1970s Climbing Fashions

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ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 14, 2011 - 11:43am PT
These photos are a small collection of climbing paraphernalia from Yosemite and the Winds in the early 1970s. The focus is on our ropes. The son of an old climbing partner has a company called Farm Tactics that is using our old ropes to create designer tote bags for Levi’s high-end stores. After he used up his dad’s old stash, I sent him 50 pounds of old ropes. Go to Farm Tactics for Levi’s Tote Bags to see or even to buy yourself a nice “purse of a guy” for about $50.
Perhaps for publicity, they also asked me for photos of the ropes in use. I searched notebooks of slides from the early 70s, and put together images that drew the eye to the ropes, rather than our usual climbing hero and landscape shots.
But when I looked at the photos, however, I loved the knickers, knee-length socks, hand-sewn haul bags, PAs and Blue Boots. For some of us, these were the motifs of the time, as much as tie-dyed Ts, bellbottoms, and platform shoes.
A few of you may enjoy the recollections - or like me, be mortified by our de rigueur climbing costumes. Yes, we really believed that you needed knickers to climb. Some, like Gary Lane in these photos, made his own; I bought mine from Chouinard Equipment. The sharp-eyed will note the absence of harnesses, except one home-made one.
I’ve reconnected with Vern Muhr and Paul Moss, but haven’t heard from Gary Lane or Eric Ahola in 35 years. Regrettable, and I wish I had kept some of the gear. Those Chouinard cord knickers were still primo when I gave them to a friend in Jackson a few years ago. My B.A.T. haul bag is now with Ken Yager for the YCA Museum. I recall that it was used on at least two first ascents, Never Too Late to Rappel (West Face of Mount Watkins), II, 5.8, and Shaboom Tower (NorthEast Face of Tower Peak, YNP), IV, 5.9.
I have kept only a Chouinard cagoule. What can the trendsetters made from that?
Armando Menocal
S cole

Social climber
Urban hell
Apr 14, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
I always preferred the knicker socks with shorts look
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
Those were tube socks with the shorts, Scott.
And in 70s none of us had the guns for muscle shirts - or at least didn't know that is what we needed for the look.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Apr 14, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
Oh Mamma Mamma roof 5.10c (pic taken looking straight up, he's horizontal, on toprope), Taylor Canyon Gunnison 1976 - Notice EB's, Whillan's harness and painter's pants.




Comeback Crack 510b - Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon 1972 - Notice the RD's and homemade harness made from webbing.



D.Eubanks

climber
Apr 14, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Apr 14, 2011 - 01:37pm PT
Nice shot Dana...you look JUST like you did in high school, funny how were doing the same thing in the same place at the same time and never hooked up or even heard of each other then. Wasn't till our 25th reunion and I saw yer picture in the brochure, somewhere on El Cap!
Peace
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
Dana, nice knicker socks, thick and pulled down for comfort, but still wearing them in 1980? Hand me downs? That’s why we switched to painter pants, shorts and knee pads. But the RRs, with steal shanks, were just right on Dihedral wall. I even resold my RRs after sticky rubber to keep for wall climbs.
And Ron, painter pants and EB are practically modern, don’t ya think?
thanks to all for adding your pixs.
Gorgeous George

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Apr 14, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
Funny, BITD in Colorado we didn't have harnesses, just wrapped the rope (goldline to be sure) around three times and threw in a bowline. Hurt the ribs a little when we'd fall. Lenny Coyne (age 16) and I used to go to Turkey Rock before we knew what a topo was. He was famous for telling me (try to mimic a Jewish twang) "That crack looks tenable, do you want to lead it?" Knickers and knee socks were de rigour, but I bought all my stuff from Army surplus stores, including my first down sleeping bag. Still have my original frameless tube backpack. I always challenge people to name the manufacturer as a trivia question: Great Pacific Iron Works, the precursor to Chouinard.

Just remembered, in 1978 I moved to el lay to go to law school and sold my entire rack (hexes and wedges) and rope for $125 and a 4 finger bag of dope, no stems or seeds.
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2011 - 06:27pm PT
GG, my first two yrs, 69 and 70, it also was using the bowline on a coil, and we'd debate w/n you could survive more than an 8 minutes hang. Worst, the RCS would make us take real leader falls to learn the so-called dynamic belay.
And I don't know about you, but by 78, my rack was a mix-mash of different nuts, and years later only the stoppers survived, eg, remember the blue plastic Forest stoppers? so selling your rack and starting over was a good deal, even w/o the MJ.
D.Eubanks

climber
Apr 14, 2011 - 06:34pm PT
Hi Armando, I did the Dihedral Wall with one of the Zeek bros. They were climbers from the early 60's and climbed with wool knickers in cool wet whether and cotton corduroy knickers in dry warmer whether. And since that time as you know, synthetics have replaced wool.

Great pics and Matt's stylin' with that turtle neck longsleeve and those striped polyester bellbottoms.

Thanks Ron G.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Apr 14, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
What were the mid-80s fashions for hitch hiking across southern Utah with a bag of hardware?
this just in

climber
north fork
Apr 14, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
Pretty good thread. It's cool to think that in forty years the gear and clothing today will look funny.
F10

Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
Apr 14, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
In the Valley 72' or 73'


JT

richross

Trad climber
Apr 14, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
Gunks 1978.



Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 14, 2011 - 06:59pm PT
I don't have any vintage fashion shots at present, but ...

Can you tell me more about the route?
Maybe draw a line on the photo where it goes or describe it and I'll draw a line?
This could go in the guidebook.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Apr 14, 2011 - 07:05pm PT
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Apr 14, 2011 - 07:10pm PT
Doh. 1970's awesome stuff.
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Apr 14, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
Great shots! I was just in the local Sherwin-Williams paint store and they're selling painters pants for $16. I'm serious thinking about getting a pair for climbing. I used to love those things and have 70's pix of me in them and wearing a Hot Henry Barber cap while struggling on some Gunks 5.6. I should scan those images... or maybe not :) I did have a pair of knickers and high socks, too. Fortunately, no one ever recorded me wearing that fashion on Kodachrome or Polaroid.

