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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 26, 2008 - 02:25pm PT
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I am putting together a 50 year Nose reunion/celebration for November 8th of this year. It appears that 6 of the 9 people involved in the ascent will be able to show up. The only ones that won't be there are Warren Harding and Bill "Dolt" Feurer. I will give more details later. It will be a unique show and one you may want to put on your calendar.
Ken
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Double D
climber
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Jul 26, 2008 - 02:32pm PT
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Ken...you da man!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 26, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
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on my calendar! I'll be there
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jul 26, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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This sounds so awesome. It'd be nice to go, but we won't be able to. I look forward to a HUGE number of photos of the event on ST.
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john hansen
climber
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Jul 26, 2008 - 02:53pm PT
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So who are the six of eight that will be there ?? Looking in "The vertical world of yosemite" I only find reference to six climbers..
Warren Harding
Bill "Dolt Feuerer
George Whitmore,(ask him if he still has that stoveleg piton)
Rick Calderwood
Mark Powell
Wayne Merry
Who are the final two,,, Robbins and Frost for the second acsent?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2008 - 03:05pm PT
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Wally Reed and Al Steck are the other two. Frost, Robbins, Pratt and Joe Fitschen did the second ascent in 1960.
Ken
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Jul 26, 2008 - 03:07pm PT
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I believe Harding talked Alan Steck into joining his team, but
Steck bailed after after going up once, saying Harding had promised it "would be fun", but "it wasn't".
I also recall reading Steck saying the exposure was appalling.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2008 - 03:31pm PT
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Some teasers: Warren and Mark Powell at the base next to their hemp fixed rope in 1957.
Bill "Dolt" Feuerer prusiking the hemp fixed line. 1957. Scary!
Warren during the climb in 1958. Photo by Wayne Merry.
Warren prusiking during an early attempt in 1957. Photo by Al Steck.
I suspect that prusiking hemp ropes with that kind of exposed climbing would have frightened most climbers. Wally Reed tugged on the rope after Harding had gone up it and it broke. I asked Wally if it didn't scare him when it happened. He said "No, I was standing on a ledge". Talk about nerves of steel.
Ken
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 26, 2008 - 03:36pm PT
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I am personally looking forward to the dedication of Camp Six as Whitmore Tower after fifty years. George spent a lot of time studying the route from across the valley and spotted the sloping ledge well ahead of time. As the sun was going down high in the upper dihedral Warren was preparing to set up yet another belay stance after a short lead when George yelled up to him that there was a good ledge just out of sight a little higher. Warren complied and was delighted to find yet another chink in the Captain's armor. "We'll have to call it Whitmore Tower!" he yelled down to his equally pleased partner.
That moment slipped by but it is time to reclaim it.
Sickle Ledge, Dolt Tower, El Cap Towers and now Whitmore Tower to round out the history. I personally was never fond of the "Camp" names and Batso's expeditionary humor.
What do people think? I found George's story compelling enough to want to enshrine it. So much effort went into the Nose by people other than Warren that I think the gesture is appropriate and certainly timely.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2008 - 04:37pm PT
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Some more photos. Here is a Dolt photo taken by Al Steck.
Harding and Powell rapping off after the first attempt when Powell got them through the Stovelegs. Photo by Dolt?
Harding portrait.
Harding on the summit during the cleanup two weeks after the climb. This was when they found the summit register tree had fallen over. Calderwood joked that Warren's, George's and Wayne's signatures were to heavy for that poor tree.
Want to see some equipment?
Ken
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Jul 26, 2008 - 05:01pm PT
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Yes Ken, more pictures! thanks
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10b4me
climber
the gray bands
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Jul 26, 2008 - 05:26pm PT
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I hope to make this.
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Ouch!
climber
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Jul 26, 2008 - 07:52pm PT
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I was in the park when they began the climb in '57. I was kinda busy watching some Outlaw Bikers eating pickled pig's feet.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 27, 2008 - 01:36pm PT
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But seriously folks.....
We're talking about The Line here!
From Roper's Camp 4, 1994.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 06:12pm PT
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Here is a letter written by the NPS after the climb.
Here is the response.
Ken
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder (out in the sagebrush)
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Jul 30, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
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Gotta try me some of that "trick climbing" sometime.....hmmmmm.
That's some COOL sh#t there Ken....
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jul 30, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
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Ken, I hopr you will have display photos gear etc. at the "Reunion"
I'll be there!
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scuffy b
climber
Zeno's Paradise
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Jul 30, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
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That's great.
I have a question about the spike method of climbing.
What proportion of pitons used to climb the Nose were
Chrome-Moly or Chrome-Vanadium, opposed to soft iron,
and where did they get them?
Salathe had left the scene by then, right?
Chouinard hadn't really geared up his production, had he?
Had Dolt made many by then?
Chuck Wilts?
EDIT: on second read, I see that they also drove spokes into the rock.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder (out in the sagebrush)
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Jul 30, 2008 - 06:30pm PT
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It's hard to drive spokes, man....they're skinny & will snap. Then ya gotta steal another rental bike for more spokes.....
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 06:39pm PT
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The contents
The current exhibit in the Yosemite Museum has been extended to November 9th and it has a fair amount of Nose items. You can see some of this stuff.
Ken
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jul 30, 2008 - 06:45pm PT
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I saw the display... Loved it. Ken it really shows that that you are getting your arms around how to present your extensive collection to the climbers and the masses.
Thank you for your efforts!
Jay
edit: grammer
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 06:46pm PT
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Summit photo. They had to feel good.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 07:04pm PT
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The summit register.
"I think all that bolting on the last pitch did something to my back."
"Do you boys have a permit?"
Ken
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho
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Jul 30, 2008 - 07:08pm PT
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Holy Camoly. Those are some of the most important pictures ever in the history of mankind. Serious.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 07:20pm PT
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Summit shot of Wayne.
Summit shot of Warren.
Ken
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Jul 30, 2008 - 07:25pm PT
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Great stuff Ken!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 08:23pm PT
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This thread was sinking fast. I have to keep it near the top so I don't lose it. I have plenty more to throw on it.
What was all the hoopla about? Cold War and other news.
Here is the fancy climbing vest that Harding mentions in his letter to Calderwood.
Ken
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder (out in the sagebrush)
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Jul 30, 2008 - 08:55pm PT
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History bump, Ken....
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 09:05pm PT
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Not another letter!
Directions to the party.
Could be 3rd class, especially after the party.
Ken
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder (out in the sagebrush)
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Jul 30, 2008 - 10:52pm PT
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'nother History bump...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 30, 2008 - 11:05pm PT
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Other than route beta, Is there any better beta than beach party beta ?
What great history..... lrl
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 11:28pm PT
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Mark Powell doin' it up in '57!
This must have been handy!
More to follow.
Ken
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 30, 2008 - 11:37pm PT
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Say, Anastasia, can you get time off? I'll pick you up and we can make the scene ? RSVP so I can calendar it in....I'm going so we can share a room. lrl
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
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Lightweight aluminum angle definitely well used.
Before mountain shops, gear was bought at the local hardware store.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2008 - 12:20am PT
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Most of you are speechless. Some things weren't such a good idea. For example, this bail cord. Well, it was used for fixing and bailing to the bar.
These never really caught on either.
Harding and his winch. This idea never caught on either. Apparently climbing and winches don't mix.
Photo by Wayne Merry
The power is out again here. I bought a generator and it gives me something to do in the dark. Awesome!
Ken
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Shaft
Boulder climber
SL,UT
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Jul 31, 2008 - 12:30am PT
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Speechless.
Awesome thread.
That well-written letter from the FA party to the NPS is a jewel.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
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A couple classic bivy shots.
Ken
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Jul 31, 2008 - 06:57pm PT
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bump.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2008 - 07:05pm PT
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" I am so embarrassed. It'll never work."
Truly, a thing of beauty!
The business end.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2008 - 07:21pm PT
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A few more. Here is the gang at the base.
Harding portrait.
Calderwood during the cleanup two weeks after the climb.
Calderwood signing the fallen summit register during the cleanup.
That's all for now.
Ken
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 31, 2008 - 08:01pm PT
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Wow, color photos of the Dolt Cart!
It looks like part of Ellen Searby's effort for the team was to load it?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 31, 2008 - 08:25pm PT
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Ken, so very awesome ! Save some bail cord for Anastasia and I ...thinking we will be there for the par-ti ! smiles, lynne
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder (out in the sagebrush)
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Jul 31, 2008 - 09:19pm PT
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That is Super-bitchin', Ken.... Dolt's Cart. Nice!...Groove on, sir.
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captain chaos
climber
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Thanks Kenny... its great to see all these photos and letters, what a great moment in the history of Yosemite climbing. One can only imagine what was going on in their heads when they embarked on such a climb, especially when you consider the equipment available to them at the time. Adventures like that are pure and priceless. Thanks for keeping it alive... Craig
PS
Wish I could come, but I'll be at the bottom of the world at that time... and last but not least, I miss Warren.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Thanks Ken, if there is any way, I will be there. Man those guys were eloquent
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Bump for great history.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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F*#k yeah!! Now this is a worthwhile SuperTaco thread!
I can't believe this is the first time I've seen it. BS threads bumping it off the front page... lame.
More great unseen photos and letters. Ken you are the man.
I can't wait for Saturday Nov. 8!!!!
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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And look at the headline to the left of the Nose article. Mussy was trolling in 1958!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Ken this will be fun.
Yes I will be there because I always spend my seasons in Yosemite Valley.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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hey Russ, why were you saying we'd be attacking from space?
do you remember?
could you actually talk then?
and how did the Fresno Bee find out?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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I'm thinking that was a couple years before Russ made his grand entrance on the planet.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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It sounds like Russ may have had a Bee in his baby bonnet, or something.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2008 - 09:30pm PT
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I am glad you are all enjoying the pictures. Rich Calderwood drove up to the Valley the other day and dropped off a box of stuff for YCA. I scanned about 75 of his slides and many of them I had not seen before. I just love that old stuff. I am still figuring out what we should do on the night of the 8th. I am open to suggestions, doesn't mean I will use them, but I might. DNC has given me free hotel rooms for them. How cool is that?
I think it is going to be a big night.
Ken
P.S. When I started climbing as a twelve year old, I read any book or magazine that I could find to learn from. The people mentioned in these books and articles became heroes to me. I never dreamed that I would get to know them and become friends. Life is great!
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Ken
Trying to think and trying to recall but I pretty sure it was Calderwood who told me about what became or happened to "Dolt's Cart" after many years in his cache of .....
Get a hold of him, I know the story and will not post it.
You will say "No way"
You can post it or wait till for him to tell the story which would be good for Nov.
If he does not have any info then it was Whitmore, but pretty sure it was Calderwood.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2008 - 10:01pm PT
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Lostinshanghai,
I know what happened to it too. I think it was Whitmore. I will verify it the next time I see him.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2008 - 12:33am PT
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This thread just went to the second page in 2 1/2 hours. Say goodbye to it. Way too much work to keep it going. I was really hoping to have a thread (personal goal) reach a hundred.
Ken
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WBraun
climber
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Don't worry Ken.
The spirit of that ascent will remain immortal.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder (out in the sagebrush)
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Yeah, it's the Nose, Man. Wow.(Really). What were those guys thinking? .........
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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from Chris Jones Climbing In North America
Yosemite Valley. It is the Fourth of July weekend in 1957. The heat is oppressive, and the campgrounds are overflowing. The roads are crowded with cars that make their way from viewpoint to store and back to viewpoint. Tourists idly drink Coke and tap time to the radio as they cruise up and down. They are in Yosemite for a good time. The scenery may be a bonus, but many of them would just as soon be at Las Vegas. They look upon Yosemite as an outdoor amusement park. There is a sense of bored pleasure seeking in the air.
This sense of ennui contrasts with the urgency of three grimy young men. They, too, seem oblivious to the scenery, but they are not bored. Harding, Feuerer, and Powell have just been aced out of Half Dome and are earnestly discussing their next move. A climbing revolution is about to take place in Yosemite, a revolution that in less than ten years will put American climbers at the forefront of the sport and influence mountaineering all over the world.
After grumbling around the valley in a "fit of egotistical pique," Harding decided to cap the Half Dome climb by a harder one. He looked across at the 3,000-foot south buttress of El Capitan and emphatically stated, "I'm gonna climb that god-damn line."
His concept was audacious. Yosemite climbers had never seriously considered El Capitan, for it was outside their frame of reference. With its uniform smoothness, its lack of resting places, and above all its overpowering size, it represented a new dimension in American climbing. It would obviously require a new approach. In anticipation of progress on the order of 100 feet a day, the trio agreed to work upward by a series of well-stocked camps linked together and to the ground by fixed ropes, somewhat analogous to Himalayan climbing. Once in place, the ropes could be climbed by slings and prusik knots, and the camps restocked with food and gear from below.
Harding and his friends scrounged what gear they could and set to work. The initial leads were hard. The blind or "bottoming" cracks buckled their pitons. They were forced to place several bolts in order to reach the first real ledge on the climb, Camp 1, 300 feet up the wall. Hard steel pitons would have been a godsend. Powell tried to trade for some Salathe pitons, but they were already collector's items, and he managed only to obtain a couple.
From Camp 1 they worked right and pendulumed into the awesome 400-foot Stoveleg Crack. Only four of their pitons were large enough to span its two-inch width. These were made from the sawed-off legs of a gas stove unearthed in the Berkeley city dump. When the leader had placed all of them, he lowered himself from the top piton and cleared out those below. This "leapfrogging" was a touchy business; the leader was poorly protected once he extracted the lower pitons. Stoveleg Crack was a scary place.
After seven days they descended. Although their gear was badly mauled, they were on their way. The ropes stretched 1,000 feet up the wall. On the ground they ran into an unexpected problem. Rubber-necking tourists had brought traffic to a standstill. The crusty chief ranger banned any further activity on El Cap during the peak tourist season from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Little was achieved apart from the replacement of borrowed ropes. In the fall, disaster struck. Powell smashed his ankle on a simple climb.
Through the winter Feuerer worked hard developing specialized gear. Although an ingenious craftsman, he had an unfortunate capacity for error. He was nicknamed the Dolt. He made several types of piton including an adjustable model consisting of two parts locked together by bolts. To ease the horrendous task of supplying the lead climbers with food and water, he built a cart out of aircraft parts and bicycle wheels. It would be loaded with gear and winched up the face by a capstan arrangement.
When they got back on the climb in the spring, they put the "Dolt Cart" through its paces. It had a tendency to go belly-up and was less than a sensation. The ground party in charge of loading the cart continually tried to please the climbers with new goodies. One blistering day the sent an ice-cold six-pack of beer up to Camp 2 (Dolt Tower). Harding and Powell took one look and knew better. Feuerer downed a couple of cans. After a moment's pause he sprang to his feet and announced that he was going to learn to fly. In spite of flying and the Dolt Cart they advanced the route to midheight before the summer recess insisted on by the chief ranger.
