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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
climber
Calyfucinphornya
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 7, 2006 - 09:08am PT
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I just put up a new route at Sugarloaf.
Bewilderbeast 12a or b (tentative). It starts up Beast of Burden. At the 3rd bolt the route traverses left into the center of the face and continues to the top. Total of 10 Bolts and 2 knobs (one optional). It has some cool knob moves with some long reaches but the crux is the technical stuff between. It is quite sustained in places. I think it's well safe but there are some hard moves with a bolt at or a below your feet. The rock is excellent. Its about 100 - 105ft and a 60 meter will just about get you down. It ends at the Gallows Pole anchor.
It is all cleaned up and awaits a second.
Aidan
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Sounds pretty cool. BoB is a classic. I think Jon Fox and I were looking at that face lo' years ago when we scared an owl out of Schiester and did BoB instead...
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coiler
Trad climber
yosemite
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So, is this another bolt over the top of the old runout route, like what was done to "Telesis" (at Sugarloaf) or "Arrowroot" (at lover's leap)?
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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-knott to mention essentially retrobolting the classic Price-Smith at Phantom Spires,
and a 10b X route at Sugarloaf. Those added bolts loudly testify, and rob others of
any chance of doing the routes in the original, run-out style.
"Independant lines", my ass...
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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coiler, is arctic breeze a retrobolt of arrowroot?
I guess that would explain why I couldn't find arrowroot!
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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"ditto" with Coiler and Hardman...
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Chalky Fingers
climber
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Some people should not be allowed to bolt! This assclown is the worst!!!!
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Is this what people mean by "mixed reviews?"
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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I dunno, seems like "12b" is not stanced very often. If Tripod() bolted the line I'm thinking of it's no retro. Maybe you're thinking of that 10c to the right a few hundred feet that wanders near a run 10b...but I won't be out at the loaf in the near future to looksee again.
Any of you guys done BoB? it's a testy little Mishler (Doug) route iirc. I recommend tight shoes...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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at least it's a climbing topic. I've given up. I'm going to political topics.
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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yea, I vote that only those who think they know it all should be allowed to bolt! How do I get on the allowed to bolt list?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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atch, I've added your name to the list. welcome aboard.
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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suhweeeeett!!! Thanks caught, meet me at sugarloaf, I will bring the annihilator. I saw a new line that traverses from Bolee Gold, through Hooker's Haven, farley, the crux of Taurus and finishes on the fracture.
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Xela
climber
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426 wrote:
> Any of you guys done BoB? it's a testy little Mishler (Doug)
> route iirc.
Not that it really matters but Beast of Burden was a Chris Clifford route. One of the first rap bolted lines in the area.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
climber
Calyfucinphornya
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2006 - 04:47pm PT
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It is always with some trepidation that I ever post on this chit chat page. Yet I always find myself enjoying the fray with the bad-mouthers that frequent it. As for coiler: If you payed even a half wit's attention to my report you will clearly understand it to be a new route that comes out of BOB at the 3rd bolt.
As for rebolting the "classic" Price-Smith. They took one of the most notable features on the upper spire got 40 feet up could not make it go bolting on lead and took a 90 degree left tun and bailed onto Roberts Crack 30 feet over. I considered it an incompleted line not a classic. I think I was taking liberties with it but could not get hold of either of them and it is a stunning feature. I think Lesbien Love that that follows this beautiful dike all the way up is killer, and enjoyed by many. Try it when its bathed in a nice Spires alpenglow for an amazing asthetic experience.
Re: Tapestry and Crushed Velvet. Before that route went in I spoke with Joel Moore who actually watched the FA. His opinion was that it was a new line and should be called as such. And so it was. If you actually get up on that face and look around you will see that Blue Velvet actually infringes on the old Tapestry route quite a bit.
Let's see, what else.
Chalky Fingers. All I can think is you must be one of those pathetic tossers that like to take ownership at the Leap every summer? Either way I suspect you could not climb any of the routes you bad mouth me about. So right back at you pal. Your a worthless wanker and I'll be climbing long after you've given up cragging and gone fulltime into your next career: Dumpster diving
Peace and Love
Aidan Maguire
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Thanks for the correction, Xela. I knew it was rapped and think it's a superb route. Fine arete climbing after the initial "bouldering"...maybe it was Doug who rec'd it to me...
Remember when tahoe had the "S" grade, fellas?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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hey aidan, check your email.
cheers,
dave
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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The "S" grade as in S.12c was for " Sport " or more specifically rap-bolted climbs in a vain attempt @ FA style reporting. Made a brief appearance in Basecamp/Climbing in 88'
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