Circa 1982 with the painters and a 'Fight Gravity' tee-shirt, that some skanky GF ran off with a few months later. I really liked that shirt.

thedogfather

Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
Apr 14, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Apr 14, 2011 - 09:51pm PT

Pics from '68-'71

Indian rock- goldline, bowline on a coil, brake bar, tied aiders, dulfersitz rap (off one 1/4" bolt)

Yosemite- wool knickers, frostline kit widbreaker, wool balaclava, wool sweater, fishnet undershirt

North palisade- homemade wind pants, home made pack, front-pointing, cotton parka over frostline down jacket, double gloves (cold!), wood ice axe, boot- axe belay
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Apr 14, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
'70s fashions were cool. The 80s were an embarrassment. But then that was the "ME" generation. Everyone joined the republicans and went off to business school as I recall.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 14, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
I think Pat Timson is wearing some pants he got off of a dead port-a-potty 'technician'.


And then there was the Swedish take on the painter's pant craze: Ulf Bjornberg accessorizes with knicker socks.
This could be excused on the grounds that it was an alpine rock route but it didn't seem to catch on.


I, on the other hand, took the runway look to the alpine faces of the Great
Northwest with my 'summer collection'.

SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 14, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
Gunkie--CCK, right????
Fun climb!!!!

Baskerville Terrace in '75


RMNP c'78????
local

Social climber
eldorado springs
Apr 14, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 14, 2011 - 11:35pm PT

dudes. 1979. the penultimate 70's outfit. all up on it, back in the muthafukkin' day. check out that gobi on the left hand. tape? please.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Apr 14, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
Bump for the real deal y'all!
Gorgeous George

Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
Apr 15, 2011 - 12:43am PT
Did I mention my down to the shoulders Afro? Everyone thought I was Carlos Santana's brother (who, by coincidence, was also named Jorge),
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 15, 2011 - 02:51am PT

okie

Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
Apr 15, 2011 - 08:37am PT
Wow, those are pristine! I had a pair of those.
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2011 - 10:36am PT
F10, that’s a great 70s pix. If it was Goldline rope, it’d be a 10. And the JT pix is classic as well, EBs, painters, swami, knotted slings, bandana, and a first generation homemade chalk bag. this one looks like it took two hands to open. it’s got it all.
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2011 - 10:42am PT
Clint, don’t think I could on this photo, but drop me a message, through ST, or at armandowyoming@gmail.com, and I’ll send you a description. Actually it was to get a better route description for Chris Mac that I re-connected with Vern and Paul, but they - read, their memories - were no help.
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
Clint, don’t think I could on this photo, but drop me a message, through ST, or at armandowyoming@gmail.com, and I’ll send you a description. Actually it was to get a better route description Chris Mac that I re-connected with Vern and Paul.
thought I'd posted this, but don't see it.
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
Apr 16, 2011 - 05:16am PT
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2011 - 11:09am PT
Amigos, great set of photos. I try (unsuccessfully) to maintain a bright line between the knickers-RR and the EB-painter pants era. Sorry, I try to categorize things. But Reilly's pix of the Swed shos that there was a transition: painter pants tucked into knicker socks!
And Jay, have you got a good collection of old RCS images? I've a great one of Joe Troy, who gave almost every Sunday for 2 decades to teach others to climb. Has there been a thread of RCS photos?
bvb, that image if fantastic. If there was a Gold metal in this thread, the the "ultimate 70s outfiit" would win (even if not knickers-RRs), despite all the other great ones and my own pixs. a little history please. And the green on the shoes? Was that original or stitched on? Reminds me of Sherry McVoy, who would add patches to her EB. I will add that pix separately.
Thanks again to all. ST needs a separate area for History.
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2011 - 11:11am PT
Sherry McVoy leading about 5 or 6 pitches pitches up Direct Northwest Face of Half Dome in the summer of 1979. Alan Nelson was next to me on the hanging belay. Sherry is special. An exceptionally good climber when any females in climbing were rare, Sherry would accessorize to maintain her femininity. Note the colorful extensions on sleeves and sometimes on legs, as dancer were to adopt later, and she was the first I saw to stitch vivid patches on sides of her EBs. But she could really climb. For years Sherry had a very bad back, and would ride to the Meadows laying on her back. At the crags, she’d watch us flail while flat on her back. Then she’d rise, tie-in, and send it.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 16, 2011 - 11:14am PT

Colourfully patched EBs (and trousers), Whillans harness, tube socks, the whole nine metres. 1976.
richross

Trad climber
Apr 16, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
Geoff Ohland on Amazon,Gunks circa 1979.

The stand up shorts and striped tank top look.


yedi

Trad climber
Stanwood,wa
Apr 16, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
[photoid=198344]
yedi

Trad climber
Stanwood,wa
Apr 16, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 16, 2011 - 01:46pm PT

2011, multiple retro?
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Apr 16, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
MisterE

Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
Apr 16, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
Mark Rodell

Trad climber
Bangkok
Apr 16, 2011 - 09:47pm PT
Armando, I met you in Kathmandu in 93 or 94. You were working there and you let me use your address so I could get some gear sent to me there. Wanted to say thanks again. Cheers
Hand Jammer

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 16, 2011 - 10:40pm PT

Painters Pants - Check!
Red knee pads - Check!
Socks - Check!
Leather covered EB's - Check!
Red Bandana - Check!
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Apr 16, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
Early High School days, probably about 1970. Pre-EBs. Red PAs. Roubidoux. I think this is Teflon Direct.

ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Apr 18, 2011 - 11:59am PT
bvb....hilarious!! I could almost hear Olivia Newton John singing "Let's Get Physical" in the background!
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
Largo,
are those PAs. Can't tell and to be honest, I don't remember that well which were the PAs. I had RRs and Kronherfers (?spelling?). For example, are these PA that Gary's wearing? I don't think so, but don't know what they were.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Apr 18, 2011 - 01:25pm PT
Yes those are PA's, but is he going to approach in those??....ouch!!
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2011 - 04:36pm PT
In defense, it was the slab approach, but today i wouldn't do it in anything as stiff as RR. I didn't claim we were smart, just smartly dressed.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 18, 2011 - 04:39pm PT
We used to hike in EBs all the time. Probably a useful exercise, in that it stretched them a bit.
Brock Wagstaff

Trad climber
Larkspur
Apr 18, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
Here's a contribution to Armando's bitd but "nattily dressed" thread...
storer

Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
Apr 18, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
Guide's Wall, Tetons. Butt belay, Swami, EB's, bandana. Don Black leading.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 18, 2011 - 07:13pm PT

If you look at the photos of me on the second page,
on Baskerville Terrace, you can see the vintage PA's I was
wearing at the time. . . Bright Red!!!!
steve shea

climber
Apr 18, 2011 - 07:59pm PT
RDs, brown/blk, stiff, Rene Desmaison. PAs, red/blk, not so stiff, Pierre Alain. EBs, blue/wht, da kine, Ellis Brigham.
Allen Hill

Social climber
CO.
Apr 18, 2011 - 09:36pm PT
steve shea

climber
Apr 19, 2011 - 09:44am PT
I stand corrected... Ellis Brigham was the importer distributor when they, EBs, first came into the states. Although, anyone could have, bruoght them in as we did. We brought in 40 pr to a climbing shop in Aspen in the early 70's
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2011 - 10:07am PT
Steve, thanks for info. I had no idea - especially at that time - of the availability of EBs. To think of all the face climbs I did on the Apron, base of El Cap, and Meadows that we did in RR, when we could have had EBs!
I'm clearly wrong to categorize RR and PAs with the last of knickers era through the early 70s, and the 70s and 80s with the introduction of EBs, swamis and harnesses, and painter pants.
armando
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2011 - 10:25am PT
Hankster, that one on the 80s was a great thread, good to look at it again, and the laught at the photo that John posted. It’s the photos here that are telling the stories, and I think that’s what we are enjoying. But one of us must start an 80s-era fashions photo-thread - up until lycra that is. I don’t want anyone to find a photo of me in my American Eagle lycra tights trying to look like a sport climber.
Armando
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Apr 19, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
Me in Boulder Canyon in 78 with Kletters, Robertson harness and hexes. Guy in background with PA's, Rugby shirt, and painter's pants, I think on The Dome.

I was with Jack Panek, it was one of those sunny cool days in the fall, and we were doin a "wide" day. We'd been up at Huston Crack on Cob Rock, and I think here we were getting ready to finish up by losing some flesh on Umph Slot.

Brock Wagstaff

Trad climber
Larkspur
Apr 19, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
Everything cycles... jeans are back! Or did they ever leave?
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Apr 19, 2011 - 06:50pm PT
First of all, I been wearing hoodies since 1963. What goes around comes around. I was the messiah.

Second, Army Surplus wool and Forrest tools cause knuckles to bleed. 1970's Central New York ice shout out stylin.


Third, Peruvian tuques, 215 skis, ensolite pads and gaitors make me feel kinda giddy.

Fourth, Pagagonia showed up in the early 80's with neon polychome color coordination and I was still in my Hot Henry wannalooklike scap and Vaurnet clown reflector sunglasses. My bud was a do-rag visionary.
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 19, 2011 - 08:29pm PT

Nuff said.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 19, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
As recently seen in a catalogue that landed on several hundred thousand doorsteps, but earlier seen here. (They spiffed up the photos with the usual digital trickery.)

They're kind of cute when they're young, eh?
chiindi

Big Wall climber
Lakeview, OR
Apr 20, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
Ben Davis Bib overalls, red or blue head scarf,(we were NOT Crips or Bloods) swami belt all haute couture at camp 4 behind the Chevron Station in 1973-74. You guys have way too many choices for climbing gear!

My gear: A 50mx11mm rope, 2 Jumars, a 50mx9mm haul line, 1 doz beaners, a few slings & runners, nuts, Lost Arrows, bongs, doz wired stoppers, a hammer, and a Chounard Great Pacific Iron Works catalog; still one of the best graphically illustrated treatises on climbing in the valley. Especially showing the climbers knots, placements, and clever rope and beaner rig ups.

I loved the Chounard dual reverse beaner break for secure rappels when lowering a lot of gear!

What tent? What helmet? ...Standing in slings and chain smoking all night was the climbers way of surviving a bivvy on the blank walls of El Cap.
You could smell the doobies burning on adjacent routes. Tangerine Trip, Dawn Wall, The Nose, Wall of EML, etc.
Lots of leader falls to see if you were really sticking it out there.

26 RURP runouts on Kat Pinnicle.

Sex on the camp 5 ledges with xxxxxxxx xxxxxxx. Not to many women climbers in the valley then, so I'll leave it to your imagination. It was a 2pm so the gawkers in the meadow had a good look. HEY!, IT WAS HER IDEA! Doing the pitch above naked was out of the question. Too much exposure!

Is it still around, the catalog that is?

My OJT was on the big walls.

Too much work, I'm retired!
michaelc

Trad climber
Sydney Oz
Apr 20, 2011 - 08:11pm PT
Purple 22" flared loons, raggy pullover, rugby shirt, Whillains harness and EB's - UK 1970's.......

Where can I get some Moacs?
Redwood

Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
Apr 21, 2011 - 12:36am PT
Robbins boots: I saw a British climber wearing Robbins boots lead Coonyard Pinnacle in 1969.
Redwood

Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
Apr 21, 2011 - 12:40am PT
Am I right in assuming the model in "That notorious hip belay" is rmuir himself?
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 09:53am PT
redwood, just the thought of Coonyard in RR makes my palm sweat. But also to try to recall when, and in what shoes I first did it. In 80s Coonyard, along with most of the run-out climbs on the Apron, were my favorites. But I don't think I had the cojones to do Coonyard before EBs.
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 10:29am PT
rmuir, IT'S YOU! I recall in 70s starting out on the first pitch of CS Concerto on Manure Pile Buttress, when Jim Bridwell and another climber dresses exactly as you are in that photo, huge shirt, bandana, etc, and 2 girls, tied-in and Jim climbed up the face next to the easy crack we were seizing. Don't mind us, Jim said, as they blew by us. didn't know Jim then, and we were probably uncool in RR and knickers.
So, rmuir was that you with Jim? Years later I climbed the face and discovered it was a cruise, and today Jim and I meet at OR twice a year and compare our status on the slippery slope toward geriatric infirmity.
armando
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 22, 2011 - 08:13pm PT
Hey ya, Armando.
I recall doing that face when there were slower parties stuck in the crack, but I don't think I did that with Jim. (Tell us more about the two ladies, though...)
I wore that Greek wedding shirt climbing exactly once. After all, it is pretty silly but the costume was screaming to be used during the Suicide Party we had back in '74. What an amazing impractical shirt for any activity other than standing around!
The long hair and headband though were exceeding popular back then, so the Bird's partner could really have been any one of quite a few denizens BITD. I do credit the Stonemasters for the bandana craze; we're pretty sure Graham and Accomazzo exported it to France fashion in '75—based on what we saw in Chamonix in '76.

