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Bovine
Social climber
flatlands
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2006 - 09:43am PT
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golsen,
Yep, that was me on the beast. Any idea what year that was?
Here is one that you Cali folks might be able to figure out if your hard...Chad Shepard climbing out the roof on the second pitch of???
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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May 24, 2006 - 09:48am PT
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Boa?
I prefer shinies in my roofs...
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kubko
climber
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May 24, 2006 - 09:52am PT
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Hey Loomis, is that Strecha slovenska? It was my first aid climb!
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Bovine
Social climber
flatlands
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2006 - 10:18am PT
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426 With a Ding Ding Ding!!!! Boa up in Tuolumne...
What about this classic? I'm sure no one will get this due to the MEGA approach...
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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May 24, 2006 - 10:37am PT
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bovine, thats the bad moki roof, potash(?).
BTW, that pic of you was from about 92 or 93. Whats wrong, dont you recognize the young you? hahahaha
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 24, 2006 - 10:45am PT
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That pic of Boa was in the mags. One of the all time "WTF?" climbing pictures.
Does any route go out that "3-pitches" long roof?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 24, 2006 - 10:52am PT
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stellar pic of Boa.
sheesh, now we know how to do it.
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Bovine
Social climber
flatlands
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2006 - 10:52am PT
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golsen, yep, bad moki, potash.
And that aid roof in the first pic IS some classy Missouri Limestone. One of a few crags we discovered after you moved back out west.
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MikeL
climber
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May 24, 2006 - 10:54am PT
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Jaybro, Ignorable Cliffs are at the Pinnacles Monument.
-MikeL
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 24, 2006 - 11:09am PT
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anyone ever talk to anyone who has climbed Boa?
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WBraun
climber
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May 24, 2006 - 11:10am PT
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I tried it and failed.
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Loomis
climber
Praha, Ceska Republika
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May 24, 2006 - 12:15pm PT
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k-man, kubko answered your question, the cave is being worked and
some of the old aid routes are being tried free. It is the largest cave in Europe.
Kubko, jsi slovak a co robis? bydlis v Slovensko? poslias mi emailu prosim.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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May 24, 2006 - 12:23pm PT
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whoa, funky double post action above for me. dunno why.
Ignorable Cliffs are at Pinnacles National Monument, East District.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 24, 2006 - 12:29pm PT
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Palisadse park, AL, ethereal cathedral or right next to it, 10+. The roof at the top is more than 20 feet of horizontals, at mostly 45 degrees, the topout (onto a flat slab) is the crux. eats big/middlesized gear, 2 friends to 3 or 4 camelshots for the roof section. there is a COOL rockcentric # 9 placement in the middle of the roof.
Same venue, picking pockets, 5.7, slim gear at the facey part, non-trivial route finding if you can believe that. Pretty much everyone gets sucked right and then they have to go back down to the ledge above the second little roof and rethink.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 24, 2006 - 02:35pm PT
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Werner,did you do the face pitch approach? (I've heard tell of a rap-in scheme.)
I've never been to Boa.
One time, on the slide show benches, Walt got into one of his wild pantomimes, this time about climbing it that way (someone had told him) with the opposed armbars.
Schneider looked at him and said,
"Doubtful."
Then later I saw that weird photo.
I shouldn't be surprised at anything, anymore.
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Bovine
Social climber
flatlands
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2006 - 02:47pm PT
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Jaybro,
That shot is of Chad Shepard. I don't think he pulled it off (Boa) during his attempt in the photo. His partner, Sean Kriletich led the scary face route up to and below Boa, heard it was super nuts-ee. I beleive during the time of this particular photo that Sean finished it out after Chad had givin' it a few good go's. Don't remeber what was said about the double opposing arm bars, but I do remember some funny looks and chuckles about it. I know they did'nt do the rap-in approch...
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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May 24, 2006 - 03:35pm PT
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426,
hit the library this spring
great area, no one around..... will return
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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May 24, 2006 - 04:09pm PT
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Jaybro/Werner,
Regarding Boa, talk to Bob Harrington. He belayed Kevin Leary on the first ascent. He could could retell the story better, but it was even harder for him with his height. Pirouette is the other rad one from that time on the same cliff. Pull those off and you're bonafide BAD ASS!!!
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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May 24, 2006 - 05:10pm PT
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Western KY. Local spray puts it at 13a. Only 2 ascents I think, some guy trained on a roof crack machine for like 6 months to bag it.
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jtanzman
climber
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May 24, 2006 - 08:36pm PT
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Nice...drop-knee, eh?
Jay
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