Zion Climbing Fatality

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crackfiend

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2008 - 07:27pm PT
Just got word about this........ very sad news..
This was a press release from the park

" Climbing Fatality on Touchstone Route in Zion National Park
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> James Martin Welton, 34, of Durango, CO, fell to his death while climbing in Zion National Park on Friday, October 17, 2008. The fall was from a popular climbing route called “Touchstone.” The cause of the incident is currently under investigation by the Washington County Sheriff’s Office in cooperation with the National Park Service. At approximately 7:15 p.m. two climbers who were ascending a nearby route stopped a Zion Canyon Shuttle Bus and reported that another climber had fallen. Rangers on scene determined that Welton had fallen approximately 300 feet and confirmed it was a fatality. His two climbing partners witnessed the fall. Eleven members of the Zion Search and Rescue Team responded and worked through the night removing the victim and investigating the fall.Touchstone is one of the most popular big wall climbs in the park,located across the canyon from Angel's Landing. Over 1,000 feet high from river to rim, it is usually a two-day climb requiring an overnight stay on a “port-a-ledge,” a cot-like device attached to the wall. Welton was considered a very experienced climber. He recently completed a climb of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. This is the first fatality in the park for 2008, and the sixth climbing fatality since 1983."
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Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Oct 18, 2008 - 07:30pm PT
My condolences to his family & friends.

So sorry to hear about something like this.

Life is short. Grab it by the horns & go for it, you never know when your last day will be.
sfotex

Mountain climber
Montana
Oct 18, 2008 - 07:35pm PT
James has been living in Elko, Nevada and spent a lot of time in Utah/Salt Lake. RIP.
Crimpergirl

Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Oct 18, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
Very sad news. My thoughts are with his family and friends. :(
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Oct 18, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
My heartfelt condolences to the family and friends - this is very sad news indeed...
-Tom
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 18, 2008 - 08:06pm PT
Sounds like a clip in failure at the top of the third pitch, the first place one can stand without holding on.
I don't know who wrote the release but if you need a portaledge and two days you shouldn't be on the route.

Zion had no wall accidents, fatalities or rescues for a quarter century. Then a bunch of topos got published. Now three people have died just on my routes there.
I think there is a connection there.
People assume climbing in Zion is like climbing in the Valley.

It isn't.

Serious business folks. Sorry to hear it, but I only wish I could say I was surprised.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Oct 18, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
Sh*t was there Friday and saw them climbing. My condolences to friends and family.
Shawn
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Oct 18, 2008 - 08:48pm PT
Condolences, it's alway a tiny bit more poignant when you've been there...
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Oct 19, 2008 - 09:40am PT
Ron's comments about topos, increased popularity, and accidents rings true. The East Ridge of Mt Temple is a Canadian Rockies classic and one of the 50 Classic Climbs by Roper and Steck. Within 2 years of that book coming out there were a number of rescues and deaths on the route because it was more involved than people thought from the description. Not a hard route but you have to be comfortable with climbing in the Rockies. Just like Zion you have to be used to the area.
Prod

Big Wall climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Oct 19, 2008 - 09:47am PT
Sad story. Anyone have any details on this acident?

Prod.
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Oct 19, 2008 - 11:22am PT
Any death while enjoying the outdoors in any form is a bummer. I am not sure that 3 deaths in 25 years is enough of a correlation to statistically say it is a result of route info being published. However, the comment regarding 50 Classics and the Canadian Rockies I have heard but not for Mt. Temple, rather for the Wishbone Arete on Mt. Robson. Lets face it, climbing is a fairly popular semi-mainstream sport. The accident rates are going increase.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 19, 2008 - 12:24pm PT
hey there all... say, very sad to heara this.. my condolenses to the family and friends...
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 19, 2008 - 12:53pm PT
Allen,
I said 25 years WITHOUT.
I hate being misquoted.

In the nineteenth century it was commonly believed that "rain followed the plow", a regrettable misconception. However, there well COULD be a relationship between the availability of route info (routes tend to look easier on a topo than when you are run out off the deck) combined with the misconception that Zion has a rescue crew who's competence compares with that of Yosemite (and this much I'll give Werner, Zion does not), and the increasing frequency of said crew's deployment in recent years.


In the old days people didn't call for rescues because it likely would have been a waste of breath. I think it is more than dumb luck that none were required.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 19, 2008 - 12:57pm PT
Oh, and while the press release said 6 since '83, only three were technical climbing fatalities to my knowledge.

For example; the Jim Dunaway fatality occurred while scrambling unroped, although a rope would not likely have helped.
Anastasia

climber
Not there
Oct 19, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
My deepest condolences...
No matter the reason why this happened; this is a person that loved, was loved and will be greatly missed. I feel for his family and friends.
--------------------------------------------------------

The AAC statistics say there are 21.8 climbing fatalities per 100,000 attempts.
Popularity means more people, more people means more accidents. It is just that simple.

We "know" climbing has always been a dangerous sport that lulls people into a false sense of security. This false sense of security is suffered from both experienced climbers and newbies. That is why I always worry about my friends, including Bachar. Remember that all it take is a hold to break, a rusted bolt to pop, a harness to fail, etc. Always be careful my friends, I do love ya'.

AF



sibylle

Trad climber
On the road again!
Oct 19, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
This tragic death shocked my son, Tristan, and me. Tristan and I climbed with James Welton in June at the City of Rocks. He certainly seemed extremely competent and safe (I wouldn't let my son climb with someone who impresses me as unsafe). He also was very pleasant, nice, and gracious. An all-around great guy.


It's especially sad for us because it's the first person with whom Tristan has climbed who died soon thereafter. It's a hard lesson to learn, and one I have been through way too many times.



le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Oct 19, 2008 - 05:27pm PT

Condolences to James' family and friends. RIP brother. Must have been awful for James' partner, and must continue to be awful.

Maybe leave the moralizing about topos and increased deaths to another thread? I don't know, maybe this is the place for them. I don't think so.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 19, 2008 - 05:42pm PT
You are right.
Sorry, just my reaction to such sad news.
Probably a lesson for us all there. Hopefully the analysis of this incident will succeed in isolating the cause.
Sounds like the guy knew what he was doing.
I can think of too many times I've caught myself nearly screwing up big time.
Its easy to slip up.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Oct 19, 2008 - 05:57pm PT

That is the truth, PR.

But for the grace of chance/fortune/god/the weather/my partner/rockfall/etc etc etc ad infinitum, there go we all...

Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
Oct 19, 2008 - 05:59pm PT
Ron, I was not misquoting you or quoting you - as you said above

"while the press release said 6 since '83, only three were technical climbing fatalities to my knowledge" that is 3 deaths in 25 years. This was what was in the SL Tribune today which I was quoting and thought was reasonably accurate give the comments in it.

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