Robs.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 23, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
Armando,

Thanks for the groovy thread!

I did a double take when I saw that picture of you with big glasses (I had a similar pair) and hirsute visage. I remember you!

When we got to know each other in about '89, in the early days of the Access Fund, I remember you said that you were in the valley in the 70's. I couldn't remember you then, but the picture has jogged my memory and now I know our first meeting wast about 15 years earlier.

Far out!... as we used to say.

Here's to old, and even older, friends!

Robs,
That shirt was ahead of its time. Ever see the Seinfeld "pirate shirt" episode?

melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
Apr 23, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
white painters pants summs it up for me ,,i"m shure there was a reason,,give me a minute,,,peace and love,,
Double D

climber
Apr 23, 2011 - 07:55pm PT
Fashions in the 70's?


Mark Wolford in Cirque of the Unclimbables

Augie Klein on Mt. Harrison Smith, Cirque of the Unclimbables

Scott Grafton Keyhole Pass Sierras

The Bird showing his feathers

Claude Fiddler practicing "squatting"

I've experienced "a colorful past."
D.Eubanks

climber
Apr 23, 2011 - 09:03pm PT
Nice pics Dave ....

A total 70's fashion fest ....

Brock Wagstaff

Trad climber
Larkspur
Apr 29, 2011 - 04:48pm PT
Wild guess... Mickeys Beach?
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Apr 29, 2011 - 06:57pm PT

John gotta Love Him Sherman

Lord of the Rings
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 29, 2011 - 10:15pm PT

Striped warmups, 1970's


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 30, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
A Groovy Thread about Groovy Threads, some Tucson variants.

Dave Baker and I gearing up for the 5.9 testpiece Cripple Creek on the Pharaoh. Army fatigues and hand-stitched leather-covered kneepads.

An early trip up the Rappel Rock classic Helm's Deep. Just connect the knobs...

I bought a pair of Masters made by the House of Hawkins on a trip to Boulder. They came from the Boulder Mountaineer and were every bit as good as they were obscure, WBITD!
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
Ricky,
In the last 20 years, we've worked, supp'ed, drank, climbed, fought, even cried together, but you didn't remember me from the 70s in yosemite! Those ancient photos weren't a jog to your memory, it was a full-on electro shock! (Course, I don't remember you, either.)
And latest batch of pixs remind me of the horrible Bell motorcycle helmets we'd drag out for some wall climbs. Mine was orange, pulled it out of a bag after 20 years of disuse, and the entire lining sifted through my fingers. Those are why us old-timers still don't wear helmets.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 1, 2011 - 11:03pm PT
Bell Toptex Malibu perhaps? Originally designed for surfing if I recall correctly.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 2, 2011 - 12:49am PT
Yes! I had a Bell Toptex, sold to me at REI in 1972.

Far better than nothing at all - I know at least one person whose life was saved by one.
ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
Steve, were they really designed for surfing? Never knew, I thought cycles. Certainly didn't breath. On NW Face, I started a pitch as rain ending, with helmet and jacket, and finished completely soaked and sprinting to strip.
And I'll bet you still have it, Anders.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 2, 2011 - 09:34pm PT
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
May 2, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
Dam, will you look at those lockes on Grossman.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
May 2, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 3, 2011 - 08:12pm PT
Too bad the locks weren't a lock...


Just wear a hat! LOL

Yup those Bell Toptex helmets didn't offer much protection or padding at all. Made the Joe Brown helmets look pretty good though! LOL
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
May 3, 2011 - 08:30pm PT
Halibut hat-now that is a dam fine piece of apparel. Long history that goes back to the days of Harry Bridges and the dockworker union and the strikebreakers and fights and deaths and arrests and all sorts of fun in the early days of organizing.
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
May 3, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
Oh yeah. Helmets. You mean like this one?

...only used the damned thing on alpine routes, never on clean stone. I put racing stripes on mine. I still have my Bell (Toptex, maybe?) in the shed; the foam inside has all turned to dust. (As will we all.)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 3, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
Nice SkidLid rmuir!
steve shea

climber
May 4, 2011 - 09:54am PT
rmuir was that a Chouinard Baltoro pack? My favorite alpine climbing pack of all time. I still have mine from the 70's. Nice photo.
Brock Wagstaff

Trad climber
Larkspur
May 4, 2011 - 04:51pm PT

Hey Robs... fun times, and at least your helmet didn't roll around on your head like the one I was wearing!
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
May 5, 2011 - 08:24pm PT
Fun times, indeed, Brock!

I count Brock as a wonderful friend and a great climbing partner whom I haven't climbed with since my first Europe trip in 1977. It's fantastic to post a photo from BITD, and see a photo of us (which I've never seen) after 34 years! ...love the Taco!

Brock and I were happy to have those skidlids on that route. Great start in the morning, fun climbing, and as we swing leads I made the point of following every pitch free. If we had more time on that limestone, I'm sure that we would have done that route totally free. Man, there were fixed pins everywhere! (From another site: "The first recorded free ascent is attributed to Jean Claude Droyer in 1978 but there are rumours it could have been done before this date.")

Great climbing throughout the morning. As we neared the summit, we started to encounter sleet and snow. By the time we made it to the base, it was in fog and only a slight drizzle. Fun times, indeed!

Thanks, Brock.

