Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 76 of total 76 in this topic |
Bovine
Social climber
flatlands
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 23, 2006 - 01:48pm PT
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I figured at least a few of you out there are facinated by those few and far between roof climbs. If you have any pics, please post up!
Owl Roof A3, 165' totally Horizontal!
And a view looking straight up at owl roof from below (the red rope is the tag line)
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 23, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
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COOL!
MORE!
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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May 23, 2006 - 03:23pm PT
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bovine? Is that thar one of dem Missouri roofs? I dun hurd tell of dat...
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wyJames
Mountain climber
Dripping Spring, Tx
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May 23, 2006 - 06:09pm PT
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D-n-I
Do you happen to have a picture of Champagne Jam? I learned to climb at Sandrock when I was young and that route was like an inspiration to us.
Cheers, James
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 23, 2006 - 08:54pm PT
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 23, 2006 - 09:19pm PT
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I do not have a pic of CJ, but I have a friend who did try very hard to climb it, LOL. I think they finally got it, but that sandrock shyte is rough stuff on the hands. Last time I was there there was a fixed something or other in the crack, further out than I will ever get, haha.
There is also a 12 hand crack roof, VERY high up, Suicide Direct I believe the name is, in the BSF that some guys in NC freed recently, it is brutal looking, like Arno's Don Juan only much longer.
I might be able to snag a pic of a short but wide roof crack in a hidden secret place in NC called CHossy MOuntain, that I took a fall on before figuring out, but it is only a ten or so, and goes free very well.
Wish I had a pic of the short roof on Supergumbiewannabe, no crack, short roof (full horizontal extension will get you from wall to edge) it is also a cool move to make, with such a nice finger lock crossing over at your waist as you lock your foot in a hole at the back wall, and reach out around the lip.
Damn I need pics of these.
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Loomis
climber
Praha, Ceska Republika
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May 23, 2006 - 09:25pm PT
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This roof is 3 pitches long!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 23, 2006 - 09:48pm PT
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I liked that one when you (or somone) posted it before. What (and where) is the story?
Dirt- sounds cool, waiting for photos. .12 handcrack roofs are about as cool as it gets.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 23, 2006 - 09:59pm PT
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Jaybro, turning that rounded lip looks like it might be really hard and insecure, is it?
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JP
Trad climber
Quebec
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May 23, 2006 - 10:17pm PT
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Wow!!! where is that Owl Roof???
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Elcapinyoazz
Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
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May 23, 2006 - 10:21pm PT
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Champagne Jam is a bizzatch. Tape or die. That bitch be pull of pebbles. Like boxing a bag of broken glass. Tried it one day, got about to the lip on the first go and said "screw this POS". Never went back.
I got some pics from back in the day on a Rob-Rob route called Raiders of the Lost Arch at Sunset. Spectacular feature. Climb up a short approach pitch to the money...about 18' of horizontal roof splitting this wacky arch. You can barely see it from the trail when the leaves are out. Kind of a weird arch, hard to explain but it barely has clearance in the back to make it a true arch.
Lots of killer roofage in the deep south. Only got to taste a samplin in the mid 90s. Crazy hot in that part of the country though.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 23, 2006 - 10:32pm PT
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Yup, Dirt, seems like the lip is always the crux. except on the monkey roof, that one saves the fun for later.
The second photo, is of a route called Squat 11d/12a, in an area near vedauwoo known as the roof Ranch. There's another climb there that's about the same size roof, though thinner and harder but rated easier. I wish I had a photo of that one.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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May 23, 2006 - 11:47pm PT
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Roofs were never my thing, or cracks or face or slab or aid! But I have been caught on a couple. Arkansas Reality
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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May 23, 2006 - 11:50pm PT
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This aint much of a roof but here is bovine himself I think on the second ascent of the Beast.(I think thats the Beast, bovine? First its your memory then what?)
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 24, 2006 - 01:25am PT
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Feast of Fools, Gunks.
Beatle Brow Bulge, Gunks.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 24, 2006 - 01:31am PT
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HEy Rgold, how is that arrete to the right of the big roof?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 24, 2006 - 08:51am PT
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Nice sequence, where are the ignorable cliffs?
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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May 24, 2006 - 09:09am PT
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Anyone ever "study up" in the Stephen King Library?
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Bovine
Social climber
flatlands
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2006 - 09:43am PT
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golsen,
Yep, that was me on the beast. Any idea what year that was?
Here is one that you Cali folks might be able to figure out if your hard...Chad Shepard climbing out the roof on the second pitch of???
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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May 24, 2006 - 09:48am PT
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Boa?
I prefer shinies in my roofs...
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kubko
climber
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May 24, 2006 - 09:52am PT
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Hey Loomis, is that Strecha slovenska? It was my first aid climb!
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Bovine
Social climber
flatlands
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2006 - 10:18am PT
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426 With a Ding Ding Ding!!!! Boa up in Tuolumne...