During the summer, rifts appeared in the team. With Powell partially disabled, Harding felt they were too weak to carry off the climb and invited others. Feuerer became disenchanted with climbing, quoted the Bible in letters to Harding, and left the team. In order to set Powell's broken ankle, the doctor fused the bone. Hampered by his disability, Powell was unable to play a major role in the climbing; on the first attempts he had done the bulk of the leading. Disturbed by the influx of newcomers and feeling less and less a part of the climb, he withdrew.
With his original partners out of the picture Harding drafted whomever he could. Most climbers did not want to be involved in such a long, drawn-out affair, and several of those who went up on the wall were overwhelmed by the scale and the exposure. El Capitan was a psychological frontier. About this time Royal Robbins almost became involved. Or did he? Robbins recollects that he got a postcard from Harding inviting him on board, an invitation he declined. Harding recalls a telephone conversation with Robbins. During the conversation Robbins reportedly said that, as Harding was not making much progress, he was thinking of getting up a team. He would use Harding's equipment as far as it went and then go for the top. And what was Harding's reaction to that, he wanted to know. "Fine by me," replied Harding and the after a distinct pause, "but exactly what would you say you had done?"
In any event Robbins never appeared on the rock, and in September 1958, Harding was back with a large party. In appalling heat they pushed the route upward only a couple of hundred feet in nine days: from the vicinity of El Cap Tower (Camp 3) to Camp 4 1,900 feet above the ground. Among other trials there was a logistical problem; the lead men consumed food and water faster than the haulers could bring it up. After this protracted struggle and two short skirmishes, the chief ranger gave Harding an ultimatum: either get up by Thanksgiving or abandon the climb. This unenforceable deadline did not bother Harding and Wayne Merry, who now emerged as his strongest partner. It was exactly their attitude as well; they were pretty sick of the whole affair.
Early in November with Rich Calderwood and George Whitmore in support, Harding and Merry set out on a determined bid. From Camp 4 they worked out under the Great Roof, a feared pitch that turned out to be reasonable, and up into the dihedrals that lead to the summit. Days passed. They established Camp 5 and then 6. On the evening of the ninth day a storm provided a welcome relief from the ceaseless hammering, the exposure, and the constant nervous tension. Holed up in Camp 6, Harding and Merry took stock of the situation. Below them they reckoned Whitmore was near Camp 4 ready to ferry up loads, and they knew Calderwood had already had his fill of El Capitan and had gone down. Ahead, they reckoned one long day might see them over the top.
On the morning of their eleventh day they heard a yodel from the top. Harding shouted a strangled reply through a mouthful of food. When they heard his squawk, his waiting friends became anxious. They decided the climbers were in a desperate fix and lowered them a rope. It was the last thing that Harding and Merry wanted. They had not come this far to be hauled off. The intended to finish under their own steam. In vain, they yelled up to their friends to get the "goddamn rope" the hell out of the way. The weather looked to be worsening, and Harding determined to go all out for the top and work through the night if necessary. By the light of his headlamp he drilled bolt holes in the overhanging headwall. Ironically, as he did, the rope hung within easy reach. He stuck to the lead without relief and placed twenty-six bolts. Just after sunrise he pulled himself over the top. El Capitan had been won, an enduring testament to man's spirit and a landmark in American climbing.
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captain chaos
climber
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Don't loose sleep over the posting action here Kenny, I long ago learned climbing subjects do not generate much attention on this website, just take a look at the ones which get the most posting numbers and you'll see what I mean. Regardless, there are a few of us who appreciate what you are doing and love seeing the photos, letters and stories of the days of old. So... if nothing else keep posting for those of us who know what they are and appreciate them, their great and for some of us its the only way we're going to be able to see them... tu hermano- Craig
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2008 - 11:00am PT
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Hi Craig,
Don't worry. I won't lose any sleep over it. I'm off to the Meadows and am taking my kids climbing. See you later.
Ken
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Looks like a fun filled party. Where exactly should I deliver the Kegs of Beer? Time?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Hi Ken, I would post more on threads like this with questions and comments, but to tell you the truth, and this may sound "funny", but it almost seems irreverent to be a newish, nobody climber and discuss these super incredible people and the enormity of what they accomplished.
To me these people and others today are beyond real.... the skill, the brain control, figuring out lines and getting them DONE ! How the BITD climbers used whatever they could create, manufacture or find as far as gear, footwear etc. to accomplish their crazy almost unbelievable goals.
I SO appreciate these history lessons and the opportunity to view these incredible pictures. Through your Threads so many of us get the opportunity to become better acquainted with these larger than life humans that have gifted so much to the climbing community and the world really.
Thank you so very much for what you do, Ken, we all appreciate the time and the effort it takes to do this.
Very Sincerely, Lynne
PS, it's easy to pop out a quick reply to a silly thread...thus the lengthy silly threads. But your climbing history threads often leave me bug eyed and speechless....and so wishing I myself could have been there BITD.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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from page 184 of the 1959 American Alpine Journal
El Capitan
WARREN J. HARDING
l SUPPOSE this article could be titled “The Conquest of El Capitan.” However, as I hammered in the last bolt and staggered over the rim, it was not at all clear to me who was conqueror and who was conquered: I do recall that El Cap seemed to be in much better condition than I was.
The above mentioned last bolt marked the conclusion of a venture that began in July, 1957. Mark Powell, Bill “Dolt” Feuerer and I met in Yosemite Valley intending to make an attempt on the North Face of Half Dome. We discovered that an excellent team of climbers from southern California was already at work on it and had the situation well in hand. In our disappointment, we became a bit rash and decided to “have a go” at El Cap.
I’m sure no climber ever considered El Cap impossible-the term “impossible climb” having long since become obsolete. The fact that, previously, there had been no serious attempts to scale the sheer 2900-foot face was simply due to the common belief among rock climbers that techniques were not sufficiently advanced to cope with such a problem.
After we decided to attempt the climb, we spent an entire day studying the face in search of a continuous route to the summit. It is interesting to note that, on the climb, the route went exactly as we planned, with the possible exception of the “Roof Pitch,” a formidable-looking overhang about 2000 feet up. I felt it would be best to bypass this obstacle, using a crack somewhat to the east. Later this crack proved to be only a water streak and we were forced to negotiate the “Roof.”
It was obvious that existing methods of conducting a sustained rockclimb would be inadequate. Because of the extreme difficulty of the climbing we anticipated slow progress-perhaps no more than 100 to 200 feet a day. We would spend many days on the rock, so reasonably comfortable campsites were a necessity. Unfortunately there appeared to be very few ledges. We agreed unanimously that the only feasible plan of attack would be to establish a succession of camps up the face, linking them with fixed ropes. Supplies wouId be hauled up from the ground as needed. This would require a support party to assemble and tie loads to our hauling lines. Throughout the climb, such people as John Whitmer, Cookie Calderwood, Ellen Searby, and Beverley Woolsey contributed much to the success of the climb as they patiently plodded up the talus with loads of food and water. Our technique was to be similar to that used in ascending high mountains, with prusiking and rappelling gear replacing ice axe and crampons as aids for traveling, and winch and hauling lines instead of Sherpas.
On July 4, 1957, we began hammering our way up the smooth, glacier polished wall. There was no thought of reaching the summit on this attempt-our tentative goal was El Cap Towers, the prominent pinnacles on the east side of the buttress about half way up the face.
On the third day we reached Sickle Ledge, 550 feet up, and established Camp I. The next four days were spent pushing the route upward toward the “Towers.” The climbing was almost entirely 6th class, direct aid, and about as difficult as can be imagined. Finally, 150 feet short of the lower tower, we were forced to give up. Our special “stoveleg” pitons which had brought us up 300 feet of the two- to three-inch-wide “Stoveleg Crack” were so battered and flattened that they would no longer hold.
Leaving fixed ropes behind to secure what we had gained, we descended. Reaching the ground, our spirits were somewhat dampened by an unexpected problem. It seemed that our climbing presented quite a spectacle and had attracted a crowd of tourists which created a traffic jam at the road-junction near the base. The park rangers were understandably distressed and we had to agree to stay off the rock during the tourist season, between Memorial Day and Labor Day. This meant we would be climbing with shorter days and less certain weather. Difficulties of the El Capitan ascent were not confined to the rock!
According to our agreement, nothing was done until after Labor Day except to replace the many borrowed climbing ropes left as fixed line with a newly purchased half-inch manila.
Beginning with a four-day tour at Thanksgiving, there was a series of attrition attacks extending through October 1958 which whittled away the remaining 2000 feet to a point from which a final push might stand a chance of success.
The accompanying Chronology of El Capital, First Ascent outlines this, but limited space in the “remarks” column prevents adequate description of the troubles and frustrations that plagued us in the next several months. About everything that could go wrong did.
The first, and probably worst, blow was Powell’s unfortunate accident. In September 1957, he took a bad fall (while on an easy climb) and fractured and dislocated his ankle, putting himself out of action for a long time, if not permanently. Then, weather in the spring and early fall of 1958 was abominable. New equipment such as the winch, laboriously carted 1200 feet up to “Dolt Tower,” was not nearly as effective as it might have been.
Along with the new equipment, new faces appeared on the rock. This, too, posed a problem. Powell and Feuerer felt that no new members should be admitted to the group. I didn’t think the three of us constituted a strong enough party to go ahead on El Cap, since Powell, who had climbed brilliantly on the first attempt, was no longer capable of doing much leading. The dissension arising from this situation ultimately resulted in Powell and Feuerer dropping out, except for the continued use of Feuerer’s pitons and other special equipment. So I continued with whatever “qualified” climbers I could “con” into this rather unpromising venture.
By mid-October 1958, Camp IV at 1800 feet and a high point at 2000 feet, just below the “Roof,” had been established. The Chief Ranger had given us a deadline-to complete the climb by Thanksgiving. I have never understood how this was to have been enforced. But it didn’t matter; we were all determined to reach the summit before winter.
After a long, hard look at the remaining 900 feet of the upper face, Wayne Merry, George Whitmore, Rich Calderwood, and I (who now made up the El Cap climbing party) agreed that an all-out effort was in order.
On November 1, 1958 we started up the fixed ropes for what we hoped would be the last time. The weather had cleared and the invigoratingly cool breezes were a pleasant contrast to the violent thunderstorms and oppressive heat of the nine-day effort in September. Due to a late start, we reached Camp IV a little after dark and were soon in our sleeping bags discussing plans for the next day’s activities.
Next morning we ascended the fixed line to the previous high point and went to work on the long-dreaded “Roof Pitch.” While strenuous and just a bit scary-nailing around the right side of the 180ş overhang with 2000 feet of space directly below-it proved to be not nearly as difficult as we had thought it would be. The following seven days blurred into a monotonous grind-if living and working 2500 feet above the ground on a vertical granite face can be considered monotonous! On Sunday evening, the ninth day, a storm broke, providing a welcome day of rest from the hammering and hauling.
While sitting out the storm at Camp VI, snug in our sleeping bags with a rubberized nylon tarp warding off the wind and snow, Wayne and I took stock of the situation. Except for Rich Calderwood, who had gone down with an attack of nerves, we were all in good condition. Whitmore was somewhere below, most likely Camp IV, and would be coming up with another load of food, We had been working out of Camp VI for the past three days and, while we were not certain, we felt that our high point was surely no more than a couple of hundred feet below the rim. A determined push might put us over the top in one more day. We liked the thought, anyway. We were getting just a little tired of the whole thing.
By Tuesday morning the storm had blown itself out. After shouting our plans down to George, Wayne and I left Camp VI with extra food and batteries for our headlamps. Mid-morning found us at our high point and pushing on. As we began nailing up the next pitch, we heard a most welcome sound-a yodel from the top! John Whitmer, Ellen Searby, and Rick Anderson had hiked in to meet us. Spurred on by the encouraging knowledge that we actually were near the rim (because of the intervening overhangs, it had been impossible to see exactly where we were), we hammered up the next two pitches with enthusiasm if not speed. It was nearly 4 o’clock when we reached the tiny ledge that would serve as a belay-spot for the last pitch.
We could now see John and Ellen peering down at us. Also visible was the route between us and the top-a most impressive looking pitch! The first 60 feet was rather straightforward 6th class up a wide crack. The crack ended under an overhanging wall that was 90 feet high and completely devoid of cracks-15 pitons, 28 bolts, and 14 hours were required to surmount that final pitch, But at 6 the next morning I pulled over the top and stared feebly at Ellen as she struggled with her camera’s faulty flash-attachment.
NOTES: The ascent took 45 days, spread over a period of 18 months. Although the face is 2900 feet high, so much altitude was lost due to numerous pendulum traverses, that a total of 3400 feet of climbing was necessary. About 675 pitons and 125 expansion bolts were used, 90 percent of which were for direct aid. The mileage of prusiking and rappeling has not been calculated.
Summary of Statistics
AREA: Yosemite National Park, California.
ASCENT: First ascent of the face of El Capitan.
PERSONNEL: Warren J. Harding, Wayne P. Merry, George Whitmore completed the climb, Additional members of final team-Richard Calderwood, John Whitmer, Wallace Reed, Mark Powell. Additional members of preliminary team-William Feuerer, Allen P. Steck. Assistants at base-Cookie Calderwood, Ellen Searby, Beverley Woolsey.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Ed, super info and pics !!!!!!!!!!!!
I don't know if you read my post, but this is exactly WHY I am humbled and speechless when I read Threads like this. Why one does not even feel qualified to put down a sentence in a post. These people were simply incredible. Vision and the Will to carry it off. Awesome doesn't really describe....
What could you compare it to today, I really can't think of anything that comes close. Well, then there is crazy captain chaos and his skiing the big peaks...now that's out there. Say howdy and powdered delight be with you, c.c.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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from page 361 of the 1961 American Alpine Journal
Other Yosemite Ascents. One of the more remarkable climbs of the year was the second ascend of the sheer 2900-foot high face of El Capitan. (For an account of the first ascent, see A.A.J., 1959, 11:2, pp. 184-189.) This was made in the comparatively short time of 7 1/2 days during the first half of September by Charles Pratt, Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen and Tom Frost. From June 12 to 15 Pratt, Fitschen and Frost made the second ascent of the north face of Half Dome, and Robbins and Dave Rearick made its third ascent later in the summer. In April Frost and Yvon Chouinard made the second ascent of the northeast bowl of Sentinel Rock, a route that had not been done since 1948. Pratt and Chouinard made the third ascent of the northeast face of Middle Cathedral Rock in June, which involved strenuous laybacks interspersed with direct-aid climbing. The same pair made the second ascent of the Powell-Feuerer route on the north buttress of Lower Cathedral Rock in June. Frost and Chouinard made the third ascent in September of the north face of Middle Cathedral Rock. It took them 1 3/4 days and about 80 pitons to climb this 2200-foot wall, which had never been climbed before 1959.
