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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 2, 2006 - 07:54pm PT
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hahaha, this is me, shot by, well, can't really say.
we use this for warming up or pumping out, go up then down (Callie, you listening?) til you fall off or give up.
In the old days, people went up two more moves and traversed off right and scrambled down, now they drop off from where I am in the last pic and hit a pad. Only I never use no stinking pad on this one, unless some other people have put theirs down. Usually downclimb it anyway. Have climbed it in waldies, it's trivial if you have any footwork and body torque.
Post up your bouldering sequences.
thanks to the sickened one.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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I'll play.
Here's one of Kevin Jorgesen. Not easy but fun.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Nice looking rock ! Where is it? The one with holes....I know where the other one is.
I sure love bouldering... I'm gonna' have to get me one of them pad things...
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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haha, good luck with that jb.
I'm thinking the market of potential "superhighballers" like yourself is too small to lead to proper pad R&D for such an undertaking.
Maybe one of these?
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2006 - 10:26pm PT
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John BACKer,
(pronunciaton courtesy of Ekat/Blinny, without the first two invisible sylables she likes to include)
The rock with the holes, known as the heart problem, (see the two hearts) is in Alabama, Moss Rock Preserve, where allegedly once upon a time, way way back in the way back machine, Gill climbed, on Shades Mountain. In the city of Hoover, formerly Bluff Park.
The rock is high quality southern sand stone, not the hardest we have, but extremely hard. There are a lot of good highballs there, one V6, Adam X Slab, and one V8, Double CLutch, also by Adam Henry, in particular, that you might really like.
There are also a few high quality V0,1,2, and 3 highballs in addition to regular Boulder problems.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2006 - 10:28pm PT
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Jer, great shot in spiet of the tricksy stuff, LOL.
Spill the goods! Is that your 24 mm? With a polarizer, or skylight? Name that film you photo-dog!
Enquiring minds want to KNOW!
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Dam nice rock!....sandstone's my favorite. Gotta get down there one of these days.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Downclimbing is easy on stuff that is easy to go up on. I frequently do laps on easy sh%t. Up, down, up, down, etc. The game changes when you are climbing at your limit. Reversing these moves is often not possible. Many here have posted regarding positions they've gotten themselves in that they felt they could not reverse. For example, check out page 53 of Arno's book to see where he was unable to downclimb and instead took a nasty fall on Stone Moutain.
That said, I could easily downclimb anything *you* could climb Dirt. Neener. neener.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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"Beaver, now what have we told you about too much downclimbing?"
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2006 - 08:45am PT
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Author:
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
From: St. Louis Downclimbing is easy on stuff that is easy to go up on. I frequently do laps on easy sh%t. Up, down, up, down, etc. The game changes when you are climbing at your limit. Reversing these moves is often not possible. Many here have posted regarding positions they've gotten themselves in that they felt they could not reverse. For example, check out page 53 of Arno's book to see where he was unable to downclimb and instead took a nasty fall on Stone Moutain.
That said, I could easily downclimb anything *you* could climb Dirt. Neener. neener. ""
SOunds like you should put your big guns where your mouth is, Oh crimpestuous one!!! I hear a challenge. GIme a little time to get well, then it's Downclimb at high noon, no holds barred caged grudge match-- downclimbin at its finest!!!
I've downclimbed much harder stuff than that old chessnut in the pics, LOL, that one really is easy.
I'll have to ask Arno about the bit in the book. YOu know I can't read, stop rubbing it in!!!!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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You've downclimbed V0+? Bwahahahahaaaa
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2006 - 08:52am PT
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DIngus, that is a fine southenr spot you gave your pal Angus!!!
NOW tell the truth, did you or did you not move the pad?
John BACKer, yes, you would love the rock in the south, HP-e0, LRC, Rock Town, and that;s jsut a few of the great Boouler fields.
Teh BSF lies in wait for anyone who dares to free it's walls, LOL!
Steg n Okel on the second ascent of Under the Bigtop, second pitch, the crux pitch. Shot from the O& W bridge. This is not the tallest or hardest or most beautiful section of the O & W wall. the crus of Under the Bigtop has not gone free... YET!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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if you scroll fast enough through the first photos you can make dirt climb.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Hey John. For your kind of bouldering you need a maxi pad. Here's one that has wings just in case you need them. It offers maximum protection and is always there when you need it. Cheap too: Just $16.74
;-0
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2006 - 01:14am PT
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I do not 'claim' to be downclimbing anything.
