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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Apr 19, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
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First of all, I been wearing hoodies since 1963. What goes around comes around. I was the messiah.
Second, Army Surplus wool and Forrest tools cause knuckles to bleed. 1970's Central New York ice shout out stylin.
Third, Peruvian tuques, 215 skis, ensolite pads and gaitors make me feel kinda giddy.
Fourth, Pagagonia showed up in the early 80's with neon polychome color coordination and I was still in my Hot Henry wannalooklike scap and Vaurnet clown reflector sunglasses. My bud was a do-rag visionary.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Apr 19, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
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Nuff said.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 19, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
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As recently seen in a catalogue that landed on several hundred thousand doorsteps, but earlier seen here. (They spiffed up the photos with the usual digital trickery.)
They're kind of cute when they're young, eh?
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chiindi
Big Wall climber
Lakeview, OR
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Apr 20, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
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Ben Davis Bib overalls, red or blue head scarf,(we were NOT Crips or Bloods) swami belt all haute couture at camp 4 behind the Chevron Station in 1973-74. You guys have way too many choices for climbing gear!
My gear: A 50mx11mm rope, 2 Jumars, a 50mx9mm haul line, 1 doz beaners, a few slings & runners, nuts, Lost Arrows, bongs, doz wired stoppers, a hammer, and a Chounard Great Pacific Iron Works catalog; still one of the best graphically illustrated treatises on climbing in the valley. Especially showing the climbers knots, placements, and clever rope and beaner rig ups.
I loved the Chounard dual reverse beaner break for secure rappels when lowering a lot of gear!
What tent? What helmet? ...Standing in slings and chain smoking all night was the climbers way of surviving a bivvy on the blank walls of El Cap.
You could smell the doobies burning on adjacent routes. Tangerine Trip, Dawn Wall, The Nose, Wall of EML, etc.
Lots of leader falls to see if you were really sticking it out there.
26 RURP runouts on Kat Pinnicle.
Sex on the camp 5 ledges with xxxxxxxx xxxxxxx. Not to many women climbers in the valley then, so I'll leave it to your imagination. It was a 2pm so the gawkers in the meadow had a good look. HEY!, IT WAS HER IDEA! Doing the pitch above naked was out of the question. Too much exposure!
Is it still around, the catalog that is?
My OJT was on the big walls.
Too much work, I'm retired!
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michaelc
Trad climber
Sydney Oz
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Apr 20, 2011 - 08:11pm PT
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Purple 22" flared loons, raggy pullover, rugby shirt, Whillains harness and EB's - UK 1970's.......
Where can I get some Moacs?
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Redwood
Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
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Apr 21, 2011 - 12:36am PT
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Robbins boots: I saw a British climber wearing Robbins boots lead Coonyard Pinnacle in 1969.
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Redwood
Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
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Apr 21, 2011 - 12:40am PT
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Am I right in assuming the model in "That notorious hip belay" is rmuir himself?
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ArmandoWyo
climber
Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 09:53am PT
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redwood, just the thought of Coonyard in RR makes my palm sweat. But also to try to recall when, and in what shoes I first did it. In 80s Coonyard, along with most of the run-out climbs on the Apron, were my favorites. But I don't think I had the cojones to do Coonyard before EBs.
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ArmandoWyo
climber
Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 10:29am PT
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rmuir, IT'S YOU! I recall in 70s starting out on the first pitch of CS Concerto on Manure Pile Buttress, when Jim Bridwell and another climber dresses exactly as you are in that photo, huge shirt, bandana, etc, and 2 girls, tied-in and Jim climbed up the face next to the easy crack we were seizing. Don't mind us, Jim said, as they blew by us. didn't know Jim then, and we were probably uncool in RR and knickers.
So, rmuir was that you with Jim? Years later I climbed the face and discovered it was a cruise, and today Jim and I meet at OR twice a year and compare our status on the slippery slope toward geriatric infirmity.
armando
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Apr 22, 2011 - 08:13pm PT
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Hey ya, Armando.
I recall doing that face when there were slower parties stuck in the crack, but I don't think I did that with Jim. (Tell us more about the two ladies, though...)
I wore that Greek wedding shirt climbing exactly once. After all, it is pretty silly but the costume was screaming to be used during the Suicide Party we had back in '74. What an amazing impractical shirt for any activity other than standing around!
The long hair and headband though were exceeding popular back then, so the Bird's partner could really have been any one of quite a few denizens BITD. I do credit the Stonemasters for the bandana craze; we're pretty sure Graham and Accomazzo exported it to France fashion in '75—based on what we saw in Chamonix in '76.
Robs.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Apr 23, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
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Armando,
Thanks for the groovy thread!
I did a double take when I saw that picture of you with big glasses (I had a similar pair) and hirsute visage. I remember you!
When we got to know each other in about '89, in the early days of the Access Fund, I remember you said that you were in the valley in the 70's. I couldn't remember you then, but the picture has jogged my memory and now I know our first meeting wast about 15 years earlier.
Far out!... as we used to say.
Here's to old, and even older, friends!
Robs,
That shirt was ahead of its time. Ever see the Seinfeld "pirate shirt" episode?
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Apr 23, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
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white painters pants summs it up for me ,,i"m shure there was a reason,,give me a minute,,,peace and love,,
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Double D
climber
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Apr 23, 2011 - 07:55pm PT
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Fashions in the 70's?
Mark Wolford in Cirque of the Unclimbables
Augie Klein on Mt. Harrison Smith, Cirque of the Unclimbables
Scott Grafton Keyhole Pass Sierras
The Bird showing his feathers
Claude Fiddler practicing "squatting"
I've experienced "a colorful past."
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D.Eubanks
climber
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Apr 23, 2011 - 09:03pm PT
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Nice pics Dave ....
A total 70's fashion fest ....
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Brock Wagstaff
Trad climber
Larkspur
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Apr 29, 2011 - 04:48pm PT
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Wild guess... Mickeys Beach?
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Apr 29, 2011 - 06:57pm PT
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John gotta Love Him Sherman
Lord of the Rings
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Apr 29, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
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Striped warmups, 1970's
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 30, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
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A Groovy Thread about Groovy Threads, some Tucson variants.
Dave Baker and I gearing up for the 5.9 testpiece Cripple Creek on the Pharaoh. Army fatigues and hand-stitched leather-covered kneepads.
An early trip up the Rappel Rock classic Helm's Deep. Just connect the knobs...
I bought a pair of Masters made by the House of Hawkins on a trip to Boulder. They came from the Boulder Mountaineer and were every bit as good as they were obscure, WBITD!
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ArmandoWyo
climber
Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
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Ricky,
In the last 20 years, we've worked, supp'ed, drank, climbed, fought, even cried together, but you didn't remember me from the 70s in yosemite! Those ancient photos weren't a jog to your memory, it was a full-on electro shock! (Course, I don't remember you, either.)
And latest batch of pixs remind me of the horrible Bell motorcycle helmets we'd drag out for some wall climbs. Mine was orange, pulled it out of a bag after 20 years of disuse, and the entire lining sifted through my fingers. Those are why us old-timers still don't wear helmets.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Bell Toptex Malibu perhaps? Originally designed for surfing if I recall correctly.
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