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Double D
climber
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Ed that's just way too cool.
My favorite lines:
"So I continued with whatever “qualified” climbers I could “con” into this rather unpromising venture."
"The Chief Ranger had given us a deadline-to complete the climb by Thanksgiving. I have never understood how this was to have been enforced."
"According to our agreement, nothing was done until after Labor Day except to replace the many borrowed climbing ropes left as fixed line with a newly purchased half-inch manila." (1/2" MANILA...YIKES! Someone should pony up and do a retro ascent with that junk...)
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Ken, just reviewing all the posts. I think WBraun nailed it.
"The spirit of that ascent will remain immortal".
Immortal in Merriam-Webster's "exempt from oblivion". Truly, I think the greatest thought for me is that this Huge piece of Granite was conquered by a ragtag few with brains, vision and their own grand inspiration. No big buck sponsorships, no huge crowds of hangers on. Just the few, the bad and the bold.....
Keep the History coming, please, Ken. You have inspired me to a much greater appreciation and an ability to express it. Lynne
Good Saturday to you Sir !
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androo.daveass
climber
Portland
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I'm assuming that this reunion will take place somewhere in the Valley... the most important thing that hasn't been addressed is when/where to we show up?!?!
Great photos and stories, keep them coming!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Hey, good point androo, here I'm planning on going and I don't even know where I'm going....whoa.
Also, Mr. Chicken Skinner, maybe if you posted some simple ideas for accomdations for those of us who haven't been to the Valley in eons we could generate more enthusiam. Is the Lodge still viable ? Know we could go on line but you the man in the valley. You in the KNOW ! Smiles, lynne
ps, yosemite lodging on line info is not that user friendly.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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I haven't climbed the nose since '82, but if the planets line up right, I might be able to make an 11/8, anniversary ascent.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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anyone have a copy of Climbing 37? on page 28 is the obituary of Bill "Dolt" Feuerer... it would be fitting to scan it and post it here...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Yo, Chicken Skinner give us your info.....and have a great gute nacht ! lrl
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goatboy smellz
climber
colorado
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If the stars align, count me in Ken…it’s been too long since I’ve been back to the Promised Land.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Need to bump this thread, if only to ensure that PTPP gets some good ideas for vertical freight handling. Right down his alley, apparently.
I guess if he wants, Pete can always just say "Harding and them took way longer, and way more gear, than I ever have."
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder (out in the sagebrush)
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I don't know, man, Pete's got a pile of gear. I think he was some kinda boy scout, or whatever Canada has....Be prepared.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Bumping for a hundred. Go Ken go!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Say, where is Ken ? Pro went away for the weekend. He inspired me to go through my library and get reacquainted with the book Yosemite and Its High Sierra by John H. Williams, San Francisco, 1921.
"There is no death; love paid the debt;
Tho' moons may wane and men forget,
The mountain's heart beats on for aye;
Who truly loved us cannot die."
And so I wait, nor gear the tide
That comes so swiftly on to hide
My little light. The mountains glow;
I have their promise, and I know.
Forward to book by John H. Williams.....and tonight I dedicate "Who truly loved us cannot die" to my husband Dan. Know you are having the time of your life buddy...love Lynne
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captain chaos
climber
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Thanks Kenny & Ed... its great to see all of these photos, letters and articles, much of them for the first time. What a great time those guys must have had back then. It makes my day and warms my heart to see all of these priceless historical gems. If you have more and you have the time, I'd love to see them... all the best, Craig
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 01:32pm PT
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I posted these a year or two ago.
Notes from the climb.
Ken
P.S. There is an Argosy article that I thought I had scanned and posted that I can't find. I have two copies and will scan when I can.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 03:01pm PT
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I found it.
Ken
P.S. Sorry it is not sized larger. I will rescan at some point.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Doing a good job Ken
A toast to you.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 03:26pm PT
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A couple random shots.
Ken
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Ken - when you scan the article, see if the scanner has OCR (Optical Character Recognition) software that you can run. This will translate the scanned document into text, which can greatly reduce the presentation size of the document.
This can also be a part of the scanned document (sits "behind" the document) as is done on the American Alpine Club site. I used the OCR'd document (via select text in Adobe reader) to extract the text and put it into the STForum on the two posts above. As OCR software is not perfect, a step of editing the text so supplied is necessary to correct some ambiguities.
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captain chaos
climber
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Cool Kenny... I love it, what a great collection. I'm glad your the one who is taking care of all this, your doing a excellent job... thanks for everything- Craig
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 05:17pm PT
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Craig,
I wish you could see the current exhibit. You would love it!
Ken
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captain chaos
climber
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Kenny... I'm going to do my best to make it to the valley within the next 12 months of so. I'll let you know when so we can connect, it would be great to see you again, (its been awhile) and of course the climbing museum, keep the good work up- Craig
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 05:43pm PT
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A page from the classic Descent Magazine
Ken
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Ken, love all your new posts....especially the hand written notes and the random shots...hope you had a great weekend. lrl
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I hope to make this event, at least for one day.
JL
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Gosh, after reading all this and some other materials it's darn right awful to think that Mr.'s Harding and Feurer won't be able to attend this 50 year reunion.
I'm asking myself, why should I be able to go when the two guys that pulled it off can't be there?
Any techo wizards have ideas on how we can include them in the festivities......or get them there? lrl
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john hansen
climber
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Lynne,
Unfortunatly Harding is no langer with us,, he passed away a few years back.
Dont know about Feureur(sp)?
Ok Ken # 100 is all yours.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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I’m going to snake Ken on this one.
101 is the better position at the top of the page.
Ken, where do you find this stuff?
Keep it coming, I’ll be there for this event!
Mike
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 11:17pm PT
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Largo, I hope you can make it. Mike, thanks for snagging the 100th. YCA has so much stuff it is hard to remember it all. I just received Warrens haulbag today. I am pretty sure it was used on the Wall of the Early Morning Light. It is well worn and bright orange. Further research is neccessary.
I have at least 15 sets of Descent Magazines in mint condition. Only 3 with every set. The latest 1990 edition may be the rarest of all. It is only 4 pages and here they are.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2008 - 12:01am PT
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I've got other issues.
First issue front page:
Back page:
Second issue front page:
Back page:
Ken
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john hansen
climber
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That one of whoever in the "Robbins" out fit....
Too funny,, who is that guy?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2008 - 12:32am PT
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John,
That would be Roger Derryberry.
Ken
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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John Hansen, thank you for gracefully letting me know about W. Harding. Had no idea, have much catching up to do. lrl
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poop*ghost
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Amazing pictures... I love it!
You couldn't pay me to jug el cap on prussics and hemp rope!! Let alone climbing on it.
Standing on the shoulders of giants.
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captain chaos
climber
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What a great thing to wake up too, reading all four pages of the 1990 Descent magazine! thanks Kenny- Warren's sense of humor was, agh... well it was out there. I remember sharing many vino nights with Warren where we all could have benefited by using the drinking leash... God do I ever miss old Batso.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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On the final push they started below the Great Roof and went all the way to the summit.
Height wise that's about 2/3 of the way up, but time wise it's about 1/2 way up (for the time it takes typical teams to make the climb).
I tended to think of the climb as fully sieged, but they really did half of it in a push. Badass.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2008 - 08:58pm PT
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Here is a not so great picture of one of Warren's Bat Tents. Post Nose Route.
Fet, They were getting tired of all the re-supplying and the weather was starting to turn on them. They were very happy to get it done and over with.
Ken
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Pretty excited, Ken, thanks to the "Mr. Nice Guys" from ST, we gals got our reservation today and godspeed we will be there.
Yeah !
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2008 - 11:46pm PT
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Awesome Lynne!
Ken
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Whoaa!!!! That summit triumphant triumvirate photo is so cool! First time I've seen it. Thanks again for bringing all this awesome history to the public.
Are they waving white flags of surrender to the captain?
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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"They were getting tired of all the re-supplying and the weather was starting to turn on them."
And they were also under the threat of the rangers shutting them down if they went to the ground (after Thanksgiving). But up on the side of El Cap nobody was telling Warren what to do!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 10, 2008 - 08:27pm PT
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I recall Warren estimating the number of vertical feet of prussiking but not the final number. Anyone recall the figure?
From Galen's Vertical World of Yosemite.
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john hansen
climber
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Aug 10, 2008 - 11:34pm PT
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Hey Ken,, just wondering,, is Bill Fuerur still alive?
I hope this is not an inappropriate question.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 10, 2008 - 11:49pm PT
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Tragically, The Dolt checked out in the (edit)seventies.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Aug 11, 2008 - 02:04pm PT
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Bill “Dolt” Feuerer killed himself in 1971. Trying to think when I got these from him....'69,'70.
Amazing if he would have been still around and seen the equipment now. Hmmmmm
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2008 - 05:00pm PT
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Nice collection Lostinshanghai. Any chance you could resize that last photo.
Ken
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Aug 11, 2008 - 05:15pm PT
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Ken
Will see if this works. Do not know why other went larger?
Key hole hangers: two are SS coated.
lostinshanghai
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2008 - 07:07pm PT
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Lostinshanghai, I am drooling all over myself.
Ken
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 11, 2008 - 11:27pm PT
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That makes two of us! Any idea what the rest of these shapes look like?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2008 - 12:16am PT
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He was way ahead of his time. I think I have a letter of his and will scan when I can.
Ken
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 12, 2008 - 10:52am PT
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Have to find a West Ridge catalog or Dennis Henneck to solve the Doltchocks mystery. So many ideas, so little time...from the man of a thousand Trademarks!
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Aug 12, 2008 - 01:51pm PT
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Steve
Nice. Would be great to find out.
Do know that he was an engineer for I believe Edwards Air Force Base in Palmdale.
Also heard that he was fed up with the politics of US at the time and left.
Can see where the ideas came from.
You were right Ken, a man ahead of his time.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 12, 2008 - 09:26pm PT
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I talked with Steve Roper this afternoon looking for some chronological Nose info and the last sentence in the '59 AAJ states that the amount of vertical prussiking had not been estimated. Memory kink...
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2008 - 01:32pm PT
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I posted this on another thread. It seems like it is appropriate for this one too.
Ken
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Aug 16, 2008 - 10:59pm PT
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just for kicks, who designed this and who is makin cash? I would hope some crag rat is gettin a major part.
i have not read much of the previous talk so forgive me if i skipped the key discussion.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 17, 2008 - 01:38am PT
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Interviewed Frank Tarver for an hour and a half today. He was involved in the FA of the North Buttress of Middle with Warren, Craig Holden and John Whitmer in a three day effort in May 1954.
Later that year in July, Frank, Warren and Bob Swift did the second ascent of Salathe and Nelson's Lost Arrow Chimney. On the infamous Safety Valve, Warren climbed right by several FA bolts that were cleaned by the second to reuse the hangers higher up on the route. Frank was the last one up and noticed the chopped bolts.
Two years before he passed away, Warren returned one of the three original Stovelegs to Frank who originally found them in the Berkeley dump and had them made into pitons. Frank has generously donated this famous piton to the YCA along with a Salathe ring angle from the Lost Arrow Chimney.
The Tarver Stoveleg measures 2 1/2" X 8 3/4."
A master blacksmith, Salathe bettered the ring angle design in several ways on this flat-spined, solid eye version. The paint was certainly applied long after it became briefly fixed.
Things of historic beauty that you will soon be able to check out yourself if you make the Nose event. Many thanks to Frank for his generousity and support. It was a pleasure spending the afternoon with him.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2008 - 09:15pm PT
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Aug 22, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
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beautiful, Ken.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2008 - 09:35pm PT
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Yeah, it sure is Ray. I wish I had that one. All I have is a photo. May turn up some day.
Ken
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 22, 2008 - 09:37pm PT
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beautiful colors on the old pro....
Is that a t-shirt for the 50th Nose Reunion ? If so where can you get one ?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2008 - 09:51pm PT
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Lynne, the shirts are being sold in the Valley at DNC stores. There are 2 colors and they are numbered with 5,000 made. YCA gets a share of the proceeds.
Ken
P.S. Fattrad, I need to figure out catering for the event. You have any connections?
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Ouch!
climber
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Aug 22, 2008 - 10:27pm PT
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NOSE REUNION
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
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Nice one Ouch.
Warrens hammer. Made from a modified center punch. The handle broke sending the head to the ground. You can see the ding in the head. A new handle was made and the hammer sent back up.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2008 - 08:54pm PT
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See a resemblance?
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2008 - 05:02pm PT
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Bump!
Ken
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 24, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
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Say, can anyone help me out....
I'd like to get a couple of the nose reunion t-shirts for some friends. What is a Yosemite DNC store ? Thanks, Lynne
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2008 - 05:43pm PT
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Lynne,
Send me an email with sizes you want and I can pick them up for you.
Ken
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 24, 2008 - 05:53pm PT
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Yosemite DNC = Delaware North Corporation = DNC Parks & Resorts at Yosemite. DNC holds the concession for most commercial services in the Valley, through its subsidiary.
It's a very large corporation, in the field of resort and hospitality management. http://www.delawarenorth.com/ Somewhere they refer to Yosemite as one of their "properties", which is rather amusing.
DNC puts on the big party at the end of the FaceLift, and supports it in other ways.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2008 - 05:56pm PT
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 24, 2008 - 06:00pm PT
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Whoa....Now THERE's a Picture !!!!
Thanks Ken and Anders !!!!
I will email sizes .... as usual you all are the BEST! Lynne
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2008 - 07:06pm PT
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Anyone have contact info for Ellen?
Looks like someone brought them all clean underwear. Very thoughtful.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2008 - 08:06pm PT
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Jeff, Before the slideshow at the Theater, I thought it would be nice to have an informal gathering at the East Auditorium with food and beverages. I already have beer and wine sponsored. Should we have a real meal or hors D'oeuvre s? What do people think?
Ken
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 24, 2008 - 08:13pm PT
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Heavy...meaning real food.....easily eaten appetizers are great.
Don't need to mess around with alot of cutlery etc. plus people can continue to mingle.
Key: Good variety of appetizers
Lots of them so no one goes hungry
But hey, I think we need to hear from Au Natural, ze chef.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
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Not from the first ascent but very cool anyway. Just scored this on Ebay. Thanks to Walleye for the heads up.
Here is the text that goes to it.
Ken
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 29, 2008 - 11:54pm PT
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Awesome pants!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Aug 30, 2008 - 12:00am PT
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I was thinking the same thing...a little lower and gang banger..hehe..styles are cyclic.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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important news
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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bump
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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bump
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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You know, WI, when you multi-bump a thread, you can always go back and delete the earlier bumps, leaving only the most recent. Saves thread clutter.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2008 - 01:23am PT
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Hi Steve,
That is the first thing I have ever bought off of EBay. Walleye told me about it and I made a bid and got it.I had forgotten all about the bidand was surprised to get it because I did not pay attention. Less than 13 dollars with shipping. I mentioned it to Tom and he had forgotten about it but was pleased it had been found. Recently received Tom's Annapurna boots to go with ice axe and crampons. Score!