Steve, that is a Wilderness Experience Klettersack. Great little pack, saved my ass many times. I've got several, and I still have that old blue one.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 5, 2011 - 08:59pm PT
Brock's MSR Safety Dome is still my helmet of choice and the only design with shock absorption built into the suspension system. Clever little "T" wires invented by Maestro Larry Penberthy.
sibylle

Trad climber
On the road again!
May 19, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
Girl fashions in the 70s -- --
shorts, knee pads, wool hats
sibylle

Trad climber
On the road again!
May 19, 2011 - 11:25pm PT

More girl fashions --EBs, shorts and knee pads
sibylle

Trad climber
On the road again!
May 19, 2011 - 11:48pm PT

More girl fashions - My Dad took this one of me in shorts, EBs with socks, swami belt and rope tied on the back to stay out of the way
schwortz

Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
May 20, 2011 - 12:23am PT
any pictures of me from the 70s would be as an infant so these are not exactly from the 70s but...

a little homage at the last of our winter comp series
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
May 20, 2011 - 01:01am PT
Excellent fashion entertainment! Great shots everybody. The red swami ruled BITD...
Barcus

Social climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
May 20, 2011 - 02:20am PT
No pics, but I thought my "Fire cats" were the shizzle!

Marcus

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 20, 2011 - 02:27am PT
Hi Sibylle - nice photos! Are you coming to Squamish this summer?
sibylle

Trad climber
On the road again!
May 24, 2011 - 03:41pm PT
Mighty Hiker,
I hope to go to Squamish -- am trying to talk my son into joining me, but he has a titanium rod in his tibia, from knee to ankle, after a crash ski racing, and is reluctant to climb with said rod in his leg .....
steve shea

climber
May 25, 2011 - 09:45am PT
Sibylle, nice photos of Bev. We got to be good buds here in Jackson. We miss her.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 12, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
Bev Bump!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Oct 10, 2011 - 01:04am PT
first pitch, coonyard, GPA. Sibylla, is there a story behind this photo?!

hubcap

Big Wall climber
loveland co
Oct 28, 2011 - 10:57am PT
Many a climber wore Levis. 1st ascent End All Wall (Mesqualito)1973.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Oct 28, 2011 - 11:20am PT
1972 - First granite lead - East Slab, The Dome, Boulder Canyon 5.5

Levis - check
Royal Robbins - check
Flannel Shirt - check
Robertson Harness - check
150 foot Chouinard rope - check


Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle
Oct 28, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
At the Perry Mansfield climbing school in Steamboat Springs, Levis and Carhartt were the norm for casual alpine climbing. Clockwise, Jim Whiteman (yellow jacket) Hoxie Smith, John Rutherford, Pete Nichols atop Kagevah Peak (FA?), Wind Rivers, 1971. Dragonhead in background.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Oct 28, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
Those look like those cranium squeezing Joe Brown helmets, I had one of those.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 29, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
One had to look cool.



JT around 1973....
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 29, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
Barcus I hate to break it to you but Fires didn't show up till the 80s by which time the 70s were all but over. Get with the times man.

YIKES Ydpl8s, where is your pro? That's a honking run out. If you had fallen there we could have said a falling Scott gathers no moss man. Heeeheeeheee.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 29, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
Painter pants, EBs with (Shhhh) brandX and leather side panels by Muff Cheney, Willians harness, a big rack of cowbells and NO chalk.


Carharts & a dew rag.
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 29, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
Look at these......

These boys were the sh#t in 1973....



Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
Oct 29, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
Photos of 1970s-era clothing, here we go:

Wool knickers
Hangover, Lake Tahoe

Striped athletic pants were popular then
South Face of the Column

More striped athletic pants
Yosemite Valley

Pendelton wool shirts, Whilans sit harness, Joe Brown helmet
The Shield, Sandia Peak, New Mexico

Dig the white climbing pants
Pancake Flake

Knickers
West Ridge, Forbidden Peak

More knickers, Curver ice axe, Lowe pack, ensolite pad
Bugaboos

Pendleton wool shirts, Galibier Vercors boots, Chouinard bamboo ice axe (still have it), and an early internal frame pack
The Tetons, Wyoming

Pendleton wool shirts, bamboo ice axe, 60/40 parka (pre-Gortex), Dachstein wool mitts
Summit, Glacier Peak
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Oct 29, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
Phil, I'd only been climbing about a month when that picture was taken. I think I had a plastic Forrest moac placed at the top of the crack w/o a runner, biner clipped right into the wire loop, sketch.

Here's another couple of photos from that outing.


philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 29, 2011 - 01:52pm PT
I'd only been climbing about a month when that picture was taken. I think I had a plastic Forrest moac placed at the top of the crack w/o a runner, biner clipped right into the wire loop, sketch.

It is right amazin that we survived the learning curve of the early years.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 29, 2011 - 02:55pm PT
Here is a shot of Survival in his 70s garb.


Oh wait that was the 60s.
Sorry carry on. hehehe
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Oct 29, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
Harris Tweed Wool Knickers -- Check
Thrift Store Cotton Sweater -- Check
Improvised Ditty Bag Chalkbag -- Check
Suspenders -- What, are you kidding?

JTree, Intersection Boulder, 1974

philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 29, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
HANK!! Get off yer ass.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Oct 29, 2011 - 07:35pm PT



dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Oct 29, 2011 - 11:06pm PT
Wow, good stuff. Back to the scanner.


OK, had one ready.

Dachstein hat and gloves, cord knickers,Piolet and Alpine Hammer...



2" swamie, hip belay(trust me) , Tahquitz, 1975, Edelrid 11mm.

Oh yeah, check it out....dachstein sweater as well. We both had one.

Pacific Iron Works holster....P I W rigid crampons. Mint.

Galibier Super Guides.

Probably Eiger or REI carabiners. No SMC.s.
bit'er ol' guy

climber
the past
Oct 30, 2011 - 12:15am PT
Now that's "trad" man,, fuktejuwasgodanmdfrikin'RAd......wait!!!!!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 30, 2011 - 12:16am PT
Is jumping off donkeys some sort of entry level base jumping?
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 30, 2011 - 12:35am PT
dee ee, now that's the stuff! Good post up.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 30, 2011 - 05:54pm PT
OK let's see here.
Wild Lycra and Asolo onsights in the Black.
Nope, the late 80s. Last climb before the prosthetic.

Wild Hawaiian shirt & hat. Asolo Onsights and a big run out on hard face.
Nope that was still the mid 80s before the prosthetics.

