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michaellane
climber
Spokane, WA
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I write like a woman?
Thanks.
--ML
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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So you're saying, that's not a girl's name?
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michaellane
climber
Spokane, WA
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Michael Learned was Mom Walton, I think, back in the 70s, but she's the only female Michael I've ever heard of.
Yes. I think, generally, Michael is considered a boy's name.
--ML
edited for spelling of Ma Walton's name.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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I thought I was michaellane, all one word, like some sort of weird french candian thing.
Does this mean we can't date?
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michaellane
climber
Spokane, WA
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I'll give it a shot ... but you hafta pick up the tab.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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When dirtineye said "OP" he mean Original Poster, i.e. Melissa. (not OP = Omega Pacific)
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Allright, how about Jack in the Box, or Captain D's?
Now if I can just work LEB in here some how...
Bizarro world edit:
At this point, I'd LOVE to be able to bow out gracefully, but I really did mean Omega Pacific.
IF those places don't suit you, how about Burger King?
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michaellane
climber
Spokane, WA
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>>
When dirtineye said "OP" he mean Original Poster, i.e. Melissa. (not OP = Omega Pacific)
>>
Oh ... well, that makes sense.
Does this mean he won't ask me out?
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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No No!! the date is on!!!
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michaellane
climber
Spokane, WA
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The links are hybrid ... the two inner links are 17-4 stainless made by Metal Injection Molding process. The outer link is forged 7000-series aluminum.
The MIM process for the steel provides near-machined strength with the precision and detail of casting.
--ML
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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"We have tested the assembled links for what we call "over-edge" strength"
Not quite as irrelevant as CCH building a flying trapeze in their back yard, but almost.
http://www.aliencamsbycch.com/alien_news.html
Please post back when you have *repeated* the failure. Until then, you don't know anything.
J
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WBraun
climber
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Michael Lane
Thanks for the history of your company and the prisoner workforce. That was pretty cool.
And even cooler that some of them are still working for you after they were released.
Kudos to you, Werner
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michaellane
climber
Spokane, WA
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dirtineye said:
>>>
Allright, how about Jack in the Box, or Captain D's?
Now if I can just work LEB in here some how...
>>>
Bring her along ... I've been wanting to meet Dingus in person ...
--ML
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Bring her along ... I've been wanting to meet Dingus in person ...
Hahaha! Good one.
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michaellane
climber
Spokane, WA
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Forging was tried, but it wasn't capable of the tolerances we required. I'll have to get back with the specific comparison of forged v. MIM strength.
edit: and casting was deliberately abandoned because of strength issues as you note.
--ML
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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""dirtineye said:
>>>
Allright, how about Jack in the Box, or Captain D's?
Now if I can just work LEB in here some how...
>>>
Bring her along ... I've been wanting to meet Dingus in person ...
--ML ""
So, now you want, a threesome?
Do I have to pay DMT/LEB's tab too?
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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For what it's worth, we tested a bunch of our cams and all of our competitor's cams in an off-axis pull while we were developing them. We wanted to know how they performed if the cams were jammed at an angle and then pulled straight. Basically we simulated the placement in this discussion. Our test fixture is a steel box with steel shims that can be stacked to adjust the width. The face plates, the ones that hold the cam, are faced with a variety of rock types and a range of roughness. What we did was put a spacer in the bottom of the box to hold one side of the cam. When the force was applied the cams was essentially fixed at an angle (about 25°) so there were all kinds of weird loads applied. In all cases, the cams were placed at 75% of their maximum range. In other words, a really, really crappy placement.
Surprise, surprise, the Link Cam was the strongest of the bunch and all but one brand went to the cam's minimum rated strength. I won' tell you which cam didn't meet their spec but you could have knocked me over with a feather when I saw the results.
Unfortunately this was just one test, there is no standard for this test and we used a very, very small sample set so the results may not be statistically significant. What I think is significant is that all cams are pretty damn strong when blocked in an off-axis pull. For the most part a cam in a placement like the one in question should hold a good load.
Just another FYI from Malcolm
Climb Safe,
Mal
BTW, we test a lot of cams. When the placements fail--when a cam begins to rip out of the rock--in many cases the cam is then destroyed. It's weird. If you pull test a cam that is placed poorly, say tipped out cam lobes or whatever, more often than not the cam will break as it's being yanked out of the rock. If you didn't watch it as it was being pulled it would be very difficult to tell if the cam broke first and then pulled out or if the cam pulled out and then broke. The picture of that Metolius cam is a great example. I can not tell from the picture which came first, the axle breaking or the placement failing. If that was placed with one pair of cams tipped out and the the other bomber, when the load came it could have easily ripped the end of that axle off.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Stoppers and hexes… I’ve never seen one break… if the cord/sling material is kept in good shape.
And they are less expensive as well.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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bong hits for all !!
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Murf
climber
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Malcolm, chiming in to defend a competitor's product is very cool.
You are a class act!
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