Ken
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jstan
climber
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Well, now I have the proof! Tom Frost is just a young'un.
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Coolest thread, ever. Thanks guys.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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And Royal looks a bit inebriated by the sip. . .
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 21, 2008 - 12:19pm PT
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Lauria Doltbump?!?
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10b4me
climber
the gray bands
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Sep 28, 2008 - 11:52pm PT
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bump
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sibylle
Trad climber
On the road again!
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Sep 29, 2008 - 09:48am PT
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I hope to be there. Did you arrange any campsites, or are we on our own for camping? (I'm sure there'll be space; thought it would be nice to camp near everyone.)
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tooth
Mountain climber
B.C.
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Sep 30, 2008 - 08:10am PT
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bump
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Gene
climber
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http://www.mcclatchydc.com/257/story/53336.html
House honors first climbers to scale El Capitan
By Michael Doyle | McClatchy Newspapers
WASHINGTON -- Lawmakers who blanched at a $700 billion financial rescue package have found time to honor the brave men who climbed Yosemite National Park's El Capitan peak a half-century ago.
Kicking off a round of commemorations, the House this week approved a resolution saluting three climbers who were the first to scale North America's tallest free-standing granite monolith. The resolution sets the stage for a 50th anniversary ceremony to be held in Yosemite next month.
"It's a landmark," Rep. George Radanovich, R-Mariposa, said Wednesday of the climb. "It was a really big deal."
The House resolution honors Wayne Merry, Fresno resident George Whitmore and Warren J. Harding, who took 47 days in 1957 and 1958 to climb El Capitan's so-called "Nose Route." Theirs was a full-blown siege, complete with sizable support crew, fixed ropes and established camps along the vertical way.
Today, climbers can race up the same route in two or three days. Some daredevils have done it in one; in July, two climbers did the Nose Route in two hours and 43 minutes.
The House resolution, too, moved speedily through what can be an obstacle-ridden path. Radanovich's office prepared the resolution at the behest of the National Park Service. The park service is now getting ready for its own commemoration of the event, scheduled for Nov. 8.
That was the date, 50 years ago, that the three-man climbing team made their final push toward the El Capitan summit.
"What they did 50 years ago is really significant in the history of the park," park spokesman Scott Gediman said, adding that "climbing really turned into a sport here in Yosemite."
The Nov. 8 event in Yosemite Valley will include auditorium presentations by Whitmore and Merry. Separately, Gediman noted, park officials are working with El Portal resident Ken Yager on the possibility of establishing a permanent rock climbing museum that would display some of the gear used in the park.
Radanovich, whose congressional district includes Yosemite, began soliciting congressional co-sponsors via e-mail Sept. 19. Three days later, with seven House co-sponsors signing on, it was formally introduced.
By Monday, even as most House members were consumed with the pending $700 billion bailout package, the Yosemite resolution was partnered up with a number of other non-controversial measures. These ranged from a resolution honoring the Coast Guard to a measure naming some Rappahannock River rapids after retiring Republican Virginia Sen. John Warner.
"Everyone wants to get their suspension items on the floor before Congress adjourns," Radanovich's press secretary, Spencer Pederson, said Wednesday.
The assorted resolutions zipped through the House by voice vote in the tumultuous aftermath of lawmakers rejecting the $700 billion financial bailout. The lighthearted mood that often accompanies the consideration of non-controversial, feel-good measures was noticeably absent. The resolution was passed literally in a matter of seconds, with no one -- including Radanovich -- taking time to speak about it.
By contrast, several San Joaquin Valley lawmakers took to the House floor several months ago to rave about the championship Fresno State Bulldogs baseball team as the House approved a similar slap-on-the-back resolution.
Harding, known as a hard-living soul, went on to author an entertaining memoir titled "Downward Bound" and passed away in February 2002. Merry went on to head the Yosemite Mountaineering School. Whitmore has been active in the local Sierra Club chapter, which has had a hot-and-cold relationship with Yosemite park management.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2008 - 06:07pm PT
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Darn, I had hoped to surprise them at the reunion.
Ken
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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I sent a congratulatory e-mail to Wayne and George three days after the fact.
Wayne shot back that he had never heard of it.
How far off the grid are you anyway, Wayne?
Buzz
Can't wait for the 7-9 November.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2008 - 11:43am PT
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Roger,
I helped with the wording and had a little bit of a hand in the Resolution and had hoped to keep it a secret until the reunion. I did not let Wayne or the others know. I should have known it would have been in the papers all over the country.
Ken
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Thanks for getting it done, Ken. I think it is very cool that the House commemorated the first ascent of the Nose. (And it certainly provides me with good cover as I have rearranged my calendar to attend the reunion.)
My guess is that Wayne and George will be embarrassed by it, but they don't get to vote. And we can tease them. Got any red carpet?
Regarding keeping it secret for a month, I assume that you were counting on the normal C-span cameras being off during the vote? Or something? So how far off the grid are you? Heehe.
Best, Roger
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 21, 2008 - 03:43pm PT
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Bump. Less than three weeks to go.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 21, 2008 - 04:26pm PT
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Dogs' trust with us is absolute, it's one of the reasons we can form such amazing bonds with them.
Once upon a time, we ( my ex, myself, and Alobar ( a 65 pd Collie/retriever)got rained out in a ditch near Flag, it's the one you cross to go to the pit,though this was before we realized the potential of that limestone. We were checking out some Toula beta on obscure basalt.
Anyway, we had to scramble out in a full on monsoon downpour. Slippery basalt on a dry day. I was spotting Michele, who was not in her element(!) and we got to a point where Al couldn't follow ( this was a big dog who made his own way to the Labyrinth in the supes and has actually climbed into treehouses,) it was a desperate situation.
I'm spotting Mich, who really could fall, and Al can't follow. I Grabbed him and clutched him to my chest, he put his front legs over my shoulders and his total trust in me. With one hand pushing Michele's butt above me and one arm dealing with slippery wet 5.7 moves we pulled, all of us, together to the top. Where we all topped out into a pounding rain pine needle slip mass of slopping pine needles. Two of us with fogged glasses, hyperventilating, and one, whose coat looked like that of a drowned rat, but jumping and yarfing, in the deluge, the Joy de vie we all felt.
That human/dog bond is an amazing thing!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 21, 2008 - 04:35pm PT
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Umm, rhodo, hopefully both the Nose/50th celebrations and the films in El Portal will go well. It does seem that the timing of the films might have been a bit better. The Nose event can only be on the 8th, for obvious reasons. It has involved an enormous amount of planning and effort, and will be a unique event. Hopefully it will have an overflow crowd, and there will be enough climbers and others in and near the Valley to not only fill it, but also the event in El Portal. But the Nose/50th event seems a much higher priority to me.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2008 - 12:03am PT
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It is coming up soon! I have been busy with preparations. We will have a special cancellation stamp, a t-shirt, and a beautiful brochure available for purchase. All proceeds will benefit YCA and I hope it will for years to come because I have printed extras.
Ken
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 23, 2008 - 11:45am PT
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The post office generously allows the public to commemorate special events with a pictorial cancellation stamp that is used in addition to the the normal cancellation stamp. This pc stamp is available for one month beginning with the November 8, 2008 event date and is only available from the main Yosemite post office in the Valley. During the use period, interested parties may present envelopes directly to the postmaster for stamp application or via a request by mail with the item to be pictorially stamped.
We are also providing commemorative tee shirts for sale that feature a reproduction of the first national park system commemorative postage stamp of El Capitan issued in 1934 on the front and the pictorial cancellation artwork on the back! Don't miss the opportunity to snag such a cool shirt!
We are very excited about the event and so is Bill Carroll of Yosemite post office who tipped me off about the pictorial cancellation in the first place. Many thanks Bill!
And if that were not enough, a postage stamp featuring a classic Al Steck photo of Batso in action on the Nose is also available! Warren has hit the big time and we couldn't be more stoked to hold these guys high for all the world to appreciate and admire! Come join us for this special event and help support the YCA and our work!
I will leave the matter of the stunning 14" X 20" full color trifold event brochure for another post.......
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10b4me
climber
the gray bands
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Oct 24, 2008 - 12:09am PT
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cannot wait
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 24, 2008 - 12:23am PT
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I can't wait either, even though I'll only experience it vicariously.
But the poster just above me will have to wait - there'll be 10 B4 him.
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Oct 24, 2008 - 01:46am PT
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Big Bump for this Night!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 24, 2008 - 02:16am PT
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At least one of the original bolts from the FA is probably still in place:
Not everything got repaved during the various reboltings.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2008 - 12:42am PT
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Clint, Nice photo of a Dolt hanger. Way ahead of it's time, I am surprised that that design has not been explored further. Truly a collector's item.
Ken
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Oct 25, 2008 - 01:22am PT
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Awesome, Bala Gen!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 25, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
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The design lives on in the Space Station! Dolt's design was meant to allow a single bolt to serve as a anchor connecting fixed lines down low on the Nose while Bill was still involved in the project. Locking carabiners were not in common use back in 1957 and this hanger allowed for some redundancy in connecting the extensive fixed lines used on the FA.
This 1934 design is also still in use and will grace the front of the commemorative Nose reunion tee shirt.
Get em' while you can!
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10b4me
climber
the gray bands
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Oct 25, 2008 - 09:16pm PT
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a question for Ken.
just curious as to what time the ceremony will begin?
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Oct 29, 2008 - 01:14pm PT
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NEXT WEEKEND!
From http://yosemiteclimbing.org/
50th Anniversary of the First Ascent of The Nose
1st ascent of El Capitan, The Nose
An Affair to Remember
YCA is proud and honored to announce the *50th Anniversary* of the First Ascent of *the Nose*. In great appreciation and respect for the first ascent team and this world class route there will be a celebration in Yosemite Valley the weekend of *November 7th-9th*. Many of the people involved with the route, including not only the final ascent team but also those that were there throughout the effort, will be present for a weekend of slideshows, interviews, and stories.
The events are as follow:
*Saturday, November 8th* 1pm - 4pm
East Auditorium
An informal gathering with food and drink.
*Saturday, November 8th*
*7:30pm - until
East Auditorium
Slideshow
*Sunday, November 9th*
*12pm - 2pm*
*Ahwahnee Hotel*
Open to public meet and greet, media event.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you are here for this event don’t forget to check out our exhibit in the Yosemite Museum (open everyday 10:00 – 4:00). Granite Frontiers: A Century of Yosemite Climbing will be up through November 9th. The exhibit has been the most popular exhibit shown in Yosemite and it will travel to other venues next year.
During all this we are receiving more donated artifacts and trying to keep up on the cataloging. It is a lot of work and we appreciate your donations. Without them it would not be possible. If you haven’t made a contribution lately, please consider a donation. We are a tax-exempt organization.
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Oct 29, 2008 - 01:27pm PT
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Lynne!
You better not flake on me! :) :) :) This is the stuff that makes this life worth living!
AF
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Oct 29, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
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Ken,
Do we need to / can we pre order shirts?
Jay
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 29, 2008 - 02:45pm PT
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Once again, I have to work. Fall is busy season, and this year is worse. I will have missed each and every one of the YCA events. And the slideshow in SR. And spring isn't looking too great, either.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Oct 29, 2008 - 02:56pm PT
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Anastasia, what do you mean. I thought you phoned me weeks ago to say you couldn't make it ???????????? Lynnie
Not only are we not on the same page, but I think we're in different books. : ))
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Oct 29, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
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Oh Lynne!
"Laughing..." Sometimes I even confuse myself. :) Call me so we can figure it out and... If "we" can't, well... YOU still need to go! I do love ya'...
Big hugs and kisses,
Anastasia
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 29, 2008 - 03:57pm PT
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Given the age of many of the particpants, public displays of confusion should be limited.
Buzz
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Oct 29, 2008 - 04:30pm PT
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Touche' !
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Oct 29, 2008 - 10:53pm PT
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I hear through the grapevine that this is going to be a Great Event ! So happy cause looks like I'll be there, weather and life permitting of course.
I know I'll be the only one asking this question cause it's just a Lynne thing, but what to wear to ze function ... Jeans, Jacket ? Anyone please send out a holler ...Peace and Joy on a spectacular Wednesday night in (Still Very) Sun Diego.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 12:06am PT
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Lynne, I am glad you can make it and I look forward to meeting Anastasia. I would wear what makes you comfortable.
I do think this event is going to be huge and am worried about capacity in the East Auditorium (get there early). I just had an idea that maybe after the Ahwahnee portion on Sunday that a group picture with the players in front of attendees might be in order at El Cap Meadow.
What do you all think? I can run it by the crew.
Ken
P.S. The more I think about it, the better it sounds.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
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Oct 30, 2008 - 12:14am PT
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Well Ken, hope the Ana gal is in the same book and on the same page now... (we did actually talk).
"Wear whatever makes you comfortable"....hmmmm....LOL, spoken like a true guy, better put Katie on the net. : )))
Big Smiles, Lynnie
EDIT: Ken, of course as usual Super Job....! Meadow Pic and all your ideas are Great !
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Double D
climber
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Oct 30, 2008 - 12:14am PT
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I'm sooo bummed that Tioga is most likely to close this weekend! I was actually planning on carving out the time but... just can't see driving all the way around. )-;
Hope everyone has a great time... and posts some photos.
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Oct 30, 2008 - 12:19am PT
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Double D...
Find a driving partner and take the road around! You must come! Please... (You can do it!) Super please! Things like this only come once in "FIFTY years!!!" It would be worth the effort!
:) AF
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Oct 30, 2008 - 12:24am PT
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Double D, never know, weather could change. Was really looking forward to meeting you and yours in the flesh. Thanks for all your help, hope, prayers and God Bless You Always. Lynnie
He's coming again Soon. Want to make a difference for all the ones we love. Which is All the Peeps we know real or ehternet. Smiles, Lynne
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Oct 30, 2008 - 12:28am PT
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Well that is a holy coincidence and bizarre. DD I had NO idea A. was posting as I was. Whadya know ? Lynne
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2008 - 12:29am PT
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Dave,
I agree with Anastasia, you should try. Aren't you traveling from a state or two over? If so, the pass shouldn't make too much of a difference. It would be great to see you again.
P.S. You are right Lynne. You need better advice. I merely meant, by all means dress up if you want to. Heck, I own a suit and have worn it twice now in two years and could possibly be convinced to wear it again. It is fun to dress up. Perhaps the Ahwahnee would be a good time.
Ken
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 30, 2008 - 12:38am PT
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"Nose Reunion November 8, 2008"
So what's supposed to happen at this thing.
Are these guys going to beat Hans and Yuji up for making a mockery of the El Capitan. Ok maybe not.
Or they're going to break their speed record, those old guys still have arms and legs ya know.
