alpine bloc is at the Aerials. The rest of the shots are from RedFeather and the Poudre.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Sep 27, 2010 - 01:28am PT
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Bump for Bachar content and great bouldering pics!
Near Bishop V4
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 27, 2010 - 11:17am PT
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You went back and got that thing. Sweet problem eh?
We have to go try that foot breaker problem again. I have a new and bigger pad.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Sep 27, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Sep 27, 2010 - 02:51pm PT
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Mittens
climber
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Sep 27, 2010 - 03:49pm PT
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Sep 27, 2010 - 04:18pm PT
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Gunshy V5, Groom Creek
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Sep 27, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
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Yea Tom! Its good! Lets boulder soon! Tues night?
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Sep 28, 2010 - 01:30am PT
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Just like the OP, this is one of my favorites
Another one from Jtree
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Paul Otis
climber
Kings Beach
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Sep 28, 2010 - 10:35am PT
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Sep 28, 2010 - 10:37am PT
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RtM
Boulder climber
DHS
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Sep 28, 2010 - 12:00pm PT
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Hey HighGravity - I don't mean to bust your balls, but I think that "preparing" a problem as extensively as in your photo is a very bad idea. Boulderers really need to minimize our impact, as restrictions are on the horizon.
I had no difficulties climbing this problem as it is in this photo, and aside from a little chalk, nobody would ever have known I was there.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Sep 28, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
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Loomis.....what a freak.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Sep 28, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
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I don't have a proper pic, but the arete shown on the left here at Bliss state park is just fantastic.
http://www.supertopo.com/images/cover_thumbnails/spread_lt-bouldering.jpg
There's also a beautiful slightly overhanging face on the next boulder to the left that's one of my all time faves too (V5).
In little cottonwood canyon, 3 standouts in the realm of those that normal people can do are "Left Smiley" on the split boulder, "Lance's Dihedral" at the Secret Garden and "Shivers" at the riverside area. All V6.
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2010 - 01:12am PT
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RtM wrote: "Hey HighGravity - I don't mean to bust your balls, but I think that "preparing" a problem as extensively as in your photo is a very bad idea. Boulderers really need to minimize our impact, as restrictions are on the horizon. I had no difficulties climbing this problem as it is in this photo, and aside from a little chalk, nobody would ever have known I was there."
No problem, but I really didn't "prepare" much. We originally thought the problem would exit left (in fact I was close to finishing it that way), so I knocked off some loose pine needles from the top. There was no actual trimming of the bush as the name implies. I don't want to come off as pissed, but I know where my ethics stand and I am sure to minimize what I do.
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RtM
Boulder climber
DHS
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Sep 29, 2010 - 11:30am PT
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Thanks HighGravity,
Maybe I jumped the gun!
After comparing my photo to your's, and knowing that you named it "Trim the Bush" (if you're the same guy as on the other site) because you trimmed the bush to climb it, I felt mildly appalled by the change, and I just assumed that it was your handywork.
My photo shows an overgrown bush and about a foot of pine needles covering the summit of the boulder and the cleft. In your shot, the bush is trim, but it also appears that someone swept away all of the pine needles ('bout a metric ton worth!).
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Sep 29, 2010 - 11:50am PT
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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What? No one else likes the Robbins-Higgins traverse in the Pit at Indian Rock?
John
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Avery
climber
NZ
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A Chris Sharma problem at Flock Hill, NZ.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oh Pigpen for sure!
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| Messages 1 - 142 of total 142 in this topic |
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