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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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OK Bat.... its time to fess up on the location of this obscure LA local spot....
Help a brother out, OK?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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PM sent Guy
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Family visiting this wknd Rick, (Cheryl's
brother & S.O.)
but yes, other areas would be great to
check out!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Perhaps monday or tuesday then Bob? The route diagonals up from right at bottom to left on top. Four pitches. Begins left of center of photo on obvious ramp up vertical and monolithic section of wall. A couple of those larger boulders at the crags base are as large as a four story office building.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Definitely, just let me know the specifics
and I'll be there.
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thebravecowboy
climber
Lost Park
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that super-sucks Tad-man! happy it was autos and not people hurt!
and yeah, seriously, I am sorry for the taking that cancer does.
Cpt. Anderson, well, you know the joke about rock-masons and what they'll lay? (anything, the heavier the better)
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thebravecowboy
climber
Lost Park
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The keystone is the locker, the one that holds it all together. What were you talking about? ;-)
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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When it rains it pours Tad. Keep a careful eye out for your family and self until these troubles pass.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Woke up to a couple inches of snow here at paiute creek canyon this am. Hows it look your way Ron and Jrig. Tad, the weather report is showing cold temps and good possibility of precip during your previously planned vacation window. You probably wouldn't have missed much even if fate hadn't put the kabash to your plans. Bob we might have to put our next trip off till thursday and even then look for sunny exposures.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2015 - 10:00am PT
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There's a dusting in the higher elevations, but nothing noteworthy.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Slight dusting of snow here too!
I'm sure good weather will return
as will we!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Well I had a partner flake on me at the last moment today. In the mood for some climbing, and with everything already in the vehicle, I resolved to go it alone. After doing some improvements that enhance the environment for campers at the Sphinx parking/camping area, I wandered off to the crags top. Have had a number of new routes in mind but settled for a direct finish to our original Northwest Buttress route. I'm usually not one for preinspection or toproping, but what the hell I told myself as I rapped the prow of the upper buttess. This finish is about 5.8 and much preferable to our original finish since its full 125' is honest climbing rather than the degeneration to fourth class after 50' on the line to the left. High, high quality face climbing after the initial flake/crack which sucks in bomber small cams and wired stoppers. Higher above the cam up under the overlap might be a good place for a single bolt to keep it consistent with the well protected nature of the rest of the route.
Anyway, im up for organizing a group Camp/climb trip out there after my return from AK on the 19th. All you regulars are invited and I might just pm a few denizens of this forum I've wanted to meet or remeet for new routing adventure on some of the best rock and settings around.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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While you're working that great wall, Ron, ask Steve if he wants to go also. You guys bring the marshmellows and I'll buy the beer.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2015 - 07:41pm PT
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shh...
the rock is whispering...
can you hear it?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Apr 19, 2015 - 12:45am PT
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What is the horseshoe looking thing in the top right of the picture with your wife in it?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 19, 2015 - 07:20am PT
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My Chimney, Is cleaned,where it needs to be this is now the hot new climbing area in NJ! the Blue Gus Chimney named for Gus Neff, Tye Neff's son from Los gatos Ca. (?I have lost touch)and his suffering while belaying in the cold.
The right side of the chimney is Photo opportunity wall and can be climbed at three well protected grades depending on the obstacles choosen, the most direct(.11c/d) finishes straight out over the overhangs at the top, with a big throw to a square cut hold just below the final roof.
This move can be avoided by moving right to the skyline edge and back left and up.
Four very diverse lines travel up the left side of the Blue Gus Chimney, and take a joint start for gear and then fan out the easy way is 5.8 yet it mirrors the 5.11c! Two other lines weave up and go at the mid 5.10 range.
There are about seven distinct yet tangled lines and when the Ice sets up the thing is an Ice Box!
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Apr 19, 2015 - 01:56pm PT
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Rick and Ron - I'm back. Sorry I disappeared on you. I went to England for work, got sick from that trip, had to have a key instrument (the HSI) rebuilt, blah, blah.
However the plane is back in the air and I am ready if you are. Weekdays are better than weekends (but I'm open) and early morning is best for smooth air. I'm up for air photos of the place you are currently working (if, perhaps, you are thinking of a guide) or reconnaissance of other areas.
I think there was someone else that wanted to go that had a bunch of camera equipment?
 Ney
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Apr 19, 2015 - 04:34pm PT
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 19, 2015 - 06:36pm PT
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Well another classic moderate climbed in the wilds of Nevada. Here's JRig leading the first pitch of The Ramp, 190' 5.7. It would have been a little run out but I convinced him to place a bolt to keep it in character with all the well protected moderates we are establishing.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Apr 19, 2015 - 07:10pm PT
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One and the same Ron. You cant tell from the pic but the monolithic wall this ramp steeply ascends is dead vertical to slightly overhanging. A plethora of holds renders the ramp moderate.
About 70 in the sun at this crag today Tad, buy of course its north facing aspect didn't recieve any sunlight during our time there. We wore light jackets. I think the high in Reno was in the mid 70's.
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