I talked to this guy who's in the Russian Gulag eating gruel and he said WTF is a Nose Reunion.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Oct 30, 2008 - 12:46am PT
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Thanks Ken, flexibility is Grate !
WernerB. You are too hilarious.....Are you and Merry making an appearance ? (Maybe you could lend me a SAR outfit....hehehe sorry, just being silly...had a crazy day today.) Lynne enjoying the life.
Edit: But kinda serious about the SAR outfit. Size small. Then no worries. : D
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Double D
climber
|
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Oct 30, 2008 - 02:40pm PT
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Ken... it's the difference between 7.5 hours and about 15 OR the hassles of flying, renting, driving etc. (still would be about 10 hours with everything...) and keep in mind that I would be trying to accomplish this in a four day period...not enough time to just kick it in the vally the way I'd like to.
Please pray that Tioga doesn't close and then I stand a chance. Of course talking the wife into camping again...she's sorta got used to B&B's and migrated away from the camping thing (actually it was the bears popping open car doors all night in upper pines years ago on memorial day weekend when they didn't have the bear boxes out yet!).
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 30, 2008 - 03:12pm PT
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I am flying into San Francisco on Friday, driving to the Valley that afternoon, staying at the Valley View in El Portal, returning to SF on Sunday evening, and flying home on Monday.
Lots of hassle, time and money.
But, I cannot miss the chance to see old friends all in the same room again.
I hope to see you.
Best, Roger
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Oct 30, 2008 - 04:52pm PT
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T-9 days
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Oct 30, 2008 - 06:00pm PT
|
Crossing my fingers that I will see all of you there!
AF
|
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2008 - 07:29pm PT
|
It has been awhile, so I thought I should let folks know what to expect.
See you all soon.
|
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2008 - 08:06pm PT
|
What the heck are you crossing your fingers for ? We discussed this, right ? We are going right. Same book, same page, ....getting a little strict with this young whipper snapper, sorry. I'm already packed yo Pepper. See you week from manana. Out. Lynnie
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Double D
climber
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2008 - 11:04pm PT
|
Fet...that's playing dirty pool and totally not fair! )-;
So Roger, you're an avid biker now??? Sweet pic.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2008 - 11:06pm PT
|
Wendy and I are coming.
Just to see Roger's bike.
Zander
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2008 - 11:16pm PT
|
RB, Great pic. Just noticed at the bottom of the Cuprinol Can it has a hand written Red Wine....Wonder if its Red Mountain....Every High Schoolers demise BITD. Peace, Joy, Lynne
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
Breedlove ... see you there!
|
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
Hi Don,
Wow, what a blast from the past this is going to be. You bringing any of your SoCal cohorts?
See you there. Peter Haan and are traveling together from SF.
I will bring a few extra gallons of my best 'preserver.'
Roger
|
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
|
|
T-6 days.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
|
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Friday: Sunny, with a high near 66.
Friday Night: Mostly clear, with a low around 40.
Saturday: A slight chance of showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 66.
Saturday Night: A slight chance of showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 34.
Sunday: A slight chance of showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 60.
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luggi
Trad climber
atwater california
|
|
Ken...I just posted a request for info on Saturday the 8th and found your thread. Fantastic stuff!! Will Robbins be there? The museum exhibit is really well done.
ML
|
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
|
Thank you Luggi,
Robbins will be there along with other dignitaries.
Ken
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
Bump for the Dolt Cart story?
|
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2008 - 12:00am PT
|
Hi,
This is approaching quickly and I am looking forward to it. There is going to be a lot of people there. Many I haven't seen in a while and many I am looking forward to meeting. Going to be a blast.
We will have, as has been mentioned before, a T-shirt, a brochure with ample room for signatures and a special cancellation stamp. During the event we will offer a package of all 3 for a $50.00 donation. This is priced for the event only. YCA has put out well over $10,000 to make this thing happen.
If you can't be there, email me before the event if you are interested and I will put a package aside for you at that price if you are willing to pay postage. I will need your T-shirt size.
After the event they will be available via our website as supplies last.
Thank you,
Ken
|
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
|
|
Lynne!
I am getting ready... I am! I just need to... (Shoving a large box aside and reaching through the cobwebs) ...grab myself and get a move on. (Pulling a dark haired form from the corner and shaking it's dust off.)
See you soon!
AF
|
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
I'd like to order one of them there package thingies, and hope that a whole bunch of you lurkers do also. Seeing as it looks like I can't be there in person. Ken, should we order and pay on-line, or order by e-mail and pay on-line, or?
Plus I'd like to bump this thread. My goal for today is to keep it on the front page.
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luggi
Trad climber
atwater california
|
|
bump for Ken and the rest
|
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
Bump for the Event !
Safe and Fun Travels for all. See ya there. Peace and Joy. Lynne
|
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
Ok, one more bumpe' cause I agree this needs to stay on front page.
Ken, for all your hard work in putting this together the San Diego contingent is bringing you a dancing, singing Chicken. Your family will love it. Smiles, Lynne
|
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jiimmy
Boulder climber
san diego
|
|
For the sake of all climbers, check your math. Should I drive 8 hours??? Well just maybe.
|
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2008 - 01:25am PT
|
If you check your math 8 hours out of 50 years is nothing. Hope to see you Jiimmy and Double D.
Ken
|
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
jiimmy, if you don't you will be doing yourself a disservice.
What's a few hours in your life ? Especially when you can be at such an incredible event. However, Ken said it was going to be way more attended than he thought...so if you come you may bump me out of my seat....stay home.
Kidding, get there...Lynnie
ps. well, if Ken and Double D know you and you have a resume you could drive with us...leaving Friday..
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tinker b
climber
your local park
|
|
i wish i was there...another great job ken, send my love your family.
jo-lynne
|
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bob
climber
|
|
Get out Jo-Lynne, you do this now? When you coming back?
Bob Jensen
|
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sibylle
Trad climber
On the road again!
|
|
I'm driving up to the Valley tomorrow and am so excited to see everyone!
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|
tinker b
climber
your local park
|
|
oh bobby j. i wish i knew...my mom is still on her back, although getting better...i haven't climbed since august. some a-holes stole my climbing shoes (my boreal lazers!!!)out of my dad's car i had parked in front of the jones' in vermont, not that that would stop me from climbing barefoot, it is the fact that i have to wipe my mom's heiny when she poops...i heard you had a lady friend woo hoo...
and a bump for ken
y no tengo hog legs
|
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Double D
climber
|
|
Yahoo!!! I can't beleive it but I'm actually going to get to go!!! Now who wants to go climbing on Sunday or 1st thing Monday (I'm thinking Reeds, Outer limits or something)?
|
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GLee
Trad climber
Missoula
|
|
I will be flying into Fresno Yosemite Airport with Alaska Airlines arriving Thursday 11/07 at 10:15 pm. Is there anyone else flying in, or driving thru at that time or early Friday?
Greg
|
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
Bumping this thread cause the event is now only a few days away. Many will be traveling Friday and want to again wish all safe and fun journeys.
Then, I saw that DoubleD got his wish to attend. Super Dude!
: ))
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
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|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
|
I am predicting a huge turnout. It is going to be fun to see everyone again and I am psyched that it is working out for most of you to make it. For those of you that can't I will be thinking of you and know that you are there in spirit. T-shirts are here and they look great, the cancellation stamp is going well, and the brochures look fabulous! I am driving to the big city (Fresno) tomorrow to pick up supplies and have all day Friday to put it all together.
See you soon,
Ken
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tinker b
climber
your local park
|
|
bump...have fun out there
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
Is the East Auditorium outside or inside? I have to pack differently, depending on the answer.
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CF
climber
|
|
Hi Roger,
Saturday afternoon the event will be inside at the EA, just hope there is enough room.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
Thanks Chris, I am only tough on ST and with PhotoShop. And I look really funny in my O-ri-gi-nal down duvet, baby-poop brown pile jacket, and blue cagoule. We'll come early.
Maybe we'll see you tomorrow evening. Best, Roger
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Perhaps a whole bunch of you should wear Blue Cagoules. Now that would be worth a picture!
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|
Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
I wanna go! What time does it begin?
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Cicely, Alaska
|
|
This duffer is looking forward to being there.... I'm super excited. 10b4me will be with me and so will a few others I managed to round up from SoCal.
I've not ever camped in the campgrounds in November, but the only one with space available a couple of weeks ago was Upper Pines and that was pretty full too. Wonder if all these folks are coming to the reunion?
Fletch
|
|
Fletcher
Trad climber
Cicely, Alaska
|
|
A few weeks back 10b4me and I were in Bishop and decided to go check out the Warren Harding memorial at Mill Creek Station. We're milling about like a couple of yahoos admiring the "devilish" statue of Warren along with the granite boulders and obelisk that are part of it, when a woman (I think she was Mary Lou?) came over and said, "would you like to see the "museum"?" We didn't know there was one but of course we said "Yes!"
She opened up the place and were treated to many great photos of Warren, some of his contraptions and gear and many letters both to and from him. Some of his return addresses simply read "El Capitan, Wall of Early Morning Light." Eventually, Roger Derryberry moseyed over (I think he was having a nap!) and gave us a mini-tour of the place. It was really nice prelude to the reunion.
Oh, and the monument to Warren: two granite boulders with a granite obelisk in-between... As Roger told us, it was said that "Robbins had granite balls, but Warren had the higher spire." !!!! Very much in the Batso spirit.
Fletch
|
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
Fletcher, I am also SUPER EXCITED as I get the car ready for the travel gig tomorrow. A Western YeeeeeHawwww from So Cal. It will be fun to meet more new ST'ers this weekend. Lynnie
Edit: Mighty Hiker, what is a Cagoules ?
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
Sorry Ed, I could have looked it up on the internet. Thought it was some kinda special climbing code word. Thanks for the info.
Lynne
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
Cagoule is pretty pedestrian, Mighty would have you search for "Blue Cagoule" which is a climber thing...
look here Cult of the Blue Cagoule
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luggi
Trad climber
atwater california
|
|
Ken very nice write in the mod bee today...good work!!
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
|
|
Hey Folks,
I'll be down there tonight! Now I wish all of you a safe trip! Plus for those who can't make it... Besides knowing the obvious which is that I'll be missing you, I wish all of you a great weekend doing something incredible.
Smiles,
Anastasia Frangos
|
|
Texplorer
Trad climber
Reno
|
|
Anyone want to carpool from Reno? I'm headed out probably tomorrow morning?
|
|
dougs510
Social climber
down south
|
|
Coolest thread I've ever seen on ST... You guys have a BLAST! Wish I were there!
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|
10b4me
climber
the gray bands
|
|
I see that Glen Denny is giving a slideshow in Bishop tonight. Will he make it to the reunion tomorrow?
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|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
hey there... say, BUMP... say, let us folks here, hear how it all goes... :)
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
See Ya'll this afternoon!
|
|
Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
|
|
I was at the Glen Denny show last night and he said that he was going to make the long trip around to Yosemite , now that the Tioga Pass is closed. Dedicated!
I wish i could make the 6 hr plus drive. Looks to be a huge diverse crowd.
Someone bring a boom box. Its not really a Yca event until the Chicken Skinner does the chicken dance.
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
|
|
Ok, we who aren't there want to know:
What the heck is going on there!
Stories and pix Please..
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Have a look at the YCA website - someone has been posting a few photos and short reports, between events. Which, given how busy everyone must be, is probably all we're going to get until Sunday evening.
http://www.yosemiteclimbing.org/
There's photos from this morning and afternoon. The remaining schedule is:
*Saturday, November 8th*
*7:30pm - until
East Auditorium
Slideshow
*Sunday, November 9th*
*12pm - 2pm*
*Ahwahnee Hotel*
Open to public meet and greet, media event.
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
|
|
Thanks MH, guess we'll have to wait,
for the full tr, looks like a good one!
Is there drink'n and dance'n yet?
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
Bump for reports?
The poem was nice...
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|
WBraun
climber
|
|
My photo is just a preview. The real good ones will most likely be shown at later time by the real photographers that were there.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 12:55am PT
|
That's a great shot - Ed really stands out, and is that Mike front and left?
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|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 02:43am PT
|
I'm exhausted...
this is the first of a whole lot of images that I shot this weekend, which included a Friday adventure... two rolls of film to process, but this is the first digital "rushes" from the reunion.
Saturday morning at the Camp 4 kiosk could be a Sheridan Anderson cartoon..
.
After eating breakfast with cleo, Phil_B and many helpers they went off for work while I wandered out to my car. My attention is drawn to a shout "Ed Hartouni" coming from these gentlemen
who came by to tour Camp 4. They hadn't visited in quite some time. They are Roger Breedlove and Peter Haan. We went walking around sight-seeing, including a trip to the YCA's climbing exhibit. Of course we were headed for the first event of the reunion, which was the get together in the East Auditorium, here Ken Yager is introducing, left-to-right, Al Steck, Mark Powell, George Whitmore, Ken, Rich Calderwood, Wally Reed and Wayne Merry.
This went on for quite sometime, we wandered off for a dinner and then returned for the slide show in a rather packed East Auditorium
presided over by various spirits
during which much history was recounted from the assembled participants, l2r: Mark Powell, Wally Reed, George Whitmore, Allen Steck, Ellen Searby, Rich Calderwood, Wayne Merry
after viewing a biographical video of Warren Harding. Then Wayne Merry launched into his slide show, which much help from the pannel
The show was marvelous, we left in a light rain which persisted through the night, sometimes heavier. This washed out the possibility of climbing this morning. The mists were the remains, with sun and blue skies early
that gave way to increasing clouds and gray skies.
The Ahwahnee event was rather interesting, but my images need to be developed... shot on classical black-and-white film. That broke up at 2pm and the party left for El Cap meadow, in toto.
Slight rain at the beginning, getting better later, it's certainly late autumn in the Valley now
Katie Lambert
Here is a picture of a boy and his route (Roger Breedlove with Central Pillar of Frenzy over his right shoulder)
grand dames of climbing
Mimi in the background, Ellen Searby in the middle, and Cindy Merry
Tom Rohrer, the "Mad Bolter" is quite the guy!
The meeting of very close climbing partners, after many years
Roger Breedlove, Werner Braun, Merry Braun, Ellie Hawkins, Jim Pettigrew
Steve Schneider, Steve Grossman, Rick Sylvester
Gathered to celebrate the 50th anniversary of a climb that changed climbing in view of that route
and remembering other climbs born from that one
Roger Breedlove, Peter Haan, and Ellie Hawkins
and the climbing scene from that long ago time
Joyce McKim and Don Lauria
Beryl Knauth and ?
even the photogs were notable!
Chris Falkenstein
and a great idea to get the whole crowd in a shot
SuperTaco was well represented
Werner Braun and Lynne Leichtfuss
the next generation hatched plots
Jesse McGahey and friends (names?)
and the sun set as it has done for four and a half billion years, the last few tens of thousands on this stoney face
which will be here long after we all are gone.