Whillians Harness, no cams, no chalk bag, Vasque ascenders Bike shorts and a bike hat. Getting closer. But this was a FA in the Black in the early 80s.
Crap this fashion stuff is hard.

OKAY now. No cams. Chouinard Super Rope. Summit of something with Bob Dickerson. Gotta be 1976.

Bingo a montage from 1975. Corduroys, Rugby shirt and a Dew rag. A new fangled Forrest Harness, Titons and EBs. Fresh out of Prancerland. Yeah Baby!


Bonus points to who ever can name the routes pictured.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 30, 2011 - 08:04pm PT
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Oct 30, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
OK! Idaho being the sticks: we were not cutting edge on climbing fashions in the 70's.

These are the most "fashion forward" shots I can find from my 1970's adventures.



philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 31, 2011 - 01:02am PT
Nice stuff Fritz.
Gotta love the fish net.

Here's another
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Oct 31, 2011 - 11:48am PT
Great pics Phil! Is that pic with Bob Dickerson in the Elks somewhere?

That combination of 4 pictures almost looks a little like Aqua Dog, or maybe something on the 2nd Buttress?

Bouldering 1973 RR's and army pants

philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 31, 2011 - 11:52am PT
AquaDog it is.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Oct 31, 2011 - 11:56am PT
Aquadog, that is one slippery little 5.9 pitch, but a great perch to "relax" at when you top out.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Nov 6, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
Hey Ydpl8s nice pic. Who took it John Ake?
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Nov 7, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
Not sure Phil, but probably Jon or Bob D., or Chuck Tolton.
richross

Trad climber
Jan 10, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
Bump

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 10, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
Scottish chic...

Commie-pinko chic (with two dirtbags)
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 2, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
A bump for all you fashion prancers out there!

1979/80? The Dome - Bouler Canyon - I think getting ready to do The Owl (yeah, even in 1980 I still liked climbing in my gray suede shoes!)

Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Aug 2, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
I'd usually wear gym shorts and no shirt (or sunscreen) on walls, hauling along my school clothes for bivouacs. I climbed in the Valley all summer, even in August and hardly ever even had to take along a sleeping bag on big routes. Just a pad, a joint or three of rag weed, a coat and I called it good. I remember being up there somewhere and looking down at the lights at night and wondering what life was all about and it occurred to me that it couldn't be much different than what I was doing right then and there.

This has nothing to do with style . . .

JL
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Aug 3, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
Short shorts...
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 25, 2012 - 02:43am PT
This is EBMCR. Started at 1:30 pm. Jim's first long climb, he jumared and used the camera to good effect as a third man.
Cowboy's NPS shirt and his tailored, custom knickers and sporting brand new EEBs. My bargain basement blue and red BBs and baggy jeans.
We spent the night below Kat Walk on purpose to set up some catalog shots using a synthetic pied d'elephante made by TNF.


And what Larry thought of the idea.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 25, 2012 - 02:43am PT
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 25, 2012 - 03:41am PT
This is above the pedestal. It's around three in the afternoon. Making good time, cruising. Rounded holds above the Pedestal leading to a wide crack...
We encountered a party on the rim attempting and failing to establish a Tyrolean to the party on the LA tip. We lost a considerable amount of daylight helping these n00bs. They gave us one old battery after it got dark to replace ours, which had quit after a time. We felt our way back to Camp 4 mostly in the dark. Again!

Some things never go out of fashion.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 25, 2012 - 03:47am PT

In the long ago, when XC skis would be wood not glass or plastic,
the Toppen Turlett was a staple in TNF stores in the Bay Area as a rental ski. They sold a slightly stiffer version made from light-colored wood, left un-painted. You could fly over flats with the wind behind you and the Mtn. Parka spread out like a sail.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Aug 25, 2012 - 09:07am PT
blast from the past..
j tree 1982..

the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Aug 25, 2012 - 09:09am PT
Largo,
I have your short shorts and raise you the lighting...


justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Aug 25, 2012 - 09:42am PT
This thread is priceless.

Keep it goin guys.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Aug 25, 2012 - 10:58am PT
Here's a shot of Dave Bohn and me headed up to the Sunnyside area. I think we were trying to climb Lazy Bum, Bummer and the Jamcrack. I still have that GPIW rugby shirt but the damn thing has shrunk or something.
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
Aug 25, 2012 - 11:15am PT
Nice photo Malcolm, brings back the memories. This is what I used to wear when we climbed together (1976) - chamois shirt, painter's pants, Whillan's harness, EBs, and a rack of wedges and hexes.

richross

Trad climber
Aug 25, 2012 - 11:24am PT
Foops and True Grip, 1976.


can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Aug 25, 2012 - 11:39am PT
Woolrich knickers, Dachstein mitts, 2" swami, Chounaird rigids, Forrest axe on my first ice climb.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 26, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
The shoes are an esoteric brand named BBs, made, I think by Galibier. Only pair that I ever saw. I began with RRs, made the choice to go with a friction boot, the brown leather RDs, which HURTED MY FEET! But I could go "anywhere" with them, as opposed to the RRs. Then I got these BBs and could do aid in them (verrry stiff shank), as is shown in the photo.

EBs were the best, however. We all know that.

Jim's got the white flat hat. All ya needed to be cool, ya n00bs. He is somewhere on the Flakes on the Model California Rock.

I never got a chance to do aid climbing in my bowling shoes, but then I never had the oppo to do a bolt route on a bowling alley...Smokin' good sh#t today...
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Aug 26, 2012 - 07:51pm PT
Ready for Double Cross.

Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Aug 26, 2012 - 08:02pm PT

TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Aug 26, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
I think I still have one that is in semi usable shape.

I wish they were still made.

Kept your back semi dry with a pack on, Ventilate and they were an evaporative cooler, throw a layer over them and instant warmth.

martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Aug 26, 2012 - 09:50pm PT


tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Aug 26, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
Jud in foreground, me in the back My first trip up Pinnacle gully 1982 Loaner AT boots and Foot fangs. I bought used Kolflachs doubble mountainering boots and SMC crampons shortly after this trip.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Aug 26, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
My search for fisherman's mesh top didn't show up anything, but fishnet mesh underwear is still being made! See you in the "wild" country!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 26, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
Great shots Marty.