I DO downclimb v0, v1, v2, and v3 and V4 with regularity, well, I DID before I got sick.
It is no big deal. YOU just ahve to practice.
I'm sure any good trad climber who climbed trad that is similar to v4 coudl do it.
I'm sure some of these guys here can downclimb much harder stuff.
When I get well, I'll go back to wrking on hrder downclimbs.
I'll post another one tomorrow that I can run up and down, it's a liottle harder than the overhang, but not by much.
Oh yeah Crimpestuous one, that overhang, I cna go up and down that thing in waldies, you know, the clown shues.
Still no big deal though.
Some of the boulder punks I know campus up and down it, which as bob said is bad for the rock.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2006 - 09:06am PT
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Some boudlerers thiink v3 or 4 is 5.12, LOL! could be, I doubt it, they don't really compare. Some of my friends who are solid 5.11 trad guys boulder v5 and v6. I don't think I care about comparing, I do absolutely feel that static bouldering makes a MUCH better trad climber.
but about comparing...
Hell Jtree rock does not compare to my sandstone, LOL no way woudl I try any Jtree 11, without working my way though the grades, adn it would take a lot for me to feel good on that crumblecrap you guys call rock.
Crumblecrap!! Another new Dirtword!!! Dirtword, yet anohter!! HAHA I crack me up!
Course, some dedicated Jtree hot shot could come here and might be overjoyed to find all the solid rock and great placements, if they could hang on to make em.
I'm not a rock snob, but I sure feel better on stuff I'm used to, adn some other rock, I just hate, and don't want to climb on.
Frankly, I think southern sandstone is LOT more user friendly than anything else. The climbs may be difficult sometimes, but they are not usually treacherous.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2006 - 09:26am PT
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Hwew iA another EASY v0 or v1, some wish it were v2. I've downclimbed this a lot, gone up it so much it is like gymnastics not climbing, LOL. I do a little dynamic movement in a big hurry, sort of a super double dead point , NOT a dyno!!! LOL, this is really atypical for me, I almost always climb very slowly and statically.
It;s amusing to see my ass sticking out like that at the top, LOL at least there are jugs at that point.
But I bet I've done this problem 100 times, it's maybe my favorite. Done it in trail shoes. Done it wet. it's still fun!
No, I don't haae a pot belly there, that's gloves, wallet, and cell phone LOL.
Incidentally, I use the same holds goling down as going up. the frog posture spot is the crux, to get from there to the gaston going up)is all you really have to do, as long as you use the gaston correctly, and lean left and parallel to the wall on it, and don't try to pull (out. The rest is really trivial.
The first time I ever did this problem, I had a carebiner in my pocket. as I started up, already past the hard part, that little two inch rooflet caught the biner, and all upward progress stopped cold, LOL! Down I go, for the only time I ever came off this problem. LOL it was pretty funny.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2006 - 12:47pm PT
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Riely, v4 may indeed be a 5.12b crux, but I have sen so many V4 boudler punkc flail on a 5.7 route, same for sprot clibmers on 5.8 or 9 serious trad, that wnhen they say, "got any 5.11 trad?" I KNOW to put them on a pet 5.8 thate none have ever finished without a hang or fall.
Routes are different, LOL.
Now, your v8 or 9 average climb guys,the ones I know anyway, they can flash little river canyon 5.12 and call it easy, but they are young strong as crap, adn have placed high in national events of bouldering
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Back in the mix
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Comparing the Vgrade to the YDS is oxymoronic at best. V5 may be the "equivalent" of a mid 5.12 route but 99.9% of the time the V5 will have more difficult moves, while the mid 5.12 will have more "easier" moves stacked together in a continuous manner.
Obviously, super boldery routes and one move wonders will be the exception but these routes are generally 5.13 anyway.
Apples and Oranges.
I've downclimbed multiple Vhard problems by falling off at the crux.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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I have my dukes up and am ready to rumble....
:)
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