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Robbie
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 15, 2007 - 01:33pm PT
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I really want to get good climbing wide cracks (anything fists and up) in Yosemite, wondering if people can give me some route recommendations to practice on, other than Generator Crack.
Thanks
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WBraun
climber
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May 15, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
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I will recommend that you be crucifixed.
It has it all .....
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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May 15, 2007 - 01:40pm PT
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Wide crack training... So, I finally experienced this "worked until you puke" feeling this weekend! I used to think all you wide crack guys were nucking futs talking like that... F*#k it was awesome! When I came down, I felt like I'd either OD'd on sleeping pills or smoked the biggest bowl in the world. ALL I could think about was falling out and taking a nap! I wanted desperately to get the harness, elbow and knee pad off (neoprene) and while it didn't seem tough, it was very slow going getting that stuff off. After I rested, got some cool water on my face and thought I felt OK, I bent over to shoulder my pack and did a little dry heaving! Nice!
Check this site for all you need to know about Yosemite offwidths:
http://www.monsteroffwidth.com/climbing-misc/yosemiteoffwidths/YosemiteOffwidths.html
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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May 15, 2007 - 02:09pm PT
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Ditto on the Moby Dick Center & Ahab.
Camp 4 Wall: Doggie Do, and the first pitch of the route just right of Doggie Do which is about a 5.7ish squeeze. Can TR either of these by walking to the top.
Camp 4 boulders, opposite the Wine Boulder is a 5.9 OW formed where two boulders almost touch. There was an old single bolt 1/4" 'er up there for TR'ing that I pulled about a month ago. (square nut broke off with my fingers). On the other side of this (basically the inside of the "crack") is a 5.8ish squeeze. You can walk around the boulder or crawl through a cave like feature just behind the Dominator to reach the squeeze.
Chingando.
3rd pitch of Reeds Direct. Reed's left side.
Copper Penny @ Five and Dime.
Central Pillar has some easy wide on p1 and p3.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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May 15, 2007 - 02:18pm PT
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I did Central Pillar on Sunday... The "wide" in the first pitch is pretty easy, due to all of the stuff on the face. Still a good sized snow cone at the base, btw. The wide on the third - basically a hike! It's so low angle. I think the second pitch is the quality pitch on that route, for sure. Although the roof, on the third is pretty cool!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 15, 2007 - 03:54pm PT
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welcome to the club Nefa! once you go wide...
disclaimer: I am providing this list but whether or not you go out and try these crazy ass climbs is your decision, not mine. I have not done all of these, but I will.
ok, in the Yellow Meyers' guide:
the 5.9 list:
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Application
Chimney & Flairs Entrance Exam
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Cookie Right/Center
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Infraction
Offwidth (3 1/2" to 8") The Cleft
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Pot Belly
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Arlington Height's
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Reed's Direct
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Flatus
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Grape Nuts
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Highway Star
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Peter Pan
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Moby Dick, Center
Chimney & Flairs Moby Dick, Left
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Maple Jam
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Doggie Diversions
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Lancelot
Offwidth (3 1/2" to 8") Apron Jam
Hand & Fist (1.5" to 3") Resurrection
the 5.10a list:
Banana Dreams
Cookie, Left
This and That
Nothing Special (Mongolian Clusterf*#k)
Chingando
Reed's Pinnacle, Left
Bong's Away, Center
Hourglass, Right
Gollum, Left
Orange Juice Avenue
Secret Storm
Doggie Do
Geek Towers, Center
Geek Towers, Right
Worst Error, Right
Crack of Doom
Crack of Dispair
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Robbie
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2007 - 11:52am PT
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Thanks for the recommendations. those should keep me busy for while!
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michaelj
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 16, 2007 - 11:59am PT
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Where is Chingando? I couldn't find it in ST.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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May 16, 2007 - 12:03pm PT
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Chingando is in the Reed's area. You won't find most of these climbs in ST. Wide cracks aren't cool or popular. They're physical and hard work, lots of pain and suffering, which isn't what most people buying ST are looking for.
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michaelj
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 16, 2007 - 01:36pm PT
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What's it next to on Reed's that might serve as a reference in finding it?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 16, 2007 - 01:46pm PT
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Orange Juice Ave is a good introductory .10a OW,
easy to pro and knott too long. A great way to
get the feel of OW on lead.
A step up is Vendetta on the Cookie, .10b and longer.
I think my buddy shoved a #5 WC up the whole thing; I
don't think you need the bigger #6. The book talks
about a wild 3rd pitch. I thought this was a typo
because the 2nd is where the OW lies. I was wrong...
the 3rd is wild! A great 3 pitch romp.
EDIT: Chingando [what the heck does that mean anyway?]
is on the left side or Reed's, a few hundred feet left
of Reed's proper. It's next to the Iota, can't miss it.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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report in Robbie! bump
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 21, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
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Chingando is actually in the face of the Iota not in Reed's.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 21, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
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Wyde wednesday style bump
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Professor
Trad climber
Logan, UT
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For easier (but still worthwhile) chimneys I like the second pitch of Hanging Teeth, but Church Bowl Chimney is worth a look too IMO (don't let the easy grade fool you, though it isn't too bad). And, as someone mentioned above, the first pitch of Doggie Diversions is a super nice 5.7 squeeze.
For OW I love setting a rope on Doggie Do. It always seems to feel hard out of the gate, but after a few laps your technique gets better and it isn't so bad. Trial by fire is a super fun lead, and feels about the same in approach shoes ;) Oh, and I was a little surprised how awkward Uncle Fanny felt last time I was on it (but maybe I'm getting soft).
Hope to see you all on these climbs this spring!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Chingando, according to Chuck Pratt, means "Motherf*#ker."
Here's a telephoto taken from above the Wawona Tunnel. The route is obvious.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Come to Indian Creek, Chingando wouldn't even get a second look there.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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for hand and fist don't forget goldrush. easy to throw a tr on it and run laps.
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Chingando [what the heck does that mean anyway?]
I'm the last person you'd go to for advice on wide, but at least I can use my experience working and living in Mexico to answer a five-year old question, and clarify what Brokendownclimber just said.
"chingando" comes from the verb "chingar", but you won't find it in proper dictionaries. It's a commonly used vulgar term, meaning "to f*ck". Chingando is the present participle of the verb.
An example:
El jefe de Juan esta chingando a todo.
English translation:
John's boss is f*cking up everything.
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Just look in the Reid guide for anything that says OW. Get on all of them you can. Start with the easy graded ones and do all of them. Then move up a grade and so on. If you continue this for the rest of your life you will get the hang of it.
DOSXX,
I believe Chuck Pratt was "just f*#king around" when he put up Chingando. Later on that same summer he FA'd Twilight Zone.
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