New route at Sugarloaf

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 71 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
NoRushNoMore

climber
Dec 8, 2006 - 06:44am PT
Lesbien Love is a one fine line, very enjoyable climbing.
Keep doing what you doing and don't listen to aid crowd here, they are missing the point anyway
coiler

Trad climber
yosemite
Dec 8, 2006 - 11:49am PT
"S" climbing has no place in proud trad bastions like Lover's leap, Phantom spires, and Sugarloaf. Up until Aiden & the ASCA club showed up on the scene there, you had to man up for the climbing. With the advent of the power drill the 3/8" bolts are showing up faster than they can be chopped! Too bad all the old classic lines are dissapearing so that climbing can become "Safe" for the masses!
So, Aiden, why do you post your FAs here? I've put up plenty of routes in those places, they're in the guidebooks as unknown FA. Some of them have grown bolts since the FA, is that you? I don't need to spray about my FAs, I just love to climb and have been doing so since '84. I've gotten known throughout the climbing world brcause of my love for the game... not my FA spray. Many of my routes have been claimed by others... but they know the truth, and so do you.
I was taught to bolt from Tucker Tech and Walt Shipley. They taught me to climb from the ground up, sometimes using hooks with a hand drill. I had a power drill in Humboldt but I sold it when I left there (Petch is still sore I didn't sell it to him) and I've rap bolted a few routes, but never at a trad area. Bolting over another mans route is one of the high crimes of climbing, and you know you're guilty, so why don't you put your drill away, and just go climbing on the weekends "for the hell of it" just like everyone else. You might just learn what trad means. You shouldn't need recognition for your feats. If you've noticed, you're the only guy in Tahoe bolting over the runouts (and spraying about your "proud acomplishments). Don't look out at everyone else and get mad... look within and see the truth.
For the love of the game- Coiler
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Dec 8, 2006 - 03:16pm PT
FAing on hooks is better style than rap bolted.

But drilling from a stance is better style than drilling from hooks.

Why should you not then leave a climb alone that you require hooks for, until someone can do it from a stance?
coiler

Trad climber
yosemite
Dec 8, 2006 - 03:29pm PT
Because hooking is still on lead. I've taken some wingers drilling on hooks. It's still heads up... and it's still considered trad. anything else I can explain to the uneducated?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Dec 8, 2006 - 03:52pm PT
actually yes. is artic breeze a retro of arrowroot?

if so, does it follow the same line throughout?
Apocalypsenow

Trad climber
Cali
Dec 8, 2006 - 08:48pm PT
Oh Adian, so pathetic. As I have told you BEFORE (in the Leap parking lot) "I dare you to say that to Chalky's face." and again...you won't.
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

climber
Calyfucinphornya
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2006 - 12:17am PT
Today I spent 45 minutes taking care of a 12 year old who was just placed on the heart transplant list. Some Christmas present!
This silly banter is all fun an all, and I really love getting out, but we all need to keep a little perspective.
Climb it, diss it, whatever. It's there and I'm done.
Bye for now
A
Oddchick? Wingnut? Strangechick? Freakazoid?

Trad climber
Pollack Pines
Dec 9, 2006 - 02:21am PT
Sorry to break this to you Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?, but my partner Lorraine and I did the first ascent of the route you describe several years back. We protected the moves from the adjacent route which resulted in sporty (to say the least) lead on her part.

Just cuz you have a four-part nickname (and maybe a penis), does not mean you own the crag. If you can't do the route on existing pro, maybe you should stay in the gym.

Think about it Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?.....Thnk about it.
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

climber
Calyfucinphornya
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2006 - 02:50pm PT
What a coincidence!
I did the very same thing to the now Bacher Yerian from the adjacent Shipoopi! Now that was sporty. I feel a sort of odd kinship toward you now.
Warmly,
Man with penis
~* ~* ~*
Oddchick? Wingnut? Strangechick? Freakazoid?

Trad climber
Pollack Pines
Dec 9, 2006 - 09:45pm PT
I remember that day well Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?. I was the women that had sex with you in the bushes; do you recall?
ablegabel

Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
Dec 10, 2006 - 10:45am PT
Well, well, highway 50's own little rap bolter is back spraying again about his latest over rehearsed, glorified top rope.
Oddchick? Wingnut? Strangechick? Freakazoid?

Trad climber
Pollack Pines
Dec 10, 2006 - 01:33pm PT
There's no need to for you be a jerk Ablegabel, and like the other vultures (on this thread) go after poor Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?.

At least Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma? (though at times a rap bolter) is also a kiss-ass trad leader, whom (I've witnessed) onsighting many hard and scarey routes through the years. Far, the f*#k more than you and the other closet gay boys that hang out at the Leap parking lot and on this list.


Love,

Hazel

Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Dec 10, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
"What a coincidence! I did the very same thing to the now Bacher Yerian from the adjacent Shipoopi! Now that was sporty."

Yeah, I tried that too, but that Bachar Yerian was TOO scary! Some negligent jerk must have "put up" that route, because THERE WERE ALMOST NO BOLTS!!


So coincidentally a few weeks ago me and a buddy bolted Bachar Yerian. Safe for the sport/gym crowd now - because your safety is our business.

