Discussion Topic |
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 18, 2009 - 04:49am PT
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Peregrine 5.10c
Lover's Leap, East Wall
Lake Tahoe, California, USA
Avg time to climb route: 2 hours
Approach time: 15 minutes
Descent time: 10 minutes
Number of pitches: 2
Height of route: 260' (w/ Fandango start)
Overview
When most East Wall routes have four or more climbers a piece, there is often no line on Peregrine. Here’s why: 1) the route is sustained at 5.10c and 2) fewer ascents mean more dirt and loose blocks. Peregrine is just as striking and has the classic munge and loose blocks getting to it's base. It has a more dramatic finish than The Line. Don’t be surprised if after a few more ascents, this route climbs up to be a five-star classic. This route provides incredible views of the East Wall.
Photos
Climber Beta on Peregrine
Standard Rack for approach pitch
10+ draws
70 meter rope (optional for descent)
Approach
Peregine is on the far right side of the East Wall. This climb starts 35 meters up after climbing the 1st pitch of East Gully, Fandango, Paramour, etc... Rap in from the top if you prefer... Most parties climb the 1st pitch of Fandango. From the top of the 1st pitch of Fandango (two bolt anchor) move out right (10m) onto a big ledge with a two bolt chain belay. This anchor is even with the two bolts at the top of the 1st pitch of Fandango is on the extreme far left side of the main ledge).
From the big ledge follow 10+ bolts above and out the far right side of the big roof. There is plenty of natural gear placements in addion to the bolts (FA 2007 no bolts).
Descent
WATCH FOR LOOSE ROCKS AND CLIMBERS BELOW. 2 Rappels (70 meters of rope for each rappel just makes it) or walk off.... There is a two bolt anchor with chains at the top of the route so you can get back down to the main ledge in 35 meters. From the base of on the main ledge it is 35 meters to the base of the East Chimney or Fandango.
WATCH FOR LOOSE ROCKS and TIE KNOTS IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE IF RAPPING!
Which SuperTopo guidebooks include a topo for Peregrine?
Other routes near Peregrine
East Gully, Fandango and Paramour. Fandango was cleaned up two years ago and it no longer is an exercise in botany. CHEERS TO THE CLEANER who clearly spent a good day or two cleaning. A big thumbs up for all your hard work.
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Jun 18, 2009 - 08:28am PT
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Decent attempt at a troll.
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2009 - 08:57am PT
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The anchor at the top of Peregrine is independent of any route at the leap. You must be referring to the anchor on top of Fandango as the thread above indicates.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jun 18, 2009 - 11:15am PT
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Great route. Great set up, too.
But Brian... perhaps it wasn't the best time to post this. Read elsewhere for context. And if So and So (the Leap's latest "RockBigot") chops this, he's on my sh*tlist.
The RockBigot's ideology: It's MY WAY or NO WAY!
EDIT Slobmonster... Why don't you educate yourself before sounding off.
Committee for a Rockbigot Free Zone at the Leap.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jun 18, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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Now that I think about it, it was for the best to make it known. So in the long term it's settled one way or the other.
(But it was worth a couple days chuckles even amongst So and So's destructive efforts... and displays of rockbigotry... who apparently only knew the half of it).
Committee for a Rockbigot Free Zone at the Leap
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 18, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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Please note that I proffered no opinion above, just linked to a possibly relevant discussion.
And having wasted many an hour/day/week/month/years off my life discussing bolted anchors at my previous home crag (No. Conway) I'm not about to do the same here.
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WhyCantGerbalsDrive
climber
Lee Vining, CA
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Jun 18, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
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well slob is the leap your new home crag?
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 18, 2009 - 12:44pm PT
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Does it matter?
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Aaron Johnson
climber
Bear Valley, CA
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Jun 18, 2009 - 12:48pm PT
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Thanks Brian!
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Jun 18, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
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Looks like a cool line.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jun 18, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
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I don't think being opposed to retro bolted anchors on cliff tops qualifies as Rock Bigotry, but to each their own.
New route looks interesting, thanks for posting the info.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Jun 18, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
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Brian, about time you posted that beta. I saw you putting the route up a few years ago. Looks like it takes a really steep line. This actually clears alot of things up. I knew there had to be a line over there somewhere, just couldn't see anything. Someone told me they thought someone cleaned out Fandango thinking it was a F.A., but I could have swore I saw someone much further to the right. It all makes sense now.
Contrary to the hypocrite Footlooses opinionated statements (of which I can only assume was speaking of me) I have no desire, will, intentions, motivations or reason to even think about chopping any bolts on your route. It's your route and how you choose to put it up and protect it is your business. I do however have a high motivation and desire to climb it, which I will soon.
