New route at Sugarloaf

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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

climber
Calyfucinphornya
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 7, 2006 - 09:08am PT
I just put up a new route at Sugarloaf.
Bewilderbeast 12a or b (tentative). It starts up Beast of Burden. At the 3rd bolt the route traverses left into the center of the face and continues to the top. Total of 10 Bolts and 2 knobs (one optional). It has some cool knob moves with some long reaches but the crux is the technical stuff between. It is quite sustained in places. I think it's well safe but there are some hard moves with a bolt at or a below your feet. The rock is excellent. Its about 100 - 105ft and a 60 meter will just about get you down. It ends at the Gallows Pole anchor.
It is all cleaned up and awaits a second.
Aidan
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Dec 7, 2006 - 09:30am PT
Sounds pretty cool. BoB is a classic. I think Jon Fox and I were looking at that face lo' years ago when we scared an owl out of Schiester and did BoB instead...

coiler

Trad climber
yosemite
Dec 7, 2006 - 11:34am PT
So, is this another bolt over the top of the old runout route, like what was done to "Telesis" (at Sugarloaf) or "Arrowroot" (at lover's leap)?
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Dec 7, 2006 - 11:44am PT
-knott to mention essentially retrobolting the classic Price-Smith at Phantom Spires,
and a 10b X route at Sugarloaf. Those added bolts loudly testify, and rob others of
any chance of doing the routes in the original, run-out style.

"Independant lines", my ass...
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Dec 7, 2006 - 12:11pm PT
coiler, is arctic breeze a retrobolt of arrowroot?

I guess that would explain why I couldn't find arrowroot!
Apocalypsenow

Trad climber
Cali
Dec 7, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
"ditto" with Coiler and Hardman...
Chalky Fingers

climber
Dec 7, 2006 - 03:57pm PT
Some people should not be allowed to bolt! This assclown is the worst!!!!
scuffy b

climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
Dec 7, 2006 - 04:00pm PT
Is this what people mean by "mixed reviews?"
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Dec 7, 2006 - 04:03pm PT
I dunno, seems like "12b" is not stanced very often. If Tripod() bolted the line I'm thinking of it's no retro. Maybe you're thinking of that 10c to the right a few hundred feet that wanders near a run 10b...but I won't be out at the loaf in the near future to looksee again.

Any of you guys done BoB? it's a testy little Mishler (Doug) route iirc. I recommend tight shoes...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Dec 7, 2006 - 04:04pm PT
at least it's a climbing topic. I've given up. I'm going to political topics.
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Dec 7, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
yea, I vote that only those who think they know it all should be allowed to bolt! How do I get on the allowed to bolt list?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Dec 7, 2006 - 04:24pm PT
atch, I've added your name to the list. welcome aboard.
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Dec 7, 2006 - 04:30pm PT
suhweeeeett!!! Thanks caught, meet me at sugarloaf, I will bring the annihilator. I saw a new line that traverses from Bolee Gold, through Hooker's Haven, farley, the crux of Taurus and finishes on the fracture.
Xela

climber
Dec 7, 2006 - 04:31pm PT
426 wrote:
> Any of you guys done BoB? it's a testy little Mishler (Doug)
> route iirc.

Not that it really matters but Beast of Burden was a Chris Clifford route. One of the first rap bolted lines in the area.
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

climber
Calyfucinphornya
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2006 - 04:47pm PT
It is always with some trepidation that I ever post on this chit chat page. Yet I always find myself enjoying the fray with the bad-mouthers that frequent it. As for coiler: If you payed even a half wit's attention to my report you will clearly understand it to be a new route that comes out of BOB at the 3rd bolt.
As for rebolting the "classic" Price-Smith. They took one of the most notable features on the upper spire got 40 feet up could not make it go bolting on lead and took a 90 degree left tun and bailed onto Roberts Crack 30 feet over. I considered it an incompleted line not a classic. I think I was taking liberties with it but could not get hold of either of them and it is a stunning feature. I think Lesbien Love that that follows this beautiful dike all the way up is killer, and enjoyed by many. Try it when its bathed in a nice Spires alpenglow for an amazing asthetic experience.
Re: Tapestry and Crushed Velvet. Before that route went in I spoke with Joel Moore who actually watched the FA. His opinion was that it was a new line and should be called as such. And so it was. If you actually get up on that face and look around you will see that Blue Velvet actually infringes on the old Tapestry route quite a bit.
Let's see, what else.
Chalky Fingers. All I can think is you must be one of those pathetic tossers that like to take ownership at the Leap every summer? Either way I suspect you could not climb any of the routes you bad mouth me about. So right back at you pal. Your a worthless wanker and I'll be climbing long after you've given up cragging and gone fulltime into your next career: Dumpster diving
Peace and Love
Aidan Maguire
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Dec 7, 2006 - 04:50pm PT
Thanks for the correction, Xela. I knew it was rapped and think it's a superb route. Fine arete climbing after the initial "bouldering"...maybe it was Doug who rec'd it to me...


Remember when tahoe had the "S" grade, fellas?


caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Dec 7, 2006 - 04:51pm PT
hey aidan, check your email.

cheers,
dave
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

climber
Calyfucinphornya
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2006 - 11:41pm PT
What is/was the "S" grade to which you refer?
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

climber
Calyfucinphornya
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2006 - 11:49pm PT
Suprisingly, I was being sincere!
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Dec 8, 2006 - 03:02am PT
The "S" grade as in S.12c was for " Sport " or more specifically rap-bolted climbs in a vain attempt @ FA style reporting. Made a brief appearance in Basecamp/Climbing in 88'
Messages 1 - 20 of total 71 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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