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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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May 10, 2007 - 12:21pm PT
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Please do knott tell me that was a factor-2 fall right onto the belay!
If so, no wonder they went home...
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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May 10, 2007 - 12:39pm PT
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There's no mention of Bachar/Yerian in the Wolfgang Gullich biography (Tilmann Hepp,'93),
and I've read it cover-to-cover at least twice. Does anyone know if he ever climbed it?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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May 10, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
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Wow, great thread! Especially enjoyed the Alan Nelson article, and the great photos. That fall photo really puckered me!
Any chance of getting someone to scan and post the Schneider article to this thread? HK? I'd love to read that.
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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May 10, 2007 - 12:54pm PT
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Curiosity. How many time has John B. done it ?
I know Waugh, for a while there, was trying to do it once a summer, IIRC.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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May 10, 2007 - 12:54pm PT
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Let me see if I can dig it up the Steve Schneider article in Climbing mag. BTW, I saw his
slide show a couple weeks ago, perhaps I should have asked him about it.
I'm pretty sure he bagged the 2nd ascent.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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May 10, 2007 - 01:08pm PT
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I think Waugh has only done the B&Y twice, maybe 3 times. He has started up it with other people other times but had them bail. He did used to do You Asked for It every year until he biffed off it and cracked his noggin open when he took the giant whipper.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 10, 2007 - 01:39pm PT
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photo caption (Wolfgang on p1) from High Life, Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, 1988, p.75 [for a scan of the photo see my post #90 below]:
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Wolfgang Güllich in der berüchtigten "Run-out"-Route "Bachar-Yerian" (5.11b).
Trotz der unvermutet brechenden Nobben betragen die Bohrhakenabstände bis zu zehn Meter.
Selbst Jerry Moffat legte hier einen Fünfzehn-Meter-Sturtz ein.
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Wolfgang Güllich on the notorious "run out" route "Bachar Yerian" (5.11b).
Despite the unexpectedly breaking nobs, the distances between bolts are up ten meters.
Even Jerry Moffat took a fifteen meter fall here.
(translated with help from babelfish)
I thought I read he was climbing with Kurt Albert, but of course since John was there and said it was Theirry Renault, he knows. I do recall reading that Wolfgang got pulled up into the rock/bolts holding the whipper and trashed his knuckles, so he couldn't give p2 a go at that time.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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May 10, 2007 - 02:02pm PT
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"He did used to do You Asked for It every year until he biffed off it and cracked his noggin open when he took the giant whipper. "
As his (then) 10 year old told me: "My dad asked for it, and he got it."
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thesiger
Trad climber
A desert kingdom
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May 10, 2007 - 02:10pm PT
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Pretty sure Gullich in fact did the B-Y, not surprising since he learned to climb in the Elbsandstein, where the only crack pro allowed was wedged rope knots between the odd widely spaced bolt.
You're confusing Gullich with Kurt Albert, I think. Gullich was a West German.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 10, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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I didn't find a profile article for Steve Schneider in Climbing, but I was just looking at the indice that go up through issue #219. In his "Sea of Domes" article about Tuolumne in Climbing #127 (1991), though, he has a nice long description of the first ascent. I could scan or type it in later [see later post below].
He doesn't describe his second ascent in that article, except in a brief mention at the end.
He did include a short description of the Gullich and Renault attempt:
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Germany's Wolfgang Gullich and Thierry Renault of France attempted the route in 1982 as well. Gullich fell on the big runout on pitch one but was saved from decking on the slab by a knob he had tied off. Renault's go-for-it attitude on the second pitch resulted in successive falls of 30, 40, and 50 feet. The two retreated.
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Nice 2-page pull-out poster shot of Bachar and Schultz on the B-Y by Chris Falkenstein to go with the article.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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May 10, 2007 - 03:19pm PT
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Yeah thats the article. With the tied-off knob. Great story of the 2nd ascent.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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May 10, 2007 - 03:23pm PT
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Clint wrote:
In his "Sea of Domes" article about Tuolumne in Climbing #127 (1991), though, he has a nice long description of the first ascent. I could scan or type it in later.
That would be killer if you could reproduce it for us!
Thanks for the info on Wolfgang Gullich and Thierry Renault.
That must have been a sight to see...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 10, 2007 - 03:23pm PT
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Alright, I am announcing a milestone of sorts. After reading this thread and studying the photos, I am officially taking the B-Y off my tick list. No offense intended, John.
Buzz
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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May 10, 2007 - 03:29pm PT
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Knott a 'big send' story, but...
Peter Carrick from Santa Cruz once told me a story of him going up on the BY but not paying any attention to the weather. He gets up P.1, brings up his partner, then seemingly out of nowhere they get pummelled from a storm that'd brewed up Tenaya Canyon. They rap and literally crawl back to the road where it is raining so hard that they have to open the driver's side door just to find the lines on the road to navigate back to camp.
Fair warning, if the run-outs don't get you, hypothermia might.
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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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May 10, 2007 - 03:41pm PT
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aldude wrote: "1986 - Epperson photo shoot (Climbing Calendar shot)"
Pulled that pic out of the calendar years and years ago and it has resided on my bedroom wall ever since. My wife knows it is the holy grail that is not to be moved.
That pic of the Bachar/Yerian and the pic of Kurt on Blackout (came out on the same calendar? or the following year?) made a huge impression upon my young mind in 1986/87. To this day, I still refer to these pics/routes when telling people why I climb. Will probably never climb either route, but it's the ideal to me.
Thanks John and Kurt!
burp
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CF
climber
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May 10, 2007 - 04:18pm PT
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Bachar and Schultz 1991?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 10, 2007 - 05:49pm PT
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Jim,
Thanks for finding the second ascent story and sharing it!
I don't think Bachar rated it sustained 5.11, at least not originally. The topo in Chris' (Reid & Falkenstein) 1983 guidebook has it as 5.10d, with p1 5.10d, p2 unrated, p3 5.10d, p4 5.8 and p5 unrated. In the 1986 edition, it's 5.11b with p1 5.11b, p2 5.10c, p3 5.10c, p4 5.8, p5 5.9. The individual moves on p2 are not harder than 5.10c, but a rating to include the pump/endurance factor is higher, depending on how well you can "rest" on that terrain! And I don't mean to ignore p1 - I just can't compare it myself because it has always been dark by the time I rap down to it!
Chris,
Thanks for sharing your awesome photo(s) of the climb.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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May 10, 2007 - 05:57pm PT
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Chris, thanks for posting up another great photo. Have you been up the thing?
How's the new route you did on N. Wizz a couple years ago?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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May 10, 2007 - 06:02pm PT
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So what's the Schneider route just left of the B&Y? Has it had a second? I have done Shipoopi but the other route looks WAY harder. We watched a couple taking big whippers off it 2 years ago when we were working on Pretty in Pink Point and it turned out they thought they were on Shipoopi. They eventually gave up and came back the next day to get on the correct route.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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May 10, 2007 - 06:11pm PT
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Del Cross - thanks for posting that up! My hands are fuçking sweating after reading that;
good thing I'm holding an ice-cold Full Sail Pale Ale to cool 'em down. Holy shit!
Another great photo, CF.
Damn, is this knott the best thread ever?
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