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Social climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 6, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
In 1983 I huffed and puffed my way into the winds with Bart Cannon. 50 Classic climbs had just come out and we went into see what it was all about
We started out at Big Sandy as a helicopter was flying in to remove the body of a man who got hit by lightning up on the Wolfs Head.
We did that route as our warm up. It is a total boss route. clean rock on a steep little sidewalk in the sky. Crux move of a 5.6 step out. Theres a pin at your feet that you have to ballet down to to clip in. Then you walk amongst the gargoyles to the top.
On the descent we grabbed a couple of rocks to use as rudders and did a long long slide down.
Pingora was day two. We got up in the middle of the night and we climbed and climbed and climbed-The hummock pitch still had grass and Todd Skinner told us that on the top third you could go anywhere and it was 5.8 forever. And it was.
We topped out at sundown and then rapping the backside our ropes got stuck and that sun kept falling and we spent a cold one. Spooning and shivering in the long,slow Wyoming night.

right here, right now
Feb 6, 2009 - 08:05pm PT
Good one!
Got pictures?

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Feb 6, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
Dang, we busted our butts into there in about '74 and had to rescue two guys who luckily were only singed and dinged from flying a ways after the singeing (sp?). Kind o' puts you off your supper, so to speak. Then, of course, the weather clamped down and that was that for all our trouble. But it was a nice hike, sort of.

right here, right now
Feb 6, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
Wolf's Head (l) Pingora (r), from what's-its-name pass:
(that was a nice tent; a MOSS, which fit five of us)

Yes, 5.8 forever!
On excellent Tuolumne Meadows quality granite:

Summit photos, the first with War Bonnet in the background:

Descending from Pingora, with Wolf's Head in the background:

Members of our team sorting through their marching orders for the hike out!
(A handy pile of psychedelic mushrooms)


Toostoned, AZ
Feb 6, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
Thanks Tarbuster-I took photos but the mosquitos made off with the film!

Anyone stay in that killer camp with the cook cave and boulder problems?

Tar- you and how many chickies AND mushies in that tent???!!!
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 6, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
At the start of the sidewalk pitch on Wolf's Head. We retreated from there due to misgivings about the weather, and just beat a mega lightning and rain storm to the ground.

right here, right now
Feb 6, 2009 - 09:26pm PT
"Tar- you and how many chickies AND mushies in that tent???!!!


That is Sue Wint, Anne Tomaskovic, & Tracy Shallow pictured.
I will admit Cory Dudley, another guy, was on hand to help me man handle the harem.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 6, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
I love the Wind River Range!

here is Warbonnet massif in 2001

and Pingora later that same day
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 6, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
a pano

Trad climber
Feb 6, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
Posted in September, but relevant:

best burgers in Kemmerer?

Big Sandy river in September

approaching the cirque

Warming up on K-cracks

Nice exposure for Zoso

Sunny D

Kinda late in the day.

near the summit of Pingora


If you're going to fall off the mountain, be sure you fall from the very top...

Right here my friends are thinking, "why didn't Clay drink more and eat more?" Day 2

Pingora for breakfast

Northeast Butress had more ice and snow than looked comfortable. We had to hike all the way up there to figure it out but its pretty cool around that way.

We opted for the Southeast butress? I think that's what it was?

long pitches

What is a tower?

could this qualify for the bouldering thread?[/quote]
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City, SD
Feb 6, 2009 - 10:59pm PT
We're going back to Haystack this summer. And this isn't relevant, but the Shadow Lake side is cool too.

Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Feb 6, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
Serious glory, there, boys & girls.
In the Muir sense of the word.

Like a good campfire. Only better.


Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 6, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
Oh what a wonder!
I loved Pingora and the cirque.
Have to go back and bag Wolfshead, as we had an off day and
didn't make it. . .
What a wonderful place!!!
adam d

Feb 6, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
hard to go wrong just about anywhere in the Winds...

climbing west toward the divide out of Golden Lakes

clean FA's south of Elephant Head

halfway up the Ellingwood Arete, one of the best 5.6's anywhere

more virgin territory? in Cathedral Lakes
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Feb 7, 2009 - 12:25am PT
Powerful shizz, there, No doubt.

Calgon, Take me away!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 7, 2009 - 12:29am PT
Wow. I want to go.

Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
Tarbuster I've got some nice photos but I have to get them on digital- they're still on 35mm slides
It's the early to mid 80's. the four boys hike in to the cirque and the weather clamps down,
Wayne does not have what it takes to be a serious mountaineer- he is unable to sit on his ass for four or five days straight.
A very small break in the weather occurs and so Chris and Wayne are going to try Warbonnet.
going up at about 800 feet they pass a rap sling pinned under a pick-up truck sized rock on a downward slanting ledge
Chris tells me he's thinking who would ever use THAT as an anchor.
500 feet higher the window closes and then it slams shut in a bad way.
Storm going off above and below the men- they have to rap into lightning.
meanwhile, the boys back down in the tent are beginning to divide the gear between them since there wont be any survivors. They prepare for what promises to be a heavy walk out.
Back on the wall Wayne takes a jolt in the nuts from a near miss.
Chris said they came to the pick-up/sling and he clipped and was rapping down without even thinking it was manky
At the culoir Wayne glissades down the steep snow.
Chris said he was so happy just to be alive that he enjoyed every slow kick step down to home
And how great was that?

right here, right now
Feb 7, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
REAL great: that's how great!

Minneapolis, MN
Feb 9, 2009 - 11:13am PT
Wonderful photographs!

(Amazing how you photo-shoped the clouds of mosquitoes out of the pictures!)

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Feb 9, 2009 - 11:28am PT
I wondering about that too! Although when I was there it was too cold and wet even for the skeets.
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