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dustonian
climber
Foresta
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 14, 2009 - 10:56am PT
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Anyone got a cheap source on these?
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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May 14, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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Go to the Fish website.
He may or may not have them in stock.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 14, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
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He said "cheap source" locker. Guessing there are much cheaper sources than HD.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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May 14, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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locker said: "Home Depot"
Yeah, what a buy! They even provide a sticky label that sez, "Not safe for hoisting personnel..."
What a bargain.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 14, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
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MOOCH:
FYI, none of the chain or hooks or screw links you see in climbibg are "Rated For Lifting People"....
GRADE 80 is for lifting people -Uncommon and very expensive-
Typical chain rap anchor is grade 30... General perpose...
The chain/hooks used to hold vehicles on a trailer are only grade 70.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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May 14, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
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This:
and this:
are not the same as this:
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 14, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
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Zombi: re: your second link
Those hooks are appearing in the Tahoe area.
THEY ARE NOT GOOD!
The hook attaches to the chain with a pin going through the small ears on the hook and through the chain.... That pin is then secured with an (approx) 1/8" cotter pin.
The cotter pins are weak to breakage, they rust, and in my opinion are not acceptable for climbing anchors.
Do you and / or others agree?
EDIT: MisterE beat me to it
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pimpdaddy
climber
manchester, vermont
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May 14, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
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Is that Clarks canyon
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 14, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
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Those look unacceptable from about every perspective and makes you wonder about some folks' capacity for common sense.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Vulva, Wyoming
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May 14, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
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I'd wait until our new ones come out this Winter:
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 14, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
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These days, you'd probably need one that big since everyone seems to have decided that it's okay to burn through the anchors when lowering off routes. Sooze can back me up on this one...
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Dec 12, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Dec 12, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
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Draco is listed at $22 a pop on the Fixe site.... That is pretty steep. If you can get them for $7.00, go for it.
Besides that, I just today got an assload of Mussy Hooks delivered. First time in like two years. They are $5 a pop. The Quick Links that go with them are $2 a pop. Anyone interested email me (not using the PM feature here coz it sucks) at:
FishProductsInfo over at gmail.com
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 12, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
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Da Fish comes thru again
!!!!!!!
Hooray!!!
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Dec 13, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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Agree. The ones with the cotter pins showing up in the Tahoe area are scary. I would be happy to buy some from Fish and then donate them for people putting up routes in the Emeralds and Bowman.
Erik
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MisterE
climber
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Dec 13, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
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Even worse are some we found while extending too-short "new" anchors in a VERY popular area:
They are basically the same cheap knock-offs as the cotter-pin ones, but these have bolts with just regular nuts on them.
When we turned the rig around (the nut was at the back on the short anchor), I twisted the first nut off with my fingers. No washer, no LOCK-washer, no Nylock, and no Loctite - nothin'. Horrendous. The other one was at least wrench-tight - but just barely. Bomber as a lead anchor (fall to your last bolt), but bad news as a TR anchor.
We added 4 links, tightened the sh1t out of everything, then called the First Ascentionist for permission to replace.
It was given with clear specifications.
We both definitely got kind of spooked on that. Glad we check out things that suck.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 13, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
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I bought a bunch of mussy hooks from Russ when I was actively developing in Northern AZ. Still have a bunch. Now I keep a pair with me and if it feels right offer them up for folks to swap out junk with.
There's just not enough rock in Colorado to do any development so I might as well....
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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Dec 13, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
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I must be pretty unsafe because I just don't see a problem with the hooks with the pin and cotterpin, not that I've ever installed this style. I've looked, but they seem too big, but more than bomber enough to lower my fat ass. And there's two. I'd trust the pin more than a bolt, unless it was grade 5 or stronger, at least the pin was rated. Overall, I worry more about the rope.
Bomber as a lead anchor (fall to your last bolt), but bad news as a TR anchor.
I thought we weren't supposed to be TRing through the anchor anyway.
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MisterE
climber
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Dec 13, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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Nice, Nature.
ACCEPT NO SUBSTITUTES!
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Dec 24, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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