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tryagain
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 8, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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More gear questions. What is the portaledge of choice. I like the looks of Fish? Is Russ relly that hard to get one from? He told me there was a price increase soon. Same question for haul bag. I think I heard Metolius was the best? Wall rope for leading aid routes. Length? Seems wall rats are going longer. 65, 70, 10.5 or 11?
Like to hear what the big wall guys have to say.
Thanks
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Russ makes good solid ledges, and good simple haulbags.
A5 used to, but they're kaput.
I'm knott too hip on the Metolius bags, kinda klunky somehow.
I run an A5 single(ebay rules!) with a 1st generation A5/NF primary bag & a revamped Fish bag that Mike. O bro-dealt me(thanks be to Mike.)
I kinda have a hate relationship with BD, but I'm sure their gear is solid stuff.
Oh, and I like fat(11 mil) ropes for walls. Sterling rules!
Is that any help?
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Metoliusbags are definately the burliest, and almost the most expensive (except for Yates). They also frequently come in dumb colors, like dark blue. Get a White bag, or at least light colored haul bag, or your sh#t will be extra baked. Warm beer sucks, and as are quick staled bagels.
Russ makes good stuff, with few frills. His stuff won't let you down, the quality and burliness is not reflected in his asking price.
Anyone have a good review on the Mad Rock bags? Prices for those are also killer, but I'm very curious how they hold up.
For ledges I have only used Fish, and so far only in good weather so I can't compare.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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I am with SteveW, I like Beal ropes and always have! The ledge I run with is the BD double! It is the old sissor style and has held up well! they are easy to deploy and I have hauled with it open which is slick, but not if there is any wind!! That way yoou can just bust it out at a hanging belay and stop hanging! There is an awesome haul line that we used last time in Yosemite, it is PMI, but not sure the exact name? I am also with Skully on the FAT 11mm rope or at least 10.5mm, 70M, need I say DRY.
Also very handy to start putting everything in double zip-locks. I used to put all kinds of food in plastic jugs, huge waste of space! Also collapsible water bottles! We roll with the Giant Snickers bars and Power-Jel/Gu all day! I am not a big fan of supplements, but was recently converted to Hammer Nutrition for Enduralytes and Propeteun to mix with water! I used to get leg cramps all night long in the portaledge, but I am crued with Enduralytes, Propeteum!!!
Definately keep the ropes organized, that will save you major head aches!!
Hope that helped, by the way I am sure there are cheaper electrolytes out there, but I mentioned what worked for me!! Definitely NOT Gatorade unless it is at least 50% water.. I better stop!!
Olevesky's & Lowe's "Clean Walls" DVD has a good example of how to pack a haul bag & stay organized!!
Wishing I was on the wall,
Thor
P.S. I like the Metolius haulbag!!! But My BD bag is O.K. just had to take it to a canvas/vinyl repair shop a couple times for patches!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Fish stuff is good, but in Winter on El Cap give me an A5 or new BD Expidition Fly, please.
Yates Bigwall rope is the bomb. Get Dry, and keep it dry.
Metolious haulbags are bomber, or old A5 ones. Not a big fan of the BD. Haven't seen the new mad Rock ones, they might be cool.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Woohoo, snake charmer rope bags & atom smashers(or comparable small haul bags ARE the SHIZZ!)
Huh, Jeremy? Just ask me!
On rock or The MUD!
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kev
climber
CA
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Yo Tryagain,
You can get a new A5 (circa 90's) for 250 from silvertip mountain center (I think that's what it's called they do mail order and are in MT I think). Then you can ebay a fly. If you're on the cheap it's a great deal. Not sure how many of them they have or why but it's a hell of a deal.
kev
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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those madrock haulbags are short waisted. probably fine if you're 6' or less. For the price very bomber.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Anyone used the Yates haulbag? They are probably one of the best, but I can't afford one!
Thor
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Remember the old Dads used old duffels, reworked a bit, with great success.....It's just a sack with straps.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Yeah, my old seabag made one trip up a wall "modified" like that, you have a point though! Sure got easier to haul after all my junk fell out!!
Thor
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Haha, good one Thor. It builds character, doesn't it?
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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You certainly learn from the experience after a night or two without a sleeping bag, food, water, etc!! Remember we also used to haul cans of chilli, tuna, sardines etc.??!!
Thor
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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I haul canned food... But, then again, I know how to pack a haulbag. :)
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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I keep items that I don't want crushed into my Fabulous 5 gallon food bucket. Awesome addition to my wall train, that.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Yeah, I still bring the sardines, but you gotta know how to pack cans! The food bucket is the only way to travel these days, makes it so much easier! We had a bear grab ours in Camp 4 at dinner time, I yelled, "get him" to my 140 lb. friend and he chased the bear down untill he dropped the bucket, still has the teeth marks! Not sure what either of us was thinking, except saving the food! It was crazy!
Thor
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jan 10, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
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Stay away from the Black Diamond haul bags. Mine had a hole in it after its first haul. Not first climb but first friggin pitch! Metolius and Fish are bomber. I have a Fish portaledge and it is lighter then the BD and simple to get togather. The Fish Snake Charmer rope bag is the way for handling double ropes! Fish is tough to get gear from in summer as they always seem to be on some wall somewhere, go figure. BUT you can buy his portaledge from the rock shop in the Valley at Curry Camp.
Also, I hear the new adjustable spectra daisys are the way. I can't remember who makes them but they were constantly sold out in the Valley shop this year so I am still with my Yates beefy buckle monsters.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jan 10, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
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Year round El Cap is not for me so if anyone wants to buy my A5 expedition ledge fly (you know, the one that encloses the whole ledge) it's old but in great shape except for a scrape on one of the corners.
What should I ask?
Peace
Karl
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Jan 10, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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karl, sent ya a message, very interested in that fly.
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