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|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 08:08am PT
|
Great shots, Ed. I'll be looking forward to
more of them if you post them.
Thanks!
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 12:32pm PT
|
Great pics for a historic event.
JL
|
|
diggler
Trad climber
Frisco, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 01:28pm PT
|
Thanks to all the presenters, & many thanks, Ken, for putting this together. Really enjoyed it!
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
|
Great photos, Ed!
|
|
Anastasia
climber
Not here
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
|
I give special thanks to Lynne for brining me along. I highly recommend her company, she is one of the best traveling companions I have EVER had.
Plus... Thanks everyone for such a great time! Especially thanks for those who put up with my excitement! I will post pictures later... I just came home and need a little time to digest all that has happened.
Love,
AF
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 09:37pm PT
|
Hey, Super Taco Friends !
Monday night, 6:10 pm, just arrived su casa from the 50th Nose Reunion in Yosemite Valley of the Wow !
What an Incredible Event! Ken and Family with their awesome staff pulled off organizing an event that was seriously spectacular.
Their kiddos worked hard Saturday night providing H20 for the crowds, hehehe....little inside joke, you had to be there. Ken, you created a Happening that no one will ever forget. History was recorded. We so much appreciate what was accomplished.
Pics to Follow. Peace and Big Joy to all...life is so Great when you make time for it. : ))) Lynnie
Will anyone be here for the 100th Nose Reunion? Well, you never know. :D
So, This event needed to happen now and be recorded and Ken and troupes did it. Written and Pictoral History is a HUGE benefit for all us Peeps and the planet at large.
Thanks again Ken for making this Event one that will indeed, make, document and be Yosemite History.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 10:21pm PT
|
Wish i coulda been there.
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 10:39pm PT
|
Gosh darn, missed you Jaybro ! (and your coat of many colors) Smiles, Lynne
Seriously, it was indeed a glorious event !
|
|
Fletcher
Trad climber
Cicely, Alaska
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 10:42pm PT
|
Will anyone be here for the 100th Nose Reunion?
Hey, I was thinking about this very thing, Lynne. I am planning on being there. I'll only be 96 after all. And judging from the fitness and sharpness of the fine folks we were honoring, I think if I keep climbing I'll probably be ok!
Can't wait to see more photos. I'm really glad I came (actually, I'm still here for one more night). Thanks to 10b4me for inspiring me to go.
Truly a fantastic event... inspiring, fear inducing, funny, moving, amazing. It's all about the people in the end. As long as you have the people, you can go anywhere and have a blast... I learned that a long time ago.
Fletch
Live from the Mountain Room Bar... I gotta do work and pay the bills after all! Might as well do that with some MaCallan's to sip!
EDIT: Big, ginormous thanks to Ken Yager who had the great vision to create all of this great stuff!
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Max V02
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 10:44pm PT
|
Hey, the 35th Anniversary of the first NIAD is coming up in a few years. Hint, Hint!
Fletch
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 10:51pm PT
|
Awesome thread!
A fitting tribute to a great climb and a great piece of stone. Wish I'd been there for the event. Nonetheless, thanks for putting it together Ken.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 11:30pm PT
|
Names, please post names!
Lauren and Alton who I know from the Livermore Valley Rock Gym
Rick Cashner and Roger Derryberry
Hans Florine, Kimi, the Fet (Steve?), ?, ?, Greg Lee (red shirt)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 11:30pm PT
|
Start out this game on the right side! who are they?
1. Hans Florine
2. Marianna Florine
3. Larry Arthur
4.
5. Pierce Florine
6. Jeff Cunningham
7. Ken Yeager
8. Heather Baer
9. Schree Yeager
10. Steve Schneider
11. Ruby Reed
12.
13. Kevin Powell
14.
15. Katie Lambert
16. Jesse McGahey
17. Alton?
18.
19. Michael ?
20. George Whitmore
21. Ellie Hawkins
22. Al Steck
23. Rich Calderwood
24. Wayne Merry
25. Wally Reed
26. Ellen Searby
27.
28.
29.
30. Nick Rosen
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37. Rick Cashner
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 11:36pm PT
|
" Will anyone be here for the 100th Nose Reunion?"
I will only be 102, and I have climbed the Nose,
so
I'm In!
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 11:45pm PT
|
Thanks for the photos and stories - hopefully there'll be more, as people trickle homewards.
Ken and crew are probably already planning for the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of the Salathe, in 2011. September 23rd, 2011 to be exact - which just about coincides with the FaceLift that year.
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 11:50pm PT
|
I like #29. His tongue bespeaks an Aussie "Grate" attitude.
super smiles, Lynnie
|
|
Fletcher
Trad climber
Max V02
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
|
In the photo with Rick Cashner, he is speaking with Roger Derryberry.
Roger remembered me and 10b4me visiting Mill Creek Station and our tour of the Warren Harding memorial and "museum" a few weeks back. At the Nose reunion he very graciously gave us each a copy of a new short film he made about Warren's last days called The Last Bivouac." I can't wait to see it. He also gave us a copy of an issue of Descent.
Way to go Roger!
Fletch
|
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Max V02
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
|
Hey Ed,
#19 is not me. The one thing I missed this weekend from this weekend was the group photo. I regret that.
Fletch
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 11:55pm PT
|
oh man, Fletch, I thought I ran into you at the Meadow's shoot! way too many people met this weekend for my poor brain that never was good at remembering names...
|
|
shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
|
hey ed, although i introduced myself to you in el cap meadow on sunday, you seem to have my name wrong. your references to a rick snyder in your pictures, i actually recognize as being me, steve schneider. and then the wife, she actually is heather baer, but don't worry, i can hardly ever get it right either. ciao, shipoopoi
|
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
|
#10 STEVE Schneider (?)
|
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2008 - 12:00am PT
|
hi Steve, yes I remember, but you panic'd me! too many names to keep straight.
So sorry for the missed ID...
I called Kevin Powell, Michael Powell probably an hour after being introduced by Lynne. It is truly embarrassing to me!
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10b4me
climber
the gray bands
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2008 - 12:01am PT
|
Ed, and Lynn, it was nice meeting you in the auditorium on saturday. I also finally got to meet Karl Baba.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2008 - 12:04am PT
|
nice to have met you too, 10b4me (another Steve!)
|
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WBraun
climber
|
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|
Nov 11, 2008 - 12:06am PT
|
I'm real bad with names too.
Who's Steve Schneider ....?
|
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:08am PT
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Steve Braun's brother.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:10am PT
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ed, more names to the face
2 marianna florine
5 pierce florine
6 jeff cunningham(rad videographer)
9 Schree yeager
30 Nick Rosen
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:21am PT
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Also, shout out to 10b4me
AND Mike and Tara ..... told ya once I remembered I would never forget you guys. Tear up Tucson ..:D Mi Casa Yo Casa, Lynne
just call
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Reno
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:56am PT
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6 of the FA team at 50th Anniversery of Ascent
George Whitmore, Allen Steck, Wayne Merry, Wally Reed, Ellen Searby, Rich Calderwood
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Mimi
climber
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:57am PT
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Making this event was wonderful and a fun time was had by all in the midst of so many remarkable climbers.
Steve G getting sigs from some of his heroes.
What an honor to meet these men. Having dinner with Mark Powell and the Reeds was great fun.
Chris Jones is such a fine fellow.
And these characters are too much fun (Haan, Breedlove, Pettigrew, Hartouni). Can't wait to see them again.
I hadn't seen Schneider in years. And meeting Ellie was an honor.
Don Lauria on the left and Rick Sylvester. Hearing Rick talk about those Bond movies was a treat.
This perfect rainbow was over Reed's on the way back to the airport after the Meadow gathering.
Can't wait to see you STers again soon!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 01:02am PT
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Yo, Mimi
Grate to meet you ! Come on by.....Really, Lynnie !
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Mimi
climber
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Nov 11, 2008 - 01:09am PT
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Hey Lynne! It was great meeting you in person even though we didn't get to visit very long. I will surely look you up next time we're in SoCal.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2008 - 12:05pm PT
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Thank you all for coming and making it a wonderful experience.
Ken
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
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Roger Breedlove...It's nice to finally put a (handsome!) face to a name. The rest of yous that I already know, it's fun to see you all out there having fun. Thanks for posting your pictures.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 11, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
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Hi Ken,
Thanks for organizing the reunion. It was great to see the 50's climbers, none of whom I had seen since the early 70s. It was also lots of fun to see old climbing partners.
But there is one burning question: Did Wally Reed really tell us on Saturday night that after he pulled on and broke one of the early hemp ropes, that he climbed up to the broken end on those ‘pitons’ and started prussiking?
I don't know if I want to hear that that is what happened or that I heard it wrong.
Best, Roger
Amendment: So, where were you Melissa? Peter and I were sort of disappointed at the newer, old climbers turnout, not that we ran out of things to say after 35 years.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2008 - 01:51pm PT
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Hi Roger,
That is what he said. That was a part of the story I had not heard before. That sounds terrifying.
It was great to meet you finally.
Ken
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 11, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
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That is (almost) unbelievable. Is Wayne or anyone else still there to confirm it.
Nice to meet you also, Ken
I had a nice chat with Rich Calderwood. It turns out that we both had freed routes on Phantom Pinnacle. He and Mike Borghoff
freed the left side, Regular route, in 1957 at 5.9, and Mike Graham, Jim Bridwell, and I freed the Center Route in 1976, at 5.10d.
We also talked about the psychology of committing to long climbing projects in the midst of real life.
Rich told me that he was very unsure if he wanted to commit to climbing the Nose while his wife (Cookie, I think) was caring for their new born. He agonized over it. Finally, she convinced him to go. But he was not comfortable with it, and it continued to worry him as they climbed in September and October of 1958.
In the November push, he ferried a load up to the upper camps and spent the night but couldn't reconcile himself to his decision to stay. The next morning, without discussing it with his climbing partners, he bolted, leaving all of his remaining gear on the ledge. As he said, "...burning my bridges. I couldn't prussik back up."
As I was listening, I realized that I had had two similar experiences, which I shared with Rich. When I finished graduate school, I was hot to return to climbing and had planned to go the Moose's Tooth to climb with John Lee, my good friend in SF. We had purchased all the gear and supplies we needed, bought the plane tickets and arranged for a drop off. M and I had also had our first daughter six weeks before. We flew back to my parent's house in the Bay Area to visit and I prepared to go climbing.
Finally it hit me. Life had changed. I couldn't just leave my wife and new baby and go off risking my life for some fun. I backed out and paid off the cancellation charges.
I also recounted my experience of backing off my solo of the West Face of the Captain. Things were going fine. I was moving fast and climbing really well. And then I skipped taking a swig of water and a handful of gorp between pitches and got a little lost in the cracks after the big traverse. As I was hauling, the bongs I had tied to the underside of the bag got snagged and busted loose, clanging to the bottom of the face. I didn't need them to finish, but within a few seconds, I decided to go down and just started reversing everything. It took most of two days to get off.
Rich had been listening intently. Then he leaned in and told me that when he had ferried up that last load, he had passed all the goodies to the other climbers and was left with a tall can of juice. He pantomined poking holes in either side with a can opener and then taking a big, satisfying drink. He covered the top with a napkin, stuffed it into the crack, and bedded down for the night.
The next morning, he grabbed the can of juice and took a big swig.
He gagged on a mouthful of ants.
That was the instant he decided to go down.
Seventeen years separation in our experiences, plus another 33 years in the remembering, and nothing much had changed.
We both had a good laugh.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2008 - 02:33pm PT
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Cool stories Roger,
Ken
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Nov 11, 2008 - 03:27pm PT
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Double D
climber
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Nov 11, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
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Ken,
Thanks again for your incredible effort in putting this thing together. What a blast! I can only hope to be half as cool as those cats when I'm their age!
It was great to re-connect with all of you that I was able to see. It's been way too long and I forgot how much I missed the Valley and my buds. Likewise it was great to meet many of you whom I had the pleasure of meeting for the 1st time...and there were lots of you!
Special thanks also to Bill, Angie and Lucus Price for dropping all and coming without any notice (1 day). Many others came at the last minute as well at great sacrafice...thanks!
But who brought the funky weather???
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Nov 11, 2008 - 03:44pm PT
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Thank you for the
pictures and stories. It sure looks like an inspirational
experience, and it's filtering through on this thread, Keep em comming please!
Jerry, I'm glad that pic you took of the Captain made another appearance, it's awesome!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 11, 2008 - 07:31pm PT
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Raffi's Tomb Sitters:
Ed and Anastasia
Jim and Shawna Pettigrew
Lynne and Ed
Roger and Sybylle Hechtle
Wayne giving advice to a noob
I think the question was: "why does it take so long?"
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 11, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
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Roger, you still look lean and mean if just a tad grayer. How are you doing?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 08:33pm PT
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It was all about the Rock....
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Mimi
climber
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Nov 11, 2008 - 08:50pm PT
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Thanks for posting more pics. They all capture the fun we had and the beauty of the Valley no matter the time of year or the weather conditions. Unless you're on a wall, that is. LOL! Steve the Brit, aka the real Crusher, pointed out how surprising it was that no one was up there doing a commemorative ascent.
The more I think back on the weekend, the more I want to see my new and old friends again.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 09:26pm PT
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And The People...Both Young
"How could he say that to me ?"
"Oops, I really blew it!"
" Would you accept this bouquet of pine needles ?"
"I dunno, should I forgive the mutt?" : )
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Nov 11, 2008 - 09:39pm PT
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"I had a nice chat with Rich Calderwood. It turns out that we both had freed routes on Phantom Pinnacle. He and Mike Borghoff
freed the left side, Regular route, in 1957 at 5.9, and Mike Graham, Jim Bridwell, and I freed the Center Route in 1976, at 5.10d."
Holy shee! Rich did that with my dad!. Cool.
Erik Wolfe (Borghoff)
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Nov 11, 2008 - 09:40pm PT
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This event was just awesome!
Ken, Thank you.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 09:56pm PT
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And Older.... Famous People
Received a request from the forum for names and history to be included with these pics. I am really a noobie but will do my best. Please email me info or post names and stories and I will edit and include. If I make an error please let me know.
Al Steck, one of the listed original ascenders. Also known for the Steck-Salathe route on The Sentinel.
Don Lauria and fun, darling Joyce (hope I got the name right.) Lauria Sended with Royal Robbins for the 2nd Ascent of The Captain in 1971, I believe.
Royal Robbins and his beautiful wife Liz. Read the Great Book, " Beyond the Vertical" by Layton Kor to find out about Royal, a superior climber and photographer. I believe Royal climbed the second ascent of the Nose.
Ellen Searby on right. Searby along with John Whitmer, Cookie Calderwood and Beverly Woolsey contributed much to the success of the first ascent by plodding up the talus with loads of food and water.
