Nose Reunion November 8, 2008

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Chicken Skinner

Trad climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2008 - 07:07pm PT

Lostinshanghai, I am drooling all over myself.

Ken

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Aug 11, 2008 - 11:27pm PT

That makes two of us! Any idea what the rest of these shapes look like?

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2008 - 12:16am PT

He was way ahead of his time. I think I have a letter of his and will scan when I can.

Ken

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Aug 12, 2008 - 10:52am PT

Have to find a West Ridge catalog or Dennis Henneck to solve the Doltchocks mystery. So many ideas, so little time...from the man of a thousand Trademarks!

lostinshanghai

Social climber

someplace

Aug 12, 2008 - 01:51pm PT

Steve

Nice. Would be great to find out.

Do know that he was an engineer for I believe Edwards Air Force Base in Palmdale.

Also heard that he was fed up with the politics of US at the time and left.

Can see where the ideas came from.

You were right Ken, a man ahead of his time.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Aug 12, 2008 - 09:26pm PT

I talked with Steve Roper this afternoon looking for some chronological Nose info and the last sentence in the '59 AAJ states that the amount of vertical prussiking had not been estimated. Memory kink...

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2008 - 01:32pm PT

I posted this on another thread. It seems like it is appropriate for this one too.

Ken

snakefoot

climber

cali

Aug 16, 2008 - 10:59pm PT

just for kicks, who designed this and who is makin cash? I would hope some crag rat is gettin a major part.
i have not read much of the previous talk so forgive me if i skipped the key discussion.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Aug 17, 2008 - 01:38am PT

Interviewed Frank Tarver for an hour and a half today. He was involved in the FA of the North Buttress of Middle with Warren, Craig Holden and John Whitmer in a three day effort in May 1954.

Later that year in July, Frank, Warren and Bob Swift did the second ascent of Salathe and Nelson's Lost Arrow Chimney. On the infamous Safety Valve, Warren climbed right by several FA bolts that were cleaned by the second to reuse the hangers higher up on the route. Frank was the last one up and noticed the chopped bolts.

Two years before he passed away, Warren returned one of the three original Stovelegs to Frank who originally found them in the Berkeley dump and had them made into pitons. Frank has generously donated this famous piton to the YCA along with a Salathe ring angle from the Lost Arrow Chimney.

The Tarver Stoveleg measures 2 1/2" X 8 3/4."

A master blacksmith, Salathe bettered the ring angle design in several ways on this flat-spined, solid eye version. The paint was certainly applied long after it became briefly fixed.

Things of historic beauty that you will soon be able to check out yourself if you make the Nose event. Many thanks to Frank for his generousity and support. It was a pleasure spending the afternoon with him.

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2008 - 09:15pm PT

Raydog

Trad climber

Boulder Colorado

Aug 22, 2008 - 09:23pm PT

beautiful, Ken.

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2008 - 09:35pm PT

Yeah, it sure is Ray. I wish I had that one. All I have is a photo. May turn up some day.

Ken

Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber

valley center, ca

Aug 22, 2008 - 09:37pm PT

beautiful colors on the old pro....

Is that a t-shirt for the 50th Nose Reunion ? If so where can you get one ?

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2008 - 09:51pm PT

Lynne, the shirts are being sold in the Valley at DNC stores. There are 2 colors and they are numbered with 5,000 made. YCA gets a share of the proceeds.

Ken

P.S. Fattrad, I need to figure out catering for the event. You have any connections?

Ouch!

climber

Aug 22, 2008 - 10:27pm PT

NOSE REUNION

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2008 - 06:25pm PT

Nice one Ouch.

Warrens hammer. Made from a modified center punch. The handle broke sending the head to the ground. You can see the ding in the head. A new handle was made and the hammer sent back up.

Ken