What about this classic? I'm sure no one will get this due to the MEGA approach...
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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May 24, 2006 - 10:37am PT
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bovine, thats the bad moki roof, potash(?).
BTW, that pic of you was from about 92 or 93. Whats wrong, dont you recognize the young you? hahahaha
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 24, 2006 - 10:45am PT
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That pic of Boa was in the mags. One of the all time "WTF?" climbing pictures.
Does any route go out that "3-pitches" long roof?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 24, 2006 - 10:52am PT
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stellar pic of Boa.
sheesh, now we know how to do it.
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Bovine
Social climber
flatlands
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2006 - 10:52am PT
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golsen, yep, bad moki, potash.
And that aid roof in the first pic IS some classy Missouri Limestone. One of a few crags we discovered after you moved back out west.
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MikeL
climber
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May 24, 2006 - 10:54am PT
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Jaybro, Ignorable Cliffs are at the Pinnacles Monument.
-MikeL
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 24, 2006 - 11:09am PT
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anyone ever talk to anyone who has climbed Boa?
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WBraun
climber
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May 24, 2006 - 11:10am PT
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I tried it and failed.
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Loomis
climber
Praha, Ceska Republika
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May 24, 2006 - 12:15pm PT
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k-man, kubko answered your question, the cave is being worked and
some of the old aid routes are being tried free. It is the largest cave in Europe.
Kubko, jsi slovak a co robis? bydlis v Slovensko? poslias mi emailu prosim.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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May 24, 2006 - 12:23pm PT
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whoa, funky double post action above for me. dunno why.
Ignorable Cliffs are at Pinnacles National Monument, East District.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 24, 2006 - 12:29pm PT
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Palisadse park, AL, ethereal cathedral or right next to it, 10+. The roof at the top is more than 20 feet of horizontals, at mostly 45 degrees, the topout (onto a flat slab) is the crux. eats big/middlesized gear, 2 friends to 3 or 4 camelshots for the roof section. there is a COOL rockcentric # 9 placement in the middle of the roof.
Same venue, picking pockets, 5.7, slim gear at the facey part, non-trivial route finding if you can believe that. Pretty much everyone gets sucked right and then they have to go back down to the ledge above the second little roof and rethink.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 24, 2006 - 02:35pm PT
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Werner,did you do the face pitch approach? (I've heard tell of a rap-in scheme.)
I've never been to Boa.
One time, on the slide show benches, Walt got into one of his wild pantomimes, this time about climbing it that way (someone had told him) with the opposed armbars.
Schneider looked at him and said,
"Doubtful."
Then later I saw that weird photo.
I shouldn't be surprised at anything, anymore.
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Bovine
Social climber
flatlands
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2006 - 02:47pm PT
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Jaybro,
That shot is of Chad Shepard. I don't think he pulled it off (Boa) during his attempt in the photo. His partner, Sean Kriletich led the scary face route up to and below Boa, heard it was super nuts-ee. I beleive during the time of this particular photo that Sean finished it out after Chad had givin' it a few good go's. Don't remeber what was said about the double opposing arm bars, but I do remember some funny looks and chuckles about it. I know they did'nt do the rap-in approch...
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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May 24, 2006 - 03:35pm PT
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426,
hit the library this spring
great area, no one around..... will return
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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May 24, 2006 - 04:09pm PT
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Jaybro/Werner,
Regarding Boa, talk to Bob Harrington. He belayed Kevin Leary on the first ascent. He could could retell the story better, but it was even harder for him with his height. Pirouette is the other rad one from that time on the same cliff. Pull those off and you're bonafide BAD ASS!!!
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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May 24, 2006 - 05:10pm PT
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Western KY. Local spray puts it at 13a. Only 2 ascents I think, some guy trained on a roof crack machine for like 6 months to bag it.
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jtanzman
climber
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May 24, 2006 - 08:36pm PT
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Nice...drop-knee, eh?
Jay
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jack herer
climber
chico, ca
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May 24, 2006 - 11:04pm PT
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Howbout nice jugs!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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May 24, 2006 - 11:10pm PT
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Kansas City at the Gunks:
GO
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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May 25, 2006 - 07:28am PT
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The biggest roofs on El Capitan are easily visible from the road. The route that goes through them is Bermuda Dunes.
The photo shows the Salathe Headwall to the left, and the stepped BD roofs to the right.
The route does both of the big roofs, in good cracks. After belaying under the lowest roof (nice bivy, the "Pine Island"), the route goes up and left to a hidden ledge. Then, the Fishhead Crack goes up towards the upper roof and nails to the right - nailing straight up - and the pitch finishes out on the face to the right.
The Heart Roof might be bigger, scoped from the ground. But, up there, the Bermuda Dunes line seemed bigger. Absolutely, the Bermuda Dunes crossing was harder than Son of Heart.