Cindy Merry on left. What dynamic, fun gals they are. A real joy to meet.
Wally Reed, Rick Sylvester, Mark Powell and George Whitmore
Chris Jones and Glen Denny
Wally Reed, part of the first ascent team, also put up Lunch Ledge Direct with Yvon Chouinard in 1961 and The Rorp in 1963 with Frank Sacherer.
Wayne Merry (on left) was a seasonal naturalist under Sharsmith in 1957 and participated in the First ascent of El Cap. Merry was also the creator and director of the Yosemite Mountaineering School 1969-74.
Great interview by Chris McNamara with Merry on the Thread "Supertopo Tip for: The Nose El Capitan, 4-5-2008.
George Whitmore, a Fresno resident, was also part of the first ascent team which accomplished the task in 47 days in 1957-58. George made several pitons out of I-beam steel which were used in the monumental task. One, nearly a foot long, was dubbed "Big Brute".
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 10:44pm PT
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And The Infamous .....
Waiting in line to spend time with the original Nose Crew (on left) Larry Zulam (sorry if mispelled) and Kevin Powell actually recognized each other from BITD. Larry sends a shout out to Todd Gordon also !
And on the left 10be4me, middle (sorry can't read my notes) and on right I believe the Fletcher mon.
Just joined the Super Topo Corps early spring of 2008. Have to say that the people I have posted with for months and then met at The FaceLift and The 50th Nose Reunion have been an incredible group of people.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 10:57pm PT
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NO WAY ! They're really using Hemp again !
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 11, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
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Nice pics all!
It was a fun evening. My wife Wendy is not a climber and she loved it. The stories were all interesting and entertaining. The slide show was very cool. Wendy was sad more people didn't get introduced. She had a great talk with Hans Florine Sunday and was looking around wondering who all the other folks were. Lynne, if you can put a few more captions it would be cool for those of us who are not in the know.
A fun time. I'm glad we went. Thanks Ken!
See y'all,
Zander
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 11, 2008 - 11:57pm PT
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Zander, will do. Just hope they don't cancel my edit button. Glad you and your wife had a great time. Climbers are just the best. How cool is it that your wife, a non climber, had fun talking with Hans F. Lynnie
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 11, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
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Hi Lynne,
Sorry I didn't meet you. Maybe next time.
Zander
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10b4me
climber
the gray bands
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Nov 12, 2008 - 12:09am PT
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Ken,
so what's the next big event? like Fletcher said, the 35th anniversary of the first NIAD is coming up in two years.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 12, 2008 - 12:13am PT
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Yeah, more captions, though it's all cool.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 12:13am PT
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Zander, looking up your names for you now. Say, do you get out to Joshua Tree ? Tell your wife she's a champ for getting involved in something out of her comfort zone ! Really. lrl
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Jim Pettigrew
Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
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Nov 12, 2008 - 12:25am PT
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Hey Donini! It was great to see Roger again! Wished that you were there also. Good times were had by all.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2008 - 12:29am PT
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Lynne, I have tried twice to email you and it has failed. Not sure why. Great pictures! Email me with a correct address please.
10b4me, I think my next big event will be my own 50'th birthday and I will work on a hundred. I am half way there! After that the Granite Frontiers display will be in the Gene Autry Museum starting June 12th, 2009. YCA is also developing an interpretation program for 2009. Of course there will be a Facelift 2009 and an Ansel Adams art auction too. I have other plans but will not mention them unless it is finalized. I also have to make a living and a family to take care of and don't want to get ahead of myself.
Ken
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Jim Pettigrew
Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
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Nov 12, 2008 - 12:35am PT
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ken, thanks again for puttin' it together! Great to be able to have the oppurtunity to meet and greet some of the people responsible for kick starting the climbing scene that everyone now enjoys!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 01:02am PT
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Ken, just emailed you. Sorry for any inconvenience. Incredible event. Lynne
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 01:07am PT
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Ed Hartouni, Yo, where is the other side of your group picture ? Hope you have recovered...hehehe and you're younger than I am ....better take your vitamins. :D Lynnie
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Double D
climber
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Nov 12, 2008 - 01:34am PT
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Lynne...first it was a pleasure meeting you. Minor edit..."Dave Bergstrom on left (sorry if mispelled) and Kevin Powell actually recognized each other from BITD"... that was actually Larry Zulam (sp?) the original slack-master. Larry could do stuff on the C4 slack-chain that would blow your mind. He's still at it and climbing a lot too.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 01:50am PT
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Thanks, DoubleD. Glad you'll got home in good shape. Just reading my "antique" edition of Yosemite Climber tonight and saw you on Photo 26, Separate Reality. Gezz Dude, you are a climber, hehe.
"High above the Cookie cliff, a short bluff provides an airy setting for the stunning roof pitch of Separate Reality. Dave Diegleman strains to clip into protection for the final moves over the lip. One of the first 5.12 pitches in the Valley, the climb involved first ascensionist Ron Kauk considerable effort to just prearrange the protection."
I still like the blue Cargoule (sp?) pic the best. Big Laughs.
God Bless You and Yours, Lynne
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Nov 12, 2008 - 02:01am PT
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I thought everyone attending was interesting, inspiring and terrific. I must also include all the non-climbers too... No one can be great without having a good supporter to hold them up for greatness.
Now Lynne! Even on this thread you are still the life of the party. Thanks for letting me be part of your trip.
Anastasia
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Max V02
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Nov 12, 2008 - 02:12am PT
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Yah, Lynne girl, das me da Fletcher mon! Middle guy is James. As often seems to happen to me, I thought I didn't know him but I met him on one of 10b4me's trips several years ago. Rusty brain cells.
Ken... know what you mean about taking care of the "rest of your life." Looking forward to what you come up with in the future... I'm sure it will be fantastic.
Fletch
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 12, 2008 - 02:21am PT
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1. Hans Florine
2. Marianna Florine
3. Larry Arthur
4.
5. Pierce Florine
6. Jeff Cunningham
7. Ken Yeager
8. Heather Baer
9. Schree Yeager
10. Steve Schneider
11. Ruby Reed
12.
13. Kevin Powell
14.
15. Katie Lambert
16. Jesse McGahey
17. Alton?
18.
19. Michael ?
20. George Whitmore
21. Ellie Hawkins
22. Al Steck
23. Rich Calderwood
24. Wayne Merry
25. Wally Reed
26. Ellen Searby
27.
28.
29.
30. Nick Rosen
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37. Rick Cashner
38. Don Lauria
39. Lynne Liechtfuss
40. Jay Renneberg
41. Jeanette Renneberg
42. Beryl Knauth
43.
44.
45.
46.
47.
48.
49. Merry Braun
50. Greg Lee
51. Rick Sylvester
52.
53.
54. Tom Rohrer
55.
56.
57.
58. Jim Pettigrew
59.
60.
61.
62. Ron Hahn
63. Lisa Graney
64.
65. Roger Breedlove
66. Steve Grossman
67.
68. Joyce McKim
69. Dave Bengston
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 02:40am PT
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#69 is the current head of Yosemite Climbing School....very nice dude.
#42 is a terrific person I met during the waning moments of the El Cap Meadow event. She was a huge part of Warren Hardings life, his girlfriend for 7(?)intense years. What a super person she is. I could call #42 Beasto (that's what she called herself she told me) ...Warren was Batso...but I'd like to recall her real name. Shout out for help ?! Thanks from Lynne
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Max V02
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Nov 12, 2008 - 02:46am PT
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#69... that would be Dave Bengston, Lynne. Very nice dude indeed. I wouldn't be here if it wasn't for him.... he taught me to climb back in the day.
Fletch
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 12, 2008 - 02:51am PT
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Would #42 be Beryl Knauth?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 03:00am PT
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This side of the photo looks like we be having much mo fun than the right side.... say guys, try and post in and id the rest of the folk.... Peace and Joy and a great night. Lynne
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 03:08am PT
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Mighty Hiker, yes that is her name. Super Person. As usual Mr. Mighty Hiker you have saved me again. Muchas Gracias ! Lynne
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 03:22am PT
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And as long as we are remembering all the BITD stuff "Yosemite Climber" is a book I recommend...tho you may need to track it down.
Picture 27... "Kevin Worrall follows the third pitch (5.9) of Quicksilver, on Middle Cathedral Rock. The rock is very solid and smooth in texture, making the climbing a continuous balance on sharp little edges and rounded friction pockets."
This would be The Warbler on our Super Topo.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 03:31am PT
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And finally, picture 20 in Yosemite Climber....To honor Mr. Wbraun and of course lovely Merry.
"The Cookie Cliff has the best collection of short, hard free climbs in Yosemite. Thirty routes and more, practically all of them 5.10 or harder, follow steep crack systems for two or three pitches of sustained jamming.
One of the very best is the spectacular Meat Grinder, a 5.10c.
No single move on the climb is harder than 5.9, but few are less severe.
Werner Braun starts the second (crux) pitch while Ric Accomazzo rests comfortably below."
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captain chaos
climber
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Nov 12, 2008 - 08:34am PT
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Congratulations Kenny, you did well- wish I could have attended, seeing all my old friends at these events in the valley are making me homesick... Craig
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 10:58am PT
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oh, man.. I'm kickin myself in the butt,...... Lynne and Ed and Werner and Anastasia and Ken were there.......
My loss!
Thanks for all the photos.. Everyone!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 12, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
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Hey Donini,
Hi Jim, I sort of expected you to be there. You would have loved it. It was great to see the really old guys. Us youngin’s are gaining on them. To the young climbers who were there, we probably were indistinguishable from the Nose crew.
Anyway, regarding the hair color, there were only two colors present on the older set: grey and blond, to paraphrase Olympia Dukakis.
As for lean and mean, you just gott’a love Photoshop.
On Sunday morning, Peter, Grewdipet, (wonderful to spend time with those guys) and I decided that we could manage a walk up the Cookie Road with Jim’s wife Shawna. Since each of us had signed this quintessential 70s free climbing crag with a new route, (Peter on “Waverly Wafer” with Bridwell, Jim on “Catchy” with Bridwell, and me on “Beverly’s Tower” (FFA) with Alan Bard) it seems like an appropriate homecoming.
As we started up the road, I commented to Peter that the NPS had done an excellent job of camouflaging the beginning at the turnout. Soon it became apparent that we were not on the road, we were in a new geological time zone.
None of us had been up there since the road has been covered by rockfall. When we finally managed to get through the talus, the road was overgrown and the foliage was so thick that we could barely see the routes. Or barely remember which route was which. But, it all started to come back.
I don’t remember getting sore necks from looking up years ago.
It would be fun to get back there and redo some of those old routes with old friends. You game?
Best, Roger
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GLee
Trad climber
Missoula
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Nov 12, 2008 - 12:41pm PT
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Looking at what Rick Sylvester and his jacket look like in his picture with Don Lauria, I would say #51 (no hat, gray hair, blue outer/gray inner jacket) is Rick Sylvester, #50 (red tropical shirt) is Greg Lee.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Nov 12, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
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Ken, thanks again for putting on a wonderful event.
Ed, I quickly introduced myself to you in the meadow, it was great to meet you.
"Hans Florine, Greg Lee (red shirt), who are the others?"
My beautiful wife, Kimi, in the brown jacket, me in black.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Nov 12, 2008 - 02:33pm PT
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Some interesting tidbits I learned this weekend.
Warren did some climbs in the summer of '58 with Wayne and George to see if they could be part of the nose team.
They tried a route to the left of the captain, but couldn't breathe due to all the mist coming off Ribbon Falls. So they moved to Washington Column.
Ellen was engaged to Warren in '58, but Warren was only interested in cars, wine, and climbing...
Warren didn't get permission to miss so much work (surveying for CalTrans) when he went up for the final push. He would have got fired, but with all the publicity they couldn't fire a 'hero'.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2008 - 07:05pm PT
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Thanks for posting all the great pictures. They show a happy crowd.
Ken
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 12, 2008 - 08:46pm PT
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Lynne,
In your 'older and famous' post, I think the names that go with the pictures are:
1. Al Steck--whom you identify
2. Don Lauria and Joyce McKim (edited--sorry Joyce)
3. Liz and Royal Robbins--whom you identify
3. Cindy Merry and Ellen Searby
4. Wally Reed talking to Rick Sylvester with Mark Powell and George Withmore shown in the background
5. Chris Jones and Glen Denny
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 12, 2008 - 09:16pm PT
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Thanks, Roger !
Just getting ready to add more info and now I can add the names as well. Hope your trip back to the middle of America went smoothly. :D
Lynne
Ps: Kevin Powell has a really great portrait shot of you. His avatar name is Dimes.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 13, 2008 - 12:23am PT
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Clint, Thanks so much for taking the time to post the correct information! Hate to get the facts wrong and I have corrected. She and I were laughing and teary over both of our pasts and some of the facts got lost in translation. : )) Lynne
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 02:43am PT
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40: Jay Renneberg
41: Jeanette Renneberg
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RonHahn
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 03:36pm PT
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62 Ron Hahn
63 Lisa Graney
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 10:06pm PT
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#3 is Larry Arthur of Mountain Tools fame. I met him at the Ahwahnee signing event on Sunday morning.
#11 is Ruby Reed, Wally's charming wife.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 14, 2008 - 01:21am PT
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Checked my other camera and had a couple other pics on it. Just couldn't resist. Hey, my grandbabies will have alot to talk about right Roger and Peter ...sides our oldest is named Peter.
This Gathering was a big deal for myself and others. Ed Hartouni, I know you said you have two rolls of black and whites....and what about you Kevin Powell...post up guys and you others that I know have pics. If you have a prob posting the pictures just email me or the great Mighty Hiker.
This rock captured me and thus one more photo. Hey, many pics of The Captain today. The line of these two facinate....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 14, 2008 - 01:38am PT
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just got the developed film back tonight, but I'm in a crunch to get work done for a presentation tomorrow.
On top of that, I tweaked my back pretty bad at the gym tonight.. don't expect anything posted earlier than tomorrow evening (unless I am unable to work tomorrow).
It was only one roll of B&W entirely shot at the Ahwahnee reception... I did get a few color slide shots in the meadows...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 14, 2008 - 01:45am PT
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Gosh, sorry Ed ! Darn ! Do you know about Arnica salve ? Just recommened it to a friend tonight. Great stuff and costs very little.
Cheers from Lynne ! Be Better Soon ....
Edit: Mimi, Thanks, hope my Edit button is still there if not yo got it covered. : D
Edit working and got name corrected. Yo the best Gal !
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Mimi
climber
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Nov 14, 2008 - 01:54am PT
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FYI, Don Lauria's wife's name is Joyce. A very nice lady with lots of energy.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 14, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
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The Sunday "meet-and-greet" in the Ahwahnee Hotel's was pretty slow, mostly signing and picture taking. I shot with natural light with my Nikon FM2N and a Nikkor 50mm f1.4 lens, probably stopped down one, and probably at 1/100s exposures... the film was Fuji Neopan 1600 which is a bit grainy but gives exposure latitude when the light is low. I like the look...