Footloose,
The RockBigot's ideology: It's MY WAY or NO WAY!
Seems to be more your ideology. Everyone disagreed with you, everyone stated their opinions (of which no one agreed with yours) and the overwhelming response was that retrobolting should not be tolerated in this specific case. I'm no mad bolt chopper. In-fact, those are the first bolts I've ever chopped without replacing accept for one damaged TR bolt on a boulder problem in my back yard. So why don't you educate yourself before sounding off.
Now that I think about it, it was for the best to make it known. So in the long term it's settled one way or the other.
Aah, we agree on something! I'm not hiding in the shadows, everyone knows who I am. I've let this issue stew on peoples minds for over two years now. I've gotten opinions from dozens of people around the campfire, as well as many long time locals of the leap and the decision was unanimous, overwhelmingly so. If I hadn't, both those anchors would have been gone long ago. Just because everyone doesn't agree with you and prefer your flavor of sauce doesn't give you the right to declare bigotry and get all bent. Actually, you have the right to get bent and declare whatever you want, but that doesn't make you right.
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WhyCantGerbalsDrive
climber
Lee Vining, CA
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Jun 18, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
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sweet! now we can just rap down peregrin!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 18, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
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Good work, you guys. Bolt removal is one of those thankless tasks that almost nobody wants to do, even if there is vast agreement that it is needed. Good that you thought carefully about it and consulted others. And were aware of the new route nearby.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jun 18, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
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I thought I had one. Snapped this baby just before my partner and I rapped, 20 minutes max but I bet it was more like 15 to the base for both of us. As Brian said, a glorious view!
Goes without saying, really, but I'd just like to repeat the caveat: From the top around P Tree area, and obviously throughout your climb as well, you can see the entire base (from P. Tree to Fandango to the dihedral) for the presence of other parties. Make sure it's clear before you rap. The right thing to do as responsible climbers!
P.S. Nice to finally have a name for it!!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 18, 2009 - 11:56pm PT
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Hi Footloose,
I've been following this thread and the other one and I think that you may not have understood the position a lot of us take. I apologize in advance if I'm out to lunch.
Fandango was put up by the original party in a certain style. Later, persons unknown added bolts with rap gear to the belays. This changed the nature of the climb. No longer did you need to build your own belay anchors and, basically, take responsibility for the climb. The rappel from the top question is way secondary to this. The pleasure and commitment of the route was diminished. The original ascent party was not consulted before the bolts were added as well.
I learned to climb at Sugarloaf and Lovers Leap. I am a 5.9 climber. I've climbed Psychedelic Tree, Eagle Buttress Right, Traveler Buttress and Wallflower and other classic 5.9s of the Leap. Fandango has always been on my hit list, with the full knowledge that it is very trad, a little run out and old school. So I've imagined it for years. The bolts tame it and something fundamental and wild is lost. I may never climb this route but I hope I do, and when I do, I hope it is as near to the original state as it can be.
Walking off or finding another place to put a rap route is a very small price to pay for this essential heart of climbing.
Zander
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 18, 2009 - 11:58pm PT
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Hey Brian,
I got side tracked. Thanks for the Report on your route.
Zander
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jun 19, 2009 - 12:40am PT
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Thanks Zander.
First off, I met you once at the Leap last year. We both had partners. In the morning it was at the east end parking lot and later in the day, at Tombstone. You guys were talking about High Country, if I have that right. The point: I enjoyed talking to you, i liked you a lot and actually have followed your TRs ever since!
I get it! Trad's, too. I'm in agreement. What got me involved was the approach taken. And it wasn't so much Fandango (indeed not Fandango at all!) but East Wall rapping and how all rappers are d-bags, f-wits, how it takes an hour, rapping into others' leads, big FU's if one is caught rapping in the future, etc.
You suggest that there is an "art" to climbing (just as there is an "art" to living at large, my field of work). My point exactly, too! There are better ways and worse ways to approaches, to getting things done. And on and on...
Anyway, i'd bet if we shared a beer at the end of the day, we'd have a lot in shared climbing values. And I'd even defer to your way, your art, in the sport on a regular basis.
I like it all, even sport and gym. I love the Leap, learned to climb and set trad there 15 years ago. Take care. Via a commitment on another thread, this is my last post to these threads. Happy climbing.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jun 19, 2009 - 01:56am PT
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Looks like a great route in a great area and on a GREAT wall. For what it's worth I truly look forward to repeating it. PS.....I'll walk off too...in the name of tradition!
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