Here is the view from across the Valley.
At the top of the picture, very left, is Excalibur.
A bit to the right is the Salathe Headwall.
And further right is the Bermuda Dunes roofs.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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May 25, 2006 - 07:55am PT
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Whose roof?
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MikeL
climber
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May 25, 2006 - 12:14pm PT
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Babble On, my first roof.
And yeah, not such good rope work.
MikeL
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hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
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May 25, 2006 - 01:14pm PT
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is that on the knob job wall? by the tube
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Chairman Meow
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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May 25, 2006 - 04:26pm PT
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Ron sporting some fluorescent-blue leopard-print tights on the Organasm roof. Photo taken by Zach.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 25, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
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Thanks Meow.
Yeah, the tights are soooo retro, but when on legit climbs I think its a good idea to wear bright stuff so that the rangers tend to take for granted that climbers are easy to spot.
That's all I'm saying.
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MikeL
climber
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May 25, 2006 - 05:01pm PT
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Hardman: Yes, down to the right a bit from the tube. You can't miss it.
MikeL
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 25, 2006 - 05:28pm PT
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Too bad we couldn't post that photo until today. Zach and I were watching movies yesterday afternoon with the AC cranked in the 98 degree heat when we saw this thread.
We went into the garage, threw 30 cams on a rack, hopped into the kraut sled with the top down, headed towards the canyon stopping to get his camera.
We were on the shuttle at 16:45 and at the base in the shade with "crack AC", the refreshingly cool air that pours from the crack 40 minutes later.
The shot from the lip was made about 18:50.
Thats when I ran low and had to leapfrog 10m to the belay which wouldn't be so bad if I had 2 pieces the right size instead of just 1.
Zach did a great job of following his biggest roof yet, self belayed. After the lip (with nothing left to clean) he did the space rappel and we were back on the shuttle before dark.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Shlt 3 years just like that.
But for those that think they're good on roofs consider the following;
The weaver ant can traverse the underside of a horizontal sheet of glass loaded with 100X its own weight.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Back in the day shot of a still-cool old classic (Yellow Wall, Gunks):
Even further back...sometime in the early sixties (Roger's Roof, Devil's Lake)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jun 15, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
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thebravecowboy
climber
liberated libertine
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Jun 15, 2015 - 09:26pm PT
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We went into the garage, threw 30 cams on a rack, hopped into the kraut sled with the top down, headed towards the canyon stopping to get his camera.
... and at the base in the shade with "crack AC", the refreshingly cool air that pours from the crack 40 minutes later.
the noob approves
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 16, 2015 - 05:03am PT
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Roof in nearby Sierra de los Difuntos
Roofs originally done for my own personal amusement
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 17, 2015 - 05:19am PT
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`The
FOOPS
`
ROOF
SKY TOP - NY
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Dick_Lugar_II
Trad climber
Center of My Universe...
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Jun 17, 2015 - 05:48am PT
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Wifey on her first roof...may have have been her first climb too or maybe her 2nd climb??? Nice guy I am... lol.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jun 18, 2015 - 07:22am PT
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Heh, well played Mr. Cragman!
BAd
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 29, 2016 - 03:46pm PT
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Bump-worthy thead.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 29, 2016 - 07:11pm PT
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 29, 2016 - 09:11pm PT
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Jaybro, dude, sick!
Bravo!!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 30, 2016 - 10:34am PT
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Missed this the first time around. Flagstaff has what is probably the densest concentration of roof problems in the world.
The BVB roof
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 30, 2016 - 10:36am PT
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The BVB Roof, different angle
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 30, 2016 - 10:37am PT
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Jugs on roofs, Flagstaff style
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 30, 2016 - 10:41am PT
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Priest Draw, roof central, Jocelyn on some 5.11 splitter:
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 30, 2016 - 11:27am PT
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John Wason hanging around on The Seperate Reality of Flagstaff:
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 30, 2016 - 11:34am PT
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The Clam Shell -- little roof, big fun
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 30, 2016 - 11:39am PT
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The Salton Sea
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 30, 2016 - 02:05pm PT
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World Leader Pretend
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 30, 2016 - 04:19pm PT
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Great photos bvb....bravo!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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May 30, 2016 - 06:17pm PT
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BVB, sweet roof boulders in Flagstaff!
Jaybro, bad to the bone! I thought heard allusions to such a trip some time in the last week or so. I gotta show that to the kids.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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May 30, 2016 - 09:37pm PT
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Only 15 feet long but it felt like a mile 43 years ago.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 30, 2016 - 09:49pm PT
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The gateway drug to wide crack roofs...
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c_vultaggio
Trad climber
new york
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May 31, 2016 - 12:22pm PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 31, 2016 - 05:03pm PT
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Sweet snap of Matt Gentile on "Washed Up Ol' Sparkle Jockey" (that's me, btw), the best and hardest new line on the bvb roof:
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