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heiko
Trad climber
Augsburg, Germany
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 10, 2006 - 01:01pm PT
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Hi, I just registered here to move this discussion over from rc.com as suggested, hope you don't mind. It developed out of a post about the "correct" uses of a daisy chain.
dingus wrote:
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And for raps, also larnt this from Brutus... a Yates adjustable daisy in conjunction with some sort of backup friction knot ABOVE the rap device is the s--- for multiraps and passing knots, etc.
Releasing the friction knot once loaded is as simple as the press of a button. When I need a backup this is now my preferred rig.
heiko wrote:
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Hi Dingus,
would you care to elaborate a bit more in detail? It sounds interesting, especially because "the new style" seems to be using the friction knot below the extended belay device. Personally I've always found having the friction know above the belay device a major pain. Or am I getting something wrong here?
Cheers,
Heiko
dingus wrote:
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I typed a long winded response and the site ate it. F*#k it... if you would like an explaination PM me with a real email addy or post a topic thread on supertopo. Cheers
DMT
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the Fet
Trad climber
: morF
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May 10, 2006 - 02:09pm PT
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Sounds like a good method for passing a knot, but you are hanging from one adjustable daisy while you re-rig your rap device. Not a huge deal, but defineatly not a recommended by the manufacturer type use. (which by the way, is what I was getting at in the other thread, sure you can do what you want with a daisy, but why design a daisy for to be fool proof for something it isn't fully suitable for).
For a regular rap backup I'll stick with the auto-block on a leg loop. Easy/light/fast. I often let it lock up to set up the next rap, take photos, untangle the rope, etc. It's worth it to me for piece of mind and convenience.
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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May 10, 2006 - 02:21pm PT
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"Correct" usage of a daisy chain = whatever works and keeps you from discovering the great beyond.
Dingus's method seems to qualify. Cool tip!
btw. I can only imagine the type of moronic responses this technique stirred up at rc.com. I have no interest in seeing that thread.
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the Fet
Trad climber
: morF
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May 10, 2006 - 02:24pm PT
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Yeah, Dingus, I would backup anyway (wouldn't want to be undoing a rap device in mid-air without a backup). So no worries on the daisy.
This method would still work good passing a knot with ascenders. So rather than having to climb up on the lower ascender to release the upper one, just release the adjustable, good for lazy old farts like me.
I wonder about using this technique for cleaning overhanging stuff on jugs. So clip in one jug below the piece with an adjustable, clip in your other jug above the piece, and release tension on the lower one, to free up the rope on the piece.
This has probably been all worked through already, but I've only used my adjustable daisy on one wall so far.
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the Fet
Trad climber
: morF
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May 10, 2006 - 04:27pm PT
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re: "3 As attachment of self to anchor on partnered aid/walls when belaying"
There was a thread on RC a few months back where Largo stated that during testing of the sliding X with limiter knots (for his new anchor book) that any shock load from one leg of the anchor blowing was minimal if you used the rope as a tie in not a static tie in like a daisy (paraphrasing). Of course this only matters if a fall directly on the anchor is possible, and one of the pieces could blow, but *I* decided to always use the rope as my tie in unless there's a bigger reason not to.
Very long thread (I'd post a link, but that site is in slow motion), but another important thing to take out of it is that the single knot cordelette doesn't equalize.
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heiko
Trad climber
Dolomites, Italy
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2006 - 05:41pm PT
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Hey guys, thanks for all the responses. Loads of interesting ideas here.
(Indeed there is more than one daisy chain thread active on rc.com at the moment, and it's getting a bit weird there.)
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