Chris Falkenstein shooting with something a little more modern.
Wayne Merry discussing something in a most enthusiastic way, as usual.
Ellen Searby in a discussion with Jeanette Renneberg.
Al Steck rests his restless soul.
Glenn Denny and his wife with Rick Sylvester
Ellie Hawkins listening.
Jerry Gallwas, Chris Jones and Rick Sylvester in the middle of something.
Peter Haan having fun.
Jess McGahey stopped by too!
Jim Pettigrew, Steve Grossman and Larry Arthur.
The scene...
? and Ken Yeager looking over some future history.
Beryl Knauth delighted over her inscriptions.
Anastasia, Steve and Peter having a conversation, looks like Anastasia is doing all the talking!
Beryl, Roger Derryberry, Joyce McKim and Don Lauria, Roger Breedlove.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 14, 2008 - 04:27pm PT
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my last picture post to this thread, most likely...
Werner, Anastasia and Merry in El Cap meadows as things wind down.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Nov 14, 2008 - 04:37pm PT
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Me do all the talking! Especially when I get excited! Naw... Never... (Smiling)
I really need to learn a few meditation tricks before allowing myself out again.
There is such thing as getting too excited.
AF
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 14, 2008 - 04:48pm PT
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Just for the record. The very energetic Joyce is Joyce McKim. A friend I have known for thirty years, but we are not married.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Nov 14, 2008 - 04:56pm PT
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Ellen Searby is in discussion with Jeanette Renneberg.
That is a photo of the great women of Yosemite.
Thanks for posting the pic!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 14, 2008 - 05:16pm PT
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Just thought more should be said about the driving force behind the first ascent.
Warren Harding
Semper Farcissimus
June 18, 1924 - February 27, 2002
“Warren Harding? Well, what can I say?”
That’s exactly how Warren would have started his own obituary. His usual demeanor was self-deprecating: To the question, “Are you the famous Warren Harding?,” he would retort, “Well, I used to be.” He believed that people are never what they were. They all grow… older.
Harding died at home in Anderson, California, well aware that the end was near. He had been in failing health for over three years and refused to exchange his lifestyle for an extended life span. He approached his end with the same wit that he exhibited throughout his life. From his bed, just days before he died, he quipped that he was definitely never going to buy any more 50,000-mile-warranty tires.
Warren was introduced to climbing at the age of 27 in 1952 and within a year had found his niche in Yosemite Valley. Most of us remember Harding as the Yosemite pioneer -- the prime mover in the first ascent of El Capitan in 1958, via the Nose, a milestone that marked the first time a wall of such size and difficulty had been climbed anywhere in the world. His first ascents of El Cap, the East Buttress and North Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock, the West Face of the Leaning Tower, the East Face of Washington Column (later freed as Astroman), the South Face of Mount Watkins, the Direct Route on the Lost Arrow, and the South Face of Half Dome spanned the next two decades. In the Sierra high country he established first ascents on the East Face of Keeler Needle and the Southwest Face of Mount Conness.
Beyond his groundbreaking ascents, Warren was characterized variously as a rebel, iconoclast, and rogue. In his outrageous book Downward Bound, published in 1975, Harding described himself as “an undersized individual … [with] neither any outstanding physical attributes nor burning ambition. But I have a mind of my own and a love for the mountains.” Despite this self-description, Harding was a dashing figure in his heyday, well known for his penchant for good-looking women, classy sports cars, and Red Mountain wine.
And he did have a mind of his own and used it in formulating his climbing philosophy. He looked upon climbing as “an individual thing, not some kind of organized religion.” He was unimpressed and refused to be intimidated by admittedly “better climbers” when they espoused certain “climbing ethics.” Warren never hesitated to take on those whom he referred to as the “elite” of the climbing community and didn’t mince words in his castigation of “these gentlemen who, in effect, presume to tell me how to do my thing.” Climbing to him was something he did because there were no rules.
When he and Dean Caldwell completed their 27-day first ascent of the Wall of the Early Morning Light (a.k.a. the Dawn Wall) on El Cap in 1970, their placement of 330 bolts re-ignited a controversy that had smoldered in the Valley since Warren drilled his first bolt-hole. Was Harding putting up routes where no route existed or should exist? Excessive bolts and fixed ropes were being judged as “unethical.” To that sentiment Warren replied, “Climbing requires many disciplines, not the least of which is plain old ass-busting work, which is what bolts amount to!”
Royal Robbins, in concert with a few other well-respected Yosemite climbers, decided that the route should be erased. Two months after the first ascent, Robbins and I started up for the second ascent, chopping the bolts as we climbed. On the first bivouac, after four pitches, the question of interfering with an established route -- especially one with some admirably difficult nailing -- began to eat at Robbins. By morning we agreed to quit chopping. Robbins later wrote, “[It’s] good to have a man around who doesn’t give a damn what the establishment thinks … Harding stands out as a magnificent maverick.”
By the late 1970s Warren put serious Yosemite climbing behind him and dedicated his time to writing, lectures, slideshow tours, and the occasional sojourn into the mountains. Never giving up his union card, he worked off and on as a surveyor for the State of California. As he put it, “I’ll just plug along. Climb, work, climb, have an occasional glass of wine.” Into the 1980s there was a lot less climbing, a lot less work, and finally retirement -- and a lot more glasses of wine. He did, however, return to the Nose in 1989 to become, at that time, the oldest person to ever climb El Capitan.
Harding’s affinity for Red Mountain wine was his eventual and inevitable undoing. By the time he reached his 70s, he had been warned that his liver would not last if he continued to imbibe. When the end was near and his body began to shut down, he became confused and a little delusional. He wanted to know what was happening to him. The conversation led to discussing the Buddhists’ belief that the soul leaves the dying body and enters an embryo to emerge anew in a child. Harding pleaded weakly, “But how will you find me?”
During these last days, many of Harding’s old climbing friends began to visit. On one occasion it was planned to videotape Warren and some of his friends while they swapped stories of the golden era of Yosemite climbing. When his friends arrived they spent an hour or so greeting one another. Warren became impatient and whispered to the cameraman, “Do they realize there’s not much time left?”
During one of these story-swapping sessions, someone asked Warren which of all his bivouacs was the worst. He answered without hesitation that the storm-bound bivouac on Half Dome’s South Face route was his worst. Immediately he was asked which was his best. He grinned, and almost in a whisper, answered, “You’ll have to ask my girlfriends.” Finally someone asked what he would do differently if he had it to do over again. He replied, “I would be taller, smarter, and less nasty.”
Warren Harding? Have we said enough?
 Don Lauria
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 14, 2008 - 05:20pm PT
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Thanks, Don - that's a wonderful piece of writing, and a fine memorial.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Nov 14, 2008 - 05:30pm PT
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Don, that was beautiful. Thanks for posting that.
AF
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Max V02
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Nov 14, 2008 - 06:43pm PT
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Thank you Don. That was quite moving and apropos.
Fletch
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Max V02
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Nov 14, 2008 - 06:46pm PT
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From Ed's B&W images above:
?, Chris Jones and Rick Sylvester in the middle of something.
I think that "?" might be Tom Rohrer aka madbolter.
Fletch
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 14, 2008 - 07:15pm PT
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thanks Don.
?, Jones, Sylvester; ? is not Rohrer...
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 14, 2008 - 08:50pm PT
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Try Jerry Gallwas,Jones, Sylvester
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 15, 2008 - 03:06am PT
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Don Lauria, thanks for the tribute to the mover and the shaker, Warren Harding. I think everyone that weekend had him keymost in their hearts and minds. It was difficult to process the absence of the man that was the instrument of the Achievement.
E. Hartoni, great B&W ! Know the time it takes to post .... Thanks from all of us on the Taco. Great to rub elbows at the 50 Reunion. What an Incredible Event Ken pulled off. Feel so fortunate I was able to be there.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Nov 15, 2008 - 10:13am PT
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Great tribute Don.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 15, 2008 - 10:37am PT
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Nice tribute, Don.
It takes Warren Harding to shake the tarnish off of being a Maverick.
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Double D
climber
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Nov 16, 2008 - 04:11pm PT
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What a blast!
Al Steck and Ken Yager
Wayne Merry getting Wally Reed fired up!
Luckily there was still some magic left of fall…
Rick Cashner and Bill Price…great to see you both!
Lucas and Angie Price, and my first bride just after I told Lucas, “Lucas, do you even realize how cool your dad is?”
A clearing storm in the Valley…there’s nothing quite like it!
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Double D
climber
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Nov 16, 2008 - 04:12pm PT
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Vic ___? interviews George Whitmore outside of the Ahwahnee.
Lynne in the line-up getting her Alpinist signed.
George Whitmore memorializing Harding’s statue.
Larry Zublim re-connecting with George Whitmore who first taught him to climb.
Lynne and Allan Steck. When I told Al how much I’ve admired his routes, he made sure to encourage me to go do the West Buttress of El Cap and the Yosemite Point Buttress routes. Both have been on my tick-list for years.
Wally Reed signing Lynne’s magazine. When I thanked Wally for all of the hard free-climbs he was part of, he just shrugged and said that Mark Powell was really the driving force back then…priceless!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 16, 2008 - 05:20pm PT
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That's not Roger Derryberry in the first picture!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2008 - 05:30pm PT
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Don is right. That persons name is Vic and he was doing radio interviews.
Ken
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 16, 2008 - 10:15pm PT
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What a BLAST indeed ! One of the best Events ever. Hurray again for Chicken Skinner.
As one of the last 8 in El Cap Meadows to finally call it a day last Sunday, I'm thinking why was it so hard to leave ?
Was it the incredible energy of the People, the Rock and the Valley itself.....? Whatever it was, the dynamic was a 20+ on a scale of 10.
Say Double D thanks for All your pics...as always...great ! (My kiddos and grands in Belgium will appreciate.) So much sensory overload last weekend hard to always link names with people.
And Ken, what month is your special birthday....course yu don't have to divulge if you're shy ?
Finally, one last photo. I THINK it is master of the funny stories, Steve Grossman in striped shirt and lovely Shawna Pettigrew in white jacket but hey what do I know. Peace, Lynnie
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2008 - 10:49pm PT
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Lynne,
You will have to do a little research to find out. Here is a clue: for years I have called up Royal and wished him a Happy Birthday. When he asked " How did you know?" I said "It is easy for me to remember." After a few years I told him why it was easy to remember.
Ken
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 16, 2008 - 11:12pm PT
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Ah Ha, Sunday Night Mystery Theater bwahahaha ! : )))
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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apparently this thread has been locked out from editing... so I'll just add additional information as new threads....
1. Hans Florine
2. Marianna Florine
3. Larry Arthur
4.
5. Pierce Florine
6. Jeff Cunningham
7. Ken Yeager
8. Heather Baer
9. Schree Yeager
10. Steve Schneider
11. Ruby Reed
12. Dianne Howes
13. Kevin Powell
14.
15. Katie Lambert
16. Jesse McGahey
17. Alton?
18.
19. Michael ?
20. George Whitmore
21. Ellie Hawkins
22. Al Steck
23. Rich Calderwood
24. Wayne Merry
25. Wally Reed
26. Ellen Searby
27. Pamela Korst
28. Kevin Sesler
29.
30. Nick Rosen
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37. Rick Cashner
38. Don Lauria
39. Lynne Liechtfuss
40. Jay Renneberg
41. Jeanette Renneberg
42. Beryl Knauth
43.
44.
45.
46.
47.
48.
49. Merry Braun
50. Greg Lee
51. Rick Sylvester
52.
53.
54. Tom Rohrer
55.
56.
57.
58. Jim Pettigrew
59.
60.
61.
62. Ron Hahn
63. Lisa Graney
64.
65. Roger Breedlove
66. Steve Grossman
67.
68. Joyce McKim
69. Dave Bengston
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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So what can we plan....? should we start a new cryptic plan thread certain people can't log onto? haha !
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2008 - 10:30pm PT
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Wow! This thread is still going on, it's old news. Hi Lynne, Hi Ed.
Ken
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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I read all through this yesterday, I forgot how cool it really is.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2008 - 12:08am PT
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Jay, it was really cool, better than I had hoped. I wish you had been there. We need to hang out again for no good reason.
Ken
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 10, 2008 - 12:10am PT
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Theres always a good reason, Ken.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Dec 10, 2008 - 12:14am PT
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Yo, Chicken Skinner....did your kids (or MiMi or someone) give you the Mexican Dancing Chicken I brought for you to the Reunion? It danced and sang Ole' Ole' ....so many people tried to steal it that night. Wonder if you ever got it or it may be dancing who knows where.....
Cheers, Lynnie
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2008 - 12:18am PT
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Yes Lynne you gave it to me and I gave it to my youngest child yesterday and she has been tormenting the dog regularly with it. I am thinking of you more than you think. Hope you are happy and well.
Ken
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 14, 2008 - 04:06am PT
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Bump for photo perusal
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nita
climber
chica from chico, I don't claim to be a daisy
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bump.. should of bumped this on Chickens Skinner's 50th birthday... love this thread.
life with a computer ..can be sweet...
Angie Price.. looks Great!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 11, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
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Classic Thread Bump!!!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Apr 11, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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DoubleD - what were you shooting? You have some nice shots from NR2008.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Apr 11, 2009 - 02:35pm PT
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One would be hard pressed to top this incredible event. To think I almost didn't go. Yikes ! Thanks Anastasia for the boot I needed :D
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 12, 2009 - 10:40am PT
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Friends don't let friends miss out on a funfest!?!
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Aug 14, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
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Just stumbled on this thread & wanted to thank everyone that contributed all of the stories and pictures. What a happy way to spend the afternoon. Thank you!
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10b4me
Ice climber
Wishes-He-Was-In-Arizona
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Aug 14, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
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Glad that I was there. I was able to put names to faces. Had a great time.
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Cookie C
climber
California
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Aug 20, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
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Very entertaining look into the past, my past. Thanks.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The great state of advaita
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Aug 20, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
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It was great fun to be there as well. Got to meet and hear a lot of really great people and their stories.
Another great event by Ken.
I guess the 55th anniversary is coming up this year. Does that mean the Nose can claim social security benefits?
Eric
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 21, 2013 - 11:37am PT
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Welcome Cookie!
We have a Calderwood in the house!
Cookie and Ellen Searby.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 21, 2013 - 11:46am PT
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Dam! Cookie Calderwood on ST, that is going back some years. Welcome Cookie.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 28, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
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Fifty six years ago Warren, Wally, Bill and Allen hauled up a turkey dinner that Warren's mom had cooked for them to celebrate Thanksgiving at the Captain's Table.
Truly a Moveable Feast!
Happy Turkey Day Folks!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 28, 2017 - 08:00pm PT
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Pure Nostalgia Bump...
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