Discussion Topic |
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 27, 2006 - 04:23pm PT
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With the latest daisy scare rearing its ugly head again, I did a couple of tests that you might find interesting. I guess the only real questions I have now are:
1. Should we even be making daisy chains with just a small loop at the end?
2. Should we be only making daisy chains that a clove-able end loop?
3. Should we only make daisy chains with the yet to be named "insert".
4. Please advise....
here are the questions again:
1. Should we even be making daisy chains with just a small loop at the end?
2. Should we be only making daisy chains that a clove-able end loop?
3. Should we only make daisy chains with the yet to be named "insert".
4. Please advise....
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Apr 27, 2006 - 04:38pm PT
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5. Buy adjustable daisies.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Apr 27, 2006 - 04:39pm PT
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Most excellent Daisy Death report and analysis, Russ.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2006 - 04:44pm PT
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Check this thread for more info and the great BD video of "Daisy Death"
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=182550&f=35&b=0
DMT: ladder style daisy chains used to be around. Not sure where they went. Usually boils down to time and money. Lot's O labor in a ladder style daisy. I'll look into it.
Fet: adjustable has the fatal flaw of if it busts, there is no next pocket to catch you. Single strand failure = lights out. If I could clean up my desk I could find the BS data on Adjutables and failures.
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fatman
climber
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Apr 27, 2006 - 04:47pm PT
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hey russ,
can you make me two of those?
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 27, 2006 - 04:56pm PT
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Just clove hitch the end and be done with it already.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2006 - 04:58pm PT
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Hey Dirt... try that with 1" loop at the end. Get your toy biner ready.....
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
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or use two biners to adjust length, or only clip into one loop. right?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
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"5. Buy adjustable daisies."
Adjustable daisies (which I love for aid climbing) aren't remotely as strong as a regular pocketed daisy used correctly as Fish illustrates.
PEace
Karl
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:05pm PT
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I have yet to see the video? How is it possible that biner will come off the daisy?
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:08pm PT
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Umm... we should... ummm... do nothing and see how many of us die.
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susan peplow
climber
Winner of Diet Challenge!!!
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:09pm PT
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Is that my locker your using for these 1600+ pound tests?
Hummmm
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Corey Fields
Trad climber
Texas
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:11pm PT
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"If I could clean up my desk I could find the BS data on Adjutables and failures."
That would be a nice comparison. I've been looking for those numbers. Or any link to failure tests on adjustables (ancra design).
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:28pm PT
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Some webbing and a bit of tape. HOLY F*#KING SH#T!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:30pm PT
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I recall seeing that Metolious Adjustables are only rated to 300lbs. Bodyweight for aid, not meant for anchoring.
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:34pm PT
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how about this rig? Variation of that last rig russ posted. Could also be done by tacking the blue webbing all through one set of tacks. Actually that would be better now that I think about it. It's basically making the last link of the chain a full-strength grab loop, so that rather than tacks you have actual webbing that would have to blow for the grand finale blowout to happen.
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:39pm PT
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Yeah, this would be better
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 27, 2006 - 05:49pm PT
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Landy is right. Like this should work too. Anything that isolates the last loop will defeat the magic trick.
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the Fet
Trad climber
Loomis, CA
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:49pm PT
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We shouldn't be using regular daisies for anchoring either. Unless it's while you are pulling your rope for a rappel.
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Apr 27, 2006 - 05:53pm PT
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yeah, I was just trying to make it so that the last loop is full size. Also, I think the failure mode for the one you just put up (my first thing) leaves the bar tacks on the slack side of the daisy (the one that forms the loops) loaded in pry-open mode, hence my revised grab loop-style design. When that one goes, you have the straight side of the daisy and the grab loop thingy holding you, with good stitching orientation
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