I need to break out my scanner...
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Aug 26, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
Here's some guy from the 70s I still think was really high stylin' it.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Feb 9, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
Bump for 70s fashions of the day.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 9, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
fishnet underware tops.... now that is 1970s for sure...
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Feb 9, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
Holy cow! I had a of of those fishnet wool shirts. Somehow I could never actually bring myself to wear it and somehow I'm much, much better off for it.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Feb 10, 2013 - 08:32am PT
Summit of Glacier Peak back in the mid 1970s, when I was about 15 years old
My first "real" summit


Climbing on the Shield outside of Albuquerque in the 1970s
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 10, 2013 - 11:57am PT
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 10, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 11, 2013 - 08:49pm PT

Anybody care to guess who, where and when?
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Feb 11, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
Philo,
Don't know who. Where is Falling Ross, Granite Mountain, Prescott, Arizona. When is late 70s?
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 11, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
good call!


Nick

climber
portland, Oregon
Feb 11, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
75'
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 11, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
This is all I got
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 11, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
Mark Force, excellent call. The who is me. Working on my first beard.
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Feb 11, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
Weeping Wall EB's and swami


Joshua Tree

ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Nice Stich plate and harness Phil! Looks like you're tied in with a "figure 9" :-)
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 12, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
Well this is a swell thread, I'll play



Short shorts and stuff sack. Shoes? You guys had shoes? The date of Ann's incised graffiti in the soft La Jolla sandstone dates this to 78


Everyone's got a painters pants shot, here's mine of the young supplicant

Do you think my van clashes with my outfit?

If the Stonemasters get credit for the bandana thing, it was sure rampant by 1977.

The Prince Of Prone, doing what he does best. Levis, cable knit sweater, converse, nicely accessorized with one of those green Chouinard ropes everyone had

Part of the crew, sporting most of the trendy fashion memes of the day


RDB

Social climber
wa
Feb 12, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
Looking down @ John in 1972
1973
1975
Gwain in 1978
EBs and a swami in 1979
David Hammerbeck

Mountain climber
Fremont, CA
Jun 3, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
Wish I had pics, but I remember climbing at Taqhuitz and in Yosemite '74 - '77 w/ RRs, Chouinard cord shorts and the ubiquitous yellow and gold rugdy shirt, or a solid blue Chouinard rugdy shirt - painter's pants for long routes and nasty cracks. Chouinard Bullet pack, ... at least I think that's what it was called. All my photos in storage in the US - in Kathmandu...
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jun 3, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
Killer thread!!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 7, 2018 - 12:08pm PT
1970s Climbing Fashions!

1977, fall. Joshua Tree, after doing my first 5.10: Top 40 to Middle Toilet.
Since downgraded to 5.9! WTF.

Chouinard Guide sweater, Millet rucksack, REI glacier glasses, wool knickers, red PAs.
If you look close, you can see someone photoshopped earrings into this picture. haha.


............................................................

1982, springtime do-over. Then with Ford modeling agency! (Total bullsh#t.)
Dressed in this same get-up when I guided two Navy SEALs up Astroman, later that year.

The boat neck tee had blue stripes and the wide wale cords were purple. Forest green pile jacket by Moonstone, IIRC.


Porsche Targa wasn't mine, but I did get paid 600 bucks to lead an all free, no-falls ascent!

Those dudes were blown:
"Roy, we've killed guys with our bare hands, jumped out of low-flying airplanes …
But this is the most radical thing we've done, hands down, and we are just on jumars!"

 I even got them stoned on pot for their first-ever big wall bivouac, on overnight ledge. Ha ha.
WBraun

climber
Dec 7, 2018 - 12:42pm PT
I even got them stoned on pot for their first-ever big wall bivouac, on overnight ledge. Ha ha.

Never happened as,

Navy Seals are pure as the finest spring water found in Flint Michigan .....
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 7, 2018 - 12:59pm PT
Yates took this instamatically.Robbins belay seat on McAllister, the filmographer.

Not very many shots of the Flames actually doing any climbing. Buncha posers.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 7, 2018 - 01:19pm PT
Tar, thought you were gonna tell us how you took that striped shirt off of a drunk Russian sailer in Yalta! C’mon, we wanna hear it!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 7, 2018 - 01:53pm PT
^^^
Get down from there right now, Jeff!
You'll poke your eye out, Sailor!!!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 7, 2018 - 02:02pm PT
Check out Jeff Mathis with his Long Dong! (LD was a super long lost arrow, BTW)
What did people do with those, BITD? World-class booger retrieval, methinks.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 7, 2018 - 02:25pm PT

Shots cribbed from slide show at Bird's memorial.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 7, 2018 - 02:48pm PT
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 7, 2018 - 03:00pm PT
1976, Roy Boy, Goat Rocks, during a circumnavigation of Mount Adams, Great Pac Northwest!
Woolrich shirt & winter weight knickers. Full-length bi-color gaiters, REI glacier glasses, Galibier Super Guides, 75 cm wood shafted ice ax. (I think firemen use those axes now?)


.....................................................

I've had my ear to the tracks. I've taken a look around. 70s psychedelia is making a comeback in the garment industry, especially with the lady crushers.
(That's ladies who crush, BTW. Not the chick magnets they flock to.)

Example of Nouveau 70s Chic:
Photo source: https://www.instagram.com/p/BpNEl8BFKJc/
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Dec 7, 2018 - 03:02pm PT

That's Jimmy Newberry and our Nick Danger (Bob D.) with John Pearson and Scotty Gilbert
Quote Here

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 7, 2018 - 04:48pm PT
PNW chic:
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 7, 2018 - 05:01pm PT
Knee patches rule ok. Dick on the bus.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 7, 2018 - 06:12pm PT
Not even kidding about the 70s psychedelia retro hitting the streets lately.
The hip and sassy slaydies are all about it.

