Bachar-Yerrian????

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 234 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Dog

climber
May 9, 2007 - 04:27pm PT
....this has always been a route I wanted to do. Cannot hardly imagine doing it now. Still have the poster hanging in the shop taunting me.


Good Job to you who have pulled this one off!



Will
Walleye

climber
The Land of the Big Stone
May 9, 2007 - 04:43pm PT
80 foot runout? That's nothing for the Iron Monkey. Bad bad bad!!!

Aldude: the photo of which you speaketh?


Photo: Greg Epperson

One of my very favorite climbing photos ever by virtue of friend, location, history, composition of body position and color.
Bad Fu#%*ng Ass!!!!
Anastasia

Trad climber
California
May 9, 2007 - 04:55pm PT
Beware...
If this climb is "easy" like Bachar claims, more people would be on it.
Walleye

climber
The Land of the Big Stone
May 9, 2007 - 05:03pm PT
Well if there were bolts every 8 feet more people would be on it, that's for sure. Routes like this seprate the girls from the women. Also to note, I believe this was an EB route was it not? Now I wanna hear some stories about Body And Soul.. Aldude, were you belaying Dave went he went for the monster air on that?
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
May 9, 2007 - 05:05pm PT
I understand that this route sent Wolfgang Gullich packing after a huge fall, and if I'm
knott mistaken, he did a lot of early repeats of Yosemite testpieces, knott to mention
that on 4 different occasions in his life, he had the FA of the hardest route in the world.
Gotta be the most under-appreciated climber of all time, to be sure.

I would like to hear more about his B/Y attempt!
Bart Fay

Social climber
Redlands, CA
May 9, 2007 - 05:36pm PT
Howzabout the excellent story about Lynn, Woodward, & ??Clune?? on the B-Y. That was a hoot.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
May 9, 2007 - 05:41pm PT
Maybe add the Frenchman, Marc LeMenstrual too..... whipper?
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Knob Central
May 9, 2007 - 05:48pm PT
I always wanted to do it and started training for it one year. I had the knob climbing down and was working on my head when I got on Tune Up on Dozier Dome. After the 3 40 foot runouts in a row on 10b second pitch I decided I would be happy if I never got 40 feet out again and kind of gave up on ever leading the thing.

Now days I think about rapping in and top roping each pitch working my way down. That way if I can't do the crux first pitch it won't matter as much.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 9, 2007 - 06:19pm PT
Wow, cool stories, Kurt and Al!

There's a great article in the 1984 AAJ, "The Path of the Master - Tuolumne" by Alan Nelson, where he and Rob Oravetz tried to get the second ascents of a couple of John Bachar testpieces. They did manage to get You Asked for It, but failed on the Bachar-Yerian. It includes a brief mention of the attempt by Wolfgang Gullich and Kurt Albert [Edit: not Kurt Albert, but Theirry Renault - see later posts](aka "european party").
Check it out:

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1984/109_nelson_tuolumne_aaj1984.pdf
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 9, 2007 - 06:24pm PT
Jan/Gnome,

I have tried toproping the second pitch of the Bachar-Yerian twice, after doing Shambles and Shipoopi and rappelling diagonally to it. I think on my best try, I fell/hung 5 times. For fun, we calculated how far I would have gone if had been on lead. The minimum was 50 feet. Most of the time the bolts are out of sight, somewhere up above! There are not any technically very hard moves on this pitch, but it's steep so you have to be able to efficiently weight your feet and move along so you don't pump out in the middle of nowhere like I did.
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
May 9, 2007 - 08:00pm PT
I always enjoyed the profile on Steve Schneider in Climbing from the mid-90's that included a detailed account of the 2nd ascent of the BnY.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
May 9, 2007 - 08:21pm PT
I have that issue, but don't remember a detailed account of the ascent, just that he did it.
jerr

climber
May 9, 2007 - 08:24pm PT
How were the bolts placed on BY? From stance? Hooks?
Walleye

climber
The Land of the Big Stone
May 9, 2007 - 08:26pm PT
Both I think. A few hooks definitely, not sure about the stance part. Johnny rock can illuminate further.
CF

climber
May 9, 2007 - 08:42pm PT
Here are some shots of Burke on then BY. I zoomed in and could see maybe one bolt he has clipped in the photos. John Harpo belaying. You should have seen the pre climb ritual.



Burke flashing the peace sign.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
May 9, 2007 - 10:02pm PT
Yes!!! Walleye!!

Belayed Schnieder on a Body and Soul attempt. He did it one week later with Barbella belaying. Another superb route!

Tierry Renault (fra.) took a 60 footer and broke ankles/wrist

John - you should tell the Moffat story.....

CF- nice shots!
Walleye

climber
The Land of the Big Stone
May 9, 2007 - 10:28pm PT
Aw, poor little French guy.......

EDIT: Aw poor little German guy.... AW poor little British guy..

Any others?
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
May 9, 2007 - 10:37pm PT
Awesome photos, you guys. Thanks for posting!
yo

climber
The Eye of the Snail
May 9, 2007 - 10:43pm PT
Yeah. Crikey that thing is steeper than I thought.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
May 9, 2007 - 10:45pm PT
The 2nd photo looks slightly tilted (look at the trees), but still steep!
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