(The photo below shows you how Bachar Yerian is not really as steep as it looks in the photos - rather low angle, really):

All seriousness aside, what is this thread about again? And which bush do I go to at base of Medlicot to have sex?
johnr9q

Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
Dec 10, 2006 - 02:12pm PT
I don't know who Coiler, Hardman Knott, Apocalypsenow, Chalky Fingers etc are but I'd put my old fart, friend Aiden (hell, he's almost as old as I am) up against the best of you on a scarry trad route because I suspect the majority of you types have gained the majority of your "climbing experience" from forums like this rather than actually climbing. I've been slandered, too many times when posting to forums, only to discover that the slanderer was only a "Forum Climber". Hey, I just came up with a new climbing term.
Rags

Trad climber
Sierra foothills, CA
Dec 10, 2006 - 02:58pm PT
Holy crap, look who just crawled out of the woodwork to post.

JR, while I respect you, I think your opinion may be skewed after hanging around with Cotrell, all those years, while he rap bolted Cal Dome.
No respect for tradition.

Be that as it may, I suppose those with drills and ropes will continue to bolt until every climbable face on the planet is grid
bolted. Gee, think of all the routes......

P.S. Forum education can be useful, when applied.

edit: This post was not to offend, merely to incite.
Guess it worked. Sent you an email JR.
LoversleapTad

Trad climber
Lovers Leap
Dec 10, 2006 - 03:45pm PT
Hey, As a reformed slanderer, I just wanna say that I'm sick and tired of locals slandering certain "older" folks on their supposed rap-bolting. Turns out that these same "rap-bolters" (ie,Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?) have done some of the narliest trad least around.

Have any of you slanderers ever done Confeteracy of Dunces at the Leap? Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma? has and it is stout!

Have any of you parking lot hanger oners lead Queen Bee 5.11 d x? Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma? has and flashed it on marginal pro. I know cuz I watched and nearly sh#t my britches.

How about the rarely lead Pink Bikini next to the Moratorium in the Valley? I saw Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma? lead this super thin crack (12 c R) on micro-nuts. Though he onsighted the route, he never posted it on Supertopo, or mentioned it to anyone in the parking lot.

My point is that many of us both lead trad stuff and also clip (and sometimes place from above) bolts. Give the guy a break, and please do let me know how to find the chick in the bushes too.

Tad
coiler

Trad climber
yosemite
Dec 10, 2006 - 04:08pm PT
First of all, let me say that "lovers' leap Tad" is not the real lovers' leap Tad. The real guy is a balls out trad climber who's lived at the leap for many eons! I know this because he has lived there with me! We have both watched as many of the scary leads of the leap that we have both done dissapear in the name of "safe" climbing. Aiden has repeatedly embarrased himself by making routes established in the 1970's turn into just another sport route.
The real Lovers' leap Tad would never say those things that the imposter Tad have said. I know this because I've climbed, partied, lived with the guy. I'll tell you this, he's done many of the "routes" that Aiden has "established" long before they had a bolt every 4 feet on them, Back when they were still proud "Trad" routes!
I cannot believe that Aiden continues to think of himslef as a "pioneer" of Tahoe climbing. Like I said, he's a legend in his own mind! If he had Half a sack he should come forward in this forum and explain why routes from 1970 would need more bolts than they have had for many decades? Also why would these routes need new names and first ascentionists? I guess it looks good on paper!

awaiting a response... Coiler!
Oddchick? Wingnut? Strangechick? Freakazoid?

Trad climber
Pollack Pines
Dec 10, 2006 - 04:36pm PT
Second of all, I know "Yosemite Coiler" and you are not him; are you an imposter!!!

The Coiler I know is a nice fellow, not a jerk. I recommend you go back to the gym, stick with plastic and teenagers and leave us outdoor cragsters alone and free from your voracious slander.

Ethyll Hazeltone

LoversleapTad

Trad climber
Lovers Leap
Dec 10, 2006 - 06:19pm PT
Coiler,

There's apparently more than one Lover's Leap Tad. I Tad (Weinstein) probably climbed Fantasia while you all were in diapers. My family and I now live in Taiwan, so my Lover's Leap days are a bit behind me.

I still say Aidan rocks! He climbs a bhundred times better than most of the parking lot wankers at the Leap and therefore a few new bolts here and there are justified. The guy is one of the best trad climbers I've ever known and has onsighted an amazing array of stuff (along hwy 50 and elsewhere).

Stay calm all!

Tad Weinstein
coiler

Trad climber
yosemite
Dec 10, 2006 - 07:09pm PT
I appreciate Oddchicks endorsement... But when I see the proud Tahoe legacy get whittled away for one man's avarice... I turn mean. As all who have spent any time with me know that I have opened my home to many a dirty monkey. They would also know that I do not tolerate "climbers" who feel they need to bring the standard down so that they can feel they've acheived more. Many times have I left wired nuts, cams, and carabiners behind because I could not send a route if it was "to scary". And that's the difference in me and some other ASCA type climbers. I'd rather use the climb as inspiration to push myself and come back when I had the sack. Routes like "Deviate", "arrowroot", and so many others at Lover's Leap, Phantom spires, and Sugarloaf have grown bolts over the years (and that's just one example). All this in the same time period that Aiden got himself a powerdrill. It's tough to keep chopping these when they are "bolted" with a Bosh by someone with no regards to the proud history that's been laid before them. Aiden, I'm still waiting for your response to why you feel you must be the "steward" of Tahoe Climbing. A proud history that you feel needs to be changed with your VISION... of... the...FUTURE!!!
My name is Coiler... and I endorse this message!
Oh and P.S. Tad Weinstien is not the man of "Steele"- my proud climbing partner (who's not afriad to get his feet above a #1 wired nut) and is a good friend who loves the rock for what it is....Oh yeah, the real Lovers' Leap Tad and I climbed "Fantasia" together before it had any bolts...
Messages 21 - 40 of total 71 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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