As for the guys, probably more about Halloween costume, but hey:

Photo source: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bm3stR2jutB/


Photo source: https://www.instagram.com/p/BgKK4crnqGV/
WBraun

climber
Dec 7, 2018 - 06:40pm PT
LOL, the first one with the kids is an absolute classic .....
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 7, 2018 - 07:37pm PT
Agreed!!!
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Dec 9, 2018 - 07:47pm PT

If you were rock climbing in the seventies your gear was hexes and stoppers. The Bong early 70’s
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Dec 10, 2018 - 12:43pm PT
^^^^^^

And...it appears Blue Suede Shoes! (rr's)
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Dec 10, 2018 - 05:04pm PT

Dec 10, 2018 - 12:43pm PT
^^^^^^

And...it appears Blue Suede Shoes! (rr's)



You are correct
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Dec 10, 2018 - 05:55pm PT
Ha, fun thread.....here’s a few, dang we were young!

duffer

Trad climber
Sonora, CA
Dec 11, 2018 - 07:36am PT
[photo[photoid=546059]id=546058]
duffer

Trad climber
Sonora, CA
Dec 11, 2018 - 07:38am PT
duffer

Trad climber
Sonora, CA
Dec 11, 2018 - 07:39am PT
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 11, 2018 - 08:50am PT
Of course Peggy Lou... this shot is always worth reposting!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 11, 2018 - 09:30am PT
Dave Harden,

Thanks for that photo of Doug Nidever. It's the earliest vintage image I've seen of the man.
I'll forward that on to him!

...............................

Yeah, throwpie: Peggy Lou!
I was about to post that iconic image of yours myself. Glad you got around to it!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 11, 2018 - 09:45am PT
Herr Nidever seems to be sporting a Dachstein sweater,Roy.

Great page-full of memories here.

This charming young gal, Linda Halvorsen, ran with our esteemed pal Mathis.
XYZ

Trad climber
Dec 11, 2018 - 10:04am PT
duffer

Trad climber
Sonora, CA
Dec 11, 2018 - 10:06am PT
Yeah, Tarbuster, I figured that photo of Doug in the Dachstein sweater and canvas pants would stir up some comments.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 11, 2018 - 10:09am PT
Yeah, Duffer, he's likely thinking while wearing that new pair of EBs, "So this is how God feels when He climbs. HO-Man!"
duffer

Trad climber
Sonora, CA
Dec 11, 2018 - 10:12am PT
duffer

Trad climber
Sonora, CA
Dec 11, 2018 - 10:22am PT
duffer

Trad climber
Sonora, CA
Dec 11, 2018 - 10:25am PT
rbolton

Social climber
The home.
Dec 11, 2018 - 10:45am PT
Fun thread indeed. All shot between 73 and 75.




rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Dec 11, 2018 - 11:53am PT
How could this thread not be complete without a classic master of the runway?


At the Buttermilks with dress whites:

rbolton

Social climber
The home.
Dec 11, 2018 - 12:00pm PT
"He's...too sexy for that Jacket...too sexy for that jacket..."
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Dec 11, 2018 - 12:44pm PT
Hey rbolton, in your third pic above, is he sportin RD's?

Or are they sewed on leather uppers on EB's?
rbolton

Social climber
The home.
Dec 11, 2018 - 01:21pm PT
Thats me and those are RDs, my first pair of rock shoes.
throwpie

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 11, 2018 - 01:35pm PT
If you didn’t put leather uppers on EBs, they lasted about a week.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 11, 2018 - 01:36pm PT
70’s Ben Nevis chic:
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Dec 11, 2018 - 01:38pm PT

rbolton

Social climber
The home.
Dec 11, 2018 - 01:38pm PT
Aye, a slab and a balmy summer day to boot.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Dec 11, 2018 - 01:40pm PT
duffer

Duffer is on "The Flu" there. :)
splitter

Trad climber
Somewhere South Of Heaven
Dec 11, 2018 - 01:55pm PT
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 11, 2018 - 06:58pm PT
It's not only fashion, it's gear, too. But first the fashion. Most of these are '69-'71. All are my photos, but for the one of Werner.


Ben Borsen

Then the gear: a single wrapped swami belt, a rack the size of a toothpick on Sacherer Cracker, EBs. Peter Haan

Kim Schmitz, Marty and Peter Haan. Camp 4 '71

Luke Freeman '71

Werner at the top of the Nose after he and Luke were the youngest team to climb it at the time. *! NOT MY PHOTO!**



Matt Pollock on North Dome, '69. Swami belt, bandana headband and Cortinas on a climb that kicks butts to this day.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 11, 2018 - 07:03pm PT
Werner and Luke were naturals, both skinny as hell, and ENERGIZED!

Fine portrait of Luke.
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 11, 2018 - 07:20pm PT
WOW! OH WOW!

That photo of a young Werner is simply mind-blowing to me.

I always thought he stepped off a flying saucer looking like this, & has only aged slightly since.

ArmandoWyo

climber
Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2018 - 11:13am PT
Can't believe that this thread i posted in 2011 is alive and well. Some credit must go to the classic last power of knickers, Blue boots and PA. my wife says i still haven't learned how to dress.
ron gomez

Trad climber
Dec 13, 2018 - 01:43pm PT
Peace
Happy Cowboy

Social climber
Boz MT
Dec 13, 2018 - 01:57pm PT
Little gem of a thread Armando. It's hard to follow a young Werner ^^^

I noticed a friend Sherry McVoy shown on the direct NW and her unique fashon, always present camera slung over her back. I've this shot from way back
she knew how to dress-down...same gruby eb's and climbed very well. I'd met Sherry and John Storer in Tetons afew years prior when we climbed Guides Wall and she shot photos one of which storer posted way^^^. Bump my print
beyond what mentioned earlier I notice the Craghopper knickers and 1st gen Shoenards I'm leading in.


finally the Foamback, surprised I'm the first to mention, and more than I spent time damp in a downpour. Here's one of the better

noticed Augie Klien in one a ways back.


Happy Cowboy

Social climber
Boz MT
Dec 14, 2018 - 04:20am PT
Moose, please fill me in on the sweater you’re wearing?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 14, 2018 - 06:02am PT
I ain't fallin' for the old staple in the neck trick, Moosie. But the sweater is totally YOU, ya hairy bugger!
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Dec 31, 2018 - 08:01pm PT

Lower Cathedral Spire, mid 70’s
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 31, 2018 - 08:23pm PT
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 1, 2019 - 09:12am PT
Patagonia 1976....Americans and Kiwis, men and women, all sporting thie finest 70’s climbing attire.
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