What did you climb today!

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tradmanclimbs

Ice climber

Pomfert VT

Mar 10, 2013 - 10:57pm PT

I reccon my partners boots, tools and crampons were older than anyone in that party.....

Young, strong and stupid......

Gilroy

Social climber

Bolderado

Mar 10, 2013 - 11:08pm PT

You don't want to spend much time under those sorts, eh, Nick.

Knott-eye,
Keith

jopay

climber

so.il

Mar 11, 2013 - 10:26am PT

This should probably be over on the "60" thread, but I turned 67 Sunday and Saturday I climbed a 5.10c, 5.10a, 5.8, and 5.12a, sent everything but the 5.12, I had some hangs but clipped the anchor.

gonzo chemist

climber

Fort Collins, CO

Mar 13, 2013 - 10:14pm PT

Had a fun day out clipping bolts in Boulder Canyon.

5.9
5.11a
5.11a
5.11c
5.9
5.11b

Funny how you can never remember the names of sport climbs....

but it IS BoCan...so we can take these grades with a grain of salt...

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Mar 13, 2013 - 10:29pm PT

No pics, but today we did Rock Warrior in Black Velvet. Decided on this as plan b after seeing the queue at prince of darkness and wild turkeys. First 2 pitches were fun (pitch 1 was a bit spicy) but after that it got pretty repetitive and monotonous. The saving grace was the route / gear finding puzzle.

Don't know if I'll ever bother with Prince, since it looks like the exact same thing, except mind numbingly well protected.

Might go back tomorrow for Fiddler on the roof.

The Larry

climber

Moab, UT

Mar 13, 2013 - 11:22pm PT

Fiddler looks awesome. Just don't fall on the roof. Sour Mash, and Yellow Brick Road are good too. All I did today was a few pitches on Wall ST. Did 30 second over Potash in 63 seconds. Not my best but I'm out of shape.

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Mar 14, 2013 - 12:02pm PT

My finger got kind of torn up and bloody yesterday, and some stuff to do came up, so we'll save fiddler for next week. Ya, I've read and heard some interesting stories about people who have pitched off traversing above the roof. I need to get an ascender(s) of some sort to bring along just in case. I don't expect either me or my partner to go for the ride, but anything is possible.

The whole thing just looks so good, plus of course the cache of doing a route like that (not that I care about such things :) ) Multiple people coming off POD interviewed us about the Rock Warrior experience. It was a little weird.

According to Handren's book, Rock Warrior sees less ascents in a year than POD does in a busy day. That's amazing to me. Must mean Fidder gets the same amount in a decade?

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Mar 14, 2013 - 01:36pm PT

It was mostly good. First pitch is pretty spicy as you move up to (insecure, sandy slab) and then past the bolt. It was made even more spicy by my partner's route finding. He went straight up and then traversed directly right to the belay, whereas an up and right(ish) direction would have made the climbing a bit easier. There was potential for a pretty long whip onto the starting slab. I was prepared to jump off the first belay ledge if need be.

Upon further investigation, it looks like the path we took for pitch 1 might have been kind of a combination of RW and Sandstone samurai? Not really sure, except that the crux as we did it on that pitch felt noticeably harder than that of pitch #2 (on which I almost didn't really even notice a crux). Pitch one as we did it had a few moves that could be 10c/d (when compared with pitch 2), especially if you were on lead doing them with a possible leg breaking fall to the starting slab as your reward for botching it.

The first gear my partner placed after the bolt (after pulling the crux) was not great. #4 stopper in a bit of a flare. Then more runout until finally a couple of good placements. After that, it's easier going until the anchor.

I led pitch #2 (also 10b) and it wasn't nearly as scary nor seemed as hard, even though there were 40 foot sections unprotected. A fall anywhere on it, though long, would be clean. The higher you go, the better the gear.

The rest of the pitches are 5.9/9+, with long runouts and good gear when you need it. Some RP's could be useful to take some of the spice out of it, but we didn't bring any. Honestly, if you're able to stand around fiddling in gear like that, you're able to just keep on going.

The only thing that really made it a little hair raising is that many of the holds look like they could break. I often opted for smaller, more solid looking edges over larger features that were lined with hair line fractures.

Honestly though, after pitch #2, the climbing itself was monotonous and only having to figure out the puzzle of route finding (mostly having to think about if a hold might break or not) made it interesting. All that standing around en route could add up to fatigued feet and calves. An arm pump should never be a problem.

I have always really enjoyed cerebral footwork face routes, like at Tuolumne and Jtree. So, this route is in the vein of things like that. But,in the case of RW, there were too many holds. Removing the possibility of breaking something from the equation leaves you with dozens of possible ways to advance each time. If that makes sense...

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Mar 14, 2013 - 04:01pm PT

I'd say climb prince of darkness first. If it feels casual, then you're probably good to go on RW. Just make sure you do pitch #1 with proper route finding, and not like we did it. You could even climb pitch 1 of POD and then traverse left to the anchors atop P1 of RW and continue that route from there, thus avoiding the most puckering and dangerous part. You could even each lower to the start and TR P1 before continuing on.

And, I'd be plenty interested in getting out sometime. You live over here by RR now? PM me and we can talk more about it.

curt wohlgemuth

Social climber

Bay Area, California

Mar 14, 2013 - 04:29pm PT

Pretty funny reading the BV posts! I've done Fiddler once, but I've never felt confident to do Rock Warrior!!

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Mar 14, 2013 - 08:44pm PT

Sounds like you're less than a mile from me. Ok, check you later.

hossjulia

Trad climber

Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet

Mar 14, 2013 - 09:33pm PT

Been climbing around on the ceiling of 2 rooms in a log cabin the past 2 days, with the help of a ladder, and I'm worked! Belay neck, check, Big Toe reaching stance, check, side pulls off cracks in logs, check and check. Used my opposing pushing muscles to scrub all the beams down with Murphy's. Oh, that was after I vacuumed every square inch of wall and ceiling. Moved furniture, delicately cleaned paintings, and a humming bird nest, still in the branch. Sh-Shoulders are on fire. Elbows complaining, hands feel like claws and I have scrapes and hunks of hide missing from invisible nails.

Feels like I've done a good bit of climbing!
Sure feel ready for The City, but it won't be till May. :(

(The art work and antiques in this place were stunning.)

Edge

Trad climber

New Durham, NH

Mar 14, 2013 - 11:01pm PT

Snow is melting fast here in NH, so this afternoon we went out to the local crag for our second day on the rock in this young season.

I took my new hammer (thank you, Taco Secret Santa "Gal!") and hand drilled a bolt for a new line that will go down this weekend. Two 25' slabs, both around .10 a/b lead to a slightly overhanging but jug filled 5.7 arête.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Mar 14, 2013 - 11:37pm PT

More crack

gonzo chemist

climber

Fort Collins, CO

Mar 15, 2013 - 09:07pm PT

Well not today, but a bit of bouldering yesterday...this place had a bit of an approach. Discovered an AMAZING unclimbed boulder on my hike back to the car (but I'm keeping that one secret for now!).

And the best part was getting to spend the whole day with the world's sweetest pooch, the lovely Ms. Bean!

the usual car cluster...plus one very happy Bean...

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2013 - 09:18pm PT

Jack led his first route today. Nothing hard but it was on site, putting up his own draws and threading the rope on his own. PPD(pretty proud dad).

GC those are some great looking boulders and the peak looks good too.